My dining room table is finished with "Behlen's Rock Hard Table Top Varnish"
and it has held up very well. I made the table about 8 years ago. This web
page talks about this finish:
http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles/SAL/tablevar.htm . I have no idea how
reliable this web site is -- I just found it by googling on "Rock Hard Table
Top Varnish," but what it says fits with my experience. I did rub out my
finish. Rock Hard Table Top Varnish is available from the usual suspects
(Woodcraft, Highland Hardware, etc.).
If you do not want an amber finish (almost all traditional varnishes will be
amber colored) then you might want to look into some of the new water-based
finishes as well as lacquer, but those are outside my realm of experience so
I can't offer any advice in that area.
- Bruce
"Tracer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have refinished a Maple dining table, and would like input for what
> is the best clear finish to put on this. I dont want to stain, as I
> love the color it is.
> I would like something that will obviously resist scratches, since
> this will be only for eating at.
> Thanks!
I have a teak table, and kids. The polyurethane finish is the way to go.
It was finished when the first was born, and its hanging in after 9 yrs.
It is the main table in the house
"Tracer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have refinished a Maple dining table, and would like input for what
> is the best clear finish to put on this. I dont want to stain, as I
> love the color it is.
> I would like something that will obviously resist scratches, since
> this will be only for eating at.
> Thanks!
As I understand it, wax is used as protection from mechanical wear. The wax
coating(s) provide a slipery surface, so that plates, silverware, or other hard
objects will slide over the surface of the table, instead of digging into the
finish. Wax does not protect the finish against light, liquid, or heat.
Curt Blood
<< Subject: Re: Best finish for Dining table???
From: "Graham Walters" graham@*spam*aceglow.demon.co.uk
Date: Tue, Oct 12, 2004 11:38 PM
Message-id: <[email protected]>
Could someone please explain the purpose of applying a wax over a
polyurethane finish. Also what type of wax?
Graham
> Polyurethane is about the toughest. After the last coat resist the
> temptation to put the table into use--wait a month or two for the poly
> to fully harden then apply a wax.
>>
I made a cherry dining room table 20 yrs ago. It has been in daily use ever
since and the four coats of urethane have never been renewed. I love
varnish but urethane stands up better to the inevitable knocks.
Dave
"Tracer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have refinished a Maple dining table, and would like input for what
> is the best clear finish to put on this. I dont want to stain, as I
> love the color it is.
> I would like something that will obviously resist scratches, since
> this will be only for eating at.
> Thanks!
I've used oil & waterbased Varathane as well as waterbased lacquer and
wouldn't cosider swithching back to oil. Fast drying without odors
and a snap to clen-up afterwards.
On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 14:56:43 GMT, "Bruce Hooke" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>If you do not want an amber finish (almost all traditional varnishes will be
>amber colored) then you might want to look into some of the new water-based
>finishes as well as lacquer, but those are outside my realm of experience so
>I can't offer any advice in that area.
On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 00:38:58 +0100, "Graham Walters"
<graham@*spam*aceglow.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>Could someone please explain the purpose of applying a wax over a
>polyurethane finish. Also what type of wax?
Paste wax. You put it on, let it dry a bit, and then buff it, and it
looks really nice (very high gloss) Might be a little redundant with
poly, but I've never tried the two together.
>Graham
>
>> Polyurethane is about the toughest. After the last coat resist the
>> temptation to put the table into use--wait a month or two for the poly
>> to fully harden then apply a wax.
>
I disagree with your assertion that poly is the "toughest". I give that
label to C-V. Of course it isn't much fun dealing with Xylene fumes...
David
David
Phisherman wrote:
> On 12 Oct 2004 05:59:27 -0700, [email protected] (Tracer)
> wrote:
>
>
>>I have refinished a Maple dining table, and would like input for what
>>is the best clear finish to put on this. I dont want to stain, as I
>>love the color it is.
>>I would like something that will obviously resist scratches, since
>>this will be only for eating at.
>>Thanks!
>
>
>
> Polyurethane is about the toughest. After the last coat resist the
> temptation to put the table into use--wait a month or two for the poly
> to fully harden then apply a wax.
On 12 Oct 2004 05:59:27 -0700, [email protected] (Tracer)
wrote:
>I would like something that will obviously resist scratches, since
>this will be only for eating at.
I wouldn't use polyurethane. It's a bit yellowish, but mainly because
there's one finish that's even harder. Acid-cure formaldehyde resins
are used for flooring and also for bars and tables. It's a two pack
paint you mix before use (not an epoxy or isocyanate though).
Easy to work with, although they do smell disgusting during
application. They harden and lose the smell completely within a few
hours.
Rustin's "Bar Top" would be a UK brand. Look for "Plastic Coating"
too.
--
Smert' spamionam
On 12 Oct 2004 05:59:27 -0700, [email protected] (Tracer)
wrote:
>I have refinished a Maple dining table, and would like input for what
>is the best clear finish to put on this. I dont want to stain, as I
>love the color it is.
>I would like something that will obviously resist scratches, since
>this will be only for eating at.
>Thanks!
Polyurethane is about the toughest. After the last coat resist the
temptation to put the table into use--wait a month or two for the poly
to fully harden then apply a wax.