So,
I've been making circular picture frames for wife.com and I'm trying to
perfect the technique.
I'm using various types of wood, primarily oak, walnut, and alder. These are
about 1" thick, 8" ID and 10" OD.
Basically I make a hollow octagon out of strips of 5/4 wood, gluing the end
grain together. These have the grain oriented such that it 'flows' around the
circle. I then resaw this ring and overlap the two pieces so that the glue
joints overlap 50%. Nice and strong without any joint failures, coolio!
The problem comes when I turn the octagon into a true circle. I made a jig
for my router table that is basically a 1/2" post on a flat board that can be
clamped to the table (think of a jig used on a bandsaw for the same purpose).
I then attach a piece of hardboard with a hole in the center that allows me
to pivot the unit on the post, making perfect circular cuts (and all the
grooves/dados required to hold the artwork).
Anyhoo, the problem comes up when I'm routing the inside and outside
surfaces. Given that the grain is alternating both 'uphill' and 'downhill',
routing in the usual direction (upcut) results in lots of chip out when the
bit decides to split out sections of wood.
Simple solution is to vary the feed (rotation) direction to avoid this. The
best solution that actually produces a perfect, split free surface is to do a
climb cut all the way around. Aside from the white knuckle grip I need to
avoid the setup going into 'self feeding' mode, I can live with it but would
prefer something safer.
What I want to try is instead of the grain flowing around the circle, I want
to cut the octagon sections so that the grain follows the radius of the
circle. What this changes is I end up with end grain exposed along the
inner/outer surfaces. Advantages would be I can eliminate (I hope) the need
to do the overlapping since the glue joints are (mostly) long grain against
long grain. I'm hoping that since I'll be routing end grain to turn the
octagon into a circle, I can revert back to routing in the normal feed
direction and avoid the climb cut scare factor.
I've routed miles of end grain, but never something that is entirely end
grain.
Any tips (i.e. depth of cut, bit type, speeds/feed rates)?
I want to avoid any grain pullout or other damage that would require
patching, excessive sanding, etc
I'm using a two flute spiral bit if that matters.
TIA
-BR
"I've routed miles of end grain, but never something that is entirely
end
grain.
Any tips (i.e. depth of cut, bit type, speeds/feed rates)? "
********************************************************************************
Hand fed on the RT? Guess & x golly.
I would hand rout (in climb) and in thickness stages.
An increment of depth can always be chosen such that there will be no
tear out.
Might be a 1/32, might be an 1/8. Species, cutter, feed rate
dependent.
A climb cut is key. A light climb cut poses very little risk.
There is risk, however, if you don't have control of the router.
If you tip the router you may be cutting a full thickness of new wood
and they could be a problem.
Use a plunger, collar and new straight cutter; would not sweat flute
design.
**********************************
Routs all day long.
http://www.patwarner.com
See binaries for compass plane.
On 2/20/2012 9:49 AM, Bruce wrote:
> On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 13:11:46 -0700, Swingman wrote
> (in article<[email protected]>):
>
>> On 2/19/2012 1:47 PM, Bruce wrote:
>>> On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 09:24:53 -0700, Swingman wrote
>>
>>>> Just in the (unlikely) event you don't know Pat Warner, his post on your
>>>> question is the definitive, authoritative answer.
>>>>
>>>> Take it as gospel and you won't go wrong ... :)
>>>
>>> I hear ya!
>>>
>>> Pat's website inspired me to build my first fence/router table.
>>>
>>>
>>> I went ahead and tried my idea, went very well indeed. Small incremental
>>> cuts
>>> (1/8") followed by a full cut at about 1/32" depth seemd to be optimal.
>>>
>>> A normal (not a climb cut) on the table with my jig went smooth as butta,
>>> very minimal tear out. I'll post some pics on ABPW tomorrow.
>>>
>>> By arranging the octagon so the end grain is on the perimeter, I can
>>> eliminate a lot of hassle. I'll probably still resaw the frame and reglue it
>>> with some offset to avoid any wood defects from causing a split.
>>
>>
>> Similar to the way I had to do the top and bottom trim on this rounded
>> corner (18"radius) "L" shaped desk (picture is during installation and
>> prior to finishing).
>>
>>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopSGCurvedWallDesk20
>
>> 1102#5669722594456711506
>>
>
> I suppose you considered a bent lamination or steam bending (and then winced
> at the thought of the time and hassle for a few pieces of trim...)?
>
>
>
>
>
>> The curved pieces were cut from one wider board, and even though I
>> selected the grain carefully, it is still impossible not to have an end
>> grain routing problem in one at least area of the curve.
>>
>> Actually, and from previous experiences, I had routed out a couple of
>> extra trim pieces, but didn't need them.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
On 2/20/2012 9:46 AM, Bruce wrote:
> On Mon, 20 Feb 2012 07:51:02 -0700, Leon wrote
> (in article<[email protected]>):
>
>> Snip
>>
>>
>> I just looked at your pictures of what you are doing, Looks like the
>> perfect job for a disk sander with a circle jig.
>>
>
> I agree (if I had one). It wouldn't touch the inside but it would be perfect
> for the OD cleanup.
> I did try a sanding drum on the drill press with a similar jig and that
> worked sorta ok (got a small groove where the drum first makes contact).
>
> A disk sander is on my wish list, but not anytime soon due to limited space,
> etc. I might consider a sanding disk 'blade' for the table saw however.
> Making a jig to allow for fine tuned feeding would be somewhat complex but
> worth it since I will probably be making dozens of these frames in various
> sizes over the next year.
>
> -BR
>
Yeah, I forgot about the inside.... ;~(
Bruce <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> A disk sander is on my wish list, but not anytime soon due to limited
> space, etc. I might consider a sanding disk 'blade' for the table saw
> however. Making a jig to allow for fine tuned feeding would be
> somewhat complex but worth it since I will probably be making dozens
> of these frames in various sizes over the next year.
>
> -BR
>
Do you have a belt sander? That would work just as well for the outside.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
"Bruce" wrote
> I just looked at your pictures of what you are doing, Looks like
> the
>> perfect job for a disk sander with a circle jig.
>>
>
> I agree (if I had one). It wouldn't touch the inside but it would be
> perfect
> for the OD cleanup.
---------------------------
Do you have access to a spindle sander for a test run?
Lew
"Bruce" wrote
> I see what you are thinking....
>
> The ID usually isn't much of a problem since for most purposes it is
> hidden
> away, however this brings up a _need_ for one of those bench top
> drum sanders
> I've been eyeing. The drill press sanding drums are ok for many
> things, but
> the utility of a dedicated unit would be hard to beat.
--------------------------------------
For less than $100, problem solved.
A 2" oscillating sanding spindle will make you happy.
Lew
On Mon, 20 Feb 2012 16:59:01 -0700, Lew Hodgett wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
>
> "Bruce" wrote
>> I just looked at your pictures of what you are doing, Looks like
>> the
>>> perfect job for a disk sander with a circle jig.
>>>
>>
>> I agree (if I had one). It wouldn't touch the inside but it would be
>> perfect
>> for the OD cleanup.
> ---------------------------
> Do you have access to a spindle sander for a test run?
I see what you are thinking....
The ID usually isn't much of a problem since for most purposes it is hidden
away, however this brings up a _need_ for one of those bench top drum sanders
I've been eyeing. The drill press sanding drums are ok for many things, but
the utility of a dedicated unit would be hard to beat.
-BR
>
> Lew
>
>
>
On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 13:11:46 -0700, Swingman wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
> On 2/19/2012 1:47 PM, Bruce wrote:
>> On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 09:24:53 -0700, Swingman wrote
>
>>> Just in the (unlikely) event you don't know Pat Warner, his post on your
>>> question is the definitive, authoritative answer.
>>>
>>> Take it as gospel and you won't go wrong ... :)
>>
>> I hear ya!
>>
>> Pat's website inspired me to build my first fence/router table.
>>
>>
>> I went ahead and tried my idea, went very well indeed. Small incremental
>> cuts
>> (1/8") followed by a full cut at about 1/32" depth seemd to be optimal.
>>
>> A normal (not a climb cut) on the table with my jig went smooth as butta,
>> very minimal tear out. I'll post some pics on ABPW tomorrow.
>>
>> By arranging the octagon so the end grain is on the perimeter, I can
>> eliminate a lot of hassle. I'll probably still resaw the frame and reglue it
>> with some offset to avoid any wood defects from causing a split.
>
>
> Similar to the way I had to do the top and bottom trim on this rounded
> corner (18"radius) "L" shaped desk (picture is during installation and
> prior to finishing).
>
>
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopSGCurvedWallDesk20
> 1102#5669722594456711506
>
I suppose you considered a bent lamination or steam bending (and then winced
at the thought of the time and hassle for a few pieces of trim...)?
> The curved pieces were cut from one wider board, and even though I
> selected the grain carefully, it is still impossible not to have an end
> grain routing problem in one at least area of the curve.
>
> Actually, and from previous experiences, I had routed out a couple of
> extra trim pieces, but didn't need them.
>
>
>
On Mon, 20 Feb 2012 07:51:02 -0700, Leon wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
> Snip
>
>
> I just looked at your pictures of what you are doing, Looks like the
> perfect job for a disk sander with a circle jig.
>
I agree (if I had one). It wouldn't touch the inside but it would be perfect
for the OD cleanup.
I did try a sanding drum on the drill press with a similar jig and that
worked sorta ok (got a small groove where the drum first makes contact).
A disk sander is on my wish list, but not anytime soon due to limited space,
etc. I might consider a sanding disk 'blade' for the table saw however.
Making a jig to allow for fine tuned feeding would be somewhat complex but
worth it since I will probably be making dozens of these frames in various
sizes over the next year.
-BR
What kind of bit are you using.
I suggest using a spiral bit, the shearing forces usually do a better
job than a straight bit.
You might need to make a coarse pass then a finish pass (very light pass
1/32-1/16). In my experience spirals have done a good job doing this
work, where a straight bit just can't. And make sure you have good
backing using ply for your tearout. I would router from the top using a
downcut bit. I would screw the frame to the plywood by drilling holes in
the ply, then coming through the ply to the frame staying out of the
cutting zone.
On 2/19/2012 10:11 AM, Bruce wrote:
> So,
> I've been making circular picture frames for wife.com and I'm trying to
> perfect the technique.
> I'm using various types of wood, primarily oak, walnut, and alder. These are
> about 1" thick, 8" ID and 10" OD.
>
> Basically I make a hollow octagon out of strips of 5/4 wood, gluing the end
> grain together. These have the grain oriented such that it 'flows' around the
> circle. I then resaw this ring and overlap the two pieces so that the glue
> joints overlap 50%. Nice and strong without any joint failures, coolio!
>
> The problem comes when I turn the octagon into a true circle. I made a jig
> for my router table that is basically a 1/2" post on a flat board that can be
> clamped to the table (think of a jig used on a bandsaw for the same purpose).
> I then attach a piece of hardboard with a hole in the center that allows me
> to pivot the unit on the post, making perfect circular cuts (and all the
> grooves/dados required to hold the artwork).
>
> Anyhoo, the problem comes up when I'm routing the inside and outside
> surfaces. Given that the grain is alternating both 'uphill' and 'downhill',
> routing in the usual direction (upcut) results in lots of chip out when the
> bit decides to split out sections of wood.
> Simple solution is to vary the feed (rotation) direction to avoid this. The
> best solution that actually produces a perfect, split free surface is to do a
> climb cut all the way around. Aside from the white knuckle grip I need to
> avoid the setup going into 'self feeding' mode, I can live with it but would
> prefer something safer.
>
> What I want to try is instead of the grain flowing around the circle, I want
> to cut the octagon sections so that the grain follows the radius of the
> circle. What this changes is I end up with end grain exposed along the
> inner/outer surfaces. Advantages would be I can eliminate (I hope) the need
> to do the overlapping since the glue joints are (mostly) long grain against
> long grain. I'm hoping that since I'll be routing end grain to turn the
> octagon into a circle, I can revert back to routing in the normal feed
> direction and avoid the climb cut scare factor.
>
> I've routed miles of end grain, but never something that is entirely end
> grain.
> Any tips (i.e. depth of cut, bit type, speeds/feed rates)?
>
> I want to avoid any grain pullout or other damage that would require
> patching, excessive sanding, etc
>
> I'm using a two flute spiral bit if that matters.
>
> TIA
> -BR
>
On 2/19/2012 9:11 AM, Bruce wrote:
> I want to avoid any grain pullout or other damage that would require
> patching, excessive sanding, etc
>
> I'm using a two flute spiral bit if that matters.
Bruce,
Just in the (unlikely) event you don't know Pat Warner, his post on your
question is the definitive, authoritative answer.
Take it as gospel and you won't go wrong ... :)
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
On 2/20/2012 11:03 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
> So after seeing what you are doing, I like. I wish you had a shaper,
> reversible and would allow you to change direction with a different bit.
> But you probably don't
>
> Certainly bandsawing this would relieve the tearout. Cut through then
> glue back together.
>
> Next solution. Change from an upcut to a downcut in the problem area. It
> might work. The shear is slightly different direction. Not like actually
> reversing direction, but maybe shearing from top to bottom and switching
> from bottom to top might get you through.
>
> If that doesn't work. Try a sanding drum. I have a compass plane that
> would work well on that. Just set it up to do the inside change
> direction when hitting that bad boy area.
>
> Then setup for the outside and work on that. Great old time tool.
OR USE a spoke shave.
>
> On 2/20/2012 9:49 AM, Bruce wrote:
>> On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 13:11:46 -0700, Swingman wrote
>> (in article<[email protected]>):
>>
>>> On 2/19/2012 1:47 PM, Bruce wrote:
>>>> On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 09:24:53 -0700, Swingman wrote
>>>
>>>>> Just in the (unlikely) event you don't know Pat Warner, his post on
>>>>> your
>>>>> question is the definitive, authoritative answer.
>>>>>
>>>>> Take it as gospel and you won't go wrong ... :)
>>>>
>>>> I hear ya!
>>>>
>>>> Pat's website inspired me to build my first fence/router table.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I went ahead and tried my idea, went very well indeed. Small
>>>> incremental
>>>> cuts
>>>> (1/8") followed by a full cut at about 1/32" depth seemd to be optimal.
>>>>
>>>> A normal (not a climb cut) on the table with my jig went smooth as
>>>> butta,
>>>> very minimal tear out. I'll post some pics on ABPW tomorrow.
>>>>
>>>> By arranging the octagon so the end grain is on the perimeter, I can
>>>> eliminate a lot of hassle. I'll probably still resaw the frame and
>>>> reglue it
>>>> with some offset to avoid any wood defects from causing a split.
>>>
>>>
>>> Similar to the way I had to do the top and bottom trim on this rounded
>>> corner (18"radius) "L" shaped desk (picture is during installation and
>>> prior to finishing).
>>>
>>>
>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopSGCurvedWallDesk20
>>
>>
>>> 1102#5669722594456711506
>>>
>>
>> I suppose you considered a bent lamination or steam bending (and then
>> winced
>> at the thought of the time and hassle for a few pieces of trim...)?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> The curved pieces were cut from one wider board, and even though I
>>> selected the grain carefully, it is still impossible not to have an end
>>> grain routing problem in one at least area of the curve.
>>>
>>> Actually, and from previous experiences, I had routed out a couple of
>>> extra trim pieces, but didn't need them.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
On Mon, 20 Feb 2012 09:33:30 -0700, Puckdropper wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
> Bruce <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> A disk sander is on my wish list, but not anytime soon due to limited
>> space, etc. I might consider a sanding disk 'blade' for the table saw
>> however. Making a jig to allow for fine tuned feeding would be
>> somewhat complex but worth it since I will probably be making dozens
>> of these frames in various sizes over the next year.
>>
>> -BR
>>
>
> Do you have a belt sander? That would work just as well for the outside.
Yep, a PC mini belt sander. That would work in a pinch with some form of
fixture to hold it. That is one thing I like about the design of the Bosch(?)
is it has a flat back making it real easy to mount.
-BR
>
> Puckdropper
>
On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 08:11:40 -0700, Bruce wrote:
> The problem comes when I turn the octagon into a true circle.
How about using a circle cutting jig on the bandsaw (or even freehand if
you feel capable) to cut the circle just a mite oversize and then use the
router to finish up and cut the grooves?
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 09:43:39 -0700, Larry Blanchard wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
> On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 08:11:40 -0700, Bruce wrote:
>
>> The problem comes when I turn the octagon into a true circle.
>
> How about using a circle cutting jig on the bandsaw (or even freehand if
> you feel capable) to cut the circle just a mite oversize and then use the
> router to finish up and cut the grooves?
I thought about that and have a bandsaw jig ready. It would eliminate a lot
of wear 'n' tear on my expensive spiral bit, at least for the outside cut.
I'm being a wimp by trying walnut first, but since things went well I may
have a go at the oak and perhaps some hickory.
-BR
>
>
On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 08:28:12 -0700, tiredofspam wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
> What kind of bit are you using.
> I suggest using a spiral bit, the shearing forces usually do a better
> job than a straight bit.
Yes, a 1/2" spiral up cut.
>
> You might need to make a coarse pass then a finish pass (very light pass
> 1/32-1/16). In my experience spirals have done a good job doing this
> work, where a straight bit just can't.
I tried a straight cut at first, big mistake!
And make sure you have good
> backing using ply for your tearout. I would router from the top using a
> downcut bit. I would screw the frame to the plywood by drilling holes in
> the ply, then coming through the ply to the frame staying out of the
> cutting zone.
1/4" hardboard attached with double sided tape holds exceptionally well. I
can (and do) sneak up on the cut depth in all cases. Usually I'll do the
rough sizing, move the jig into the bit by a small amount (1/16" or so), then
do a final pass. If I had a disk sander, I'd be tempted to do the final pass
with the same jig.
-BR
>
>
> On 2/19/2012 10:11 AM, Bruce wrote:
>> So,
>> I've been making circular picture frames for wife.com and I'm trying to
>> perfect the technique.
>> I'm using various types of wood, primarily oak, walnut, and alder. These are
>> about 1" thick, 8" ID and 10" OD.
>>
>> Basically I make a hollow octagon out of strips of 5/4 wood, gluing the end
>> grain together. These have the grain oriented such that it 'flows' around
>> the
>> circle. I then resaw this ring and overlap the two pieces so that the glue
>> joints overlap 50%. Nice and strong without any joint failures, coolio!
>>
>> The problem comes when I turn the octagon into a true circle. I made a jig
>> for my router table that is basically a 1/2" post on a flat board that can
>> be
>> clamped to the table (think of a jig used on a bandsaw for the same
>> purpose).
>> I then attach a piece of hardboard with a hole in the center that allows me
>> to pivot the unit on the post, making perfect circular cuts (and all the
>> grooves/dados required to hold the artwork).
>>
>> Anyhoo, the problem comes up when I'm routing the inside and outside
>> surfaces. Given that the grain is alternating both 'uphill' and 'downhill',
>> routing in the usual direction (upcut) results in lots of chip out when the
>> bit decides to split out sections of wood.
>> Simple solution is to vary the feed (rotation) direction to avoid this. The
>> best solution that actually produces a perfect, split free surface is to do
>> a
>> climb cut all the way around. Aside from the white knuckle grip I need to
>> avoid the setup going into 'self feeding' mode, I can live with it but would
>> prefer something safer.
>>
>> What I want to try is instead of the grain flowing around the circle, I want
>> to cut the octagon sections so that the grain follows the radius of the
>> circle. What this changes is I end up with end grain exposed along the
>> inner/outer surfaces. Advantages would be I can eliminate (I hope) the need
>> to do the overlapping since the glue joints are (mostly) long grain against
>> long grain. I'm hoping that since I'll be routing end grain to turn the
>> octagon into a circle, I can revert back to routing in the normal feed
>> direction and avoid the climb cut scare factor.
>>
>> I've routed miles of end grain, but never something that is entirely end
>> grain.
>> Any tips (i.e. depth of cut, bit type, speeds/feed rates)?
>>
>> I want to avoid any grain pullout or other damage that would require
>> patching, excessive sanding, etc
>>
>> I'm using a two flute spiral bit if that matters.
>>
>> TIA
>> -BR
>>
On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 09:24:53 -0700, Swingman wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
> On 2/19/2012 9:11 AM, Bruce wrote:
>
>> I want to avoid any grain pullout or other damage that would require
>> patching, excessive sanding, etc
>>
>> I'm using a two flute spiral bit if that matters.
>
> Bruce,
>
> Just in the (unlikely) event you don't know Pat Warner, his post on your
> question is the definitive, authoritative answer.
>
> Take it as gospel and you won't go wrong ... :)
I hear ya!
Pat's website inspired me to build my first fence/router table.
I went ahead and tried my idea, went very well indeed. Small incremental cuts
(1/8") followed by a full cut at about 1/32" depth seemd to be optimal.
A normal (not a climb cut) on the table with my jig went smooth as butta,
very minimal tear out. I'll post some pics on ABPW tomorrow.
By arranging the octagon so the end grain is on the perimeter, I can
eliminate a lot of hassle. I'll probably still resaw the frame and reglue it
with some offset to avoid any wood defects from causing a split.
-BR
>
>
On Mon, 20 Feb 2012 09:03:05 -0700, tiredofspam wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
> So after seeing what you are doing, I like. I wish you had a shaper,
> reversible and would allow you to change direction with a different bit.
> But you probably don't
Nope, just a router table with a 3HP Milwaukee. It does good though routing
scares me more than my table saw and jointer.
>
> Certainly bandsawing this would relieve the tearout. Cut through then
> glue back together.
You mean make two semi-circles?
That was one of my original approaches since I also wanted to 'trap' the
artwork inside a groove without needing a backer ring, but sanity prevailed
8^)
>
> Next solution. Change from an upcut to a downcut in the problem area. It
> might work. The shear is slightly different direction. Not like actually
> reversing direction, but maybe shearing from top to bottom and switching
> from bottom to top might get you through.
Interesting thought. I have both up and down cut bits.
>
> If that doesn't work. Try a sanding drum. I have a compass plane that
> would work well on that. Just set it up to do the inside change
> direction when hitting that bad boy area.
>
> Then setup for the outside and work on that. Great old time tool.
I see that on ABPW.
Nice! I have a LV spokeshave that I've been using for arches (Mission style
stuff). That plane would be a God send.
-BR
On 2/19/2012 1:47 PM, Bruce wrote:
> On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 09:24:53 -0700, Swingman wrote
>> Just in the (unlikely) event you don't know Pat Warner, his post on your
>> question is the definitive, authoritative answer.
>>
>> Take it as gospel and you won't go wrong ... :)
>
> I hear ya!
>
> Pat's website inspired me to build my first fence/router table.
>
>
> I went ahead and tried my idea, went very well indeed. Small incremental cuts
> (1/8") followed by a full cut at about 1/32" depth seemd to be optimal.
>
> A normal (not a climb cut) on the table with my jig went smooth as butta,
> very minimal tear out. I'll post some pics on ABPW tomorrow.
>
> By arranging the octagon so the end grain is on the perimeter, I can
> eliminate a lot of hassle. I'll probably still resaw the frame and reglue it
> with some offset to avoid any wood defects from causing a split.
Similar to the way I had to do the top and bottom trim on this rounded
corner (18"radius) "L" shaped desk (picture is during installation and
prior to finishing).
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopSGCurvedWallDesk201102#5669722594456711506
The curved pieces were cut from one wider board, and even though I
selected the grain carefully, it is still impossible not to have an end
grain routing problem in one at least area of the curve.
Actually, and from previous experiences, I had routed out a couple of
extra trim pieces, but didn't need them.
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 09:14:33 -0700, routerman wrote
(in article
<15eb84dc-089c-4ce0-80bf-8feade574bf6@k40g2000yqf.googlegroups.com>):
> "I've routed miles of end grain, but never something that is entirely
> end
> grain.
> Any tips (i.e. depth of cut, bit type, speeds/feed rates)? "
>
******************************************************************************
> **
> Hand fed on the RT? Guess & x golly.
This is on a jig, basically a 1/2" pin that the frame pivots on as I rotate
the frame against the bit. Plenty sturdy and secure.
> I would hand rout (in climb) and in thickness stages.
> An increment of depth can always be chosen such that there will be no
> tear out.
> Might be a 1/32, might be an 1/8. Species, cutter, feed rate
> dependent.
> A climb cut is key. A light climb cut poses very little risk.
So basically do as I was doing in the first place. I suppose I really just
need to try it and see how bad things tear out. Possibly get within a 1/16"
with a standard up cut (less scary), then do the final pass with shallow
climb cuts.
> There is risk, however, if you don't have control of the router.
> If you tip the router you may be cutting a full thickness of new wood
> and they could be a problem.
> Use a plunger, collar and new straight cutter; would not sweat flute
> design.
> **********************************
This is on a router table so tipping, etc, is not a problem. I doubt I'd have
the stones to try this with a handheld router!
-BR
> Routs all day long.
> http://www.patwarner.com
So after seeing what you are doing, I like. I wish you had a shaper,
reversible and would allow you to change direction with a different bit.
But you probably don't
Certainly bandsawing this would relieve the tearout. Cut through then
glue back together.
Next solution. Change from an upcut to a downcut in the problem area. It
might work. The shear is slightly different direction. Not like actually
reversing direction, but maybe shearing from top to bottom and switching
from bottom to top might get you through.
If that doesn't work. Try a sanding drum. I have a compass plane that
would work well on that. Just set it up to do the inside change
direction when hitting that bad boy area.
Then setup for the outside and work on that. Great old time tool.
On 2/20/2012 9:49 AM, Bruce wrote:
> On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 13:11:46 -0700, Swingman wrote
> (in article<[email protected]>):
>
>> On 2/19/2012 1:47 PM, Bruce wrote:
>>> On Sun, 19 Feb 2012 09:24:53 -0700, Swingman wrote
>>
>>>> Just in the (unlikely) event you don't know Pat Warner, his post on your
>>>> question is the definitive, authoritative answer.
>>>>
>>>> Take it as gospel and you won't go wrong ... :)
>>>
>>> I hear ya!
>>>
>>> Pat's website inspired me to build my first fence/router table.
>>>
>>>
>>> I went ahead and tried my idea, went very well indeed. Small incremental
>>> cuts
>>> (1/8") followed by a full cut at about 1/32" depth seemd to be optimal.
>>>
>>> A normal (not a climb cut) on the table with my jig went smooth as butta,
>>> very minimal tear out. I'll post some pics on ABPW tomorrow.
>>>
>>> By arranging the octagon so the end grain is on the perimeter, I can
>>> eliminate a lot of hassle. I'll probably still resaw the frame and reglue it
>>> with some offset to avoid any wood defects from causing a split.
>>
>>
>> Similar to the way I had to do the top and bottom trim on this rounded
>> corner (18"radius) "L" shaped desk (picture is during installation and
>> prior to finishing).
>>
>>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopSGCurvedWallDesk20
>
>> 1102#5669722594456711506
>>
>
> I suppose you considered a bent lamination or steam bending (and then winced
> at the thought of the time and hassle for a few pieces of trim...)?
>
>
>
>
>
>> The curved pieces were cut from one wider board, and even though I
>> selected the grain carefully, it is still impossible not to have an end
>> grain routing problem in one at least area of the curve.
>>
>> Actually, and from previous experiences, I had routed out a couple of
>> extra trim pieces, but didn't need them.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
"Bruce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> So,
> I've been making circular picture frames for wife.com and I'm trying to
> Simple solution is to vary the feed (rotation) direction to avoid this.
> The
> best solution that actually produces a perfect, split free surface is to
> do a
> climb cut all the way around. Aside from the white knuckle grip I need to
> avoid the setup going into 'self feeding' mode, I can live with it but
> would
> prefer something safer.
This would seem to present an opportunity for an opportunist tool
designer/seller... a single-point power-feed that would allow climb cutting
elliptical and other non-straight items on shapers and router tables.
Anyone listening? ;~)
John