My Google SketchUp program prompted me to upgrade today. I use
the free version (non-pro). As a result, my DP baseboard model I
designed last weekend took on more of x-ray look. Its the "edges"
feature, that lets you choose whether you see them or not. Check it out
if you like. In my last version you couldn't see the wheels the same
way you do here:
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
There's probably other new features. I just thought I would mention the
new version. If you've been waiting to get on-board with
SketchUp, this might be a good chance! I've used (my dad's) T-square
before--and I like this better! For the time being at least, it's still
free. Watch a few tutorials and build a few boxes in minutes...then
build a house, with windows, doors, a fence, etc. After a dozen tries,
and perhaps a little reading, you can do it all in a minute (can't do
that with your T-square, no?). If you don't want to do it, don't let me
try to push you into anything--that was just my little motivational
talk! :) Have fun!
Bill
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> Jim, Didn't you say you made yours from 4by4s?
Nope, I have access to metal working stuff and welder. My TS wheels have an
angle iron base.
--
Jim in NC
Morgans wrote:
>
> I would extend the front and back deck boards 6" ( or what is
> necessary for the wheels to mount and turn 369 degrees)
Nah - I'd be good with just 360 degrees. I know that some like 369 degrees,
but I'm kind of old school on this thought...
> on each side
> and mount the wheels on the outside of the frame on the underside of
> the extended deck boards. My reasons are: 1.) You want to have the
> widest base possible while moving a top heavy beast like a drill
> press.
There is a point of diminishing returns. He's already over specing this
thing and wheels on the inside provide a lot of stability. At a point, more
is not really more.
> Picture getting it moving, and a wheel hits a cord or nail or
> block of wood on the floor. The DP stops suddenly, trying to tip it
> over.
Picture this - move your cords out of the way - it's much better for the
cords. Move it slowly - we don't need to be doing highway speeds here.
Ok - funny aside, he's got plenty of protection against that type of
occurrance.
2) When, not if, a wheel gets hung up on a nail or cord or
> scrap of wood,
Why does everybody say "when, not if"? Ya know what - I don't encounter
these problems. I use a little common sense and voila - when usually does
not occur. If when does occur, then it's mitigated by such things as moving
at a reasonable speed, stability that Bill has already over-designed in, and
a little forethought in what I'm doing. When does not always trump if.
> you want to be able to identify which wheel is
> blocked, and then be able to reach down and remove the obstruction. You
> can not do that if you can not see it, or reach it.
> Take my advice, or I guarantee you will regret it. Wait and see.
>
> Right, everyone?
Ummmmmm.... not so much.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Morgans" wrote:
> I would extend the front and back deck boards 6" ( or what is
> necessary for the wheels to mount and turn 369 degrees) on each
> side and mount the wheels on the outside of the frame on the
> underside of the extended deck boards. My reasons are: 1.) You want
> to have the widest base possible while moving a top heavy beast like
> a drill press. Picture getting it moving, and a wheel hits a cord
> or nail or block of wood on the floor. The DP stops suddenly,
> trying to tip it over. 2) When, not if, a wheel gets hung up on a
> nail or cord or scrap of wood, you want to be able to identify which
> wheel is blocked, and then be able to reach down and remove the
> obstruction. You can not do that if you can not see it, or reach
> it.
>
> Take my advice, or I guarantee you will regret it. Wait and see.
>
> Right, everyone?
-------------------------------
Given a two wheeled hand truck and a Come-A-Long to secure DP while
moving, who needs casters?
Lew
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> Given a two wheeled hand truck and a Come-A-Long to secure DP while
> moving, who needs casters?
I don't even resort to that, since mine is pretty darn stationary. It
would be more trouble than it is worth, if it were being moved often, IMHO.
--
Jim in NC
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> My Google SketchUp program prompted me to upgrade today. I use
> the free version (non-pro). As a result, my DP baseboard model I designed
> last weekend took on more of x-ray look. Its the "edges" feature, that
> lets you choose whether you see them or not. Check it out if you like.
> In my last version you couldn't see the wheels the same way you do here:
Not meaning to take the wind out of your sales here. ;~) That is indeed a
cool newish feature. I noticed that on the previous November release, IIRC.
It is more of a "true" hidden line feature now, how you would hand draw
isometrically.
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> There's probably other new features. I just thought I would mention the
> new version. If you've been waiting to get on-board with
> SketchUp, this might be a good chance! I've used (my dad's) T-square
> before--and I like this better! For the time being at least, it's still
> free. Watch a few tutorials and build a few boxes in minutes...then build
> a house, with windows, doors, a fence, etc. After a dozen tries, and
> perhaps a little reading, you can do it all in a minute (can't do that
> with your T-square, no?). If you don't want to do it, don't let me try to
> push you into anything--that was just my little motivational talk! :)
> Have fun!
>
> Bill
LOL, I dropped AutoCAD for Sketchup.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>> 2) When, not if, a wheel
>>> gets hung up on a nail or cord or scrap of wood, you want to be able to
>>> identify which wheel is blocked, and then be able to reach down and
>>> remove the obstruction. You can not do that if you can not see it, or
>>> reach it.
>>>
>>> Take my advice, or I guarantee you will regret it. Wait and see.
>>>
>>> Right, everyone?
>
> I used the Rockler mobile base kit with the wheels on the perimeter, Very
> stable when setting on the leveling screws.
Actually as far as mobility goes it really is not bad for moving from the
garage to a lift gate on a moving truck, back to the lift gateand back into
the new shop. Stable enough, Right Swingman?
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Morgans wrote:
>>
>> I would extend the front and back deck boards 6" ( or what is necessary
>> for the wheels to mount and turn 369 degrees) on each side and mount the
>> wheels on the outside of the frame on the underside of the extended deck
>> boards. My reasons are: 1.) You want to have the widest base possible
>> while moving a top heavy beast like a drill press. Picture getting it
>> moving, and a wheel hits a cord or nail or block of wood on the floor.
>> The DP stops suddenly, trying to tip it over.
>
> My thinking was that the lugs would still be there to keep it from tipping
> too far. My first design was more like you described, I think.
> I did, by the way, end up with 4" wheels (4 x $12.96 at Home Depot for
> anyone considering building their own), so maybe the problem you describe
> below will be less of a problem. I promise I will keep your advise in
> mind. It will not be too difficult to switch from one design to the other
> if I experience difficulties. I've already cut the wood.
>
> Bill
>
>
> 2) When, not if, a wheel
>> gets hung up on a nail or cord or scrap of wood, you want to be able to
>> identify which wheel is blocked, and then be able to reach down and
>> remove the obstruction. You can not do that if you can not see it, or
>> reach it.
>>
>> Take my advice, or I guarantee you will regret it. Wait and see.
>>
>> Right, everyone?
I used the Rockler mobile base kit with the wheels on the perimeter, Very
stable when setting on the leveling screws.
On 1/15/2011 10:23 AM, Leon wrote:
>> I used the Rockler mobile base kit with the wheels on the perimeter, Very
>> stable when setting on the leveling screws.
>
> Actually as far as mobility goes it really is not bad for moving from the
> garage to a lift gate on a moving truck, back to the lift gateand back into
> the new shop. Stable enough, Right Swingman?
Works like a charm. If I do say so myself, we're getting pretty damn
good at moving entire shops of heavy machinery with just two of us and
the lift on the back of a 14' box truck ...
This last time the only thing I was concerned with was your big Laguna
band saw ... It'd killed my soul to see that gorgeous piece of machinery
fall over!
I still cringe when I even consider the possibility.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 1/15/2011 10:23 AM, Leon wrote:
>
>>> I used the Rockler mobile base kit with the wheels on the perimeter,
>>> Very
>>> stable when setting on the leveling screws.
>>
>> Actually as far as mobility goes it really is not bad for moving from the
>> garage to a lift gate on a moving truck, back to the lift gateand back
>> into
>> the new shop. Stable enough, Right Swingman?
>
> Works like a charm. If I do say so myself, we're getting pretty damn good
> at moving entire shops of heavy machinery with just two of us and the lift
> on the back of a 14' box truck ...
>
> This last time the only thing I was concerned with was your big Laguna
> band saw ... It'd killed my soul to see that gorgeous piece of machinery
> fall over!
>
> I still cringe when I even consider the possibility.
Ah wud'n a skeerd. No worse for wear, cut through 30 rawhide chewys
licked'd split.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 14 Jan 2011 22:54:35 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>> "Bill" wrote:
>>>
>>>> The DP is 260#. I want to preclude an accident. A little too much
>>>> tilt, and I might lose control of it on a mover's dolly/hand truck.
>>> -------------------------------
>>> So don't tilt it past 10 degrees.
>>>
>>> 260# is NBD if you approach it like a mover.
>>>
>>> Move it in steps.
>>>
>>> Lew
>>
>>
>>Yes, I could have done that. Part of me is curious about some of the
>>design features (supporting lugs and wheels) which are built-in the
>>current design. They could be useful on my TS and the workbenches we've
>>discussed. Consider my DP baseboard as a prototype mobile base.
>
> I don't think I want my TS 4-6" higher than it is. Hmm, I'll have to
> think
> about it some more.
>
You need to make a TS base out of steel, or really get creative. The wheels
need to be mounted so that the TS is only about an inch off the ground.
--
Jim in NC
On Fri, 14 Jan 2011 22:54:35 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> "Bill" wrote:
>>
>>> The DP is 260#. I want to preclude an accident. A little too much
>>> tilt, and I might lose control of it on a mover's dolly/hand truck.
>> -------------------------------
>> So don't tilt it past 10 degrees.
>>
>> 260# is NBD if you approach it like a mover.
>>
>> Move it in steps.
>>
>> Lew
>
>
>Yes, I could have done that. Part of me is curious about some of the
>design features (supporting lugs and wheels) which are built-in the
>current design. They could be useful on my TS and the workbenches we've
>discussed. Consider my DP baseboard as a prototype mobile base.
I don't think I want my TS 4-6" higher than it is. Hmm, I'll have to think
about it some more.
Bill wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> "Morgans" wrote:
>>
>>> I would extend the front and back deck boards 6" ( or what is
>>> necessary for the wheels to mount and turn 369 degrees) on each
>>> side and mount the wheels on the outside of the frame on the
>>> underside of the extended deck boards. My reasons are: 1.) You want
>>> to have the widest base possible while moving a top heavy beast like
>>> a drill press. Picture getting it moving, and a wheel hits a cord
>>> or nail or block of wood on the floor. The DP stops suddenly,
>>> trying to tip it over. 2) When, not if, a wheel gets hung up on a
>>> nail or cord or scrap of wood, you want to be able to identify which
>>> wheel is blocked, and then be able to reach down and remove the
>>> obstruction. You can not do that if you can not see it, or reach
>>> it.
>>>
>>> Take my advice, or I guarantee you will regret it. Wait and see.
>>>
>>> Right, everyone?
>> -------------------------------
>>
>> Given a two wheeled hand truck and a Come-A-Long to secure DP while
>> moving, who needs casters?
>
> The DP is 260#. I want to preclude an accident. A little too much
> tilt, and I might lose control of it on a mover's dolly/hand truck.
>
Your drill press is really not any heavier than any other floor moutned
press Bill. Go ahead with your dream plans for the base, because in part -
that's what it's all about. But... keep it in perspective - you're not
moving the pyramids of Giza. You could drag that press across the floor at
will, on it's own base if you wanted to.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Leon wrote:
> "Bill"<[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> My Google SketchUp program prompted me to upgrade today. I use
>> the free version (non-pro). As a result, my DP baseboard model I designed
>> last weekend took on more of x-ray look. Its the "edges" feature, that
>> lets you choose whether you see them or not. Check it out if you like.
>> In my last version you couldn't see the wheels the same way you do here:
>
> Not meaning to take the wind out of your sales here. ;~) That is indeed a
> cool newish feature. I noticed that on the previous November release, IIRC.
> It is more of a "true" hidden line feature now, how you would hand draw
> isometrically.
>
Leon, Thank you clarifying. My sails are not deflated in the least. I
may have been "too busy for an update" at the moment I was offered the
November release. This thread ties in nicely with the recent "Design"
thread. I think the comment you made there about "Design being both part
of the work as well as part of the fun", captures the spirit of what is
going on very nicely. SketchUp, of course, is an enabler ('case there's
any non-believers left in the room). : )
Bill
Morgans wrote:
>
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> My Google SketchUp program prompted me to upgrade today. I use
>> the free version (non-pro). As a result, my DP baseboard model I
>> designed last weekend took on more of x-ray look. Its the "edges"
>> feature, that lets you choose whether you see them or not. Check it
>> out if you like. In my last version you couldn't see the wheels the
>> same way you do here:
>>
>> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>>
>> There's probably other new features. I just thought I would mention the
>> new version. If you've been waiting to get on-board with
>> SketchUp, this might be a good chance! I've used (my dad's) T-square
>> before--and I like this better! For the time being at least, it's still
>> free. Watch a few tutorials and build a few boxes in minutes...then
>> build a house, with windows, doors, a fence, etc. After a dozen tries,
>> and perhaps a little reading, you can do it all in a minute (can't do
>> that with your T-square, no?). If you don't want to do it, don't let
>> me try to push you into anything--that was just my little motivational
>> talk! :) Have fun!
>>
>> Bill
>>
>
> I would extend the front and back deck boards 6" ( or what is necessary
> for the wheels to mount and turn 369 degrees) on each side and mount the
> wheels on the outside of the frame on the underside of the extended deck
> boards. My reasons are: 1.) You want to have the widest base possible
> while moving a top heavy beast like a drill press. Picture getting it
> moving, and a wheel hits a cord or nail or block of wood on the floor.
> The DP stops suddenly, trying to tip it over.
My thinking was that the lugs would still be there to keep it from
tipping too far. My first design was more like you described, I think.
I did, by the way, end up with 4" wheels (4 x $12.96 at Home Depot for
anyone considering building their own), so maybe the problem you
describe below will be less of a problem. I promise I will keep your
advise in mind. It will not be too difficult to switch from one design
to the other if I experience difficulties. I've already cut the wood.
Bill
2) When, not if, a wheel
> gets hung up on a nail or cord or scrap of wood, you want to be able to
> identify which wheel is blocked, and then be able to reach down and
> remove the obstruction. You can not do that if you can not see it, or
> reach it.
>
> Take my advice, or I guarantee you will regret it. Wait and see.
>
> Right, everyone?
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Morgans" wrote:
>
>> I would extend the front and back deck boards 6" ( or what is
>> necessary for the wheels to mount and turn 369 degrees) on each
>> side and mount the wheels on the outside of the frame on the
>> underside of the extended deck boards. My reasons are: 1.) You want
>> to have the widest base possible while moving a top heavy beast like
>> a drill press. Picture getting it moving, and a wheel hits a cord
>> or nail or block of wood on the floor. The DP stops suddenly,
>> trying to tip it over. 2) When, not if, a wheel gets hung up on a
>> nail or cord or scrap of wood, you want to be able to identify which
>> wheel is blocked, and then be able to reach down and remove the
>> obstruction. You can not do that if you can not see it, or reach
>> it.
>>
>> Take my advice, or I guarantee you will regret it. Wait and see.
>>
>> Right, everyone?
> -------------------------------
>
> Given a two wheeled hand truck and a Come-A-Long to secure DP while
> moving, who needs casters?
The DP is 260#. I want to preclude an accident. A little too much tilt,
and I might lose control of it on a mover's dolly/hand truck.
Bill
>
> Lew
>
>
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Bill" wrote:
>
>> The DP is 260#. I want to preclude an accident. A little too much
>> tilt, and I might lose control of it on a mover's dolly/hand truck.
> -------------------------------
> So don't tilt it past 10 degrees.
>
> 260# is NBD if you approach it like a mover.
>
> Move it in steps.
>
> Lew
Yes, I could have done that. Part of me is curious about some of the
design features (supporting lugs and wheels) which are built-in the
current design. They could be useful on my TS and the workbenches we've
discussed. Consider my DP baseboard as a prototype mobile base.
Bill
[email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 14 Jan 2011 22:54:35 -0500, Bill<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>> "Bill" wrote:
>>>
>>>> The DP is 260#. I want to preclude an accident. A little too much
>>>> tilt, and I might lose control of it on a mover's dolly/hand truck.
>>> -------------------------------
>>> So don't tilt it past 10 degrees.
>>>
>>> 260# is NBD if you approach it like a mover.
>>>
>>> Move it in steps.
>>>
>>> Lew
>>
>>
>> Yes, I could have done that. Part of me is curious about some of the
>> design features (supporting lugs and wheels) which are built-in the
>> current design. They could be useful on my TS and the workbenches we've
>> discussed. Consider my DP baseboard as a prototype mobile base.
>
> I don't think I want my TS 4-6" higher than it is. Hmm, I'll have to think
> about it some more.
It's nice to know I'm not the only one interested. Hope you'll post your
thoughts when you decide.
Bill
Morgans wrote:
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Fri, 14 Jan 2011 22:54:35 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>>> "Bill" wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> The DP is 260#. I want to preclude an accident. A little too much
>>>>> tilt, and I might lose control of it on a mover's dolly/hand truck.
>>>> -------------------------------
>>>> So don't tilt it past 10 degrees.
>>>>
>>>> 260# is NBD if you approach it like a mover.
>>>>
>>>> Move it in steps.
>>>>
>>>> Lew
>>>
>>>
>>> Yes, I could have done that. Part of me is curious about some of the
>>> design features (supporting lugs and wheels) which are built-in the
>>> current design. They could be useful on my TS and the workbenches we've
>>> discussed. Consider my DP baseboard as a prototype mobile base.
>>
>> I don't think I want my TS 4-6" higher than it is. Hmm, I'll have to
>> think
>> about it some more.
>>
>
> You need to make a TS base out of steel, or really get creative. The
> wheels need to be mounted so that the TS is only about an inch off the
> ground.
Jim, Didn't you say you made yours from 4by4s?
Morgans wrote:
>
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> Jim, Didn't you say you made yours from 4by4s?
>
> Nope, I have access to metal working stuff and welder. My TS wheels have
> an angle iron base.
Thanks, you really helped give me a good lesson on mobile bases!
Bill
On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 00:01:12 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>[email protected] wrote:
>> On Fri, 14 Jan 2011 22:54:35 -0500, Bill<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>>> "Bill" wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> The DP is 260#. I want to preclude an accident. A little too much
>>>>> tilt, and I might lose control of it on a mover's dolly/hand truck.
>>>> -------------------------------
>>>> So don't tilt it past 10 degrees.
>>>>
>>>> 260# is NBD if you approach it like a mover.
>>>>
>>>> Move it in steps.
>>>>
>>>> Lew
>>>
>>>
>>> Yes, I could have done that. Part of me is curious about some of the
>>> design features (supporting lugs and wheels) which are built-in the
>>> current design. They could be useful on my TS and the workbenches we've
>>> discussed. Consider my DP baseboard as a prototype mobile base.
>>
>> I don't think I want my TS 4-6" higher than it is. Hmm, I'll have to think
>> about it some more.
>
>It's nice to know I'm not the only one interested. Hope you'll post your
>thoughts when you decide.
My Unisaw is already on a mobile cart, along with the extension table.
However, I'd like to reuse the space under the extension table for cabinets.
There's never enough cabinets and never enough floor space. Fitting cabinets
to the mobile base is quite a design challenge. A platform under the whole
thing would make the design much simpler. I'm not sure of the wisdom in
raising the table that much, though.
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> My Google SketchUp program prompted me to upgrade today. I use
> the free version (non-pro). As a result, my DP baseboard model I designed
> last weekend took on more of x-ray look. Its the "edges" feature, that
> lets you choose whether you see them or not. Check it out if you like.
> In my last version you couldn't see the wheels the same way you do here:
>
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> There's probably other new features. I just thought I would mention the
> new version. If you've been waiting to get on-board with
> SketchUp, this might be a good chance! I've used (my dad's) T-square
> before--and I like this better! For the time being at least, it's still
> free. Watch a few tutorials and build a few boxes in minutes...then build
> a house, with windows, doors, a fence, etc. After a dozen tries, and
> perhaps a little reading, you can do it all in a minute (can't do that
> with your T-square, no?). If you don't want to do it, don't let me try to
> push you into anything--that was just my little motivational talk! :)
> Have fun!
>
> Bill
>
I would extend the front and back deck boards 6" ( or what is necessary for
the wheels to mount and turn 369 degrees) on each side and mount the wheels
on the outside of the frame on the underside of the extended deck boards.
My reasons are: 1.) You want to have the widest base possible while moving a
top heavy beast like a drill press. Picture getting it moving, and a wheel
hits a cord or nail or block of wood on the floor. The DP stops suddenly,
trying to tip it over. 2) When, not if, a wheel gets hung up on a nail or
cord or scrap of wood, you want to be able to identify which wheel is
blocked, and then be able to reach down and remove the obstruction. You can
not do that if you can not see it, or reach it.
Take my advice, or I guarantee you will regret it. Wait and see.
Right, everyone?
--
Jim in NC
On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 02:11:43 -0500, "Morgans" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Fri, 14 Jan 2011 22:54:35 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>>> "Bill" wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> The DP is 260#. I want to preclude an accident. A little too much
>>>>> tilt, and I might lose control of it on a mover's dolly/hand truck.
>>>> -------------------------------
>>>> So don't tilt it past 10 degrees.
>>>>
>>>> 260# is NBD if you approach it like a mover.
>>>>
>>>> Move it in steps.
>>>>
>>>> Lew
>>>
>>>
>>>Yes, I could have done that. Part of me is curious about some of the
>>>design features (supporting lugs and wheels) which are built-in the
>>>current design. They could be useful on my TS and the workbenches we've
>>>discussed. Consider my DP baseboard as a prototype mobile base.
>>
>> I don't think I want my TS 4-6" higher than it is. Hmm, I'll have to
>> think
>> about it some more.
>>
>
>You need to make a TS base out of steel, or really get creative. The wheels
>need to be mounted so that the TS is only about an inch off the ground.
Those would be my thoughts as well. I'll have to trek out to the garage to
see if additional height would be a big negative, though. It should be a nice
day, so...