Been lurking for a while, first post.
Anyone have experience with using 5.2mm plywood in frame and panel
furniture. I really like to cut my slots with the router, but have
found that 5.2mm is a lot smaller than my 1/4" straight bit. MLCS sells
5.2mm bits (They also sell 5.2mm slot cutters). So here is the
question.
1. If you use a 5.2mm bit or slot cutter will that create a slot that
is too small for the ~5.2mm plywood +glue +plywood thickness variation?
the 5.2 I have been using is bookmatched birch and seems pretty
consistent.
2. What would be better a router bit or a slot cutter. Seems like a
slot cutter gives you more wood on the table but also seems like the
more treacherous to use.
Some additional info
5.2mm = .2047238" Size of the plywood
3/16" = .1875" Clearly too small
7/32" = .21875" perhaps an option but it is hard to find this bit.
13/64 = .203125" Just a little too small doesn't seem like this would
leave space for glue.
Wyatt
I used my router the last time with a 1/4" bit and it worked fine. I
just had the problem of having to shim the plywood as it was too thin
(5.2mm). I assume when you say too slow you mean feed speed. This is
not a concern but notably I have a Craftsman tablesaw that I don't
trust much in the way of square and clean cuts and a porter cable
router that is always perfect.
W
"hikinandbikin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> 5.2mm = .2047238" Size of the plywood
> 3/16" = .1875" Clearly too small
> 7/32" = .21875" perhaps an option but it is hard to find this bit.
> 13/64 = .203125" Just a little too small doesn't seem like this would
> leave space for glue.
You are calling out measurements to 5 or 6 decimal places. If you have a
13/63 bit use it and if you need to make the slot wider put a strip of
scotch tape on the edge of your router base and you will widen the slot.
You could also just file or sand a small bevel on the plywood and tap it in
the slot.
A router bit in a piece of lumber probably cuts a swath just a little wider
than itself anyway.
--
Roger Shoaf
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.
Thanks All I appreciate the responses. Good call on the glue I can get
the 5.2mm router bit for 9 bucks. Notably I was just giving the
measurements for a frame of reference. I have actually spent a fair
amount of time tuning up my tablesaw. I just haven't had the time and
money to go and buy good pulleys and a new belt for my saw, as a result
the blade vibration is too great for much precision.
W
"hikinandbikin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I used my router the last time with a 1/4" bit and it worked fine. I
> just had the problem of having to shim the plywood as it was too thin
> (5.2mm). I assume when you say too slow you mean feed speed. This is
> not a concern but notably I have a Craftsman tablesaw that I don't
> trust much in the way of square and clean cuts and a porter cable
> router that is always perfect.
> W
>
Your Craftsman table saw should do that job very nicely. Lots of us use
them and other brands to do like work every day. It sounds like you need to
spend a little time tuning up your table saw to cut reliably and accurately.
It can be done.
I'm also wondering why you want to glue your panel in your frames? Your
panel should be floating in your frames. Am I misunderstanding your intent?
As to the precise size matter, I'd use the 5.2mm bit if you don't want to
use your table saw, and touch your plywood with a little sandpaper to shave
a whisker off for the fit you desire.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
In article <[email protected]>, "hikinandbikin" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Been lurking for a while, first post.
>Anyone have experience with using 5.2mm plywood in frame and panel
>furniture. I really like to cut my slots with the router, but have
>found that 5.2mm is a lot smaller than my 1/4" straight bit.
Ridge Carbide sells a dado blade intended for exactly that purpose. That's
what I use...
http://www.ridgecarbidetool.com/html/dado_quarter_master.htm
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
"hikinandbikin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Been lurking for a while, first post.
> Anyone have experience with using 5.2mm plywood in frame and panel
> furniture. I really like to cut my slots with the router, but have
> found that 5.2mm is a lot smaller than my 1/4" straight bit. MLCS sells
> 5.2mm bits (They also sell 5.2mm slot cutters). So here is the
> question.
> 1. If you use a 5.2mm bit or slot cutter will that create a slot that
> is too small for the ~5.2mm plywood +glue +plywood thickness variation?
> the 5.2 I have been using is bookmatched birch and seems pretty
> consistent.
> 2. What would be better a router bit or a slot cutter. Seems like a
> slot cutter gives you more wood on the table but also seems like the
> more treacherous to use.
IMHO the router is too slow for cutting groves in wood to accept a plywood
panel. Use you TS and make 2 passes. Turn the board around for the second
pass and your slot will be perfectly centered.
"hikinandbikin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I used my router the last time with a 1/4" bit and it worked fine. I
> just had the problem of having to shim the plywood as it was too thin
> (5.2mm). I assume when you say too slow you mean feed speed. This is
> not a concern but notably I have a Craftsman tablesaw that I don't
> trust much in the way of square and clean cuts and a porter cable
> router that is always perfect.
Perfect except you have shim the plywood. I have done both for many years.
The TS is the way to go unless you simply like using the router and the
shimming, and the noise, and the..... ;~)