A friend of mine and I were discussing, last weekend, an experience we
both enjoyed a few years ago. The event was put on by a 5-foot-0" German
fellow who demonstrated how to cut dovetails. He built a foot-locker,
right in front of out eyes, without using a marking gage, guide,
template...just a pencil and a backsaw. The pins and tails were
large...about 3", but it 'clicked' together just fine.
He basically blew our little minds.
I remember thinking how confident he must have been of his abilities to
pull that off in front of 20+ people. He had this cocky little grin.. it
looked kinda cool on him, because it wasn't arrogant.
That, in turn, made me think about which tool, if any, I am pretty
confident in using with predictable results.
My conclusions?
Belt sander and biscuit joiner. I can make those do things.
I'm working on the jigsaw...right now I'd grade myself a solid 80%....
75%?
See? Confidence.
How about you guys?
Robatoy wrote:
>
> ...
I've seen a few very large chests or trunks down at the antique
shops near Baltimore's Inner Harbor that had similar large
dovetails. Some had a single tail per corner, and were cross-
nailed to secure them. Simple, strong, functional.
>
> I remember thinking how confident he must have been of his abilities to
> pull that off in front of 20+ people. He had this cocky little grin.. it
> looked kinda cool on him, because it wasn't arrogant.
> ...
> How about you guys?
Wrecking bar.
--
FF
Robatoy wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] wrote:
>
> > Robatoy wrote:
> > >
> > > ...
> >
> > I've seen a few very large chests or trunks down at the antique
> > shops near Baltimore's Inner Harbor that had similar large
> > dovetails. Some had a single tail per corner, and were cross-
> > nailed to secure them. Simple, strong, functional.
> >
> > >
> > > I remember thinking how confident he must have been of his abilities to
> > > pull that off in front of 20+ people. He had this cocky little grin.. it
> > > looked kinda cool on him, because it wasn't arrogant.
> > > ...
> > > How about you guys?
> >
> > Wrecking bar.
>
> Funny you should say that. I'm due to remove a kitchen which was built
> 'in situ'. The kicks are 4x4 lumber nailed to the joists with very long,
> big nails. Judging by the size of the smileys left behind by the
> sledge..they used a 10 pounder. All-in-all a huge nightmare. A friend of
> mine suggested I'd buy one of them Swedish renovator bars.. not the
> Gransfors..but the other bar ..starts with a T...
> It's supposed to be close to 100.00 Can$...
>
> If I cut those nails, I'd never be able to get a hold of them again..and
> the have to come out...somehow.
The local home depots carry digging irons in with the gardening
tools. Basicly, they are like an all-steel carpenter's slick with a
very long handle, up to 6 feet long. You might be able to grind the
edge down so it could be driven between two boards and then pry
away. ISTR they were priced well below $100.00.
You are supposed to thrust these into the ground and then pry to
break up hard dirt, sort of like a linear pick so they may take
the prying. OTOH, they are usually used in post-holes so they
aren't used being pried at large angles.
Best bet, of course, is if you can get to the point and drive it
back out.
--
FF
Leon wrote:
> "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "Robatoy" wrote in message
> >
> >
> > ShopVac ... just upgraded from a broom and getting wicked with it.
>
>
> I have both, Leon said with a smug look of accomplishment.
>
> But my shop vac is a Craftsman that would puts out a sound that a jet
> fighter ready for take off would be jealous of.
I've got one labeled QSP for "Quiet Super Power" with a 6hp sticker on
it. I can't even imagine how loud the un-quiet ones must be. And I'm
absolutely amazed that companies can get away putting a 6hp sticker on
something that draws less than 10amps.
> I did finally buy a large aluminum dust pan and much prefer that to the vac.
> I really hate dumping the vac and cleaning out the pleated filter. It stays
> hooded up to the router table most of the time.
> I am beginning to believe that these dust collection devices simply collect
> all that fine dust and waste into a single compact area that eventually gets
> all over you when you empty it.
I've got the gore-tex filters, but I don't think I'm getting any net
benefit from them when I wallow in a dust cloud for 10 minutes trying
to clean them. And how is it that bags cost like 3 or 4 bucks *each*?
Can't some company in Chaiwan churn 'em out for us at a reasonable
cost? Hmmm....maybe that's how I'll make my millions....
JP
Leon wrote:
> I would like to take a closer look at Festool or Fein.
Yeah - me too. I've got a Festool Rotex sander and it really is an
excellent, excellent tool. Next big check I get I'm going to purchase
another Festool (tool) and a vacuum to boot. The combos save you a
*little* money anyways.
> I have the gore-tex filter also and my findings also when cleaning. My
> filter is probably 8 years old and working fine.
> I use no bags.
> Each time I clean mine I try to think of a way to put the blowing end in the
> filter and toss both in the large trash can, close the lid, and turn on the
> blower.
I usually take mine out to the big & beautiful American Basswood in the
front yard and try to stay upwind while I clean it out.
JP
Robatoy wrote:
> A friend of mine and I were discussing, last weekend, an experience we
> both enjoyed a few years ago. The event was put on by a 5-foot-0" German
> fellow who demonstrated how to cut dovetails. He built a foot-locker,
> right in front of out eyes, without using a marking gage, guide,
> template...just a pencil and a backsaw. The pins and tails were
> large...about 3", but it 'clicked' together just fine.
> He basically blew our little minds.
>
> I remember thinking how confident he must have been of his abilities to
> pull that off in front of 20+ people. He had this cocky little grin.. it
> looked kinda cool on him, because it wasn't arrogant.
There's that anecdote about Toshio Odate - there was the usual milling
about before the seminar started. He walked in quietly without saying
a word and started laying out and cutting a complex joint. Finished
it, snapped it together and the crowd, which had grown quiet as he
started working, stood in awe. No explanations or descriptions
necessary - do what THIS guy does! Or at least try to.
That's an entirely different ballgame than the taped stuff you see on
the tube, where they film it until they get it right, or leave out the
"oops!" When you see Frank Klausz's videos, you _know_ he gets it
right on the first shot, then the film crew sheepishly asks him to do
it again as he went too fast to capture it on tape, so he does. No
performance anxiety there.
> That, in turn, made me think about which tool, if any, I am pretty
> confident in using with predictable results.
>
> My conclusions?
>
> Belt sander and biscuit joiner. I can make those do things.
>
> I'm working on the jigsaw...right now I'd grade myself a solid 80%....
> 75%?
> See? Confidence.
>
> How about you guys?
I always have 100% confidence at the outset, which decreases the more I
think about it, then increases as the project turns out well.
Sometimes the task at hand doesn't cooperate, but that's the task's
fault and I don't let it affect my confidence! I try not to let my
thinking get in the way of my mind. ;)
R
Robatoy wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Next big check I get I'm going to purchase
> > another Festool (tool) and a vacuum to boot.
>
> I strongly suggest you look at the Fein TurboII instead of the Festool
> CT22.
Thanks for the reply. I've always heard excellent things about the
Fein, but I was so impressed with the Festool sander I figured I'd
stick with the same brand vacuum. I'll definitely think further before
purchasing.
JP
***********************************************************************
Of course I also need an airless sprayer, a sliding TS, a 16" jointer,
and exactly 376 other vital tools before I can fully implement The
Master Plan.
Robatoy wrote:
[snip]
> He basically blew our little minds.
>
> I remember thinking how confident he must have been of his abilities to
> pull that off in front of 20+ people. He had this cocky little grin.. it
> looked kinda cool on him, because it wasn't arrogant.
>
> That, in turn, made me think about which tool, if any, I am pretty
> confident in using with predictable results.
[more snippage]
This is some basic ww porn. I'm still trying to picture a cocky grin
and having someone blow my mind. Seriously though, I've done some fine
inlay work with a cold chisel, hand sledge, and a Sawzall. Talk about
Neander.
jo4hn the spazoid.
Robatoy wrote:
> Belt sander and biscuit joiner. I can make those do things.
>
> I'm working on the jigsaw...right now I'd grade myself a solid 80%....
> 75%?
> See? Confidence.
>
> How about you guys?
Waterstones, 85% (plane edge), 80% (chisel). After ~20 edge tools, and
several of them multiple times due to use (and others multiple times
because they were new and the edge was a bit crumbly before getting down
to the good stuff) I can keep the blade at a fairly steady angle while
freehanding on the stone. Sharpening chisels gets a lower score because
I haven't figure out a way to get the microbevel consistent wrt to the
main bevel, every time.
I figure the last 10% or so might take me a few years... unless I stop
responding to goofy threads. There oughta be a way to do it while
getting uniform wear on the stone.
er
--
email not valid
On 5 Mar 2006 10:16:55 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>The local home depots carry digging irons in with the gardening
>tools. Basicly, they are like an all-steel carpenter's slick with a
>very long handle, up to 6 feet long. You might be able to grind the
>edge down so it could be driven between two boards and then pry
>away. ISTR they were priced well below $100.00.
>
>You are supposed to thrust these into the ground and then pry to
>break up hard dirt, sort of like a linear pick so they may take
>the prying. OTOH, they are usually used in post-holes so they
>aren't used being pried at large angles.
>
>Best bet, of course, is if you can get to the point and drive it
>back out.
Fred.. I've used digging irons many times when building fences... you can wear 2
guys out trying to pry roots out before you'll bend a bar.. *g*
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
On Sat, 04 Mar 2006 21:22:06 -0500, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>That, in turn, made me think about which tool, if any, I am pretty
>confident in using with predictable results.
>
>My conclusions?
>
>Belt sander and biscuit joiner. I can make those do things.
>
>I'm working on the jigsaw...right now I'd grade myself a solid 80%....
>75%?
>See? Confidence.
>
>How about you guys?
I'm getting pretty damn good with the bench brush... (now that I put magnets on
the damn thing to prevent all those screws being brushed up)
I can still ruin stuff easily on the belt sander but I feel pretty good about my
use of the 1/4 sheet palm sander...
I mention it because sometimes when I pick it up to use it, it feels like an old
friend... or maybe an old, comfortable shoe....
I pretty good on the drill press too, does that count??
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
"Robatoy" wrote in message
> That, in turn, made me think about which tool, if any, I am pretty
> confident in using with predictable results.
>
> My conclusions?
>
> Belt sander and biscuit joiner. I can make those do things.
>
> I'm working on the jigsaw...right now I'd grade myself a solid 80%....
> 75%?
> See? Confidence.
>
> How about you guys?
ShopVac ... just upgraded from a broom and getting wicked with it.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Belt sander and biscuit joiner. I can make those do things.
>
>
> Kreg Pocket Hole jig and the biscuit jointer.
Uh Hum.... Biscuit JOINER.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Of we make an 'L' shape from 2 boards, which method will be stronger:
> a) we run the screws from the piece along the grain nto the board with
> the cross grain.. or:
> b) we screw from the cross-grain side into the long grain.
>
> I dunno if my kwestion is clear.
>
> lemme try this;
>
> The one board is vertical, standing up in front of you as you look at it.
> The piece to be joined, is to the right, running horizontally.
> The seam will be vertical.
> Do the screws run from right to left. or left to right?
Assuming an orientation like if you were assembling a face frame with
pocket holes drilled into the wider side of the board.
If like a face frame, screw the horizontal piece into the vertical piece.
This way the screw threads go into the cross/side grain of the vertical
piece. While the head of the screw can split the grain on the horizontal
piece if tightened too much the use of larger washer head pocket hole screws
helps spread out the load.
If you screw the vertical piece into the horizontal piece the screw threads
would be going in to the horizontal piece end grain and that would be a
weaker connection.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Robatoy" wrote in message
>
>
> ShopVac ... just upgraded from a broom and getting wicked with it.
I have both, Leon said with a smug look of accomplishment.
But my shop vac is a Craftsman that would puts out a sound that a jet
fighter ready for take off would be jealous of.
I did finally buy a large aluminum dust pan and much prefer that to the vac.
I really hate dumping the vac and cleaning out the pleated filter. It stays
hooded up to the router table most of the time.
I am beginning to believe that these dust collection devices simply collect
all that fine dust and waste into a single compact area that eventually gets
all over you when you empty it.
"Robatoy" wrote
> Funny you should say that. I'm due to remove a kitchen which was built
> 'in situ'. The kicks are 4x4 lumber nailed to the joists with very long,
> big nails. Judging by the size of the smileys left behind by the
> sledge..they used a 10 pounder. All-in-all a huge nightmare. A friend of
> mine suggested I'd buy one of them Swedish renovator bars.. not the
> Gransfors..but the other bar ..starts with a T...
> It's supposed to be close to 100.00 Can$...
>
> If I cut those nails, I'd never be able to get a hold of them again..and
> the have to come out...somehow.
Rob, cut the 4x4 with the sawzall about 3 cm on either side of the spike
location. With your trusty Stanley chisel, split the remaining 4x4 on either
side of said spike, removing the remaining piece of 4x4. Back the auto
wrecker up and attach the chain to the spike, lift ... and repeat. Quicker
and easier than trying to rescue a piece of 4x4 with spikes and donkey
tracks all over it.
Regards,
Rick
Oh yes, my fee? Tip a nice lager for me.
.... and WHEN are you getting YOUR ShopBot???????
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I've got one labeled QSP for "Quiet Super Power" with a 6hp sticker on
> it. I can't even imagine how loud the un-quiet ones must be. And I'm
> absolutely amazed that companies can get away putting a 6hp sticker on
> something that draws less than 10amps.
I would like to take a closer look at Festool or Fein.
>
> I've got the gore-tex filters, but I don't think I'm getting any net
> benefit from them when I wallow in a dust cloud for 10 minutes trying
> to clean them. And how is it that bags cost like 3 or 4 bucks *each*?
> Can't some company in Chaiwan churn 'em out for us at a reasonable
> cost? Hmmm....maybe that's how I'll make my millions....
I have the gore-tex filter also and my findings also when cleaning. My
filter is probably 8 years old and working fine.
I use no bags.
Each time I clean mine I try to think of a way to put the blowing end in the
filter and toss both in the large trash can, close the lid, and turn on the
blower.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] wrote:
> I've seen a few very large chests or trunks down at the antique
> shops near Baltimore's Inner Harbor that had similar large
> dovetails. Some had a single tail per corner, and were cross-
> nailed to secure them. Simple, strong, functional.
And they look great too.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] wrote:
> Robatoy wrote:
> >
> > ...
>
> I've seen a few very large chests or trunks down at the antique
> shops near Baltimore's Inner Harbor that had similar large
> dovetails. Some had a single tail per corner, and were cross-
> nailed to secure them. Simple, strong, functional.
>
> >
> > I remember thinking how confident he must have been of his abilities to
> > pull that off in front of 20+ people. He had this cocky little grin.. it
> > looked kinda cool on him, because it wasn't arrogant.
> > ...
> > How about you guys?
>
> Wrecking bar.
Funny you should say that. I'm due to remove a kitchen which was built
'in situ'. The kicks are 4x4 lumber nailed to the joists with very long,
big nails. Judging by the size of the smileys left behind by the
sledge..they used a 10 pounder. All-in-all a huge nightmare. A friend of
mine suggested I'd buy one of them Swedish renovator bars.. not the
Gransfors..but the other bar ..starts with a T...
It's supposed to be close to 100.00 Can$...
If I cut those nails, I'd never be able to get a hold of them again..and
the have to come out...somehow.
In article <[email protected]>,
jo4hn <[email protected]> wrote:
> Robatoy wrote:
> [snip]
> > He basically blew our little minds.
> >
> > I remember thinking how confident he must have been of his abilities to
> > pull that off in front of 20+ people. He had this cocky little grin.. it
> > looked kinda cool on him, because it wasn't arrogant.
> >
> > That, in turn, made me think about which tool, if any, I am pretty
> > confident in using with predictable results.
> [more snippage]
> This is some basic ww porn. I'm still trying to picture a cocky grin
> and having someone blow my mind. Seriously though, I've done some fine
> inlay work with a cold chisel, hand sledge, and a Sawzall. Talk about
> Neander.
> jo4hn the spazoid.
Cool! Which blade did you use in the Sawzall?
Was it sharp?
Did the cold chisel have a back-bevel? Huh? Huh?
In article <[email protected]>,
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Next big check I get I'm going to purchase
> another Festool (tool) and a vacuum to boot.
I strongly suggest you look at the Fein TurboII instead of the Festool
CT22.
I own both and the Fein was bought after the Festool.
The CT 22 is an excellent vacuum. The Fein is that much better.
The Fein also holds a lot more solid surface dirt in the bags, before
the suction diminishes, than the Festool.
Festool isn't perfect either. The Linear Sander LS 130 isn't very good.
My friend's shop has tried and tried to make it work. No cigar.
He offered to sell it to me for half price.... he was clearly
disappointed.
I have the Rotex 150E and just love it. The other Festool piece I'd like
to own would be that honkin' router of theirs. 2000 watts of German
engineered power.
In article <[email protected]>,
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> While the head of the screw can split the grain on the horizontal
> piece if tightened too much the use of larger washer head pocket hole screws
> helps spread out the load.
> If you screw the vertical piece into the horizontal piece the screw threads
> would be going in to the horizontal piece end grain and that would be a
> weaker connection.
I think you're right. Besides, going into the end grain doesn't guarantee the
wood isn't going to split either.
Of course, once my Festool Domino arrives... (as if..lol)
http://www.idealtools.com.au/webcontent55.htm
I'm not even going to get horny over this thing till I find out what kind of
money they want for their tenons.
Those bastards keep taking my money!
In article <[email protected]>,
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >A friend of mine and I were discussing, last weekend, an experience we
> > both enjoyed a few years ago. The event was put on by a 5-foot-0" German
> > fellow who demonstrated how to cut dovetails. He built a foot-locker,
> > right in front of out eyes, without using a marking gage, guide,
> > template...just a pencil and a backsaw. The pins and tails were
> > large...about 3", but it 'clicked' together just fine.
> > He basically blew our little minds.
> >
> > I remember thinking how confident he must have been of his abilities to
> > pull that off in front of 20+ people. He had this cocky little grin.. it
> > looked kinda cool on him, because it wasn't arrogant.
> >
> > That, in turn, made me think about which tool, if any, I am pretty
> > confident in using with predictable results.
> >
> > My conclusions?
> >
> > Belt sander and biscuit joiner. I can make those do things.
>
>
> Kreg Pocket Hole jig and the biscuit jointer.
Of we make an 'L' shape from 2 boards, which method will be stronger:
a) we run the screws from the piece along the grain nto the board with
the cross grain.. or:
b) we screw from the cross-grain side into the long grain.
I dunno if my kwestion is clear.
lemme try this;
The one board is vertical, standing up in front of you as you look at it.
The piece to be joined, is to the right, running horizontally.
The seam will be vertical.
Do the screws run from right to left. or left to right?
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I think you're right. Besides, going into the end grain doesn't guarantee
> the
> wood isn't going to split either.
. Into the edge and or face 1/8" from the end or edge of a board I have
driven fine thread #7 Kreg pocket hole screws into Oak with no splits.
> Of course, once my Festool Domino arrives... (as if..lol)
> http://www.idealtools.com.au/webcontent55.htm
I saw that last month. Pretty cool/
> I'm not even going to get horny over this thing till I find out what kind
> of
> money they want for their tenons.
> Those bastards keep taking my money!
Darn um.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>A friend of mine and I were discussing, last weekend, an experience we
> both enjoyed a few years ago. The event was put on by a 5-foot-0" German
> fellow who demonstrated how to cut dovetails. He built a foot-locker,
> right in front of out eyes, without using a marking gage, guide,
> template...just a pencil and a backsaw. The pins and tails were
> large...about 3", but it 'clicked' together just fine.
> He basically blew our little minds.
>
> I remember thinking how confident he must have been of his abilities to
> pull that off in front of 20+ people. He had this cocky little grin.. it
> looked kinda cool on him, because it wasn't arrogant.
>
> That, in turn, made me think about which tool, if any, I am pretty
> confident in using with predictable results.
>
> My conclusions?
>
> Belt sander and biscuit joiner. I can make those do things.
Kreg Pocket Hole jig and the biscuit jointer.
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I usually take mine out to the big & beautiful American Basswood in the
> front yard and try to stay upwind while I clean it out.
>
> JP
>
I finally learned to hold the filter so that the pleats are horizontal and I
rake my fingers across the BOTTOM pleats rotate a little and repeat. this
seems to make the least mess.