I have a little project upcoming that will want some nice stained wood
bits. I don't need to match any existing wood bits, just need to get a
dark, rich-looking, slightly reddish finish on a few drawer faces. My
local HD stocks poplar and maple. Poplar is less-expensive.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
I did a project using poplar a while back and it turned fine. I used
minwax gel stain (mahogany I think), and then finished with shellac. I
was going for a lighter color than you, but I'm sure it would work with
any color. I didn't have any problems with blotching.
The front is made out poplar, and the sides are birch ply...
http://www.eskimo.com/~swilson/projects/stereocabinet/images/Closed.jpg
I have great luck staining Poplar. I used to look down on it as a cheap
wood but It is so easy to work and stains to look like anything I want,
I really like it now. Find a commercial wood supplier and you'll pay
about 1/2 as much as you do at HD.
Here is an example of a Poplar project
http://www.sonomaproducts.com/JL/JL-BC-POP.
I used General Finishes Rosewood stain with shellac over that. It's a
water based finish so be sure to raise the grain with watre and knock
it down first. Woodcraft carries the General Finishes products.
He's a finish carpenter. For trim, and wall covering, no one's going to
walk on it. I have poplar in some places in my home. Door openings and
other trim. It holds up fine and carefully chosen pieces have some nice
grain patterns.
"Ba r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 09:51:16 -0500, "Cox West" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>My brother is a finish carpenter. He commented recently that he rarely
>>uses
>>cherry anymore for a library, but instead uses poplar.
>
> Wow. Is the job sold at a much lower price than cherry?
>
> At least he could use birch or maple. Poplar isn't all that durable.
>
> Barry
On 12 Dec 2004 22:19:03 GMT, [email protected] (Charlie Self)
wrote:
> I think of poplar baseboards, door trim and chair rail and I
>think ot bumps and dents. Window trim, fine, crown molding fine. Elsewhere, not
>so fine.
So was I.
A "library" to me means lots of shelf edges and bases with shaped
edges and crisp corners exposed to vacuum cleaner tools, chairs, kids,
the occasional idiot with a step ladder, etc...
I also like the wood I'm going to touch to have a solid feel. For
some reason, poplar always feels hollow, like basswood with grain, to
me. Denser woods, like maple and birch feel more like real cherry
when you tap or knock on them.
Barry
Cox West responds:
>He's a finish carpenter. For trim, and wall covering, no one's going to
>walk on it. I have poplar in some places in my home. Door openings and
>other trim. It holds up fine and carefully chosen pieces have some nice
>grain patterns.
I don't think I'd care for it. If I were going to sub for cherry, alder makes a
better choice. I think of poplar baseboards, door trim and chair rail and I
think ot bumps and dents. Window trim, fine, crown molding fine. Elsewhere, not
so fine.
Charlie Self
"Man is the only animal that blushes. Or needs to." Mark Twain
On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 00:12:09 GMT, "mark" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Cherry stain on maple? Excuse me, I have to go barf up my breakfast.
>>
>> If anyone is interested I can sell you a real nice chrome-plated gold
>> ring.
>>
>> Tim Douglass
>>
>> http://www.DouglassClan.com
>
>Tim, what is the best finish for maple? I realize "best" is subjective. I
>bought some honey amber dye -- and was going to try that on this cherry and
>maple music stand I"m building. I'm trying to really highlight the figured
>maple, since it really is only on the 4 legs and the vertical rails of the
>easel.
>
>I was thinking hit it with a light concentration of the dye, then either
>shellac or spray it with lacquer. The only problem is, there are cherry
>parts to this, and I wasn't sure if I should try to do something else to
>them. Honey Amber dye on cherry doesn't sound good at alllll....
>
>Either that, or I'm leaving it completely natural and using boiled linseed
>oil.
I personally favor the light, natural look for maple. BLO or other oil
finish will bring out the grain and warm it up nicely. I currently am
favoring oil with shellac if I want more protection and some gloss. My
current maple project will get danish oil and maybe shellac.
For the combination of maple and cherry I would think that BLO would
give you perhaps the best overall look - especially as the cherry
darkens with age. I have never worked with cherry, so my opinions
there are rather suspect.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 09:10:57 -0800, Tim Douglass
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 00:57:23 GMT, Ba r r y
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I also like the wood I'm going to touch to have a solid feel. For
>>some reason, poplar always feels hollow, like basswood with grain, to
>>me. Denser woods, like maple and birch feel more like real cherry
>>when you tap or knock on them.
>
>Cherry stain on maple? Excuse me, I have to go barf up my breakfast.
Depends on the maple.
Barry
On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 00:57:23 GMT, Ba r r y
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I also like the wood I'm going to touch to have a solid feel. For
>some reason, poplar always feels hollow, like basswood with grain, to
>me. Denser woods, like maple and birch feel more like real cherry
>when you tap or knock on them.
Cherry stain on maple? Excuse me, I have to go barf up my breakfast.
If anyone is interested I can sell you a real nice chrome-plated gold
ring.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
> Cherry stain on maple? Excuse me, I have to go barf up my breakfast.
>
> If anyone is interested I can sell you a real nice chrome-plated gold
> ring.
>
> Tim Douglass
>
> http://www.DouglassClan.com
Tim, what is the best finish for maple? I realize "best" is subjective. I
bought some honey amber dye -- and was going to try that on this cherry and
maple music stand I"m building. I'm trying to really highlight the figured
maple, since it really is only on the 4 legs and the vertical rails of the
easel.
I was thinking hit it with a light concentration of the dye, then either
shellac or spray it with lacquer. The only problem is, there are cherry
parts to this, and I wasn't sure if I should try to do something else to
them. Honey Amber dye on cherry doesn't sound good at alllll....
Either that, or I'm leaving it completely natural and using boiled linseed
oil.
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
> I have a little project upcoming that will want some nice stained wood
> bits. I don't need to match any existing wood bits, just need to get a
> dark, rich-looking, slightly reddish finish on a few drawer faces. My
> local HD stocks poplar and maple. Poplar is less-expensive.
About the only thing poplar is good for is staining or painting. It has a
greenish tinge sometimes, I think from mineral inclusions, which can affect
the final color. If you start off with even colored wood it's pretty much
a blank canvas.
I used to make a lot of things out of stained poplar because I didn't know
anything else was available locally. Once I tried real walnut, I haven't
stained anything since. Everything is either walnut, or something that
looks good complimenting walnut. At least I'm a man who knows what he
likes. :)
If you look here:
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/projects.html
The house thing, the top of the hutch thing, and the plant stand are all
predominantly poplar with good ol' Minwhacks stain and a plastic dipping of
poly on top.
I wish I had pictures of my most recent stuff, but I don't have a working
scanner or a digital camera anymore. I've come a long way since that first
piece of walnut, and my introduction to shellac.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> About the only thing poplar is good for is staining or painting. It has a
> greenish tinge sometimes, I think from mineral inclusions, which can affect
> the final color.
>
Actually, I kinda' like the greenish part. I'm using some for a
multi-shelf magazine rack in progress and the green (sapwood?) across
the top contrasts nicely with the white (heartwood?) of the rest. I
even got some water-based poly (which I hate) to see how it will look
without ambering.
I have heard that the gree will eventually turn brown under light, but
that should still look good.
--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description
using the Denatured alcohol as a conditioner is fairly common from what I
here, paint thiner can be used to, it's been my experience that wood
conditioner, like minwax's, works a little better, and you don't have to
work as fast, but at 4x+ the cost I don't know if it's worth it
Cox West wrote:
>
> My brother is a finish carpenter. He commented recently that he rarely
> uses
> cherry anymore for a library, but instead uses poplar. Wipes it with
> Denatured alchohol first. I forget his exact words, but it does something
> to the pores so that all the peices take the stan in the same manner, for
> consitancy of the finish. Perhaps someone else could comment on this
> further.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I have a little project upcoming that will want some nice stained wood
>>bits. I don't need to match any existing wood bits, just need to get a
>>dark, rich-looking, slightly reddish finish on a few drawer faces. My
>>local HD stocks poplar and maple. Poplar is less-expensive.
>>
>> --
>> Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
>> 71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
>> 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
>> KG6RCR
mark wrote:
>
> "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I have a little project upcoming that will want some nice stained wood
>>bits. I don't need to match any existing wood bits, just need to get a
>>dark, rich-looking, slightly reddish finish on a few drawer faces. My
>>local HD stocks poplar and maple. Poplar is less-expensive.
>>
>
> One cool thing I have done with poplar is once you've got it ready to be
> finished, but before you stain it, leave it out in the sun for a couple
> hours -- longer if you have a nice day. It is very photosensitive, and
> the
> greenishness will turn a nice warm tan, almost like cherry. Then finish
> it.
I wonder of grow light would have the same affect? then you could do it year
round
On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 20:21:42 +0000, Ken Yee
<[email protected]> wrote:
>This lets the pigment sit on the surface of the poplar (yeah, I know,
>major hack)-:
It's really not a hack.
Some awfully expensive, household name furniture is stained with a
pigment stain over a clear coat, with awesome results.
Barry
"jeff" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Generally, isn't this type of finishing done with spray equipment, though?
> I think that most of this is done with some kind of tinted lacquer, and
> the
> color does not come so much from the wood being dyed or pigmented as from
> the topcoat.
Absolutely. This was not, by any stretch, a fine finish but it was
attractive for its use - a multi use office and conference center. It was
pretty much what is used in a lot of residential construction and that
process is not indended to be beautiful - just attracive and quick.
The biggest mistake I made when we built our house was not knowing about
these 3-step production laquer finishes (sprayed stain, sealer, finish). It
sounds impressive but basically it allows a good gun guy and a couple of
high-school drop outs to finish a 2,000 square foot house in two days (while
they are doing another down the street, during dry times).
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
>I have a little project upcoming that will want some nice stained wood
>bits. I don't need to match any existing wood bits, just need to get a
>dark, rich-looking, slightly reddish finish on a few drawer faces. My local
>HD stocks poplar and maple. Poplar is less-expensive.
I've heard it is good, I've hear it is no good. Why not buy a small pice to
see if it does what you want in the end.
Better yet, look for hardwood at a hardwood dealer and you may save money in
the end. HD is not a good place for buying wood.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> I have a little project upcoming that will want some nice stained wood
> bits. I don't need to match any existing wood bits, just need to get a
> dark, rich-looking, slightly reddish finish on a few drawer faces. My
> local HD stocks poplar and maple. Poplar is less-expensive.
>
>
First project I ever made was Poplar. It worked easily enough,
but I remember being disappointed with the appearance - too bland.
Until I put the stain on it... Livened it up really nicely.
I just went & looked at it again - still looks good to me.
YMMV,
Henry
My brother is a finish carpenter. He commented recently that he rarely uses
cherry anymore for a library, but instead uses poplar. Wipes it with
Denatured alchohol first. I forget his exact words, but it does something
to the pores so that all the peices take the stan in the same manner, for
consitancy of the finish. Perhaps someone else could comment on this
further.
Dave
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a little project upcoming that will want some nice stained wood
>bits. I don't need to match any existing wood bits, just need to get a
>dark, rich-looking, slightly reddish finish on a few drawer faces. My local
>HD stocks poplar and maple. Poplar is less-expensive.
>
> --
> Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
> 71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
> 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
> KG6RCR
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
<[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> dark, rich-looking, slightly reddish finish on a few drawer faces. My
Poplar blotches like crazy if you use a pigment stain (aka Minwax, etc.).
It's best to use a dye based stain.
If you must use a pigment stain (we had to so we could match the door
moulding w/ some other ancient door mouldings), do this:
- use a wood sealer
- sand
- use spray on polyurethane in a can
- sand
- put the pigment stain on (which now sits on the surface)
- use spray on polyurethane in a can
- sand
- use helmsman poly for a few more coats w/ sanding after each coat
This lets the pigment sit on the surface of the poplar (yeah, I know,
major hack)-:
If you've never used poplar, try some first. And use dye based
stain if you can (even if it fades in sunlight)...
Poplar is also pretty soft, so it's prone to denting. Cuts very
well though.
ken
Ken Yee <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> - use spray on polyurethane in a can
Sorry...first step should be to shellac it, not poly.
ken
I've used water base stain with poplar without any appreciable
blotchiness. Haven't done a lot of it so I'm no expert but my limited
experience came out fine.
bob g.
jeff wrote:
> Generally, isn't this type of finishing done with spray equipment, though?
> I think that most of this is done with some kind of tinted lacquer, and the
> color does not come so much from the wood being dyed or pigmented as from
> the topcoat. Therefore, uneven absorption is not nearly as much of an issue
> as applying an even coat. with the HVLP sprayer.
>
> I'm building a large built-in bookcase pout of birch and poplar right now,
> and I am seriously thinking of hiring a pro to come in and do this type of
> finish so that I don't screw the whole thing up by blotching it.
>
> If you have any input for me (before I spend $1200 on the pro) it would be
> greatly appreciated.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> "RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:yBQud.93766$EZ.12005@okepread07...
>
>>I never thought of poplar as a very desirable wood for staining, at least
>>until recently. My son, a construction superentendent, just finished an
>>office mall and the architect called for dark cherry red stained poplar
>
> for
>
>>a confrence room door, base and chair rail trim. My son balked but the
>>architect told him to have the finisher do it to specs and it looks great!
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 18:59:37 -0800, "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a little project upcoming that will want some nice stained wood
>bits. I don't need to match any existing wood bits, just need to get a
>dark, rich-looking, slightly reddish finish on a few drawer faces. My
>local HD stocks poplar and maple. Poplar is less-expensive.
Poplar is considered a "secondary" wood and typically used for
interior furniture pieces where the wood is not obvious. HD is the
wrong place to buy hardwoods. If you want a reddish appearance,
consider hard maple, cherry or red oak For a few more dollars
mahogany has a beautiful rich red color.
On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 14:00:19 -0500, Bob G.
<[email protected]> wrote:
>HD does not sell any in expensive wood.... !
They sell cheaper woods at expensive prices. <G>
Barry
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a little project upcoming that will want some nice stained wood
>bits. I don't need to match any existing wood bits, just need to get a
>dark, rich-looking, slightly reddish finish on a few drawer faces. My local
>HD stocks poplar and maple. Poplar is less-expensive.
>
One cool thing I have done with poplar is once you've got it ready to be
finished, but before you stain it, leave it out in the sun for a couple
hours -- longer if you have a nice day. It is very photosensitive, and the
greenishness will turn a nice warm tan, almost like cherry. Then finish it.
Generally, isn't this type of finishing done with spray equipment, though?
I think that most of this is done with some kind of tinted lacquer, and the
color does not come so much from the wood being dyed or pigmented as from
the topcoat. Therefore, uneven absorption is not nearly as much of an issue
as applying an even coat. with the HVLP sprayer.
I'm building a large built-in bookcase pout of birch and poplar right now,
and I am seriously thinking of hiring a pro to come in and do this type of
finish so that I don't screw the whole thing up by blotching it.
If you have any input for me (before I spend $1200 on the pro) it would be
greatly appreciated.
Jeff
"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:yBQud.93766$EZ.12005@okepread07...
> I never thought of poplar as a very desirable wood for staining, at least
> until recently. My son, a construction superentendent, just finished an
> office mall and the architect called for dark cherry red stained poplar
for
> a confrence room door, base and chair rail trim. My son balked but the
> architect told him to have the finisher do it to specs and it looks great!
>
>
In my experience, both poplar and maple will blotch unless you first put a
sealer on the wood.
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a little project upcoming that will want some nice stained wood
>bits. I don't need to match any existing wood bits, just need to get a
>dark, rich-looking, slightly reddish finish on a few drawer faces. My local
>HD stocks poplar and maple. Poplar is less-expensive.
>
> --
> Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
> 71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
> 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
> KG6RCR
On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 18:59:37 -0800, "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a little project upcoming that will want some nice stained wood
>bits. I don't need to match any existing wood bits, just need to get a
>dark, rich-looking, slightly reddish finish on a few drawer faces. My
>local HD stocks poplar and maple. Poplar is less-expensive.
HD does not sell any in expensive wood.... !
But I use Poplar more then I like because the projects I am making
(for my wife) have to sell at a price point so darn low that I there
is no way to use even expensive lumber like number 2 common pine....
lol...
But if you put on a sealer...then use a gel stain you should be able
to have it look pretty good... I am in the process right now of trying
to mix my own dyes then spraying the finish... NOT having much luck
yet with this but I have only been playing for a few days...
I use Bartlets stain most of the time...just never got good resuylts
using minwax products....
Bob Griffiths
Bob G writes:
>
>HD does not sell any in expensive wood.... !
>But I use Poplar more then I like because the projects I am making
>(for my wife) have to sell at a price point so darn low that I there
>is no way to use even expensive lumber like number 2 common pine....
It's possible to buy S2S poplar in most areas for under 2 bucks a BF. How much
is HD getting for their S4S? Enough to float a loan for a hand plane? It planes
easily.
Charlie Self
"Man is the only animal that blushes. Or needs to." Mark Twain
Charlie Self wrote:
> much is HD getting for their S4S? Enough to float a loan for a hand plane?
> It planes easily.
Probably easier'n every other wood, soft or hard. Planing poplar doesn't
even count as practicing.
I didn't raise the S2S/S4S HD ripoff question because I figured the OP was
in the same situation I used to be in. I made stuff out of poplar because
Lowe's was the only place I knew to get wood, and it was all I could afford
at their exorbitant prices. I made the best of it.
Once I discovered a place to buy real wood, I've never bought poplar there,
even though it's cheap. For what I was paying for S4S poplar (with wider
than 3" boards done as glue-ups, no less) I can afford a similar quantity
of walnut. Let's see, walnut is available. What wood do I want?
Duhhhhhhh. :)
It hasn't saved me a dime finding a cheaper source of wood. :)
I really need to look elsewhere still, but I guess I don't care enough to
drive out to some yonder (Bedford, say) or fool with mail ordering or
whatever. I don't think I would build much more, or much bigger stuff than
I do if I had a whole tree cut up and stacked somewhere, and somewhere to
stack a whole tree. I have a little bitty shop, and I favor either purely
utilitarian projects made out of whatever crap salvage I can scrounge (my
Frankenstein music stand, or trebuchet, say) or else I do small projects in
(predominantly) walnut that take me weeks or months to complete.
I'm not really aiming to do things faster, or put more wood through the shop
just to be doing things in a hurry, and I don't mind doing a little bit to
ensure I can continue to go buy wood on the other side of town whenever I
want to, even if their prices are high.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 19:42:02 -0500, Silvan
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Charlie Self wrote:
>
>> much is HD getting for their S4S? Enough to float a loan for a hand plane?
>> It planes easily.
>
>Probably easier'n every other wood, soft or hard. Planing poplar doesn't
>even count as practicing.
That's why it makes great drawer sides, second only to basswood in my
book.
Barry
On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 09:51:16 -0500, "Cox West" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>My brother is a finish carpenter. He commented recently that he rarely uses
>cherry anymore for a library, but instead uses poplar.
Wow. Is the job sold at a much lower price than cherry?
At least he could use birch or maple. Poplar isn't all that durable.
Barry
I never thought of poplar as a very desirable wood for staining, at least
until recently. My son, a construction superentendent, just finished an
office mall and the architect called for dark cherry red stained poplar for
a confrence room door, base and chair rail trim. My son balked but the
architect told him to have the finisher do it to specs and it looks great!