Rockler Dado Deal

-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 12/27/15 7:58 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 12/27/2015 2:37 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 12/27/15 2:24 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>> On Sunday, December 27, 2015 at 11:32:31 AM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>> Avenger 8'' x 42T Stack Dado Set 50 bucks with free shipping.
>>>>> http://www.rockler.com/avenger-8-x-42t-stack-dado-set-while-supplies-last
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>> Buyer beware, reviews are mixed. From what I can tell you either get a
>>>>> good set or a bad set. Flip a coin and try them. :-)
>>>>>
>>>>> Might be good way to get into dado set for cheap if you don't
>>>>> absolutely need the highest quality results possible.
>>>>
>>>> I think that is a great way to look at a product like that. Years
>>>> ago Woodcraft had the same set, just a little more than that price.
>>>> I put a set on my old radial saw and used it to dado shelves in
>>>> utility cabinets and it worked great. At that time there wasn't
>>>> another dado set I could find that was less than $200, and Woodcraft
>>>> told me the same thing... don't like 'em, bring 'em back. After
>>>> building a wall of cabinets using that off brand set, I decided it
>>>> was well worth the money I had in it.
>>>>
>>>> The bottom of the cut wasn't as perfect as the $350 sets to be sure.
>>>> And it took a bit of fiddling sometimes to get a strange ridge that
>>>> would show up in the bottom of the cut. Once set it was fine.
>>>> After all, if the dado bottoms weren't perfect, who would know?
>>>> There certainly wasn't any difference in the performance of the
>>>> final product. The face frames covered the dado/shelf/plywood edge
>>>> detail on the front, and the backing on the back of the cabinets
>>>> covered the back cuts. And if the bottom of the cuts were not dead
>>>> smooth, they just held a bit more glue.
>>>>
>>>> Besides, for set up time, cost of the cutting apparatus, and quality
>>>> of cut, for the little bit of cabs I do these days I use a router
>>>> and jig with the proper bit. No chipping, perfectly flat bottoms and
>>>> the setup takes seconds.
>>>>
>>>> Robert
>>>>
>>>
>>> That's kind of the way I look at it for most dado/rabbet cutting. If
>>> they won't be seen, who cares? If they will be seen, clean up with the
>>> router or use the router first.
>>
>> Keep this in mind. I used to use a router and straight bit, and I used
>> a cheap wobble dado blade. I tried to not use them because the results
>> were sub par. In particular cutting dado's/cutting cross grain on
>> plywood. The edge of the cut is what matters to me most as these almost
>> always show with my work and seldom do you see the bottoms of my dado's.
>>
>> I have had the expensive set for 10+ years, Forrest 8" Dado King. You
>> know I build a lot of furniture and most all of it is held together by
>> rabbet's/lap joints, groves, and dados. There are no mechanical
>> fasteners, nails or screws, until I add hinges, leveling feet, or I
>> attach the backs. This includes the front and back face frames.
>> That set has never been out to be resharpened.
>>
>> I guess where I am going with this is that with the better results the
>> more I use the set with out fear of screwing up a good piece of wood in
>> particular when cutting a dado across the width of a $100 sheet of plywood.
>>
>> I would agree that the set you are pointing to is inexpensive and may
>> suite you well but if you have a need for a dado set that cuts well vs.
>> having a set on hand for when you might need it you might want to keep
>> in mind that the cheaper may not last long even if it does cut good.
>>
>> Just something to think about. And there are plenty of good sets out
>> there besides Forrest.
>>
>>
>>>
>>> The TS is sooooo great for cutting them because of the horse power =
>>> speed, and the waste/sawdust clean up is much more efficient for the
>>> most part.
>>>
>>>
>> Uh-huh. ;~) I swear when I am building a project there are some days
>> when I switch out the dado set with the WWII 2~3 times a day.
>>
>> Let us know how that set does if you try it out.
>>
>
> Oh, I'm *not* getting it. I was just giving a head's up for those who
> might be looking to get into the stacked dado world for a very
> discounted price of admission.
>
> I have a Freud set that lies somewhere between this set and the Dado
> King and it isn't as perfect as I'd like. It still leaves "bat ears"
> and one chipper isn't perfectly the same dimension as the others.
>
> I have a possible custom cabinet build coming up. If I get the job, I
> will likely be purchasing a high quality dado set. I haven't decided
> between the Dado King, the Freud Dial-A-Width Dado, or the Infinity
> Dadonator.
>
>

II,RC Swingman has the Freud dial a width and likes it.

Martin Eastburn <[email protected]> wrote:
> Did you buy the 'imperial' model or the 'metric' model of Freud 10" data
> set. I bout metric since it was made for the metric ply I was using.
> You know that slop you get when cutting a 3/4" slot for a ""3/4"" that
> is thinner being metric. Or measure with a metric calipers
> and set the blades as needed.
>
> Martin
>
> On 12/27/2015 3:34 PM, Jack wrote:
>> On 12/27/2015 12:32 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> Avenger 8'' x 42T Stack Dado Set
>>> 50 bucks with free shipping.
>>> http://www.rockler.com/avenger-8-x-42t-stack-dado-set-while-supplies-last
>>>
>>> Buyer beware, reviews are mixed. From what I can tell you either get a
>>> good set or a bad set. Flip a coin and try them. :-)
>>>
>>> Might be good way to get into dado set for cheap if you don't absolutely
>>> need the highest quality results possible.
>>
>> A few (10) years ago my BIL gave me a brand new 10", 60 tooth carbide
>> Avenger Premium Pro blade and it is the one and only saw blade I ever
>> owned that was no good. It could be the only Avenger blade that was no
>> good, or it could be one of many, at any rate, it's hanging on the wall
>> with about 10 minutes on it, probably to be made into a clock or something.
>>
>> Just thought I'd mention it.
>>
>> Also, I bought a Freud 10" dado set a while back, replacing a 7" set I'd
>> used for years. I liked the 7" set better because the 10" is
>> problematic to install and remove and aligning the blades correctly is a
>> pia. I was looking at a 6" Olson dado set that the salesman (a
>> woodworker) said was nice, but it looked way too small. Well, the 10"
>> is way too big, and, as he mentioned, and I should have known, the big
>> 10" blade is never needed for dado's, at least by me.
>>
>

Are you yanking Jack's chain? :-)

On 12/30/2015 9:45 AM, Jack wrote:
> On 12/27/2015 9:34 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>> Did you buy the 'imperial' model or the 'metric' model of Freud 10" data
>> set. I bout metric since it was made for the metric ply I was using.
>> You know that slop you get when cutting a 3/4" slot for a ""3/4"" that
>> is thinner being metric. Or measure with a metric calipers
>> and set the blades as needed.
>
> You need shims to get to any nominal size. So for a 1/4" dado, you need
> a couple shims. I guess the set is imperial, the knives are 1/8 and
> 1/16th I believe, and always cut under the nominal size w/o shims. A
> 3/4" dado needs shims to get to actual 3/4".
>
> My original dado set cut exactly to 1/4" with 2 blades, and had 1/16th
> and 1/8th blades, no shims at all, you had to make your own out of
> paper. Wood 50 years ago was both imperial and actually full size. 1/4"
> was, and 3/4" was...

FWIW and with out much chance of exception the thickness of a sheet of
3/4" plywood from one stack will not be the same thickness from another
stack a few weeks later. Just one more reason that I buy all of my,
same thickness plywood, at the same time when starting a project.

I think shims would not be necessary if plywood could be made
consistently the same thickness.

I even see inconsistencies in 12mm, AKA, 1/2" Baltic birch plywood
thicknesses. I have to be careful when building with Baltic birch scraps.

On Sun, 27 Dec 2015 21:05:24 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On 12/27/15 7:58 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 12/27/2015 2:37 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 12/27/15 2:24 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>> On Sunday, December 27, 2015 at 11:32:31 AM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>> Avenger 8'' x 42T Stack Dado Set 50 bucks with free shipping.
>>>>> http://www.rockler.com/avenger-8-x-42t-stack-dado-set-while-supplies-last
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>> Buyer beware, reviews are mixed. From what I can tell you either get a
>>>>> good set or a bad set. Flip a coin and try them. :-)
>>>>>
>>>>> Might be good way to get into dado set for cheap if you don't
>>>>> absolutely need the highest quality results possible.
>>>>
>>>> I think that is a great way to look at a product like that. Years
>>>> ago Woodcraft had the same set, just a little more than that price.
>>>> I put a set on my old radial saw and used it to dado shelves in
>>>> utility cabinets and it worked great. At that time there wasn't
>>>> another dado set I could find that was less than $200, and Woodcraft
>>>> told me the same thing... don't like 'em, bring 'em back. After
>>>> building a wall of cabinets using that off brand set, I decided it
>>>> was well worth the money I had in it.
>>>>
>>>> The bottom of the cut wasn't as perfect as the $350 sets to be sure.
>>>> And it took a bit of fiddling sometimes to get a strange ridge that
>>>> would show up in the bottom of the cut. Once set it was fine.
>>>> After all, if the dado bottoms weren't perfect, who would know?
>>>> There certainly wasn't any difference in the performance of the
>>>> final product. The face frames covered the dado/shelf/plywood edge
>>>> detail on the front, and the backing on the back of the cabinets
>>>> covered the back cuts. And if the bottom of the cuts were not dead
>>>> smooth, they just held a bit more glue.
>>>>
>>>> Besides, for set up time, cost of the cutting apparatus, and quality
>>>> of cut, for the little bit of cabs I do these days I use a router
>>>> and jig with the proper bit. No chipping, perfectly flat bottoms and
>>>> the setup takes seconds.
>>>>
>>>> Robert
>>>>
>>>
>>> That's kind of the way I look at it for most dado/rabbet cutting. If
>>> they won't be seen, who cares? If they will be seen, clean up with the
>>> router or use the router first.
>>
>> Keep this in mind. I used to use a router and straight bit, and I used
>> a cheap wobble dado blade. I tried to not use them because the results
>> were sub par. In particular cutting dado's/cutting cross grain on
>> plywood. The edge of the cut is what matters to me most as these almost
>> always show with my work and seldom do you see the bottoms of my dado's.
>>
>> I have had the expensive set for 10+ years, Forrest 8" Dado King. You
>> know I build a lot of furniture and most all of it is held together by
>> rabbet's/lap joints, groves, and dados. There are no mechanical
>> fasteners, nails or screws, until I add hinges, leveling feet, or I
>> attach the backs. This includes the front and back face frames.
>> That set has never been out to be resharpened.
>>
>> I guess where I am going with this is that with the better results the
>> more I use the set with out fear of screwing up a good piece of wood in
>> particular when cutting a dado across the width of a $100 sheet of plywood.
>>
>> I would agree that the set you are pointing to is inexpensive and may
>> suite you well but if you have a need for a dado set that cuts well vs.
>> having a set on hand for when you might need it you might want to keep
>> in mind that the cheaper may not last long even if it does cut good.
>>
>> Just something to think about. And there are plenty of good sets out
>> there besides Forrest.
>>
>>
>>>
>>> The TS is sooooo great for cutting them because of the horse power =
>>> speed, and the waste/sawdust clean up is much more efficient for the
>>> most part.
>>>
>>>
>> Uh-huh. ;~) I swear when I am building a project there are some days
>> when I switch out the dado set with the WWII 2~3 times a day.
>>
>> Let us know how that set does if you try it out.
>>
>
>Oh, I'm *not* getting it. I was just giving a head's up for those who
>might be looking to get into the stacked dado world for a very
>discounted price of admission.
>
>I have a Freud set that lies somewhere between this set and the Dado
>King and it isn't as perfect as I'd like. It still leaves "bat ears"
>and one chipper isn't perfectly the same dimension as the others.
>
>I have a possible custom cabinet build coming up. If I get the job, I
>will likely be purchasing a high quality dado set. I haven't decided
>between the Dado King, the Freud Dial-A-Width Dado, or the Infinity
>Dadonator.

Ridge Carbide? Wasn't there a discussion about Forrest's quality
lacking, here recently?

On 12/27/2015 2:37 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 12/27/15 2:24 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Sunday, December 27, 2015 at 11:32:31 AM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> Avenger 8'' x 42T Stack Dado Set 50 bucks with free shipping.
>>> http://www.rockler.com/avenger-8-x-42t-stack-dado-set-while-supplies-last
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
> Buyer beware, reviews are mixed. From what I can tell you either get a
>>> good set or a bad set. Flip a coin and try them. :-)
>>>
>>> Might be good way to get into dado set for cheap if you don't
>>> absolutely need the highest quality results possible.
>>
>> I think that is a great way to look at a product like that. Years
>> ago Woodcraft had the same set, just a little more than that price.
>> I put a set on my old radial saw and used it to dado shelves in
>> utility cabinets and it worked great. At that time there wasn't
>> another dado set I could find that was less than $200, and Woodcraft
>> told me the same thing... don't like 'em, bring 'em back. After
>> building a wall of cabinets using that off brand set, I decided it
>> was well worth the money I had in it.
>>
>> The bottom of the cut wasn't as perfect as the $350 sets to be sure.
>> And it took a bit of fiddling sometimes to get a strange ridge that
>> would show up in the bottom of the cut. Once set it was fine.
>> After all, if the dado bottoms weren't perfect, who would know?
>> There certainly wasn't any difference in the performance of the
>> final product. The face frames covered the dado/shelf/plywood edge
>> detail on the front, and the backing on the back of the cabinets
>> covered the back cuts. And if the bottom of the cuts were not dead
>> smooth, they just held a bit more glue.
>>
>> Besides, for set up time, cost of the cutting apparatus, and quality
>> of cut, for the little bit of cabs I do these days I use a router
>> and jig with the proper bit. No chipping, perfectly flat bottoms and
>> the setup takes seconds.
>>
>> Robert
>>
>
> That's kind of the way I look at it for most dado/rabbet cutting. If
> they won't be seen, who cares? If they will be seen, clean up with the
> router or use the router first.

Keep this in mind. I used to use a router and straight bit, and I used
a cheap wobble dado blade. I tried to not use them because the results
were sub par. In particular cutting dado's/cutting cross grain on
plywood. The edge of the cut is what matters to me most as these almost
always show with my work and seldom do you see the bottoms of my dado's.

I have had the expensive set for 10+ years, Forrest 8" Dado King. You
know I build a lot of furniture and most all of it is held together by
rabbet's/lap joints, groves, and dados. There are no mechanical
fasteners, nails or screws, until I add hinges, leveling feet, or I
attach the backs. This includes the front and back face frames.
That set has never been out to be resharpened.

I guess where I am going with this is that with the better results the
more I use the set with out fear of screwing up a good piece of wood in
particular when cutting a dado across the width of a $100 sheet of plywood.

I would agree that the set you are pointing to is inexpensive and may
suite you well but if you have a need for a dado set that cuts well vs.
having a set on hand for when you might need it you might want to keep
in mind that the cheaper may not last long even if it does cut good.

Just something to think about. And there are plenty of good sets out
there besides Forrest.






>
> The TS is sooooo great for cutting them because of the horse power =
> speed, and the waste/sawdust clean up is much more efficient for the
> most part.
>
>
Uh-huh. ;~) I swear when I am building a project there are some days
when I switch out the dado set with the WWII 2~3 times a day.

Let us know how that set does if you try it out.

On 12/27/2015 9:05 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> I have a possible custom cabinet build coming up. If I get the job, I
> will likely be purchasing a high quality dado set. I haven't decided
> between the Dado King, the Freud Dial-A-Width Dado, or the Infinity
> Dadonator.

A dado set is one of my most used tools, using one on every project ...
literally hundreds of cabinets and pieces of furniture.

Being that essential to the way I do things, I bought the Freud D-A-W
quite a few years ago and will buy another if I ever wear this one out
.. too convenient not to have to fuss with shims.

AAMOF, I donated my Amana, which was top $$ when purchased, to a wRec
denizen because it hadn't been out of the box in years.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Sunday, December 27, 2015 at 11:32:31 AM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
> Avenger 8'' x 42T Stack Dado Set
> 50 bucks with free shipping.
> http://www.rockler.com/avenger-8-x-42t-stack-dado-set-while-supplies-last
>=20
> Buyer beware, reviews are mixed. From what I can tell you either get a=
=20
> good set or a bad set. Flip a coin and try them. :-)
>=20
> Might be good way to get into dado set for cheap if you don't absolutely=
=20
> need the highest quality results possible.

I think that is a great way to look at a product like that. Years ago Wood=
craft had the same set, just a little more than that price. I put a set on =
my old radial saw and used it to dado shelves in utility cabinets and it wo=
rked great. At that time there wasn't another dado set I could find that w=
as less than $200, and Woodcraft told me the same thing... don't like 'em, =
bring 'em back. After building a wall of cabinets using that off brand set=
, I decided it was well worth the money I had in it.

The bottom of the cut wasn't as perfect as the $350 sets to be sure. And i=
t took a bit of fiddling sometimes to get a strange ridge that would show u=
p in the bottom of the cut. Once set it was fine. After all, if the dado =
bottoms weren't perfect, who would know? There certainly wasn't any differ=
ence in the performance of the final product. The face frames covered the =
dado/shelf/plywood edge detail on the front, and the backing on the back of=
the cabinets covered the back cuts. And if the bottom of the cuts were no=
t dead smooth, they just held a bit more glue.

Besides, for set up time, cost of the cutting apparatus, and quality of cut=
, for the little bit of cabs I do these days I use a router and jig with th=
e proper bit. No chipping, perfectly flat bottoms and the setup takes seco=
nds.

Robert

Did you buy the 'imperial' model or the 'metric' model of Freud 10" data
set. I bout metric since it was made for the metric ply I was using.
You know that slop you get when cutting a 3/4" slot for a ""3/4"" that
is thinner being metric. Or measure with a metric calipers
and set the blades as needed.

Martin

On 12/27/2015 3:34 PM, Jack wrote:
> On 12/27/2015 12:32 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> Avenger 8'' x 42T Stack Dado Set
>> 50 bucks with free shipping.
>> http://www.rockler.com/avenger-8-x-42t-stack-dado-set-while-supplies-last
>>
>> Buyer beware, reviews are mixed. From what I can tell you either get a
>> good set or a bad set. Flip a coin and try them. :-)
>>
>> Might be good way to get into dado set for cheap if you don't absolutely
>> need the highest quality results possible.
>
> A few (10) years ago my BIL gave me a brand new 10", 60 tooth carbide
> Avenger Premium Pro blade and it is the one and only saw blade I ever
> owned that was no good. It could be the only Avenger blade that was no
> good, or it could be one of many, at any rate, it's hanging on the wall
> with about 10 minutes on it, probably to be made into a clock or something.
>
> Just thought I'd mention it.
>
> Also, I bought a Freud 10" dado set a while back, replacing a 7" set I'd
> used for years. I liked the 7" set better because the 10" is
> problematic to install and remove and aligning the blades correctly is a
> pia. I was looking at a 6" Olson dado set that the salesman (a
> woodworker) said was nice, but it looked way too small. Well, the 10"
> is way too big, and, as he mentioned, and I should have known, the big
> 10" blade is never needed for dado's, at least by me.
>

On 12/27/15 2:24 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sunday, December 27, 2015 at 11:32:31 AM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
>> Avenger 8'' x 42T Stack Dado Set 50 bucks with free shipping.
>> http://www.rockler.com/avenger-8-x-42t-stack-dado-set-while-supplies-last
>>
>>
>>
>>
Buyer beware, reviews are mixed. From what I can tell you either get a
>> good set or a bad set. Flip a coin and try them. :-)
>>
>> Might be good way to get into dado set for cheap if you don't
>> absolutely need the highest quality results possible.
>
> I think that is a great way to look at a product like that. Years
> ago Woodcraft had the same set, just a little more than that price.
> I put a set on my old radial saw and used it to dado shelves in
> utility cabinets and it worked great. At that time there wasn't
> another dado set I could find that was less than $200, and Woodcraft
> told me the same thing... don't like 'em, bring 'em back. After
> building a wall of cabinets using that off brand set, I decided it
> was well worth the money I had in it.
>
> The bottom of the cut wasn't as perfect as the $350 sets to be sure.
> And it took a bit of fiddling sometimes to get a strange ridge that
> would show up in the bottom of the cut. Once set it was fine.
> After all, if the dado bottoms weren't perfect, who would know?
> There certainly wasn't any difference in the performance of the
> final product. The face frames covered the dado/shelf/plywood edge
> detail on the front, and the backing on the back of the cabinets
> covered the back cuts. And if the bottom of the cuts were not dead
> smooth, they just held a bit more glue.
>
> Besides, for set up time, cost of the cutting apparatus, and quality
> of cut, for the little bit of cabs I do these days I use a router
> and jig with the proper bit. No chipping, perfectly flat bottoms and
> the setup takes seconds.
>
> Robert
>

That's kind of the way I look at it for most dado/rabbet cutting. If
they won't be seen, who cares? If they will be seen, clean up with the
router or use the router first.

The TS is sooooo great for cutting them because of the horse power =
speed, and the waste/sawdust clean up is much more efficient for the
most part.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 12/27/2015 12:32 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> Avenger 8'' x 42T Stack Dado Set
> 50 bucks with free shipping.
> http://www.rockler.com/avenger-8-x-42t-stack-dado-set-while-supplies-last
>
> Buyer beware, reviews are mixed. From what I can tell you either get a
> good set or a bad set. Flip a coin and try them. :-)
>
> Might be good way to get into dado set for cheap if you don't absolutely
> need the highest quality results possible.

A few (10) years ago my BIL gave me a brand new 10", 60 tooth carbide
Avenger Premium Pro blade and it is the one and only saw blade I ever
owned that was no good. It could be the only Avenger blade that was no
good, or it could be one of many, at any rate, it's hanging on the wall
with about 10 minutes on it, probably to be made into a clock or something.

Just thought I'd mention it.

Also, I bought a Freud 10" dado set a while back, replacing a 7" set I'd
used for years. I liked the 7" set better because the 10" is
problematic to install and remove and aligning the blades correctly is a
pia. I was looking at a 6" Olson dado set that the salesman (a
woodworker) said was nice, but it looked way too small. Well, the 10"
is way too big, and, as he mentioned, and I should have known, the big
10" blade is never needed for dado's, at least by me.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On 12/27/15 7:58 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 12/27/2015 2:37 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 12/27/15 2:24 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Sunday, December 27, 2015 at 11:32:31 AM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> Avenger 8'' x 42T Stack Dado Set 50 bucks with free shipping.
>>>> http://www.rockler.com/avenger-8-x-42t-stack-dado-set-while-supplies-last
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>> Buyer beware, reviews are mixed. From what I can tell you either get a
>>>> good set or a bad set. Flip a coin and try them. :-)
>>>>
>>>> Might be good way to get into dado set for cheap if you don't
>>>> absolutely need the highest quality results possible.
>>>
>>> I think that is a great way to look at a product like that. Years
>>> ago Woodcraft had the same set, just a little more than that price.
>>> I put a set on my old radial saw and used it to dado shelves in
>>> utility cabinets and it worked great. At that time there wasn't
>>> another dado set I could find that was less than $200, and Woodcraft
>>> told me the same thing... don't like 'em, bring 'em back. After
>>> building a wall of cabinets using that off brand set, I decided it
>>> was well worth the money I had in it.
>>>
>>> The bottom of the cut wasn't as perfect as the $350 sets to be sure.
>>> And it took a bit of fiddling sometimes to get a strange ridge that
>>> would show up in the bottom of the cut. Once set it was fine.
>>> After all, if the dado bottoms weren't perfect, who would know?
>>> There certainly wasn't any difference in the performance of the
>>> final product. The face frames covered the dado/shelf/plywood edge
>>> detail on the front, and the backing on the back of the cabinets
>>> covered the back cuts. And if the bottom of the cuts were not dead
>>> smooth, they just held a bit more glue.
>>>
>>> Besides, for set up time, cost of the cutting apparatus, and quality
>>> of cut, for the little bit of cabs I do these days I use a router
>>> and jig with the proper bit. No chipping, perfectly flat bottoms and
>>> the setup takes seconds.
>>>
>>> Robert
>>>
>>
>> That's kind of the way I look at it for most dado/rabbet cutting. If
>> they won't be seen, who cares? If they will be seen, clean up with the
>> router or use the router first.
>
> Keep this in mind. I used to use a router and straight bit, and I used
> a cheap wobble dado blade. I tried to not use them because the results
> were sub par. In particular cutting dado's/cutting cross grain on
> plywood. The edge of the cut is what matters to me most as these almost
> always show with my work and seldom do you see the bottoms of my dado's.
>
> I have had the expensive set for 10+ years, Forrest 8" Dado King. You
> know I build a lot of furniture and most all of it is held together by
> rabbet's/lap joints, groves, and dados. There are no mechanical
> fasteners, nails or screws, until I add hinges, leveling feet, or I
> attach the backs. This includes the front and back face frames.
> That set has never been out to be resharpened.
>
> I guess where I am going with this is that with the better results the
> more I use the set with out fear of screwing up a good piece of wood in
> particular when cutting a dado across the width of a $100 sheet of plywood.
>
> I would agree that the set you are pointing to is inexpensive and may
> suite you well but if you have a need for a dado set that cuts well vs.
> having a set on hand for when you might need it you might want to keep
> in mind that the cheaper may not last long even if it does cut good.
>
> Just something to think about. And there are plenty of good sets out
> there besides Forrest.
>
>
>>
>> The TS is sooooo great for cutting them because of the horse power =
>> speed, and the waste/sawdust clean up is much more efficient for the
>> most part.
>>
>>
> Uh-huh. ;~) I swear when I am building a project there are some days
> when I switch out the dado set with the WWII 2~3 times a day.
>
> Let us know how that set does if you try it out.
>

Oh, I'm *not* getting it. I was just giving a head's up for those who
might be looking to get into the stacked dado world for a very
discounted price of admission.

I have a Freud set that lies somewhere between this set and the Dado
King and it isn't as perfect as I'd like. It still leaves "bat ears"
and one chipper isn't perfectly the same dimension as the others.

I have a possible custom cabinet build coming up. If I get the job, I
will likely be purchasing a high quality dado set. I haven't decided
between the Dado King, the Freud Dial-A-Width Dado, or the Infinity
Dadonator.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 12/27/15 10:07 PM, krw wrote:
>>> Let us know how that set does if you try it out.
>>>
>>
>> Oh, I'm *not* getting it. I was just giving a head's up for those who
>> might be looking to get into the stacked dado world for a very
>> discounted price of admission.
>>
>> I have a Freud set that lies somewhere between this set and the Dado
>> King and it isn't as perfect as I'd like. It still leaves "bat ears"
>> and one chipper isn't perfectly the same dimension as the others.
>>
>> I have a possible custom cabinet build coming up. If I get the job, I
>> will likely be purchasing a high quality dado set. I haven't decided
>> between the Dado King, the Freud Dial-A-Width Dado, or the Infinity
>> Dadonator.
>
> Ridge Carbide? Wasn't there a discussion about Forrest's quality
> lacking, here recently?
>

Ridge Carbide Dado-Master added to the list!


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 12/27/2015 9:34 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
> Did you buy the 'imperial' model or the 'metric' model of Freud 10" data
> set. I bout metric since it was made for the metric ply I was using.
> You know that slop you get when cutting a 3/4" slot for a ""3/4"" that
> is thinner being metric. Or measure with a metric calipers
> and set the blades as needed.

You need shims to get to any nominal size. So for a 1/4" dado, you need
a couple shims. I guess the set is imperial, the knives are 1/8 and
1/16th I believe, and always cut under the nominal size w/o shims. A
3/4" dado needs shims to get to actual 3/4".

My original dado set cut exactly to 1/4" with 2 blades, and had 1/16th
and 1/8th blades, no shims at all, you had to make your own out of
paper. Wood 50 years ago was both imperial and actually full size. 1/4"
was, and 3/4" was...

>> Also, I bought a Freud 10" dado set a while back, replacing a 7" set I'd
>> used for years. I liked the 7" set better because the 10" is
>> problematic to install and remove and aligning the blades correctly is a
>> pia. I was looking at a 6" Olson dado set that the salesman (a
>> woodworker) said was nice, but it looked way too small. Well, the 10"
>> is way too big, and, as he mentioned, and I should have known, the big
>> 10" blade is never needed for dado's, at least by me.



--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On Sun, 27 Dec 2015 11:32:27 -0600
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:

> Buyer beware, reviews are mixed. From what I can tell you either get
> a good set or a bad set. Flip a coin and try them. :-)

most reviews are always mixed

did you get a set
if so report back

otherwise i think i will pass
i would rather buy a used set on ebay



btw it has been shown that a coin will land more often on the side
that starts facing up