I have about 180bf of Shagbark Hickory (ten 8/4 boards, 9 feet long by 12"
wide) that I need to get surfaced, but I seem to have misplaced my 12" jointer,
and this little 6" jobbie just ain't gonna be of much help. Normally when I'm
faced with the initial face-jointing of boards wider than my jointer I break
out the jack planes and the No. 8 Bailey and go to town, and usually have a
good time doing it. But with a giant stack of harder-than-nails Hickory? I
don't think so. I'd look like Popeye by the time I got done. I know that some
of you fart smellers forgo the jointer altogether and use the planer instead,
and since I have a nice big 15" Grizzly that eats Hickory for lunch I figure
it's time for me to build a sled. Any favorite designs? I know I could just
screw two straight and true tubafours to either side of the boards and run that
through, but I rather not run screws into the wood if I can help it. Side
rails on a plywood base with pointy setscrews locking the boards in place?
What about adjustability? I'd rather not build a fancy sled if it can't be
used on boards of varying widths. Any and all opinions welcome.
--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 2/20/2012 8:26 AM, dpb wrote:
> On 2/20/2012 6:53 AM, Leon wrote:
> ...
>
>> Have you actually done that, adjustable screws instead of shims? Seems
>> every thing would need to be readjusted when you removed the twisted
>> board at each screw location so that you could turn the screws.
>
> Huh? It only takes a few (2-3) and a couple tries.
>
> But, admittedly, I've only done it at all a half-dozen times or so in 40
> years--generally can get by w/o the sled at all and run the material
> through w/o compressing it and let the planer take care of it on it's own.
>
> So, the time spent adjusting hasn't been much of a loss, overall.. :)
A package of wood "shims" from the BORG are the ideal solution, IME.
They can be accurately put in place in seconds, infinitely adjustable
with no measuring, turning, screwing, can be taped in place with blue
tape if need be in less time than it takes to say "jack robinson", and
if they should ever hit the planer knifes for some unlikely reason ...
they're "wood".
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
On 2/19/2012 8:59 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
> place? What about adjustability? I'd rather not build a fancy sled if it
> can't be used on boards of varying widths. Any and all opinions welcome.
I use the kiss principle:
http://e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm
Nothing fancy ... just scroll down to planer jig. <This was an unusual
case, so most of what you see is not normally necessary in a planer jig>.
In this case the unusually long leading and trailing "stops" were to
insure there was no snipe on the already fabricated doors I was planing
(and to hold the doors tightly to insure they stayed over the carefully
placed shims, and not slip during the trip through the planer).
... just a stop on the trailing edge is all that is normally
necessary, unless you want to incorporate it into an anti-snipe device
on some planers.
Just make sure the sled is "flat". :)
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
Steve Turner <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 2/19/2012 10:23 AM, Gerald Ross wrote:
>> For this I usually just use the planer taking very light cuts to
>> lessen downward pressure, and flipping the board over between cuts.
>> Not sure what a sled would do differently, unless you had cupping and
>> support for the cup built into the sled. A twist would be very hard
>> to remove this way, though.
>
> Hickory ain't the most stable stuff in the world, and these boards
> have plenty of bow and twist. I've done a bit of what you suggest on
> the eleventh board, but I really need some way to keep the boards
> stable during the entire trip through the planer.
>
I saw a jig in an older issue of WOOD magazine that might help. What it
was basically was a frame for the router to sit on and move forwards and
backwards and left and right. The router would then be used for truing
the board.
Construction was basically two parallel boards, that a cross piece could
move forwards and backwards on, and that cross piece had a slot that the
router and bushing/bearing moved in.
I imagine using this jig would take more time than using the planer, but
it might be useful on a twisted or particular troublesome board.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
"Steve Turner" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
On 02/20/2012 10:04 AM, CW wrote:
>
>
> "dpb" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> generally can get by w/o the sled at all and run the material
> through w/o compressing it and let the planer take care of it on it's own.
>
> Haven't you been reading the group here? That's impossible. Just ask
> them, they'll tell you. :)
Uh huh, and since these boards are 9 feet long and my planer tables are
"only" about 4, that does nothing to get rid of any bow in the boards,
or any twist either, since most twist is at its worst towards the ends
of the boards. And did I also mention that out of these 8/4
(approximately 2" thick) boards I'd kinda LIKE to get something a little
thicker than 1/2", which is what I'd probably end up with if I used your
method to get rid of all bow and twist?
============================================================================
If you did it, it probably wouldn't work. On the other hand, I would have no
problem with it.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
"Steve Turner" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
I have about 180bf of Shagbark Hickory (ten 8/4 boards, 9 feet long by 12"
wide) that I need to get surfaced, but I seem to have misplaced my 12"
jointer,
and this little 6" jobbie just ain't gonna be of much help. Normally when
I'm
faced with the initial face-jointing of boards wider than my jointer I break
out the jack planes and the No. 8 Bailey and go to town, and usually have a
good time doing it. But with a giant stack of harder-than-nails Hickory? I
don't think so. I'd look like Popeye by the time I got done. I know that
some
of you fart smellers forgo the jointer altogether and use the planer
instead,
and since I have a nice big 15" Grizzly that eats Hickory for lunch I figure
it's time for me to build a sled. Any favorite designs? I know I could
just
screw two straight and true tubafours to either side of the boards and run
that
through, but I rather not run screws into the wood if I can help it. Side
rails on a plywood base with pointy setscrews locking the boards in place?
What about adjustability? I'd rather not build a fancy sled if it can't be
used on boards of varying widths. Any and all opinions welcome.
====================================================================
I'd just use the planer myself but everybody tells me that that is
impossible so I will suggest you get a hand plane with a tail on it.
--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 2/19/2012 8:59 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
> I have about 180bf of Shagbark Hickory (ten 8/4 boards, 9 feet long by
> 12" wide) that I need to get surfaced, but I seem to have misplaced my
> 12" jointer, and this little 6" jobbie just ain't gonna be of much help.
> Normally when I'm faced with the initial face-jointing of boards wider
> than my jointer I break out the jack planes and the No. 8 Bailey and go
> to town, and usually have a good time doing it. But with a giant stack
> of harder-than-nails Hickory? I don't think so. I'd look like Popeye by
> the time I got done. I know that some of you fart smellers forgo the
> jointer altogether and use the planer instead, and since I have a nice
> big 15" Grizzly that eats Hickory for lunch I figure it's time for me to
> build a sled. Any favorite designs? I know I could just screw two
> straight and true tubafours to either side of the boards and run that
> through, but I rather not run screws into the wood if I can help it.
> Side rails on a plywood base with pointy setscrews locking the boards in
> place? What about adjustability? I'd rather not build a fancy sled if it
> can't be used on boards of varying widths. Any and all opinions welcome.
>
Simpelest solution, do they need to be 9" long, cut them in half and
then run them through the jointer.
If they are relatively flat you can probably get away with simply
running them through the planer as is.
Or Fine Woodworking had a plan for a sled, sorta complicated and works
great except it gets heavy considering you are literally running the
equivalent of 3stacked boards through at the same time.
I would be happy to e-mail you the plans in pdf.
Steve Turner wrote:
> I have about 180bf of Shagbark Hickory (ten 8/4 boards, 9 feet long by 12"
> wide) that I need to get surfaced, but I seem to have misplaced my 12" jointer,
> and this little 6" jobbie just ain't gonna be of much help. Normally when I'm
> faced with the initial face-jointing of boards wider than my jointer I break
> out the jack planes and the No. 8 Bailey and go to town, and usually have a
> good time doing it. But with a giant stack of harder-than-nails Hickory? I
> don't think so. I'd look like Popeye by the time I got done. I know that some
> of you fart smellers forgo the jointer altogether and use the planer instead,
> and since I have a nice big 15" Grizzly that eats Hickory for lunch I figure
> it's time for me to build a sled. Any favorite designs? I know I could just
> screw two straight and true tubafours to either side of the boards and run that
> through, but I rather not run screws into the wood if I can help it. Side
> rails on a plywood base with pointy setscrews locking the boards in place?
> What about adjustability? I'd rather not build a fancy sled if it can't be
> used on boards of varying widths. Any and all opinions welcome.
>
For this I usually just use the planer taking very light cuts to
lessen downward pressure, and flipping the board over between cuts.
Not sure what a sled would do differently, unless you had cupping and
support for the cup built into the sled. A twist would be very hard to
remove this way, though.
--
Gerald Ross
Put on your seatbelt. I wanna try
something.
"dpb" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
generally can get by w/o the sled at all and run the material
through w/o compressing it and let the planer take care of it on it's own.
Haven't you been reading the group here? That's impossible. Just ask them,
they'll tell you. :)
Swingman wrote:
> On 2/20/2012 8:26 AM, dpb wrote:
>> On 2/20/2012 6:53 AM, Leon wrote:
>> ...
>>
>>> Have you actually done that, adjustable screws instead of shims? Seems
>>> every thing would need to be readjusted when you removed the twisted
>>> board at each screw location so that you could turn the screws.
>>
>> Huh? It only takes a few (2-3) and a couple tries.
>>
>> But, admittedly, I've only done it at all a half-dozen times or so in 40
>> years--generally can get by w/o the sled at all and run the material
>> through w/o compressing it and let the planer take care of it on it's own.
>>
>> So, the time spent adjusting hasn't been much of a loss, overall.. :)
>
> A package of wood "shims" from the BORG are the ideal solution, IME.
> They can be accurately put in place in seconds, infinitely adjustable
> with no measuring, turning, screwing, can be taped in place with blue
> tape if need be in less time than it takes to say "jack robinson", and
> if they should ever hit the planer knifes for some unlikely reason ...
> they're "wood".
>
Long ago and far away I saw a planer kick a board back with such force
it went through a
paneled door and out in the yard. We had been lectured not to be
behind a board going
through a planer or table saw, so there were no injuries. But there
were a few white-faced
kids and one white-faced shop teacher.
That was a heavy free-standing planer with a real motor and real
knives, but accidents happen. I would not want something like that
happen and be left with a board with screws
in it rattling around inside MY planer.
--
Gerald Ross
I hate it when that happens.
On 2/19/2012 7:40 PM, dpb wrote:
> On 2/19/2012 6:51 PM, Morgans wrote:
>> "Steve Turner" wrote
> ...
>
>> but I really need some way to keep the boards stable during the entire
>> trip
>> through the planer.
>> ************************************************
>> How about using a little double sided tape to fasten some shims to the
>> board in a few key places?
> ...
>
> Instead of shims, adjustable-height screws into the sled base where
> needed at appropriate height(s) is my choice if it's a nonuniform twist
> instead of trying to cut shim stock to thickness...
>
> --
Have you actually done that, adjustable screws instead of shims? Seems
every thing would need to be readjusted when you removed the twisted
board at each screw location so that you could turn the screws.
"Steve Turner" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
On 2/20/2012 4:26 PM, CW wrote:
>
>
> "Steve Turner" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> On 02/20/2012 10:04 AM, CW wrote:
>>
>>
>> "dpb" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>>
>> generally can get by w/o the sled at all and run the material
>> through w/o compressing it and let the planer take care of it on it's
>> own.
>>
>> Haven't you been reading the group here? That's impossible. Just ask
>> them, they'll tell you. :)
>
> Uh huh, and since these boards are 9 feet long and my planer tables are
> "only" about 4, that does nothing to get rid of any bow in the boards,
> or any twist either, since most twist is at its worst towards the ends
> of the boards. And did I also mention that out of these 8/4
> (approximately 2" thick) boards I'd kinda LIKE to get something a little
> thicker than 1/2", which is what I'd probably end up with if I used your
> method to get rid of all bow and twist?
> ============================================================================
> If you did it, it probably wouldn't work. On the other hand, I would have
> no
> problem with it.
Pompous much? As described above, "w/o the sled at all and run the material
through w/o compressing it and let the planer take care of it on it's (sic)
own."... Notice there is no mention of any "pre" planing (either with hand
planes or your plane with a "tail" on it) such that you start with a
reasonably
flat reference surface to lay on the planer table. Assuming that approach,
nothing but heavy-assed 80lb boards that are crazy-warped and bowed and a
3.5'
planer table, you're saying you could get the boards flat and I couldn't?
Well
come on over and show me how it's done then smart guy! I'm more than
willing
to be enlightened.
=========================================================================
You are the one that said you couldn't do it. I just agreed with you. I know
I can.
On 2/19/2012 10:23 AM, Gerald Ross wrote:
> Steve Turner wrote:
>> I have about 180bf of Shagbark Hickory (ten 8/4 boards, 9 feet long by 12"
>> wide) that I need to get surfaced, but I seem to have misplaced my 12" jointer,
>> and this little 6" jobbie just ain't gonna be of much help. Normally when I'm
>> faced with the initial face-jointing of boards wider than my jointer I break
>> out the jack planes and the No. 8 Bailey and go to town, and usually have a
>> good time doing it. But with a giant stack of harder-than-nails Hickory? I
>> don't think so. I'd look like Popeye by the time I got done. I know that some
>> of you fart smellers forgo the jointer altogether and use the planer instead,
>> and since I have a nice big 15" Grizzly that eats Hickory for lunch I figure
>> it's time for me to build a sled. Any favorite designs? I know I could just
>> screw two straight and true tubafours to either side of the boards and run that
>> through, but I rather not run screws into the wood if I can help it. Side
>> rails on a plywood base with pointy setscrews locking the boards in place?
>> What about adjustability? I'd rather not build a fancy sled if it can't be
>> used on boards of varying widths. Any and all opinions welcome.
>>
> For this I usually just use the planer taking very light cuts to lessen
> downward pressure, and flipping the board over between cuts. Not sure what a
> sled would do differently, unless you had cupping and support for the cup built
> into the sled. A twist would be very hard to remove this way, though.
Hickory ain't the most stable stuff in the world, and these boards have plenty
of bow and twist. I've done a bit of what you suggest on the eleventh board,
but I really need some way to keep the boards stable during the entire trip
through the planer.
--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 2/19/2012 9:51 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 2/19/2012 8:59 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
>> I have about 180bf of Shagbark Hickory (ten 8/4 boards, 9 feet long by
>> 12" wide) that I need to get surfaced, but I seem to have misplaced my
>> 12" jointer, and this little 6" jobbie just ain't gonna be of much help.
>> Normally when I'm faced with the initial face-jointing of boards wider
>> than my jointer I break out the jack planes and the No. 8 Bailey and go
>> to town, and usually have a good time doing it. But with a giant stack
>> of harder-than-nails Hickory? I don't think so. I'd look like Popeye by
>> the time I got done. I know that some of you fart smellers forgo the
>> jointer altogether and use the planer instead, and since I have a nice
>> big 15" Grizzly that eats Hickory for lunch I figure it's time for me to
>> build a sled. Any favorite designs? I know I could just screw two
>> straight and true tubafours to either side of the boards and run that
>> through, but I rather not run screws into the wood if I can help it.
>> Side rails on a plywood base with pointy setscrews locking the boards in
>> place? What about adjustability? I'd rather not build a fancy sled if it
>> can't be used on boards of varying widths. Any and all opinions welcome.
>>
>
> Simpelest solution, do they need to be 9" long, cut them in half and then run
> them through the jointer.
>
> If they are relatively flat you can probably get away with simply running them
> through the planer as is.
>
> Or Fine Woodworking had a plan for a sled, sorta complicated and works great
> except it gets heavy considering you are literally running the equivalent of
> 3stacked boards through at the same time.
>
> I would be happy to e-mail you the plans in pdf.
Sure Leon, I'd be willing to look at any plans you might have. Just follow the
instructions in my sig to get the correct email address (oh yeah, and remove
the trailing ".invalid").
And yes, I do want to keep the boards full length if possible. And no, they
can't really be considered "relatively flat". Pretty wild stuff, unfortunately.
--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
"Steve Turner" wrote
Hickory ain't the most stable stuff in the world, and these boards have
plenty
of bow and twist. I've done a bit of what you suggest on the eleventh
board,
but I really need some way to keep the boards stable during the entire trip
through the planer.
************************************************
How about using a little double sided tape to fasten some shims to the board
in a few key places?
Works for me.
-- Jim in NC
On 2/19/2012 6:51 PM, Morgans wrote:
> "Steve Turner" wrote
...
> but I really need some way to keep the boards stable during the entire trip
> through the planer.
> ************************************************
> How about using a little double sided tape to fasten some shims to the
> board in a few key places?
...
Instead of shims, adjustable-height screws into the sled base where
needed at appropriate height(s) is my choice if it's a nonuniform twist
instead of trying to cut shim stock to thickness...
--
On 2/20/2012 6:53 AM, Leon wrote:
...
> Have you actually done that, adjustable screws instead of shims? Seems
> every thing would need to be readjusted when you removed the twisted
> board at each screw location so that you could turn the screws.
Huh? It only takes a few (2-3) and a couple tries.
But, admittedly, I've only done it at all a half-dozen times or so in 40
years--generally can get by w/o the sled at all and run the material
through w/o compressing it and let the planer take care of it on it's own.
So, the time spent adjusting hasn't been much of a loss, overall.. :)
--
On 02/20/2012 10:04 AM, CW wrote:
>
>
> "dpb" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> generally can get by w/o the sled at all and run the material
> through w/o compressing it and let the planer take care of it on it's own.
>
> Haven't you been reading the group here? That's impossible. Just ask
> them, they'll tell you. :)
Uh huh, and since these boards are 9 feet long and my planer tables are
"only" about 4, that does nothing to get rid of any bow in the boards,
or any twist either, since most twist is at its worst towards the ends
of the boards. And did I also mention that out of these 8/4
(approximately 2" thick) boards I'd kinda LIKE to get something a little
thicker than 1/2", which is what I'd probably end up with if I used your
method to get rid of all bow and twist?
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 2/20/2012 4:26 PM, CW wrote:
>
>
> "Steve Turner" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> On 02/20/2012 10:04 AM, CW wrote:
>>
>>
>> "dpb" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>>
>> generally can get by w/o the sled at all and run the material
>> through w/o compressing it and let the planer take care of it on it's own.
>>
>> Haven't you been reading the group here? That's impossible. Just ask
>> them, they'll tell you. :)
>
> Uh huh, and since these boards are 9 feet long and my planer tables are
> "only" about 4, that does nothing to get rid of any bow in the boards,
> or any twist either, since most twist is at its worst towards the ends
> of the boards. And did I also mention that out of these 8/4
> (approximately 2" thick) boards I'd kinda LIKE to get something a little
> thicker than 1/2", which is what I'd probably end up with if I used your
> method to get rid of all bow and twist?
> ============================================================================
> If you did it, it probably wouldn't work. On the other hand, I would have no
> problem with it.
Pompous much? As described above, "w/o the sled at all and run the material
through w/o compressing it and let the planer take care of it on it's (sic)
own."... Notice there is no mention of any "pre" planing (either with hand
planes or your plane with a "tail" on it) such that you start with a reasonably
flat reference surface to lay on the planer table. Assuming that approach,
nothing but heavy-assed 80lb boards that are crazy-warped and bowed and a 3.5'
planer table, you're saying you could get the boards flat and I couldn't? Well
come on over and show me how it's done then smart guy! I'm more than willing
to be enlightened.
--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 2/21/2012 6:19 AM, CW wrote:
>
>
> "Steve Turner" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> On 2/20/2012 4:26 PM, CW wrote:
>>
>>
>> "Steve Turner" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>>
>> On 02/20/2012 10:04 AM, CW wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> "dpb" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>> generally can get by w/o the sled at all and run the material
>>> through w/o compressing it and let the planer take care of it on it's own.
>>>
>>> Haven't you been reading the group here? That's impossible. Just ask
>>> them, they'll tell you. :)
>>
>> Uh huh, and since these boards are 9 feet long and my planer tables are
>> "only" about 4, that does nothing to get rid of any bow in the boards,
>> or any twist either, since most twist is at its worst towards the ends
>> of the boards. And did I also mention that out of these 8/4
>> (approximately 2" thick) boards I'd kinda LIKE to get something a little
>> thicker than 1/2", which is what I'd probably end up with if I used your
>> method to get rid of all bow and twist?
>> ============================================================================
>> If you did it, it probably wouldn't work. On the other hand, I would have no
>> problem with it.
>
> Pompous much? As described above, "w/o the sled at all and run the material
> through w/o compressing it and let the planer take care of it on it's (sic)
> own."... Notice there is no mention of any "pre" planing (either with hand
> planes or your plane with a "tail" on it) such that you start with a reasonably
> flat reference surface to lay on the planer table. Assuming that approach,
> nothing but heavy-assed 80lb boards that are crazy-warped and bowed and a 3.5'
> planer table, you're saying you could get the boards flat and I couldn't? Well
> come on over and show me how it's done then smart guy! I'm more than willing
> to be enlightened.
> =========================================================================
> You are the one that said you couldn't do it. I just agreed with you. I know I
> can.
Your persistent avoidance of the particulars is making you look like a
wise-ass. I never said I couldn't do it (as I explained, by using hand planes
to get a reasonably flat reference surface on one side to lay face-down on the
planar table), I just said that it was a hell of a lot of work and I didn't
WANT to do it. You (with some help from "dpb") are continually implying that
you can do it WITHOUT any initial rough flattening of one side (though I
suspect you're using your hand-held power planer that you've implied you own),
and by refusing to explain yourself further you are only being contentious and
are not contributing anything to the conversation.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 2/21/2012 9:16 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
CW wrote:
>> You are the one that said you couldn't do it. I just agreed with you.
>> I know I
>> can.
>
> Your persistent avoidance of the particulars is making you look like a
> wise-ass.
We've been here before. He goes on an on about being able to do it, but
never says how. Almost no one else can do it, and I can't do it either,
and I tried. It's not easy even with a sled. Twist is a bitch and is
mostly fire wood unless you want to make a big effort to get a little
wood out of the mess.
I never said I couldn't do it (as I explained, by using hand
> planes to get a reasonably flat reference surface on one side to lay
> face-down on the planar table), I just said that it was a hell of a lot
> of work and I didn't WANT to do it.
That's how about everyone but CW see's it, and he's too freaking nasty
to tell anyone his secret, so I figure he's full of it.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com