I'm fixin'ta lay 300 square of #2 Red Oak T&G strip flooring in the kids
playroom. It will be finished with Bysakhi Button shellac, of course.
The finishing schedule I plan to folow is:
1/2 pound cut
<lightly sand floor>
1/2 pound cut
<lightly sand floor>
1 pound cut
2 pound cut
2 pound cut
allowing a week to dry between coats
My primary question what might be the best way to apply said shellac.
I'm thinking that given such a large area I might be best to use a small
spaghetti mop.
ADubya wrote:
>
> I have had quite a few pieces brought to my shop for water damage (eg:
> something that would resemble the circumference of a frosty beer mug),
More than likely wax. Beer, wine, and even mixed drinks are far dillute to
damage shellac unless it's left to set for a long long time (days). Dog/cat
urine on the other hand, pretty much cuts right into it. DAMHIKT. I would
imagine kid pee will do the same.
> and
> touch-ups for high use areas (where one would constantly touch, rub etc).
Heh. At least shellac (and lacquer) is touchupable. Is that a word?
>
> What does one use on a shellac finished floor for regular day to
day...week
> to week cleaning?
Murphy's oil soap works pretty good.
> Buffing?
Johnson's floor wax?
I could see it in an adult oriented (lol..get
> your mind out of the gutter) atmosphere, with no pets, children, UV
> concerns, and everyone wearing nicely personalized knitted slippers.......
Actually, there are a lot of good reasons not to wear shoes in the house,
floor maintenaince not being the least consideration. Ever been to Hawaii?
Piles of sandals at front and back doors, including some allocated for
guests.
>
> Very cool. Something new to consider and investigate further.
Hope this furthered things.
Of course it's a trade-off. Select a durable, yet maintainable finish? Or
choose one that's really really durable, but really tough to fix once it's
damaged (and EVERY finish will get damaged).
Humble submitted,
O'Deen
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> J G wrote:
> > I'm fixin'ta lay 300 square of #2 Red Oak T&G strip flooring in the kids
> > playroom. It will be finished with Bysakhi Button shellac, of course.
> do you think that'll be tough enough for the kids floor?
Certainly! Not that I need to defend my choice to you or anybody else, I
will anyway. Perhaps someone may learn a thing or two:
Shellac was the traditional finished used on hardwood floors for centuries.
Good quality and freshly made shellac applied in thin coats is quite
resilient. And buffed out with paste wax it will offer a sheen, warm glow,
depth, and radiance to the wood unlike a Polly ever could.
The most important aspect of choosing it is that it can be fixed very easily
and quite invisibly should it get damaged, unlike a pollyurinstain finish.
On Sat, 26 Jun 2004 21:44:08 GMT, "J G" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"B a r r y" wrote in message > >allowing a week to dry between coats
>>
>> Do you really need a week between coats?
>
>Proboably not, but with the humidity this time of year in Memphis, it
>certainly can't hurt, to make sure it is fully cured.
>
Oh, it's you! <G>
How'd the pine floor come out? Have you been riding much down there?
Barry
"J G" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Shellac was the traditional finished used on hardwood floors for centuries.
They had servants and nurseries though. Historically (certainly for
upper-class England, where the good floors were) there was less
tendency to wear outdoor footwear indoors.
I just redid the floors in my hose which had shellac on them for the last 50
years. After years and years of kid use, furniture moving, etc.,
surprisingly resilient. Just my 2 cents.
--
Ken Gunter
Woodworker & CH-47D Pilot in Command
http://www.ch47.org
[email protected]
"A Dubya" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> > Certainly! Not that I need to defend my choice to you or anybody else, I
> > will anyway. Perhaps someone may learn a thing or two:
> >
> >Shellac was the traditional finished used on hardwood floors for
centuries.
>
> ....hmmm 5 applications of your defended choice. Let us known how it
holds
> up to spilled kiddy bev's, chairs/furniture being dragged across it, etc.
>
> I'm fairy sure, most floors of any value, in the past were either covered
> with an area carpet, or only laid in area's of little or no traffic(eg: a
> room had a visible outside border of hardwood, while the center was of
> cheaper material and covered with carpet).
>
> ummm...good luck, I'd use a large pad applicator on a pole.
>
> Cheers,
>
> aw
>
>
J G wrote:
> "B a r r y" wrote in message > >allowing a week to dry between coats
> >
> > Do you really need a week between coats?
>
> Proboably not, but with the humidity this time of year in Memphis, it
> certainly can't hurt, to make sure it is fully cured.
Shellac is an evaporative finish and does not cure. Additional coats can
be applied as soon as the solvent evaporates completely.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
J G wrote:
> "Nova" wrote in message
> > J G wrote:
> > > "B a r r y" wrote in message > >allowing a week to dry between coats
> > > > Do you really need a week between coats?
> > > Proboably not, but with the humidity this time of year in Memphis, it
> > > certainly can't hurt, to make sure it is fully cured.
> > Shellac is an evaporative finish and does not cure. Additional coats can
> > be applied as soon as the solvent evaporates completely.
>
> Without blushing?
I do most of my finishing in my basement where I have a hard time getting the
humidity below 60% even with a dehumidifier running full tilt 7/24. I've never
had a blushing problem. I will note that I only use dewaxed or decanted
shellac though.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Be careful what you use to clean/wax those floors. Ammonia is a no-no with
shellac, and a _lot_ of cleaners have ammonia. Seems acrylic waxes have a
bit of it or alcohols in 'em too.
"J G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mark L." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > If your gonna teach 'someone learn a thing or two' about shellac, why
> > are you asking us a basic question on how to apply it???
>
> Whoo BOY we got us a live one here. Better get the gaff!!!
>
> Because, I do not profess to know _everything_, and am not ashamed to ask
> for help/advice where appropriate.
> and this is certainly NOT a "basicquestion on how to apply it".
Application
> on large peices differs significanlty from small items as it is.... now
> factor in 300 square feet and the situation chages yet again... see what I
> mean?
>
>
"J G" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I'm fixin'ta lay 300 square of #2 Red Oak T&G strip flooring in the kids
> playroom. It will be finished with Bysakhi Button shellac, of course.
>
> The finishing schedule I plan to folow is:
> 1/2 pound cut
> <lightly sand floor>
> 1/2 pound cut
> <lightly sand floor>
> 1 pound cut
> 2 pound cut
> 2 pound cut
> allowing a week to dry between coats
You won't need to wait that long between coats. Two hours max. The
reason to allow shellac a week or so to dry is to let it get hard
enough for rubbing-out. As for application, you'll want to use a wool
applicator like you would for applying Mop-n-Glo (said to be
shellac-based). Just lay it down in smooth strips... no wiping back
and forth and such. You can fix problems later with a wood-backed
sanding block.
Refinishing, whether in five years or a hunnert, will be the same.
Sand smooth and apply more shellac.
O'Deen
"J G" <[email protected]> wrote in message :
> I'm fixin'ta lay 300 square of #2 Red Oak T&G strip flooring in the kids
> playroom. It will be finished with Bysakhi Button shellac, of course.
...
I've never finished anything large with shellac, so I really can't
help you. Except to offer a bit of advice that may be obvious -- make
sure you have good fresh shellac. This is brought to mind by
finishing on a little project I'm currently working on. Nice little
birdseye maple box with handcut mitered dovetails and a raised panel
top.
This evening I spent stripping the old gummy soft shellac and getting
ready to order a new batch. &^%*#$
"J G" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Mark L." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > If your gonna teach 'someone learn a thing or two' about shellac, why
> > are you asking us a basic question on how to apply it???
>
> Whoo BOY we got us a live one here. Better get the gaff!!!
>
> Because, I do not profess to know _everything_, and am not ashamed to ask
> for help/advice where appropriate.
> and this is certainly NOT a "basicquestion on how to apply it". Application
> on large peices differs significanlty from small items as it is.... now
> factor in 300 square feet and the situation chages yet again... see what I
> mean?
Me think JG = BAD
"Nova" wrote in message
> J G wrote:
> > "B a r r y" wrote in message > >allowing a week to dry between coats
> > > Do you really need a week between coats?
> > Proboably not, but with the humidity this time of year in Memphis, it
> > certainly can't hurt, to make sure it is fully cured.
> Shellac is an evaporative finish and does not cure. Additional coats can
> be applied as soon as the solvent evaporates completely.
Without blushing?
"Mark L." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> If your gonna teach 'someone learn a thing or two' about shellac, why
> are you asking us a basic question on how to apply it???
Whoo BOY we got us a live one here. Better get the gaff!!!
Because, I do not profess to know _everything_, and am not ashamed to ask
for help/advice where appropriate.
and this is certainly NOT a "basicquestion on how to apply it". Application
on large peices differs significanlty from small items as it is.... now
factor in 300 square feet and the situation chages yet again... see what I
mean?
J G wrote:
> I'm fixin'ta lay 300 square of #2 Red Oak T&G strip flooring in the kids
> playroom. It will be finished with Bysakhi Button shellac, of course.
>
> The finishing schedule I plan to folow is:
> 1/2 pound cut
> <lightly sand floor>
> 1/2 pound cut
> <lightly sand floor>
> 1 pound cut
> 2 pound cut
> 2 pound cut
> allowing a week to dry between coats
>
> My primary question what might be the best way to apply said shellac.
> I'm thinking that given such a large area I might be best to use a small
> spaghetti mop.
>
>
do you think that'll be tough enough for the kids floor?
dave
[email protected] (Yahoo) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Me think JG = BAD
>
Uhhh, no.
Patriarch
On Sat, 26 Jun 2004 17:49:05 GMT, "J G" <[email protected]> wrote:
>allowing a week to dry between coats
Do you really need a week between coats?
Barry
On Sun, 27 Jun 2004 13:40:27 GMT, "J G" <[email protected]> calmly
ranted:
>
>"Yahoo" wrote in message
>
>> Me think JG = BAD
>
>You obviously are new (relatively speaking) around these parts. Those who
>know me, would know better than to make such a statement.
So sign 'em "Spokie" and we'll all know. Also, please don't
reply to/converse with the bad guys.
============================================================
Help Save the Endangered Plumb Bobs From Becoming Extinct!
http://www.diversify.com/stees.html Hilarious T-shirts online
============================================================
"J G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Without blushing?
>
Only if I'm naked when applying it.
Ed
A Dubya, might I suggest: http://www.markjcooking.com/recipex.php/54672
"47Driver" wrote in message
> I just redid the floors in my hose which had shellac on them for the last
50
> years. After years and years of kid use, furniture moving, etc.,
> surprisingly resilient. Just my 2 cents.
> "A Dubya" wrote in message
> > ....hmmm 5 applications of your defended choice. Let us known how it
>> holds up to spilled kiddy bev's, chairs/furniture being dragged across
it, etc.
"B a r r y" wrote in message
> Oh, it's you! <G>
Aye, just getting settled in the new homestead, and getting my net accounts
set back up.
> How'd the pine floor come out?
Pine was the walls, Oak for the floors.
It's not up yet, schedule got a bit whacky in the last two weeks, between
finishing the house, work, college, and moving the contents of the house
South.
> Have you been riding much down there?
Recently, no. But the new house is 1.2 miles from Stanky Creek. It isn;t any
FOMBA but it's as close as one can get in this flat-land.
If your gonna teach 'someone learn a thing or two' about shellac, why
are you asking us a basic question on how to apply it??? Mark L.
snippage
>
> Certainly! Not that I need to defend my choice to you or anybody else, I
> will anyway. Perhaps someone may learn a thing or two:
>
> Shellac was the traditional finished used on hardwood floors for centuries.
>
> Good quality and freshly made shellac applied in thin coats is quite
> resilient. And buffed out with paste wax it will offer a sheen, warm glow,
> depth, and radiance to the wood unlike a Polly ever could.
>
> The most important aspect of choosing it is that it can be fixed very easily
> and quite invisibly should it get damaged, unlike a pollyurinstain finish.
>
>
On Mon, 28 Jun 2004 19:22:03 GMT, "J G" <[email protected]> calmly
ranted:
>"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> please don't reply to/converse with the bad guys.
>
>Occupational habit/hazard.
You're quick John. (I meant here on the Wreck.) <sigh>
------
We're born hungry, wet, 'n naked, and it gets worse from there.
- http://diversify.com Website Application Programming -
> Certainly! Not that I need to defend my choice to you or anybody else, I
> will anyway. Perhaps someone may learn a thing or two:
>
>Shellac was the traditional finished used on hardwood floors for centuries.
....hmmm 5 applications of your defended choice. Let us known how it holds
up to spilled kiddy bev's, chairs/furniture being dragged across it, etc.
I'm fairy sure, most floors of any value, in the past were either covered
with an area carpet, or only laid in area's of little or no traffic(eg: a
room had a visible outside border of hardwood, while the center was of
cheaper material and covered with carpet).
ummm...good luck, I'd use a large pad applicator on a pole.
Cheers,
aw
"J G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A Dubya, might I suggest: http://www.markjcooking.com/recipex.php/54672
lol.....served cold...or is that revenge?
I have had quite a few pieces brought to my shop for water damage (eg:
something that would resemble the circumference of a frosty beer mug), and
touch-ups for high use areas (where one would constantly touch, rub etc).
What does one use on a shellac finished floor for regular day to day...week
to week cleaning? Buffing? I could see it in an adult oriented (lol..get
your mind out of the gutter) atmosphere, with no pets, children, UV
concerns, and everyone wearing nicely personalized knitted slippers.......
Very cool. Something new to consider and investigate further.
Cheers,
aw
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> please don't reply to/converse with the bad guys.
Occupational habit/hazard.
--
J G
"bad boys, bad boys, wachya gonna do.....