Thinking about buying my first hand plane. I wathed a vid on FWW.com that
recommends a #4 smooth plane as a top 3 pick.
I was looking at the Veritas #4 smooth plane, but I don't know a whole heck
of a lot about these things. Are they all 110V or do I need a dedicated
220V recepticle? :)
Who else other than Veritas's #4 smooth should I be considering?
Thanks.
--
www.garagewoodworks.com
"Tristie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>A Cessna 172 gets my vote, but then again first time even a Cessna 150
> would be a good one to start with...........
Nah, Go for a 210 Turbo and enjoy.
Max
On Dec 5, 11:12 pm, "GarageWoodworks" <.@.> wrote:
> Thinking about buying my first hand plane. I wathed a vid on FWW.com that
> recommends a #4 smooth plane as a top 3 pick.
>
> I was looking at the Veritas #4 smooth plane, but I don't know a whole heck
> of a lot about these things. Are they all 110V or do I need a dedicated
> 220V recepticle? :)
>
> Who else other than Veritas's #4 smooth should I be considering?
>
> Thanks.
Clifton makes good planes. So does Lie-Nielsen. And, of course,
everyone should have at least one Sauer & Steiner in their (new) plane
collection.
JP
GarageWoodworks wrote:
> Thinking about buying my first hand plane. I wathed a vid on FWW.com that
> recommends a #4 smooth plane as a top 3 pick.
Depends what you want it for. If you already have a power jointer and
planer, then a smooth plane might be a good plan.
My first real plane was the Veritas low-angle jack plane. When I bought
it I didn't have a power jointer or planer.
With a low-angle blade it will plane endgrain and well-behaved softwood.
With a second higher-angle blade it works as an all-around plane.
It's long enough to joint with, and you can tighten the mouth enough to
smooth with it. I'm a pretty happy camper.
Eventually I'd like to add the bevel-up smoother and jointer to the cast
(since they can all share blades), but I have other things higher up on
the tool list.
Chris
Nova wrote:
> Look for an old Stanley Bailey #4 at garage sales, flea markets, etc.
> They can usually be had for $8 - $10 and work fine once tuned.
How will someone who has never used a plane be able to tune it given
that they don't know how things are "supposed" to be?
There's an interesting thread at Sawmill Creek called, "Dont do it! Why
newbies should NOT start with old planes."
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=70466
Chris
Jay Pique took a can of maroon spray paint on December 6, 2007 06:10 pm and
wrote the following:
> And, of course,
> everyone should have at least one Sauer & Steiner in their (new) plane
> collection.
>
Or a table saw.
;-)
--
Lits Slut #9
Life would be so much easier if we could just look at the source code.
> Depends what you want it for.
It (#4 smooth plane) was listed as one of three planes that every woodworker
(newbie) should buy first. Therefore, I am taking this at face value
(FWW.com) that it will be useful to me.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=29680
Thanks.
"Michael Faurot" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> GarageWoodworks <.@.> wrote:
>
>> I was looking at the Veritas #4 smooth plane, but I don't know a
>> whole heck of a lot about these things. Are they all 110V or do I
>> need a dedicated 220V recepticle? :)
>
> The better ones run on 3-phase power, so you'll probably need a rotary
> phase converter too. ;)
>
*snip*
You know... I've been thinking about getting one of those new planes that
runs on a completely renewable energy source. "Food", I think it's
called. Apparently, once this "food" is "eaten" it provides energy to
make the plane work.
This "food" stuff is not only renewable, but cheap too! You get "seeds"
and bury them in the yard. After a couple months, your "food" is good to
go.
You worked hard to earn your money, so keep working hard and use this
"food" to power your plane work.
Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
On Dec 5, 11:12 pm, "GarageWoodworks" <.@.> wrote:
> Thinking about buying my first hand plane. I wathed a vid on FWW.com that
> recommends a #4 smooth plane as a top 3 pick.
>
> I was looking at the Veritas #4 smooth plane, but I don't know a whole heck
> of a lot about these things. Are they all 110V or do I need a dedicated
> 220V recepticle? :)
>
> Who else other than Veritas's #4 smooth should I be considering?
>
> Thanks.
>
> --www.garagewoodworks.com
A 3 or a 5 will do you just as well for smoothing if you can't
find a 4. If you can't find either of those, buy an iron from
Hock and carve your own smoother from a cut off. Nice as a 4
is, a coffin-sided smoother is nicer still.
On Dec 6, 6:28 pm, FrozenNorth <[email protected]> wrote:
> Jay Pique took a can of maroon spray paint on December 6, 2007 06:10 pm and
> wrote the following:> And, of course,
> > everyone should have at least one Sauer & Steiner in their (new) plane
> > collection.
>
> Or a table saw.
> ;-)
Indeed. I don't have one, and don't have any plans to do so any time
soon, but ever since Lee Valley put out that stainless steel edge
trimmer, I've had Sauer & Steiner on my mind. I'm a little afraid.
JP
********************
Chris Friesen wrote:
> Nova wrote:
>
>> Look for an old Stanley Bailey #4 at garage sales, flea markets, etc.
>> They can usually be had for $8 - $10 and work fine once tuned.
>
>
> How will someone who has never used a plane be able to tune it given
> that they don't know how things are "supposed" to be?
>
The internet is a wonderful place...
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=tuning+a+hand+plane&btnG=Google+Search
Tuning/sharpening a plane is a necessary skill if you plan on using hand
planes. I rather practice on a plane costing $8 - $10.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
"GarageWoodworks" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thinking about buying my first hand plane. I wathed a vid on FWW.com
> that recommends a #4 smooth plane as a top 3 pick.
>
> I was looking at the Veritas #4 smooth plane, but I don't know a whole
> heck of a lot about these things. Are they all 110V or do I need a
> dedicated 220V recepticle? :)
>
> Who else other than Veritas's #4 smooth should I be considering?
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> www.garagewoodworks.com
>
>
KnighttoolWorks. Steve makes a great plane.
Either 110V or 220V will do fine as long as it's single phase.
Be sure to avoid 3 phase unless you are in an industrial area
and have 3 phase power available.
Art
"GarageWoodworks" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thinking about buying my first hand plane. I wathed a vid on FWW.com that
> recommends a #4 smooth plane as a top 3 pick.
>
> I was looking at the Veritas #4 smooth plane, but I don't know a whole heck
> of a lot about these things. Are they all 110V or do I need a dedicated
> 220V recepticle? :)
>
> Who else other than Veritas's #4 smooth should I be considering?
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> www.garagewoodworks.com
>
>
GarageWoodworks wrote:
> Thinking about buying my first hand plane. I wathed a vid on FWW.com that
> recommends a #4 smooth plane as a top 3 pick.
>
> I was looking at the Veritas #4 smooth plane, but I don't know a whole heck
> of a lot about these things. Are they all 110V or do I need a dedicated
> 220V recepticle? :)
>
> Who else other than Veritas's #4 smooth should I be considering?
>
> Thanks.
>
Look for an old Stanley Bailey #4 at garage sales, flea markets, etc.
They can usually be had for $8 - $10 and work fine once tuned.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
"GarageWoodworks" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Let me clarify this question so as I can squeeze more out. I am looking
> for other manufactures to consider for a #4 smooth plane. Not, which
> other hand planes (type) should I buy.
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> www.garagewoodworks.com
Lie Nielsen comes to mind.
For bench planes, I prefer Veritas bevel up planes and Lie Nielsen bevel
down planes. I have both makers in my block plane collection. I've never
been disappointed in either.
My Veritas medium shoulder plane is a winner.
NoOne N Particular wrote:
> Tristie wrote:
>> A Cessna 172 gets my vote, but then again first time even a Cessna 150
>> would be a good one to start with...........
> I would die a happy man if I could afford a Cessna 182.
>
I would die a confused, disoriented, spiraling, yet happy man if given
the controls of an F22 raptor.
--
"Hey, yutz! Guns aren't toys.
They're for family protection, hunting dangerous or delicious animals,
and keeping the King of England out of your face."
-- Krusty the Clown
> With a low-angle blade it will plane endgrain and well-behaved softwood.
> With a second higher-angle blade it works as an all-around plane.
> It's long enough to joint with, and you can tighten the mouth enough to
> smooth with it. I'm a pretty happy camper.
I'll second these opinions about the LV Low Angle Jack if you might
consider a longer plane, which could be more versatile. But if you're
pretty sure you want a smoother-sized plane, I also have the Bevel-Up
Smoother (http://tinyurl.com/24n6xp), and I'd recommend that VERY
highly - I have nothing but good things to say about it. Well, it's a
little ugly and some people think the handle is uncomfortable, but as
soon as I put it to some wood, I realized it's a beautiful tool that
feels great in use. I find it much easier to adjust than the standard
bevel-down planes (lateral, blade projection, and mouth opening). The
swappable blades make it ideal for use on a wide variety of woods.
It's nice and wide with a very low center of gravity - you just have
to push forward, as it feels like it's pulling itself right down
against the surface of the wood - not much downward pressure is
needed. And of course the plane and any blades come lapped and
polished and tweaked and ready to use. (But sooner or later you'll
definitely need some sharpening supplies).
Order one of these planes - I think you won't be disappointed. But
even if your opinions are very different from mine, you're still OK,
because LV is great about returns if you're not satisfied for any
reason.
Good luck and have fun planing,
Andy
(No affiliations except as a completely satisfied customer)
On Sun, 09 Dec 2007 10:14:13 -0800, Jim Weisgram
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>From a newbie's perspective, it takes a ton of time and significant
>funds to get it in good usable shape, and without a good reference
>piece, how do you know if its good?
A GREAT point, thanks for posting.
>1. Rust removal.
>2. Flattening the sole. A flat sole is critical to plane function.
>
>I had to buy a granite plate ($30), emery paper (60, 80, 120 grit;
>$5), automotive sandpaper (120 grit; 2 packs $5) , Norton wet/dry
>sandpaper (220, 400, 600 grit; $5 each); 20+ hours so far.ost.
>
>3. Blade and chipbreaker. It is likely that your current blade is
>short and thinner than recommended by most.
>
>4. Potential for missing parts.
>
>Total cost of my #4 rehab:
>
>$ 36 - plane
>$ 15 rust removal
>$ 60 flattening the sole
>$ 10 - repainting
>$ 65 replacement blade and chipbreaker
>$185
>
>Now, these are rough numbers. You may argue about any particular
>figure.
Nice post, I totally agree.
GarageWoodworks <.@.> wrote:
> I was looking at the Veritas #4 smooth plane, but I don't know a whole heck
> of a lot about these things. Are they all 110V or do I need a dedicated
> 220V recepticle? :)
The better ones run on 3-phase power, so you'll probably need a rotary
phase converter too. ;)
> Thinking about buying my first hand plane. I wathed a vid on FWW.com that
> recommends a #4 smooth plane as a top 3 pick.
> Who else other than Veritas's #4 smooth should I be considering?
Veritas/Lee Valley is an excellent choice. I have a few of their
planes and they're pretty much ready to go out of the box. The
only thing you might need to do is strop the blade a little. A
good complement to the #4 bench would be one of their adjustable
mouth block planes.
Also keep the following in mind, from someone that's also recently
become enthralled with working with hand planes:
o) To make the best use of any type of hand plane, you need a
decent bench to hold your work. If you've got no way to secure the
work, a hand plane is useless.
o) If you don't all ready have a method you like for sharpening
blades, start researching. Avoid getting caught up in a method that
takes a lot of time. Ideally, you want to be able to sharpen the
blade quickly and then get back to work.
--
If you want to reply via email, change the obvious words to numbers and
remove ".invalid".
[...snip..]
>How will someone who has never used a plane be able to tune it given
>that they don't know how things are "supposed" to be?
>
>There's an interesting thread at Sawmill Creek called, "Dont do it! Why
>newbies should NOT start with old planes."
>
>http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=70466
>
>
>Chris
>> Let's take a look at that post:
Dont do it! Why newbies should NOT start with old planes.
I recently bought a #4 off eBay for $26, plus $10 shipping, and, so
far, wish I had gone with a new Lee Valley instead. Here's why.
From a newbie's perspective, it takes a ton of time and significant
funds to get it in good usable shape, and without a good reference
piece, how do you know if its good?
>> to be sure, the time and effort to tune up an older plane,
>> or a less than prime new plane, should be considered. The
>> expense, however, does not have to be what is mentioned on
>> this post.
I would encourage you to consider the following factors before going
down this road:
1. Rust removal. Any old plane you buy will have rust. How will you
remove it? Do you have the tools to do electrolysis? If not, you will
have to buy a rust removal product. Budget $15-20 for chemicals, steel
wool, and a wire brush. 3-4 hours of setup, soaking, labor.
>> The tools to do electrolysis are an automotive battery charger,
>> a tub of water, a piece of iron, some washing soda, and some wire/clips.
>> But some Silicon Carbide sandpaper may be all you need.
2. Flattening the sole. A flat sole is critical to plane function.
>> You don't actually have to flatten the entire sole, although many do it
>> anyway. You want the area around the mouth to be flat and defect free.
I had to buy a granite plate ($30), emery paper (60, 80, 120 grit;
$5), automotive sandpaper (120 grit; 2 packs $5) , Norton wet/dry
sandpaper (220, 400, 600 grit; $5 each); 20+ hours so far.
>> You don't need a granite plate, you can use any flat surface,
>> including a piece of glass or your table saw or jointer top (if cast iron).
>> A piece of MDF will work if you have something flat to put it on.
>> You probably aren't going to need all that emery paper;
>> I'd just go with the 80 grit after seeing if I even need it that coarse.
>> (try some 220 first). You are probably going to want the wet/dry
>> sandpaper anyway for finishing wood so counting that isn't a real cost.
3. Blade and chipbreaker. It is likely that your current blade is
short and thinner than recommended by most. Replacement blade and
chipbreaker ($55 + $10 shipping). Order and wait.
>> You probably don't need that, you can sharpen the blade that comes
>> with the plane and it will do a good job. You have to learn to
>> sharpen regardless. Polish the chipbreaker you have, make sure
>> there are no gaps between blade and point of contact with the
>> chipbreaker so shavings don't get stuck.
4. Paint. Some people dont repaint, but if a decent amount of
japanning has worn off, you are going to want to remove and replace it
in order to prevent rust ($5 Dremel wire wheel [hope you have a
Dremel] and $5 Rustoleum. 5 hrs.
>> There's lots of ways to prevent rust without painting.
4. Potential for missing parts. As I have mentioned in another post,
the yoke (part of the depth adjuster) on my plane had been modified by
a previous owner, so a the chipbreaker would not seat properly.
Luckily, a generous fellow creeker felt pity on me and sent a
replacement. The fix cost me nothing, but I lost a good week
diagnosing and replacing the faulty component.
>> Yep, a real problem
Total cost of my #4 rehab:
$ 36 - plane
$ 15 rust removal
$ 60 flattening the sole
$ 10 - repainting
$ 65 replacement blade and chipbreaker
$185
Now, these are rough numbers. You may argue about any particular
figure. You may already have or have plans to buy a granite plate, for
example. If you are planning to do large number of planes, you can
spread the granite plate cost across the bulk of them. On the other
hand, you may need more sandpaper, you may have to repair a broken
handle, whatever.
For a newbie looking for a good worker to get started with, I argue
they are better off going with a known ready-to-use tool.
For example, for roughly the same amount $199, a newbie could buy a
brand new Lee Valley Bevel Up Smoother with an A1 steel blade. None of
the rehab would be required. Simply hone a 38 degree secondary bevel
on the blade (a la Derek Cohen) and boom, and youre set.
>> Good point. I just bought a new Lee Valley shoulder plane and it
>> is fantastic.
If the $ cost isnt enough to make the difference, what about time?
Remember, Im a hobbyist, so I dont have all day every day. I have a
few hours most weekends. To date, Ive spent at least 40 hours in
research, shopping, and manual labor rehabbing my #4. That is easily 5
weekends, really more! AND THE SOLE STILL ISN'T FLAT!!
>> It took me about 3 hours to do my #5.
Compare that to the 30 minutes it would have taken to get up an
running on a new LV. Think of all the wood I could have worked . . .
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