I need to remove a whole bunch of really annoying viney weeds which
someone else planted in my flower beds (they may have been "cute" at
one time) --now it's time for all of them to go. It's not very
difficult to dig out a shovel full, but that leaves too much work still
(I did that yesterday--spending too many minutes freeing the roots from
the dirt. The roots seem to amass themselves in small areas.).
I was thinking of this tool, but am not confident it won't just bend
when I twist it.
There's another one out there too that I'm curious whether someone might
recommend.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hound-Dog-Stand-Up-Garden-Tiller-HDP31/202605474
Thank you for your help (and tolerance)!
Bill
On Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 6:41:11 PM UTC-4, G. Ross wrote:
> DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 3:57:04 PM UTC-4, BenignBodger wrote:
> >
> > Regarding Vinca minor/major, BenignBodger wrote:
> >
> > "I removed all I could and every day I look for more sprouts from the r=
oots and runners left behind and gently pull them out."
> >
> > Many years ago I removed a storm-damaged Mimosa tree from my front yard=
. Mimosa trees are notorious for having a very shallow root system. A few m=
onths after removing the stump and lawn-seeding the area formally under the=
tree, I began to notice Mimosa tree sprouts growing in radial lines from t=
he spot where the tree used to be. Some of these sprout lines extended 20-3=
0 feet from the origin.
> >
> > I ended up pulling roots that were 3"-4" below the surface, all of whic=
h were trying to replace the original tree with scores of miniature Mimosas=
.
> >
> > I started the season by seeding the area where the tree used to be and =
ended the season reseeding almost my entire lawn which was destroyed while =
removing the roots. What a PITA.
> >
> The way to kill them easily is just drill a couple of 1/2" holes in=20
> the stump and fill them with full strength roundup. The stump dies=20
> and all the suckers coming up from the roots die too. I had this=20
> happen with a Bradford pear and after working on the sprouts just to=20
> see more pop up from the roots I did the roundup in the holes bit and=20
> every sprout died and none have ever come back.
>=20
> --=20
What is your definition of "the stump dies" and how long does it take?
The Mimosa that I got rid of was damaged by an ice storm. After it was cut =
down, I was left with the stump and all of the exposed roots around the stu=
mp. It was in my front yard and it was an eyesore.
I worked hard to get of the stump as soon as winter was over so I could pat=
ch the lawn and get my curb appeal back. There is no way I would have wante=
d to wait weeks/months/years for the stump to die off and rot away.
Even though I'd had to redo the lawn again in the fall because of the roots=
, by the following spring my lawn was done and looking beautiful. Would the=
RoundUp have completely removed the stump and allowed to seed the lawn in =
one season?
DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 6:41:11 PM UTC-4, G. Ross wrote:
>> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> > On Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 3:57:04 PM UTC-4, BenignBodger wrote:
>> >
>> > Regarding Vinca minor/major, BenignBodger wrote:
>> >
>> > "I removed all I could and every day I look for more sprouts from the roots and runners left behind and gently pull them out."
>> >
>> > Many years ago I removed a storm-damaged Mimosa tree from my front yard. Mimosa trees are notorious for having a very shallow root system. A few months after removing the stump and lawn-seeding the area formally under the tree, I began to notice Mimosa tree sprouts growing in radial lines from the spot where the tree used to be. Some of these sprout lines extended 20-30 feet from the origin.
>> >
>> > I ended up pulling roots that were 3"-4" below the surface, all of which were trying to replace the original tree with scores of miniature Mimosas.
>> >
>> > I started the season by seeding the area where the tree used to be and ended the season reseeding almost my entire lawn which was destroyed while removing the roots. What a PITA.
>> >
>> The way to kill them easily is just drill a couple of 1/2" holes in
>> the stump and fill them with full strength roundup. The stump dies
>> and all the suckers coming up from the roots die too. I had this
>> happen with a Bradford pear and after working on the sprouts just to
>> see more pop up from the roots I did the roundup in the holes bit and
>> every sprout died and none have ever come back.
>>
>> --
>
> What is your definition of "the stump dies" and how long does it take?
>
> The Mimosa that I got rid of was damaged by an ice storm. After it was cut down, I was left with the stump and all of the exposed roots around the stump. It was in my front yard and it was an eyesore.
>
> I worked hard to get of the stump as soon as winter was over so I could patch the lawn and get my curb appeal back. There is no way I would have wanted to wait weeks/months/years for the stump to die off and rot away.
>
> Even though I'd had to redo the lawn again in the fall because of the roots, by the following spring my lawn was done and looking beautiful. Would the RoundUp have completely removed the stump and allowed to seed the lawn in one season?
>
Nope. I did not mean to imply that the stump would just evaporate.
The trees I had problems were in established flower/shrub gardens. I
was not about to tackle a 2 foot diameter stump there. The problem
was the shoots sprouting from all the far-flung roots. Roundup solved
that problem.
--
GW Ross
If I had only known, I should have
become a watchmaker. -- Einstein
In article <[email protected]>, Bill
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I need to remove a whole bunch of really annoying viney weeds which
> someone else planted in my flower beds (they may have been "cute" at
> one time) --now it's time for all of them to go. It's not very
> difficult to dig out a shovel full, but that leaves too much work still
> (I did that yesterday--spending too many minutes freeing the roots from
> the dirt. The roots seem to amass themselves in small areas.).
>
> I was thinking of this tool, but am not confident it won't just bend
> when I twist it.
> There's another one out there too that I'm curious whether someone might
> recommend.
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hound-Dog-Stand-Up-Garden-Tiller-HDP31/202605474
>
> Thank you for your help (and tolerance)!
>
> Bill
I have one. Use it every couple of years because I forget how useless
it is, then put it back in the shed. Total PITA to use for weeds. Not
bad for cultivating clean soil for seeding in small areas, but there
are better tools for that, too.
We're having a yard sale in about a month. Bet I can get $5 for it.
--
Splinters in my Fingers blog: <http://woodenwabbits.blogspot.com>
On 6/24/2015 11:27 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
> Don't forget the Preen. You may never stop fighting the vines if
> they seeded the grounds...
>
> Martin
>
> On 6/23/2015 7:17 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> I need to remove a whole bunch of really annoying viney weeds which
>>> someone else planted in my flower beds (they may have been "cute" at
>>> one time) --now it's time for all of them to go.
>>
>> I see that it has been 9 weeks since I made my post above. In a
>> dedicated way, I worked all of the soil and removed virtually all of the
>> annoying viney weeds. But we have had a lot of rain since then..
>>
>> Now I am facing "new growth"--at least several kinds of weeks (not the
>> original viney ones), almost 3 feet high and fairly dense. I've got 2
>> sessions in, one more to finish again. My wife suggested a "tarp" so
>> we/I don't have to deal with them in another 9 weeks.
>>
>> I was thinking of some "hens and chicks" as groundcover, but it will
>> take years for them to spread (and they are pricey on a per-each basis).
>> My dad showed me, when I was a youngster, that they spread very
>> effectively. I am also thinking about mulch. Will that adequately
>> take care of my problems? Other ideas? Sell the house? ; )
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bill
>>
>> P.S. Concerning my new Spading Fork. Why do they even make them with 3
>> foot handles like the one I bought (for kids or short people)? I
>> regret not buying one with a good 5 foot handle, for the leverage. I
>> still really like it compared to the shovel. They both have their place.
I've never found preen to work.
My wife would always swear by it, but we always worked hard at removing
the weeds after.
--
Jeff
On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 18:21:03 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 09:14:37 -0500, Markem <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>Round Up!
>
>Won't that make the immediate area a dead zone for a year or two?
>Potential problem if he want to plant something else?
No. Well, actually it depends on what product you use.
Info from the Manufacturer...
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Thank you for contacting us and for the opportunity to help you with
your lawn and garden endeavors.
Currently, we make several Roundup formulations. The time frame for
reseeding or sodding the lawn after applying varies depending upon the
formula. Below is a complete list for your review:
Roundup Weed & Grass Killer Ready-to-Use, Concentrate Plus, or Super
Concentrate:
You will be able to seed or sod 7 days after treating an area with
Roundup Weed & Grass Killer Ready-to-Use (blue cap), Concentrate Plus
(red cap), or Super Concentrate (purple cap). The plant absorbs the
product which then works through the plant's own system. Any product
that is not absorbed by the treated plant will quickly break down.
Because the active ingredients bind tightly to the soil, you can
safely replant the treated area three days later; however to ensure
complete kill of weeds you should wait seven days before disturbing or
sodding over the area.
Roundup Extended Control Concentrate or Ready-to-Use:
You may reseed or sod the lawn four months after using Roundup
Extended Control Formulas (silver/black cap). We recommend you do a
radish test after four months to see if the ground is clear of
herbicide. The radish seed is a very fast germinating seed. When
planted in a treated area, the seeds will germinate in 7-10 days if
the area is clear of herbicide. If the radish seed grows you can
safely lay sod or plant grass seed. Do not eat radishes grown for
these testing purposes.
Roundup Poison Ivy & Tough Brush Killer Concentrate or Ready-to-Use:
You will be able to sod or plant seed 3-7 days after treating an area
with Roundup Poison Ivy & Tough Brush Killer (yellow cap). The plant
absorbs the product which then works through the plant's own system.
Any product that is not absorbed by the treated plant will break down
relatively quickly allowing you safely replant the treated area 3-7
days later.
Thank you for taking the time to contact us and for your interest in
our products. Please feel free to contact our company anytime we may
be of assistance.
Allison Gostlin
Consumer Response Representative
The Scotts Company and Subsidiaries
14111 Scottslawn Road
Marysville, OH 43041
888-768-6387
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Jerry O.
On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 18:20:19 -0400, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> RE: Subject
>>
>> It's Round-Up time if you ever expect to win the war.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>
>I went to the web site. The version designed for Poison-ivy and brush
>(and tough vines) sounded right, except it said it wasn't supposed to be
>used around flower (or vegetable) gardens--they recommended the regular
>version of Round-Up for that instead. There are actually a lot of
>pretty spring flowers/bulbs among the mess (my wife keeps reminding me),
>so this is sort of a delicate operation. Sacrifices may need to be
>made... Thanks Lew. -Bill
>
>
I have found unless you spray the flower on bulbs they do not die.
On 4/14/2015 2:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 4:21:10 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> On Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 3:57:04 PM UTC-4, BenignBodger wrote:
>>
>> Regarding Vinca minor/major, BenignBodger wrote:
>>
>> "I removed all I could and every day I look for more sprouts from the roots and runners left behind and gently pull them out."
>>
>> Many years ago I removed a storm-damaged Mimosa tree from my front yard. Mimosa trees are notorious for having a very shallow root system. A few months after removing the stump and lawn-seeding the area formally under the tree,
>
> Durn speelchekr!
>
> formally under the tree ---> formerly under the tree
>
He said what he meant. He donned his Prince Albert attire before
attending to the task. :)
"Bill" wrote:
> I was thinking of this tool, but am not confident it won't just bend
> when I twist it.
> There's another one out there too that I'm curious whether someone
> might recommend.
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hound-Dog-Stand-Up-Garden-Tiller-HDP31/202605474
>
> Thank you for your help (and tolerance)!
-------------------------------------------------------
Strictly a toy.
You need the tool my dad had and last used 60+ years ago.
Think of a 4 tine pitch fork with a D handle.
Now think of the tines as being about 3/4"-7/8" wide and 1/8" thick.
That's describes that beast from memory.
As a teenager, I grew to hate that tool, but it worked.
Lew
G. Ross wrote:
>> Around here they are called spading forks or garden fork. They
>> work very well.
>>
>> http://www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors-Garden-Center-Garden-Tools-Gardening-Tools-Garden-Forks/N-5yc1vZc5ri
---------------------------------------------
That's the beast.
Was in a True Value hd'we this after noon and they had a private label
one for $32.99.
-------------------------------------------------
"Bill" wrote:
> When you say they work very well, are you saying that it will break
> up the soil to easily release the roots? The related "4-tine digging
> fork" appears to be more solid (at admittedly close to twice the
> price). Surely more leverage too. My knees and back thank you!
------------------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:
It's a total PITA job.
You will have your hands full no matter how you mechanically attack
the job.
Your knees and back will really thank you if you use Round-Up.
Lew
On 4/14/2015 4:45 PM, G. Ross wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> "Bill" wrote:
>>
>>
>>> I was thinking of this tool, but am not confident it won't just bend
>>> when I twist it.
>>> There's another one out there too that I'm curious whether someone
>>> might recommend.
>>>
>>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hound-Dog-Stand-Up-Garden-Tiller-HDP31/202605474
>>>
>>>
>>> Thank you for your help (and tolerance)!
>> -------------------------------------------------------
>> Strictly a toy.
>>
>> You need the tool my dad had and last used 60+ years ago.
>>
>> Think of a 4 tine pitch fork with a D handle.
>>
>> Now think of the tines as being about 3/4"-7/8" wide and 1/8" thick.
>> That's describes that beast from memory.
>>
>> As a teenager, I grew to hate that tool, but it worked.
>>
>>
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
> Around here they are called spading forks or garden fork. They work
> very well.
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors-Garden-Center-Garden-Tools-Gardening-Tools-Garden-Forks/N-5yc1vZc5ri
>
I have one of those for my...uh...garden. Good for digging up sweet
potatoes.
On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 17:55:42 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Jerry Osage wrote:
>
>> I had one - had being the operable word. It didn't bend, but it
>> didn't do much of anything else either in loose soil. I don't think
>> it will twist out most weeds - it wouldn't for me.
>>
>> I like Markem's suggestion of Roundup. Paint it on with a cheap paint
>> brush and wait a couple of weeks. If you didn't get a 100% kill, hit
>> what's left with Roundup again.
>>
>
>Ohhhhh... I'd never paint it on - that would be a lot of work. Roundup is
>intended to be sprayed on with a sprayer, or a watering can. I wouldn't be
>surprised to see it come back next year though - and maybe even in a couple
>months, this year.
Mike if you cut down a tree you can kill the stump with Round Up and
paint brush one of the cheap foam ones workk great. Mimosas I have cut
down get this treatment, as they are invasive weeds.
DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 3:57:04 PM UTC-4, BenignBodger wrote:
>
> Regarding Vinca minor/major, BenignBodger wrote:
>
> "I removed all I could and every day I look for more sprouts from the roots and runners left behind and gently pull them out."
>
> Many years ago I removed a storm-damaged Mimosa tree from my front yard. Mimosa trees are notorious for having a very shallow root system. A few months after removing the stump and lawn-seeding the area formally under the tree, I began to notice Mimosa tree sprouts growing in radial lines from the spot where the tree used to be. Some of these sprout lines extended 20-30 feet from the origin.
>
> I ended up pulling roots that were 3"-4" below the surface, all of which were trying to replace the original tree with scores of miniature Mimosas.
>
> I started the season by seeding the area where the tree used to be and ended the season reseeding almost my entire lawn which was destroyed while removing the roots. What a PITA.
>
The way to kill them easily is just drill a couple of 1/2" holes in
the stump and fill them with full strength roundup. The stump dies
and all the suckers coming up from the roots die too. I had this
happen with a Bradford pear and after working on the sprouts just to
see more pop up from the roots I did the roundup in the holes bit and
every sprout died and none have ever come back.
--
GW Ross
I'm the world's foremost authority on
my own opinion.
On Saturday, April 18, 2015 at 9:51:10 AM UTC-4, Brewster wrote:
> On 4/14/15 3:55 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> > Jerry Osage wrote:
> >
> >> I had one - had being the operable word. It didn't bend, but it
> >> didn't do much of anything else either in loose soil. I don't think
> >> it will twist out most weeds - it wouldn't for me.
> >>
> >> I like Markem's suggestion of Roundup. Paint it on with a cheap paint
> >> brush and wait a couple of weeks. If you didn't get a 100% kill, hit
> >> what's left with Roundup again.
> >>
> >
> > Ohhhhh... I'd never paint it on - that would be a lot of work. Roundup=
is
> > intended to be sprayed on with a sprayer, or a watering can. I wouldn'=
t be
> > surprised to see it come back next year though - and maybe even in a co=
uple
> > months, this year.
> >
>=20
> As an aside to painting it on, some things need that. Fer instance, salt=
=20
> bushes and Siberian elms, cut the main trunk and _immediately_ brush on=
=20
> some round-up concentrate. A sure kill.
> =3DBR
>=20
A guy that gives lectures at a garden center near me says that in some case=
s, such as a large fiat area of low growth weeds, using a paint roller is a=
nother option. A lot of time people will use a sprayer on a hose for large =
areas, but there is always the issue of precise control and overspray. A pa=
int roller on the end of an extension handle eliminates that problem.
He also likes to say that there is no such thing as a weed. However, there =
are certain varieties of plants that grow where we don't want them. ;-)
I live in Texas and here the weeds kill stuff. Kill or be killed.
So the variation in strength is by the volume bottle and by the
amount diluted in the sprayer. Yes - I have two sprayers.
A plastic one for Roundup and a ceramic steel one for other sprays.
There is a city strength and a strong strength industrial grade.
Martin
On 4/14/2015 5:20 PM, Bill wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> RE: Subject
>>
>> It's Round-Up time if you ever expect to win the war.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>
> I went to the web site. The version designed for Poison-ivy and brush
> (and tough vines) sounded right, except it said it wasn't supposed to be
> used around flower (or vegetable) gardens--they recommended the regular
> version of Round-Up for that instead. There are actually a lot of
> pretty spring flowers/bulbs among the mess (my wife keeps reminding me),
> so this is sort of a delicate operation. Sacrifices may need to be
> made... Thanks Lew. -Bill
>
>
>
It is only for seeds. It inhibits germination. Roots keep growing.
Grass seed in gardens next to the grass is prime.
Martin
On 6/25/2015 12:22 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 6/24/2015 11:27 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>> Don't forget the Preen. You may never stop fighting the vines if
>> they seeded the grounds...
>>
>> Martin
>>
>> On 6/23/2015 7:17 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> I need to remove a whole bunch of really annoying viney weeds which
>>>> someone else planted in my flower beds (they may have been "cute" at
>>>> one time) --now it's time for all of them to go.
>>>
>>> I see that it has been 9 weeks since I made my post above. In a
>>> dedicated way, I worked all of the soil and removed virtually all of the
>>> annoying viney weeds. But we have had a lot of rain since then..
>>>
>>> Now I am facing "new growth"--at least several kinds of weeks (not the
>>> original viney ones), almost 3 feet high and fairly dense. I've got 2
>>> sessions in, one more to finish again. My wife suggested a "tarp" so
>>> we/I don't have to deal with them in another 9 weeks.
>>>
>>> I was thinking of some "hens and chicks" as groundcover, but it will
>>> take years for them to spread (and they are pricey on a per-each basis).
>>> My dad showed me, when I was a youngster, that they spread very
>>> effectively. I am also thinking about mulch. Will that adequately
>>> take care of my problems? Other ideas? Sell the house? ; )
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Bill
>>>
>>> P.S. Concerning my new Spading Fork. Why do they even make them with 3
>>> foot handles like the one I bought (for kids or short people)? I
>>> regret not buying one with a good 5 foot handle, for the leverage. I
>>> still really like it compared to the shovel. They both have their
>>> place.
>
> I've never found preen to work.
> My wife would always swear by it, but we always worked hard at removing
> the weeds after.
>
>
>
On 4/14/2015 3:21 AM, Bill wrote:
> I need to remove a whole bunch of really annoying viney weeds which
> someone else planted in my flower beds (they may have been "cute" at
> one time) --now it's time for all of them to go. It's not very
> difficult to dig out a shovel full, but that leaves too much work still
> (I did that yesterday--spending too many minutes freeing the roots from
> the dirt. The roots seem to amass themselves in small areas.).
>
> I was thinking of this tool, but am not confident it won't just bend
> when I twist it.
> There's another one out there too that I'm curious whether someone might
> recommend.
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hound-Dog-Stand-Up-Garden-Tiller-HDP31/202605474
>
> Thank you for your help (and tolerance)!
>
> Bill
I find that pulling roots and all is greatly aided if the ground is
totally saturated with water.
On 4/14/2015 5:21 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 09:14:37 -0500, Markem <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>> Round Up!
>
> Won't that make the immediate area a dead zone for a year or two?
> Potential problem if he want to plant something else?
>
Typically for a few months. In SE Texas we have a problem with crab
grass in our yards. It looks a lot like our regular St.Augustine grass
except it grows twice as fast. You can shoot it with Roundup and 3~4
months later the grass grows back, less the crab grass, or you can paint
the individual crab grass blades with a Roundup saturated paper towel or
small brush.
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> He also likes to say that there is no such thing as a weed. However,
> there are certain varieties of plants that grow where we don't want
> them. ;-)
That line has been a standard part of horticulture since I was
a kid, if not a lot longer (I wonder how far back it goes?).
As for Roundup, it doesn't work here in the subtropics, sprayed,
painted, or any other way. So I'm kind big on the "no such
thing as a weed" idea.
John
Don't forget the Preen. You may never stop fighting the vines if
they seeded the grounds...
Martin
On 6/23/2015 7:17 PM, Bill wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> I need to remove a whole bunch of really annoying viney weeds which
>> someone else planted in my flower beds (they may have been "cute" at
>> one time) --now it's time for all of them to go.
>
> I see that it has been 9 weeks since I made my post above. In a
> dedicated way, I worked all of the soil and removed virtually all of the
> annoying viney weeds. But we have had a lot of rain since then..
>
> Now I am facing "new growth"--at least several kinds of weeks (not the
> original viney ones), almost 3 feet high and fairly dense. I've got 2
> sessions in, one more to finish again. My wife suggested a "tarp" so
> we/I don't have to deal with them in another 9 weeks.
>
> I was thinking of some "hens and chicks" as groundcover, but it will
> take years for them to spread (and they are pricey on a per-each basis).
> My dad showed me, when I was a youngster, that they spread very
> effectively. I am also thinking about mulch. Will that adequately
> take care of my problems? Other ideas? Sell the house? ; )
>
> Thanks
> Bill
>
> P.S. Concerning my new Spading Fork. Why do they even make them with 3
> foot handles like the one I bought (for kids or short people)? I
> regret not buying one with a good 5 foot handle, for the leverage. I
> still really like it compared to the shovel. They both have their place.
On Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 3:57:04 PM UTC-4, BenignBodger wrote:
Regarding Vinca minor/major, BenignBodger wrote:=20
"I removed all I could and every day I look for more sprouts from the roots=
and runners left behind and gently pull them out."
Many years ago I removed a storm-damaged Mimosa tree from my front yard. Mi=
mosa trees are notorious for having a very shallow root system. A few month=
s after removing the stump and lawn-seeding the area formally under the tre=
e, I began to notice Mimosa tree sprouts growing in radial lines from the s=
pot where the tree used to be. Some of these sprout lines extended 20-30 fe=
et from the origin.
I ended up pulling roots that were 3"-4" below the surface, all of which we=
re trying to replace the original tree with scores of miniature Mimosas.
I started the season by seeding the area where the tree used to be and ende=
d the season reseeding almost my entire lawn which was destroyed while remo=
ving the roots. What a PITA.
On Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 4:21:10 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 3:57:04 PM UTC-4, BenignBodger wrote:
>
> Regarding Vinca minor/major, BenignBodger wrote:
>
> "I removed all I could and every day I look for more sprouts from the roots and runners left behind and gently pull them out."
>
> Many years ago I removed a storm-damaged Mimosa tree from my front yard. Mimosa trees are notorious for having a very shallow root system. A few months after removing the stump and lawn-seeding the area formally under the tree,
Durn speelchekr!
formally under the tree ---> formerly under the tree
On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 04:21:58 -0400, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I was thinking of this tool, but am not confident it won't just bend
>when I twist it.
>There's another one out there too that I'm curious whether someone might
>recommend.
>
>http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hound-Dog-Stand-Up-Garden-Tiller-HDP31/202605474
>
>Thank you for your help (and tolerance)!
>
>Bill
I had one - had being the operable word. It didn't bend, but it
didn't do much of anything else either in loose soil. I don't think
it will twist out most weeds - it wouldn't for me.
I like Markem's suggestion of Roundup. Paint it on with a cheap paint
brush and wait a couple of weeks. If you didn't get a 100% kill, hit
what's left with Roundup again.
Jerry O.
On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 18:21:03 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 09:14:37 -0500, Markem <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>Round Up!
>
>Won't that make the immediate area a dead zone for a year or two?
>Potential problem if he want to plant something else?
The stuff you can buy for at home use is non persistant.
On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 18:20:19 -0400, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> RE: Subject
>>
>> It's Round-Up time if you ever expect to win the war.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>
>I went to the web site. The version designed for Poison-ivy and brush
>(and tough vines) sounded right, except it said it wasn't supposed to be
>used around flower (or vegetable) gardens--they recommended the regular
>version of Round-Up for that instead. There are actually a lot of
>pretty spring flowers/bulbs among the mess (my wife keeps reminding me),
>so this is sort of a delicate operation. Sacrifices may need to be
>made... Thanks Lew. -Bill
>
>
That is why I would brush it on. Or - I have several sizes of
containers with the bottom cut out. I have modified several gallon
bleach jugs. I put one down over the weed/plant I want dead and spray
down into the container with a course spray from a trigger spray
bottle from Home Depot.
If wanted plants would touch the sprayed one - leave the guard around
it until the Roundup has dried. I learned this the hard way. It
seems many desirable plants are much more susceptible to Roundup than
the weeds we were killing...
Jerry O.
I have a long stone driveway and use stronger than normal in the stone
and edges to fend off the aggressive weeds. Weeds and grasses tend to
dislodge stone.
I drive over it, but the grass takes the pressure and keeps on growing.
I use lighter strengths in and around gardens. I use a cardboard shield
when spraying around the stone boarders of the various beds.
Briar is a tough nasty vine that lives deep underground. Roundup is one
that will be absorbed by growing structure and take it below into the
knobs of material from which it comes. Thorns are hard on it.
Natural Ratan has to be just cut by hand. The spongy bark keeps the
spray from inner workings of the vine.
We keep the wild grape but cut it back if it gets to much. We had one
shot at growing grapes but the weather was to harsh. Maybe in a year
or two if it stays wet.
My fancy sprayer is saved for fruit spraying and oils and such.
Something that is used to eat.
Martin
On 4/14/2015 10:27 PM, Bill wrote:
> Martin Eastburn wrote:
>> I live in Texas and here the weeds kill stuff. Kill or be killed.
>>
>> So the variation in strength is by the volume bottle and by the
>> amount diluted in the sprayer. Yes - I have two sprayers.
>> A plastic one for Roundup and a ceramic steel one for other sprays.
>>
>> There is a city strength and a strong strength industrial grade.
> Martin, That's a good idea. I'll be mixing my own, from concentrate,
> so I'll keep "the recipe" in mind! Good idea! In other news, I'm not the
> proud owner of a spading fork. I started to write forking hoe instead
> and I sensed that
> something seemed dirty about it. I'll have to be more careful in
> conversation...
>
>
>>
>> Martin
>>
>> On 4/14/2015 5:20 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>>> RE: Subject
>>>>
>>>> It's Round-Up time if you ever expect to win the war.
>>>>
>>>> Lew
>>>>
>>>
>>> I went to the web site. The version designed for Poison-ivy and brush
>>> (and tough vines) sounded right, except it said it wasn't supposed to be
>>> used around flower (or vegetable) gardens--they recommended the regular
>>> version of Round-Up for that instead. There are actually a lot of
>>> pretty spring flowers/bulbs among the mess (my wife keeps reminding me),
>>> so this is sort of a delicate operation. Sacrifices may need to be
>>> made... Thanks Lew. -Bill
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 18:21:03 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 09:14:37 -0500, Markem <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>Round Up!
>
>Won't that make the immediate area a dead zone for a year or two?
>Potential problem if he want to plant something else?
No, the normal RoundUp only lasts a few days, tops. There is a longer
acting (silver bottle, IIRC) that is supposed to last a few months.
On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 09:14:37 -0500, Markem <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>Round Up!
Won't that make the immediate area a dead zone for a year or two?
Potential problem if he want to plant something else?
Boy that looks like work, and yes, I do understand about using a tool that
may fail in the process.....
I like the idea of wetting the area.
I also like the old fashioned pitch fork with strong tines.....
Usually the short one although one still needs to get down and dirty and
take the weeds out.
Is there room around the area to maneuver?
Or is it in a tight spot?
john
"Bill" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
I need to remove a whole bunch of really annoying viney weeds which
someone else planted in my flower beds (they may have been "cute" at
one time) --now it's time for all of them to go. It's not very
difficult to dig out a shovel full, but that leaves too much work still
(I did that yesterday--spending too many minutes freeing the roots from
the dirt. The roots seem to amass themselves in small areas.).
I was thinking of this tool, but am not confident it won't just bend
when I twist it.
There's another one out there too that I'm curious whether someone might
recommend.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hound-Dog-Stand-Up-Garden-Tiller-HDP31/202605474
Thank you for your help (and tolerance)!
Bill
On 4/14/2015 4:21 AM, Bill wrote:
> I need to remove a whole bunch of really annoying viney weeds which someone
> else planted in my flower beds (they may have been "cute" at one time)
> --now it's time for all of them to go. It's not very difficult to dig out
> a shovel full, but that leaves too much work still (I did that
> yesterday--spending too many minutes freeing the roots from the dirt. The
> roots seem to amass themselves in small areas.).
>
> I was thinking of this tool, but am not confident it won't just bend when I
> twist it.
> There's another one out there too that I'm curious whether someone might
> recommend.
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hound-Dog-Stand-Up-Garden-Tiller-HDP31/202605474
>
> Thank you for your help (and tolerance)!
>
> Bill
I have a similar tool, "Garden Weasel" or some such silliness IIRC, and I
did just the job you describe perhaps ten days back. My tool is quite
sturdy and has no problems even when faced with largish roots. My plant
nemesis was Vinca minor (or was it V. major? I don't know if I could tell
the difference). The tool did an adequate job of breaking up the top four
inches of soil and ripped up big handfuls of the plant. I removed all I
could and every day I look for more sprouts from the roots and runners left
behind and gently pull them out. This is a _very_ persistent plant and I've
heard it described as virtually unkillable, right behind Euonymus fortunii,
but every day there seem to be fewer and fewer sprouts. When I see no
sprouts for several days I'll re-mulch the bed.
BenignBodger wrote:
>
> I have a similar tool, "Garden Weasel" or some such silliness IIRC,
> and I did just the job you describe perhaps ten days back. My tool is
> quite sturdy and has no problems even when faced with largish roots.
> My plant nemesis was Vinca minor (or was it V. major? I don't know if
> I could tell the difference). The tool did an adequate job of breaking
> up the top four inches of soil and ripped up big handfuls of the
> plant. I removed all I could and every day I look for more sprouts
> from the roots and runners left behind and gently pull them out. This
> is a _very_ persistent plant and I've heard it described as virtually
> unkillable, right behind Euonymus fortunii, but every day there seem
> to be fewer and fewer sprouts. When I see no sprouts for several days
> I'll re-mulch the bed.
Thank you for your reply, Bodger and everyone. I just learned there are
ALOT of different weeds out there. I didn't find mine, but it is strong
and viney and persistent as all get out. I would say the root on mine
run about 4" deep too, so I have a very similar, problem. Bodger outline
a procedure that makes sense. I may add chemicals around the edges--I
need to read more first.
Thanks,
Bill
Jerry Osage wrote:
> I had one - had being the operable word. It didn't bend, but it
> didn't do much of anything else either in loose soil. I don't think
> it will twist out most weeds - it wouldn't for me.
>
> I like Markem's suggestion of Roundup. Paint it on with a cheap paint
> brush and wait a couple of weeks. If you didn't get a 100% kill, hit
> what's left with Roundup again.
>
Ohhhhh... I'd never paint it on - that would be a lot of work. Roundup is
intended to be sprayed on with a sprayer, or a watering can. I wouldn't be
surprised to see it come back next year though - and maybe even in a couple
months, this year.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> RE: Subject
>
> It's Round-Up time if you ever expect to win the war.
>
> Lew
>
I went to the web site. The version designed for Poison-ivy and brush
(and tough vines) sounded right, except it said it wasn't supposed to be
used around flower (or vegetable) gardens--they recommended the regular
version of Round-Up for that instead. There are actually a lot of
pretty spring flowers/bulbs among the mess (my wife keeps reminding me),
so this is sort of a delicate operation. Sacrifices may need to be
made... Thanks Lew. -Bill
G. Ross wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> "Bill" wrote:
>>
>>
>>> I was thinking of this tool, but am not confident it won't just bend
>>> when I twist it.
>>> There's another one out there too that I'm curious whether someone
>>> might recommend.
>>>
>>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hound-Dog-Stand-Up-Garden-Tiller-HDP31/202605474
>>>
>>>
>>> Thank you for your help (and tolerance)!
>> -------------------------------------------------------
>> Strictly a toy.
>>
>> You need the tool my dad had and last used 60+ years ago.
>>
>> Think of a 4 tine pitch fork with a D handle.
>>
>> Now think of the tines as being about 3/4"-7/8" wide and 1/8" thick.
>> That's describes that beast from memory.
>>
>> As a teenager, I grew to hate that tool, but it worked.
>>
>>
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
> Around here they are called spading forks or garden fork. They work
> very well.
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors-Garden-Center-Garden-Tools-Gardening-Tools-Garden-Forks/N-5yc1vZc5ri
>
>
When you say they work very well, are you saying that it will break up
the soil to easily release the roots? The related "4-tine digging fork"
appears to be more solid (at admittedly close to twice the price).
Surely more leverage too. My knees and back thank you!
G. Ross wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> "Bill" wrote:
>>
>>
>>> I was thinking of this tool, but am not confident it won't just bend
>>> when I twist it.
>>> There's another one out there too that I'm curious whether someone
>>> might recommend.
>>>
>>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hound-Dog-Stand-Up-Garden-Tiller-HDP31/202605474
>>>
>>>
>>> Thank you for your help (and tolerance)!
>> -------------------------------------------------------
>> Strictly a toy.
>>
>> You need the tool my dad had and last used 60+ years ago.
>>
>> Think of a 4 tine pitch fork with a D handle.
>>
>> Now think of the tines as being about 3/4"-7/8" wide and 1/8" thick.
>> That's describes that beast from memory.
>>
>> As a teenager, I grew to hate that tool, but it worked.
>>
>>
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
> Around here they are called spading forks or garden fork. They work
> very well.
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors-Garden-Center-Garden-Tools-Gardening-Tools-Garden-Forks/N-5yc1vZc5ri
>
>
If anyone, like me, has never used this tool before, the guy in this
video gives a good demo at the end.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12fECzuihYE
In reading product reviews, I'm encountering alot of them that are
cheaply made. That's criticism of something other than the tool itself!
Bill
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> G. Ross wrote:
>
>>> Around here they are called spading forks or garden fork. They
>>> work very well.
>>>
>>> http://www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors-Garden-Center-Garden-Tools-Gardening-Tools-Garden-Forks/N-5yc1vZc5ri
> ---------------------------------------------
> That's the beast.
> Was in a True Value hd'we this after noon and they had a private label
> one for $32.99.
> -------------------------------------------------
> "Bill" wrote:
>
>
>> When you say they work very well, are you saying that it will break
>> up the soil to easily release the roots? The related "4-tine digging
>> fork" appears to be more solid (at admittedly close to twice the
>> price). Surely more leverage too. My knees and back thank you!
> ------------------------------------------------------
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
> It's a total PITA job.
>
> You will have your hands full no matter how you mechanically attack
> the job.
>
> Your knees and back will really thank you if you use Round-Up.
>
> Lew
>
I'm leaving to to get this right now. I will probably use Round-Up
too. I believe every word you wrote! --Bill
http://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/garden-landscaping-tools/gardening-tools/yardworks-d-handle-spading-fork-with-4-tines/p-1812163-c-13241.htm
Markem wrote:
>
> Mike if you cut down a tree you can kill the stump with Round Up and
> paint brush one of the cheap foam ones workk great. Mimosas I have cut
> down get this treatment, as they are invasive weeds.
Huh! Never thought of that.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 09:14:37 -0500, Markem <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>> Round Up!
>
> Won't that make the immediate area a dead zone for a year or two?
> Potential problem if he want to plant something else?
Nope - Roundup and most of the competing products become inert upon
evaporation. They only work through absorbtion through the leaves, so once
it evaporates, there's nothing left to harm future plantings.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Martin Eastburn wrote:
> I live in Texas and here the weeds kill stuff. Kill or be killed.
>
> So the variation in strength is by the volume bottle and by the
> amount diluted in the sprayer. Yes - I have two sprayers.
> A plastic one for Roundup and a ceramic steel one for other sprays.
>
> There is a city strength and a strong strength industrial grade.
Martin, That's a good idea. I'll be mixing my own, from concentrate,
so I'll keep "the recipe" in mind! Good idea! In other news, I'm not the
proud owner of a spading fork. I started to write forking hoe instead
and I sensed that
something seemed dirty about it. I'll have to be more careful in
conversation...
>
> Martin
>
> On 4/14/2015 5:20 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>> RE: Subject
>>>
>>> It's Round-Up time if you ever expect to win the war.
>>>
>>> Lew
>>>
>>
>> I went to the web site. The version designed for Poison-ivy and brush
>> (and tough vines) sounded right, except it said it wasn't supposed to be
>> used around flower (or vegetable) gardens--they recommended the regular
>> version of Round-Up for that instead. There are actually a lot of
>> pretty spring flowers/bulbs among the mess (my wife keeps reminding me),
>> so this is sort of a delicate operation. Sacrifices may need to be
>> made... Thanks Lew. -Bill
>>
>>
>>
Bill wrote:
> Martin Eastburn wrote:
>> I live in Texas and here the weeds kill stuff. Kill or be killed.
>>
>> So the variation in strength is by the volume bottle and by the
>> amount diluted in the sprayer. Yes - I have two sprayers.
>> A plastic one for Roundup and a ceramic steel one for other sprays.
>>
>> There is a city strength and a strong strength industrial grade.
> Martin, That's a good idea. I'll be mixing my own, from concentrate,
> so I'll keep "the recipe" in mind! Good idea! In other news, I'm not
> the
Oops typo: that's "I'm NOW the
> proud owner of a spading fork. I started to write forking hoe instead
> and I sensed that
> something seemed dirty about it. I'll have to be more careful in
> conversation...
>
>
>>
>> Martin
>>
>> On 4/14/2015 5:20 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>>> RE: Subject
>>>>
>>>> It's Round-Up time if you ever expect to win the war.
>>>>
>>>> Lew
>>>>
>>>
>>> I went to the web site. The version designed for Poison-ivy and brush
>>> (and tough vines) sounded right, except it said it wasn't supposed
>>> to be
>>> used around flower (or vegetable) gardens--they recommended the regular
>>> version of Round-Up for that instead. There are actually a lot of
>>> pretty spring flowers/bulbs among the mess (my wife keeps reminding
>>> me),
>>> so this is sort of a delicate operation. Sacrifices may need to be
>>> made... Thanks Lew. -Bill
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
Dave Balderstone wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, Bill
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I need to remove a whole bunch of really annoying viney weeds which
>> someone else planted in my flower beds (they may have been "cute" at
>> one time) --now it's time for all of them to go. It's not very
>> difficult to dig out a shovel full, but that leaves too much work still
>> (I did that yesterday--spending too many minutes freeing the roots from
>> the dirt. The roots seem to amass themselves in small areas.).
>>
>> I was thinking of this tool, but am not confident it won't just bend
>> when I twist it.
>> There's another one out there too that I'm curious whether someone might
>> recommend.
>>
>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hound-Dog-Stand-Up-Garden-Tiller-HDP31/202605474
>>
>> Thank you for your help (and tolerance)!
>>
>> Bill
> I have one. Use it every couple of years because I forget how useless
> it is, then put it back in the shed. Total PITA to use for weeds. Not
> bad for cultivating clean soil for seeding in small areas, but there
> are better tools for that, too.
I got a "spading fork" yesterday, thanks to the thoughtful advise I got
here.
Round-Up is highly regarded too. The weather didn't cooperate today.
Thanks,
Bill
>
>
G. Ross wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> "Bill" wrote:
>>
>>
>>> I was thinking of this tool, but am not confident it won't just bend
>>> when I twist it.
>>> There's another one out there too that I'm curious whether someone
>>> might recommend.
>>>
>>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hound-Dog-Stand-Up-Garden-Tiller-HDP31/202605474
>>>
>>>
>>> Thank you for your help (and tolerance)!
>> -------------------------------------------------------
>> Strictly a toy.
>>
>> You need the tool my dad had and last used 60+ years ago.
>>
>> Think of a 4 tine pitch fork with a D handle.
>>
>> Now think of the tines as being about 3/4"-7/8" wide and 1/8" thick.
>> That's describes that beast from memory.
>>
>> As a teenager, I grew to hate that tool, but it worked.
>>
>>
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
> Around here they are called spading forks or garden fork. They work
> very well.
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors-Garden-Center-Garden-Tools-Gardening-Tools-Garden-Forks/N-5yc1vZc5ri
>
>
I'm please to report that I am very pleased with the performance of the
spading fork.
I think I have just 2 or maybe 3 more sessions to finish the job. Then
I'll use some Round-Up (particularly where it is impossible to
dig--think "stacked chucks of concrete"). Thank you for your generous
assistance! That is my best find since "Durhams' Water Putty"!
If I could go back and time and give my dad a spading fork, he would
have loved it--and he would have gotten a great deal of use out of it!
Without a little knowledge, you don't know what he or she is missing!
It would be great for "worming" too!
I had a hunch the "Hound-Dog Stand Up Garden Tiller" wasn't going to
live up to it's sales pitch... I guess, from the other thread, that
some people here would call the people who buy one "idiots", but I think
that is a little harsh.
Bill
On 4/14/15 3:55 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Jerry Osage wrote:
>
>> I had one - had being the operable word. It didn't bend, but it
>> didn't do much of anything else either in loose soil. I don't think
>> it will twist out most weeds - it wouldn't for me.
>>
>> I like Markem's suggestion of Roundup. Paint it on with a cheap paint
>> brush and wait a couple of weeks. If you didn't get a 100% kill, hit
>> what's left with Roundup again.
>>
>
> Ohhhhh... I'd never paint it on - that would be a lot of work. Roundup is
> intended to be sprayed on with a sprayer, or a watering can. I wouldn't be
> surprised to see it come back next year though - and maybe even in a couple
> months, this year.
>
As an aside to painting it on, some things need that. Fer instance, salt
bushes and Siberian elms, cut the main trunk and _immediately_ brush on
some round-up concentrate. A sure kill.
=BR
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: [email protected] ---
<html>
<head>
<meta content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" http-equiv="Content-Type">
</head>
<body text="#000000" bgcolor="#CCFFFF">
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Bill wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:[email protected]" type="cite">I
need to remove a whole bunch of really annoying viney weeds which
someone else planted in my flower beds (they may have been "cute"
at one time) --now it's time for all of them to go.  </blockquote>
<br>
I see that it has been 9 weeks since I made my post above. In a
dedicated way, I worked all of the soil and removed virtually all of
the annoying viney weeds. But we have had a lot of rain since
then..<br>
<br>
Now I am facing "new growth"--at least several kinds of weeks (not
the original viney ones), almost 3 feet high and fairly dense. I've
got 2 sessions in, one more to finish again. Â My wife suggested a
"tarp" so we/I don't have to deal with them in another 9 weeks. <br>
<br>
I was thinking of some "hens and chicks" as groundcover, but it will
take years for them to spread (and they are pricey on a per-each
basis). Â My dad showed me, when I was a youngster, that they spread
very effectively.  I am also thinking about mulch. Will that
adequately take care of my problems? Other ideas? Sell the house?Â
; )<br>
<br>
Thanks<br>
Bill <br>
<br>
P.S. Concerning my new Spading Fork. Why do they even make them
with 3 foot handles like the one I bought (for kids or short
people)? Â I regret not buying one with a good 5 foot handle, for
the leverage. I still really like it compared to the shovel. They
both have their place.<br>
</body>
</html>
Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
> I need to remove a whole bunch of really annoying viney
> weeds which someone else planted in my flower beds (they may have
> been "cute" at one time) --now it's time for all of them to go.
> I see that it has been 9 weeks since I made my post above. In a
> dedicated way, I worked all of the soil and removed virtually all of
> the annoying viney weeds. But we have had a lot of rain since then..
>
> Now I am facing "new growth"--at least several kinds of weeks (not
> the original viney ones), almost 3 feet high and fairly dense. I've
> got 2 sessions in, one more to finish again. My wife suggested a
> "tarp" so we/I don't have to deal with them in another 9 weeks.
>
> I was thinking of some "hens and chicks" as groundcover, but it
> will take years for them to spread (and they are pricey on a
> per-each basis). My dad showed me, when I was a youngster, that
> they spread very effectively. I am also thinking about mulch.
> Will that adequately take care of my problems? Other ideas? Sell
> the house? ; )
>
> Thanks
> Bill
>
> P.S. Concerning my new Spading Fork. Why do they even make them
> with 3 foot handles like the one I bought (for kids or short
> people)? I regret not buying one with a good 5 foot handle, for
> the leverage. I still really like it compared to the shovel. They
> both have their place.
Add chickens if you want one more thing to worry about. Lay down a tarp
to cut the sun light and nothing will grow.
On Thursday, June 25, 2015 at 1:10:37 PM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
> DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > Add chickens if you want one more thing to worry about. Lay down a tarp
> > to cut the sun light and nothing will grow.
> > True, nothing will grow, but the chickens will eventually begin to smell bad.
>
> I've got 3 large "hens and chicks" which I hope will colonize the area,
> at least a lot of it! ; )
Depending on the variety of Hens and Chicks you have, you may need to help it along if you want it to spread. Read more about it here:
http://www.youngs-garden.com/succulents/planting-hens-and-chicks/
On Thursday, June 25, 2015 at 4:44:54 PM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
> DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Thursday, June 25, 2015 at 1:10:37 PM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
> >> DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>> Add chickens if you want one more thing to worry about. Lay down a =
tarp
> >>> to cut the sun light and nothing will grow.
> >>> True, nothing will grow, but the chickens will eventually begin to sm=
ell bad.
> >> I've got 3 large "hens and chicks" which I hope will colonize the area=
,
> >> at least a lot of it! ; )
> > Depending on the variety of Hens and Chicks you have, you may need to h=
elp it along if you want it to spread. Read more about it here:
> >
> > http://www.youngs-garden.com/succulents/planting-hens-and-chicks/
>=20
> Thank you. That link is very helpful. I hope my soil isn't "too good"=20
> for them. Since they will be on a 10 foot diameter "mound"which is=20
> perhaps 1 foot high, that should help with drainage.
I can speak to drainage issues first, well second, hand.
SWMBO runs a greenhouse at a farm that is used as a day-hab for disabled ad=
ults. She has hens and chicks growing in an old sink as a decoration. She w=
as having problems with them until she realized that they were getting too =
much water from the timer-based sprinkler system. She moved the sink to a d=
ryer zone and they are doing quite well now.
On Thursday, June 25, 2015 at 8:24:19 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Bill wrote:
> >
> > I need to remove a whole bunch of really annoying viney
> > weeds which someone else planted in my flower beds (they may have
> > been "cute" at one time) --now it's time for all of them to go.
> > I see that it has been 9 weeks since I made my post above. In a
> > dedicated way, I worked all of the soil and removed virtually all of
> > the annoying viney weeds. But we have had a lot of rain since then..
> >
> > Now I am facing "new growth"--at least several kinds of weeks (not
> > the original viney ones), almost 3 feet high and fairly dense. I've
> > got 2 sessions in, one more to finish again. My wife suggested a
> > "tarp" so we/I don't have to deal with them in another 9 weeks.
> >
> > I was thinking of some "hens and chicks" as groundcover, but it
> > will take years for them to spread (and they are pricey on a
> > per-each basis). My dad showed me, when I was a youngster, that
> > they spread very effectively. I am also thinking about mulch.
> > Will that adequately take care of my problems? Other ideas? Sell
> > the house? ; )
> >
> > Thanks
> > Bill
> >
> > P.S. Concerning my new Spading Fork. Why do they even make them
> > with 3 foot handles like the one I bought (for kids or short
> > people)? I regret not buying one with a good 5 foot handle, for
> > the leverage. I still really like it compared to the shovel. They
> > both have their place.
>
> Add chickens if you want one more thing to worry about. Lay down a tarp
> to cut the sun light and nothing will grow.
True, nothing will grow, but the chickens will eventually begin to smell bad.
DerbyDad03 wrote:
> Add chickens if you want one more thing to worry about. Lay down a tarp
> to cut the sun light and nothing will grow.
> True, nothing will grow, but the chickens will eventually begin to smell bad.
I've got 3 large "hens and chicks" which I hope will colonize the area,
at least a lot of it! ; )
DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Thursday, June 25, 2015 at 1:10:37 PM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
>> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> Add chickens if you want one more thing to worry about. Lay down a tarp
>>> to cut the sun light and nothing will grow.
>>> True, nothing will grow, but the chickens will eventually begin to smell bad.
>> I've got 3 large "hens and chicks" which I hope will colonize the area,
>> at least a lot of it! ; )
> Depending on the variety of Hens and Chicks you have, you may need to help it along if you want it to spread. Read more about it here:
>
> http://www.youngs-garden.com/succulents/planting-hens-and-chicks/
Thank you. That link is very helpful. I hope my soil isn't "too good"
for them. Since they will be on a 10 foot diameter "mound"which is
perhaps 1 foot high, that should help with drainage.
DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Thursday, June 25, 2015 at 4:44:54 PM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
>> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Thursday, June 25, 2015 at 1:10:37 PM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
>>>> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>> Add chickens if you want one more thing to worry about. Lay down a tarp
>>>>> to cut the sun light and nothing will grow.
>>>>> True, nothing will grow, but the chickens will eventually begin to smell bad.
>>>> I've got 3 large "hens and chicks" which I hope will colonize the area,
>>>> at least a lot of it! ; )
>>> Depending on the variety of Hens and Chicks you have, you may need to help it along if you want it to spread. Read more about it here:
>>>
>>> http://www.youngs-garden.com/succulents/planting-hens-and-chicks/
>> Thank you. That link is very helpful. I hope my soil isn't "too good"
>> for them. Since they will be on a 10 foot diameter "mound"which is
>> perhaps 1 foot high, that should help with drainage.
> I can speak to drainage issues first, well second, hand.
>
> SWMBO runs a greenhouse at a farm that is used as a day-hab for disabled adults. She has hens and chicks growing in an old sink as a decoration. She was having problems with them until she realized that they were getting too much water from the timer-based sprinkler system. She moved the sink to a dryer zone and they are doing quite well now.
They should be happy here, if they don't mind the direct sunlight. It's
raining here today, so I'll move them in within the next couple of
days. My experience with hens and chicks has 2 elements:
- They grew well where I grew up in the midwest, which in retrospect had
a somewhat sandy soil in general.
- Someone gave me a pot of them a long while back as a gift, and I
enjoyed them as an apartment dweller in 3 states. I took good care of
them and they grew well and they eventually outgrew their pot. So I
bought them a bigger container and some "decent" potting soil which I
mixed with some dirt. In a few days they turned to "mush" and I
discarded them. Sort of hurt my feelings....
Each of these experiences are consistent with the link that you sent.
Cheers,
Bill
DerbyDad03 wrote:
> He also likes to say that there is no such thing as a weed. However,
> there are certain varieties of plants that grow where we don't want
> them. ;-)
And they grow very well! There were/are at least 6 tomato plants and 2
corn plants too. I assume the adjacent bird feeding station had
something to do with them; the former indirectly.
John McCoy wrote:
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> He also likes to say that there is no such thing as a weed. However,
>> there are certain varieties of plants that grow where we don't want
>> them. ;-)
> That line has been a standard part of horticulture since I was
> a kid, if not a lot longer (I wonder how far back it goes?).
>
> As for Roundup, it doesn't work here in the subtropics, sprayed,
> painted, or any other way. So I'm kind big on the "no such
> thing as a weed" idea.
>
> John
Followup. The rest of the plants that were "acting like" weeds got
removed. A few of the tomato plants were allowed to stay. Bought a
garden-bow rake (handy for $9) and spread mulch. Also learned you can
get offered a 25% discount on hens and chicks (plants) for "hesitating"
at the garden store (that probably wouldn't work at a big box store). I
accepted the offer. I guess if I looked I could find a couple of other
beds of horticultural-monstrosity that need related attention. The price
of a gallon of gas is $2.67; a two ft^2 bag of mulch is $2.97. That
covers it! Well, several of them do...
Cheers,
Bill
>
On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 04:21:58 -0400, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I need to remove a whole bunch of really annoying viney weeds which
>someone else planted in my flower beds (they may have been "cute" at
>one time) --now it's time for all of them to go. It's not very
>difficult to dig out a shovel full, but that leaves too much work still
>(I did that yesterday--spending too many minutes freeing the roots from
>the dirt. The roots seem to amass themselves in small areas.).
>
>I was thinking of this tool, but am not confident it won't just bend
>when I twist it.
>There's another one out there too that I'm curious whether someone might
>recommend.
>
>http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hound-Dog-Stand-Up-Garden-Tiller-HDP31/202605474
>
>Thank you for your help (and tolerance)!
>
>Bill
Round Up!
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Bill" wrote:
>
>
>> I was thinking of this tool, but am not confident it won't just bend
>> when I twist it.
>> There's another one out there too that I'm curious whether someone
>> might recommend.
>>
>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hound-Dog-Stand-Up-Garden-Tiller-HDP31/202605474
>>
>> Thank you for your help (and tolerance)!
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Strictly a toy.
>
> You need the tool my dad had and last used 60+ years ago.
>
> Think of a 4 tine pitch fork with a D handle.
>
> Now think of the tines as being about 3/4"-7/8" wide and 1/8" thick.
> That's describes that beast from memory.
>
> As a teenager, I grew to hate that tool, but it worked.
>
>
>
> Lew
>
>
Around here they are called spading forks or garden fork. They work
very well.
http://www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors-Garden-Center-Garden-Tools-Gardening-Tools-Garden-Forks/N-5yc1vZc5ri
--
GW Ross
I'm the world's foremost authority on
my own opinion.
On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 17:55:42 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Jerry Osage wrote:
>
>> I had one - had being the operable word. It didn't bend, but it
>> didn't do much of anything else either in loose soil. I don't think
>> it will twist out most weeds - it wouldn't for me.
>>
>> I like Markem's suggestion of Roundup. Paint it on with a cheap paint
>> brush and wait a couple of weeks. If you didn't get a 100% kill, hit
>> what's left with Roundup again.
>>
>
>Ohhhhh... I'd never paint it on - that would be a lot of work. Roundup is
>intended to be sprayed on with a sprayer, or a watering can. I wouldn't be
>surprised to see it come back next year though - and maybe even in a couple
>months, this year.
Painting it on works just fine. It's the preferred method if the
plants around the ones you want to kill are valuable.
On 4/14/2015 4:25 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Bill" wrote:
>
>
>> I was thinking of this tool, but am not confident it won't just bend
>> when I twist it.
>> There's another one out there too that I'm curious whether someone
>> might recommend.
>>
>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hound-Dog-Stand-Up-Garden-Tiller-HDP31/202605474
>>
>> Thank you for your help (and tolerance)!
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Strictly a toy.
>
> You need the tool my dad had and last used 60+ years ago.
>
> Think of a 4 tine pitch fork with a D handle.
>
> Now think of the tines as being about 3/4"-7/8" wide and 1/8" thick.
> That's describes that beast from memory.
>
> As a teenager, I grew to hate that tool, but it worked.
>
>
>
> Lew
>
>
I know what you are talking about but it is not a pitch fork. A pitch
fork is the tool that is on the photo of Ma And Paw Kettle. Typically
has 3 or more tines and small in diameter, light weight, for "Pitching"
hay.
https://www.google.com/search?q=maw+and+paw+kettle&rlz=1C1CHUE_enUS575US575&espv=2&biw=1536&bih=783&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=TnouVemDLJHqoATo3YCIBg&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAw#imgdii=AsbcBpeLU3QbPM%3A%3BAsbcBpeLU3QbPM%3A%3BO-cBnDb5wJ3NHM%3A&imgrc=AsbcBpeLU3QbPM%253A%3BqZaYWztrPhk1vM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.thedailysheeple.com%252Fwp-content%252Fuploads%252F2014%252F09%252Fglobal-ID-ma-and-pa-kettle.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.thedailysheeple.com%252Fdhs-wants-to-tag-us-before-they-bag-us-the-enhanced-drivers-license_092014%252Fglobal-id-ma-and-pa-kettle%3B200%3B238
Spade-(i)n-fork. About the size of a D handle shovel but has 4 or 5 tines
that are flat or diamond shaped. It is used to dig potatoes and other
crops - used to turn and break up soil.
Martin
On 4/15/2015 11:41 AM, JAS wrote:
>
>> I know what you are talking about but it is not a pitch fork. A pitch
>> fork is the tool that is on the photo of Ma And Paw Kettle. Typically
>> has 3 or more tines and small in diameter, light weight, for "Pitching"
>> hay.
>
> Potato fork
>