Folks -
Well, I've gone and done it. Finally started chopping up all that QSWO for
the 3 pc set (coffee and two side tables)
Today I cut the leg squares and have them milled to size. I found two
boards that'll be the drawer fronts - the ray flake does sort of a sunrise
pattern across the board. I have the boards picked out for the top as well.
I did have trouble with one of the 8/4 boards. It had a pretty good size
void in the center of the stock - it wasn't visible from the ends, and I
didn't discover it until I cross cut the leg blanks. Jim at Mt. Storm in
Windsor said he'd make it right. The other hitch is that when I figured the
BF of the board and compared it to my invoice I found that I was
*significantly* overcharged for all of the 8/4 stock. I'll keep y'all
posted on that as well. I haven't had any trouble with Mt. Storm, and even
tho' what I am doing is "little little" compared to what they probably do,
they've always been very helpful. There was a pretty big range in the MC of
all of the oak I purchased, but it has pretty much settled out since it has
been in the shop for about a month.
I've been reading Tauton's "Practical Design Solutions and Strategies"
(2000) and the guidance is both inspiring and daunting. Their "design
suite" of choices for building a table with drawers is amazing. Any *two*
of their suggestions would turn a standard table into a brick um, kindling
house, and there are *way* more than that. I don't think I've run into a
bad book from Tauton, but then I'm a wood infoslut...
In their design, they show that the top divider rail is dovetailed into the
top end of the legs. How the hell do you cut a joint like that in oak
without a chest of scary-sharp chisels ready to go? Their design on the
joinery would really make a hell of a table, so if you have any
suggestions...
I am going to use shop made thick veneer to cover the flatsawn faces of the
leg blanks - I'll trim them to allow for final size after I glue on the
false faces.
More to come,
John Moorhead