Many of you know I have been planning my garage workshop. One thing that
has occurred to me recently is the possible conflict in the existence of a
table saw and my electric garage door opener. I have a 9' ceiling, the
motor for the door (Chamberlain 1/2 hp), is just about in the center of the
ceiling and I anticipate placing a Grizzly 3HP TS just about underneath.
The room is 20' by 20'. Of course, lots of other tools generate sawdust
too--and it seems that any of them are likely to create problems for the
garage door system if I'm not proactive. I never had one before; I hope I'm
worrying too much (but I doubt I am...).
I browsed through the garage door-opener manual and they didn't even mention
table saws--imagine that! : ). My intuition throws up a warning flag
though. At first I was thinking about a "dust explosion" and secondly I was
thinking about accumulated dust on the mechanical parts of the door system.
What's the skinny on this?
Thank you,
Bill
On Wed, 6 Jan 2010 03:08:35 -0500, "Bill" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Many of you know I have been planning my garage workshop. One thing that
>has occurred to me recently is the possible conflict in the existence of a
>table saw and my electric garage door opener. I have a 9' ceiling, the
>motor for the door (Chamberlain 1/2 hp), is just about in the center of the
>ceiling and I anticipate placing a Grizzly 3HP TS just about underneath.
>The room is 20' by 20'. Of course, lots of other tools generate sawdust
>too--and it seems that any of them are likely to create problems for the
>garage door system if I'm not proactive. I never had one before; I hope I'm
>worrying too much (but I doubt I am...).
>
>I browsed through the garage door-opener manual and they didn't even mention
>table saws--imagine that! : ). My intuition throws up a warning flag
>though. At first I was thinking about a "dust explosion" and secondly I was
>thinking about accumulated dust on the mechanical parts of the door system.
>What's the skinny on this?
If there were _any_ concern on your part, I'd think it would be a
fairly straightforward proposition to build a box around it with
filter-type material to protect it, but allow the mechanism to breathe
the very little amount that it might need.
IIRC, there IS a proper "antenna" (often, a short length of wire) for
reception from the remote. This could easily be fed through either
box or filter material.
But ... my brother has /trashed/ his garage with dust from his
woodshop for years, too, and never had a gdo problem, either.
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Many of you know I have been planning my garage workshop. One thing that
> has occurred to me recently is the possible conflict in the existence of a
> table saw and my electric garage door opener. I have a 9' ceiling, the
> motor for the door (Chamberlain 1/2 hp), is just about in the center of
> the ceiling and I anticipate placing a Grizzly 3HP TS just about
> underneath. The room is 20' by 20'. Of course, lots of other tools
> generate sawdust too--and it seems that any of them are likely to create
> problems for the garage door system if I'm not proactive. I never had one
> before; I hope I'm worrying too much (but I doubt I am...).
>
> I browsed through the garage door-opener manual and they didn't even
> mention table saws--imagine that! : ). My intuition throws up a warning
> flag though. At first I was thinking about a "dust explosion" and
> secondly I was thinking about accumulated dust on the mechanical parts of
> the door system. What's the skinny on this?
>
> Thank you,
> Bill
Your door opener assembly is going to get dust on it regardless if you cut
wood or not in the garage. My Chamberlin lasted about 25 years and things
like switches and a belt were my biggest problem, never a dust related
problem.
That said because the opener assembly does restrict movement in the garage
when moving large items like boards and furnature I finally replaced my
opener with a Wayne Dalton i-Drive opener. It works on my Wayne Dalton door
but there is a similar one that works on ordinary tortion bar doors also.
Basically the spring loaded tortion bar at the door opening header goes
through the opener. The opener spins the tortion bar to open and close the
door. With this type opener there is more room and the entire opener is
located on the door header.
On Jan 6, 2:08=A0am, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Many of you know I have been planning my garage workshop. =A0One thing th=
at
> has occurred to me recently is the possible conflict in the existence of =
a
> table saw and my electric garage door opener. =A0I have a 9' ceiling, the
> motor for the door (Chamberlain 1/2 hp), is just about in the center of t=
he
> ceiling and I anticipate placing a Grizzly 3HP TS just about underneath.
> The room is 20' by 20'. =A0Of course, lots of other tools generate sawdus=
t
> too--and it seems that any of them are likely to create problems for the
> garage door system if I'm not proactive. =A0I never had one before; I hop=
e I'm
> worrying too much (but I doubt I am...).
>
> I browsed through the garage door-opener manual and they didn't even ment=
ion
> table saws--imagine that! : ). =A0My intuition throws up a warning flag
> though. At first I was thinking about a "dust explosion" and =A0secondly =
I was
> thinking about accumulated dust on the mechanical parts of the door syste=
m.
> What's the skinny on this?
>
> Thank you,
> Bill
Never thought about the opener. However, I recently had to have two
opener PC boards replaced because of a lightning strike. The service
guy suggested cleaning the rollers from time to time and re-
lubricating. He said they had seen a lot of bearing failures in wood
shops or garage work shops. The sawdust gets into the bearing and
starves the bearing for lubricant. Eventually they gum up or start
squealing.
RonB
On 1/6/2010 2:08 AM, Bill wrote:
> Many of you know I have been planning my garage workshop. One thing that
> has occurred to me recently is the possible conflict in the existence of a
> table saw and my electric garage door opener. I have a 9' ceiling, the
> motor for the door (Chamberlain 1/2 hp), is just about in the center of the
> ceiling and I anticipate placing a Grizzly 3HP TS just about underneath.
> The room is 20' by 20'. Of course, lots of other tools generate sawdust
> too--and it seems that any of them are likely to create problems for the
> garage door system if I'm not proactive. I never had one before; I hope I'm
> worrying too much (but I doubt I am...).
>
> I browsed through the garage door-opener manual and they didn't even mention
> table saws--imagine that! : ). My intuition throws up a warning flag
> though. At first I was thinking about a "dust explosion" and secondly I was
> thinking about accumulated dust on the mechanical parts of the door system.
> What's the skinny on this?
I agree with the other's remarks ... there really is no need to be
concerned.
I've had a table saw directly under a garage door in two shops and have
never had a problem with the openers, or the doors.
What does happen in a wood shop with garage doors is that they do get
dirty from the dust accumulating on the outside surface when opened,
something you will undoubtedly notice after a while.
Just keep them blown off and washed down every so often and you'll be fine.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Jan 6, 5:34=A0pm, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Thank you all for kindly reassuring me about my excess concern over the
> garage door opener!
>
> How well should I expect my Craftsman ShopVac (6.5 Peak HP, 16 gal.)
> attached directly to the TS to work for DC, compared to a "real" DC? =A0 =
It
> seems pretty powerful (it made easy work of cleaning the gutters on my
> house).
>
> I anticipate the TS will be a Grizzly 3HP G-1023 or G-0690.
I had the same ShopVac hooked up to my TS, before buying a true DC.
For me -- using a zero clearance insert -- whether using the vacuum OR
the DC, more sawdust came over the TOP of the TS than anywhere else.
The extraction from the 'cabinet' was pretty good in either case.
Now I see why people build hood thingies for over their blades....
Incidentally, Sears sells a few levels of replacement dry filters for
their Shop Vacs. They seem to be a genuine "get what you pay for" for
dust extraction and air filtration. Higher end =3D better job.
Lastly, lots of people recommend some sort of chip separation for use
with a Shop Vac. Keeps it from filling/clogging for much longer
periods of time.
On Jan 6, 7:34=A0pm, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Thank you all for kindly reassuring me about my excess concern over the
> garage door opener!
>
> How well should I expect my Craftsman ShopVac (6.5 Peak HP, 16 gal.)
> attached directly to the TS to work for DC, compared to a "real" DC? =A0 =
It
> seems pretty powerful (it made easy work of cleaning the gutters on my
> house).
>
> I anticipate the TS will be a Grizzly 3HP G-1023 or G-0690.
>
> Thank you,
> Bill
I use a shop vac on my tablesaw and it works fairly well. I have a
contractor saw with a zero clearance plate and a closed off back end.
In order for it to work for more than a few minutes you need a cyclone
in between otherwise the filter clogs in no time. You can easily make
your own or just buy a cyclone lid.
http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive04/2_7drewdust.html
I know it is not a true cyclone but it keeps all than big stuff from
getting to the vac and a surprising amount of dust.
Thank you all for kindly reassuring me about my excess concern over the
garage door opener!
How well should I expect my Craftsman ShopVac (6.5 Peak HP, 16 gal.)
attached directly to the TS to work for DC, compared to a "real" DC? It
seems pretty powerful (it made easy work of cleaning the gutters on my
house).
I anticipate the TS will be a Grizzly 3HP G-1023 or G-0690.
Thank you,
Bill
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Craftsman ShopVac (6.5 Peak HP, 16 gal.)
That ShopVac has a powerful blower too. I was out playing--I mean working,
in the sub-freezing garage last night, and a small furry rodent showed his
face, and the rest of him, tail, and all. It just occurred to me that I
could use the shopvac to blow him right out the garage door. It's supposed
to be below 0 degrees F. this weekend though so I'll let him stay in the
cardboard box he found for the time being... I think if he brings many
friends the parties over!
Anyway, the point I wanted to make is that the blower will be as easy way to
dust off anything and everything. Handiest tool I've bought so far (works on
car, gutters, leaf blower,...).
Bill
"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 6 Jan 2010 19:34:07 -0500, "Bill" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>Thank you all for kindly reassuring me about my excess concern over the
>>garage door opener!
>>
>>How well should I expect my Craftsman ShopVac (6.5 Peak HP, 16 gal.)
>>attached directly to the TS to work for DC, compared to a "real" DC? It
>>seems pretty powerful (it made easy work of cleaning the gutters on my
>>house).
>
> Didn't work worth the bother of attaching, with my Unisaw. I moved
> the shop vac to the SCMS and bought a DC for the Unisaw.
Thank you. I guess it's time to start looking at entry level DC.
Maybe I can explain to my wife that it came with the saw.. : )
Bill
"Neil Brooks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:d3fd7d04-db75-4808-bfec-811a65df423e@j19g2000yqk.googlegroups.com...
> Lastly, lots of people recommend some sort of chip separation for use
> with a Shop Vac. Keeps it from filling/clogging for much longer
> periods of time.
Would something as simple as a short bit of horizontal tube and a 'T' work
for that? We had something like that in the suction pipe on the cotton gin
I worked in for rocks. Had a spring loaded cover on the rock drop. Every
once in a while we would walk by and open the cover to drop the rocks out
into the trash can below.
On 1/6/2010 6:39 PM, Neil Brooks wrote:
> Lastly, lots of people recommend some sort of chip separation for use
> with a Shop Vac. Keeps it from filling/clogging for much longer
> periods of time.
I haven't used it on the table saw yet, but I've found this DIY
separator to work well with my router table:
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/MiniCyclone/
Built of cutoffs and castoffs, the price was right :)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
On 1/7/2010 9:37 PM, Neil Brooks wrote:
> Maybe somebody could take your plan and add an abs/pvc 90* elbow TO
> it.
Easily done - but abrupt 90° turns are detrimental to good/efficient
flows of everything - fluids, gasses, and even wood chips.
> Oh, and ... thanks for the link to your website. I was having
> difficulty spending enough of my free time on the Internet ;-)
Glad I could be of help - but I guess I should warn you that most of the
projects on my web site are only short-term time consumers, and only
worsen the excess budget and excess free time problems once they're
completed. :)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
On Thu, 07 Jan 2010 21:13:45 -0600, Morris Dovey <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 1/6/2010 6:39 PM, Neil Brooks wrote:
>
>> Lastly, lots of people recommend some sort of chip separation for use
>> with a Shop Vac. Keeps it from filling/clogging for much longer
>> periods of time.
>
>I haven't used it on the table saw yet, but I've found this DIY
>separator to work well with my router table:
>
> http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/MiniCyclone/
>
>Built of cutoffs and castoffs, the price was right :)
Yeah, well ....
That's fine for people who want a damned fine result for not a lot of
money, but ....
Nicely done!
On my trash-can lid model, incidentally, there is a 90* elbow on the
intake side (where yuck and filth come *into* the can). Presumably,
this generates something of a cyclonic action, allowing the bigger
pieces to fall out.
Maybe somebody could take your plan and add an abs/pvc 90* elbow TO
it.
I have NO idea whether it would work any better, but .... ;-)
Oh, and ... thanks for the link to your website. I was having
difficulty spending enough of my free time on the Internet ;-)
On Thu, 7 Jan 2010 11:43:37 -0700, "Bob La Londe" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>
>"Neil Brooks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:d3fd7d04-db75-4808-bfec-811a65df423e@j19g2000yqk.googlegroups.com...
>
>> Lastly, lots of people recommend some sort of chip separation for use
>> with a Shop Vac. Keeps it from filling/clogging for much longer
>> periods of time.
>
>Would something as simple as a short bit of horizontal tube and a 'T' work
>for that? We had something like that in the suction pipe on the cotton gin
>I worked in for rocks. Had a spring loaded cover on the rock drop. Every
>once in a while we would walk by and open the cover to drop the rocks out
>into the trash can below.
Good question.
Though I am FAR FROM any sort of expert on the subject, I sort of
doubt it.
Here is an EXCELLENT reference on dust collection that includes a
number of different sorts of chip separators:
http://www.billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/equipment.cfm
I bought the garbage-can-lid variety, and it's working just perfectly
... for cheap!
On Wed, 6 Jan 2010 19:34:07 -0500, "Bill" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>Thank you all for kindly reassuring me about my excess concern over the
>garage door opener!
>
>How well should I expect my Craftsman ShopVac (6.5 Peak HP, 16 gal.)
>attached directly to the TS to work for DC, compared to a "real" DC? It
>seems pretty powerful (it made easy work of cleaning the gutters on my
>house).
Didn't work worth the bother of attaching, with my Unisaw. I moved
the shop vac to the SCMS and bought a DC for the Unisaw.
>I anticipate the TS will be a Grizzly 3HP G-1023 or G-0690.
Bill wrote:
> Many of you know I have been planning my garage workshop. One thing
> that has occurred to me recently is the possible conflict in the
> existence of a table saw and my electric garage door opener. I have
> a 9' ceiling, the motor for the door (Chamberlain 1/2 hp), is just
> about in the center of the ceiling and I anticipate placing a Grizzly
> 3HP TS just about underneath. The room is 20' by 20'. Of course,
> lots of other tools generate sawdust too--and it seems that any of
> them are likely to create problems for the garage door system if I'm
> not proactive. I never had one before; I hope I'm worrying too much
> (but I doubt I am...).
> I browsed through the garage door-opener manual and they didn't even
> mention table saws--imagine that! : ). My intuition throws up a
> warning flag though. At first I was thinking about a "dust explosion"
> and secondly I was thinking about accumulated dust on the mechanical
> parts of the door system. What's the skinny on this?
>
> Thank you,
> Bill
Never even considered it and my 25 year old opener still works OK. If you
get a dust explosion you are in the crapper with other problems already.
On Wed, 6 Jan 2010 03:08:35 -0500, "Bill" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Many of you know I have been planning my garage workshop. One thing that
>has occurred to me recently is the possible conflict in the existence of a
>table saw and my electric garage door opener. I have a 9' ceiling, the
>motor for the door (Chamberlain 1/2 hp), is just about in the center of the
>ceiling and I anticipate placing a Grizzly 3HP TS just about underneath.
>The room is 20' by 20'. Of course, lots of other tools generate sawdust
>too--and it seems that any of them are likely to create problems for the
>garage door system if I'm not proactive. I never had one before; I hope I'm
>worrying too much (but I doubt I am...).
>
>I browsed through the garage door-opener manual and they didn't even mention
>table saws--imagine that! : ). My intuition throws up a warning flag
>though. At first I was thinking about a "dust explosion" and secondly I was
>thinking about accumulated dust on the mechanical parts of the door system.
>What's the skinny on this?
>
>Thank you,
>Bill
>
A good DC and air filter will protect your shop and lungs, reduce
chance of fire too. A blow gun will make quick work of removing the
dust. Don't think I ever read about a dust explosion in a wood shop,
although it could happen under the right conditions. Get a ABC fire
extingusher for your shop.
On Wed, 6 Jan 2010 20:57:42 -0500, "Bill" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Wed, 6 Jan 2010 19:34:07 -0500, "Bill" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>Thank you all for kindly reassuring me about my excess concern over the
>>>garage door opener!
>>>
>>>How well should I expect my Craftsman ShopVac (6.5 Peak HP, 16 gal.)
>>>attached directly to the TS to work for DC, compared to a "real" DC? It
>>>seems pretty powerful (it made easy work of cleaning the gutters on my
>>>house).
>>
>> Didn't work worth the bother of attaching, with my Unisaw. I moved
>> the shop vac to the SCMS and bought a DC for the Unisaw.
>
>
>Thank you. I guess it's time to start looking at entry level DC.
>Maybe I can explain to my wife that it came with the saw.. : )
I bought a 2HP Penn State Industries DC. I was thinking about the
Grizzley, but was talked into the 1u bag by the folks here. It was
pretty highly rated, too. Could have been packed better for its grand
tour of the East coast, though. <squish>