I am building a gun cabinet and I have a couple questions.
The method, I want to use, to display my hand guns, is to have rods or
dowels that I could slide the barrel of the hand gun onto, suspending the
gun by the barrel.
What material should I use for the dowels? Can wood hold enough moisture to
rust the inside of the barrel, or would some type of plastic be a better
choice.
Now, I know we are all wood workers and not gun smiths, however, does any
one know if suspending a gun in this manner will do any damage to the gun?
On Jun 8, 5:05=A0pm, "ron" <capncapn2...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I am building a gun cabinet and I have a couple questions.
> The method, I want to use, to display my hand guns, is to have rods or
> dowels that I could slide the barrel of the hand gun onto, suspending the
> gun by the barrel.
> What material should I use for the dowels? Can wood hold enough moisture t=
o
> rust the inside of the barrel, or would some type of plastic be a better
> choice.
> Now, I know we are all wood workers and not gun smiths, however, does any
> one know if suspending a gun in this manner will do any damage to the gun?=
I would use oak for the dowels. Make sure you seal the wood with a few
coats of clear polyurethene, you should not get any mositure from the
wood.
Randy
http://nokeswoodworks.com
"Lee Michaels" wrote
> "Swingman" wrote
>>
>> Carried an M-79 with 40mm/#4 buckshot, by choice and in deadly earnest,
>> at
>> one point in my life. Dense vegetation will make you appreciate the
>> meaning
>> of "close quarters".
>>
> An uncle of mine did the same. Everybody looked out for him. He supplied
> some unique firepower that was appreciated by everybody else. Besides the
> VC like to target the grenade launcher guys.
>
> Weren't you an officer?
Yes ... 2nd looey at the time.
> Wasn't it unusual for an officer to carry a weapon like this?
At the time officers were generally issued both an M16 and a 45 pistol. On
advice from the guy (another Aggie, BTW) I replaced, I immediately "traded"
him my M16 for his M79 on my first assignment - FO (and the only American)
with an ARVN Ranger battalion ... otherwise known as that tall guy,
relatively speaking, in a sea of short people, AKA "The Target". :)
I quickly learned to appreciate his experienced based advice in the most
basic way ... as he also predicted. :) Besides, there were very few chances
in the Central Highlands for a 'deer hunting range' shot ... even by
Louisiana swamp standards.
When I took over an artillery battery later, I just carried the 45 most of
the time, but always went back to the M79 on patrols, or on firebases in the
boonies when we went mobile.
> Any reason you chose this weapon over a shotgun?
Shorter, _much_ lighter and easier to carry (slung under right arm and
naturally pointing wherever you were), which means a ton in a hot humid
climate that defies description. Despite their appearance, a bandolier of
buckshot rounds was also relatively light and comfortable to carry.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/14/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
LOL.
Also hope that, if you're home, the putative thief's blood splatters
will (or can be) matched with the existing finish on the cabinet and
floor. Refinishing is such a PITA. Holes in the cabinet will just add
a "touch of class".
Remember, hold center of mass, no need to get fancy.
Tom (also in Texas)
On Tue, 10 Jun 2008 21:11:46 -0500, "ron" <capncapn2000@yahoo.com>
wrote:
>I just hope the thief steals the guns and doesn't damage the cabinet. It was
>too much work to build.
>
1. What you're suggesting works fine. Most of my 20 odd handguns are
stored that way. Rusting has never been an issue.
2. I suggest you avoid oak dowels. Birch is better (tannic acid is
heavy in oak).
3. I finished mine with poly for abrasion resistance. The lands in a
rifled barrel are supposed to have sharp edges!
4. Give yourself some room. What you don't want is a tight fit of the
dowel in the barrel. 1/4 dowel in a .38 barrel is about right. I
haven't found wood dowels to work for .22s, so I use cut off pieces of
cleaning rod for them.
5. Weight should be an issue with MOST handguns, but I did go up to
3/8 dowel for my FA .454 Casul and a couple of Contenders..
I'm only an amateur gunsmith (i.e. I don't get paid for it). See
http://web2.airmail.net/xleanone/index.html/Gun%20Stock/
for an eample of my work.
Regards.
Tom
On Sun, 8 Jun 2008 17:05:47 -0500, "ron" <capncapn2000@yahoo.com>
wrote:
>I am building a gun cabinet and I have a couple questions.
>The method, I want to use, to display my hand guns, is to have rods or
>dowels that I could slide the barrel of the hand gun onto, suspending the
>gun by the barrel.
>What material should I use for the dowels? Can wood hold enough moisture to
>rust the inside of the barrel, or would some type of plastic be a better
>choice.
>Now, I know we are all wood workers and not gun smiths, however, does any
>one know if suspending a gun in this manner will do any damage to the gun?
>
"ron" wrote:
> You know, I hadn't given a thought to the legality of a gun cabinet.
> Living in Texas, I can't imagine anything to do with private
> ownership of guns to be illegal...yet.
> As far as theft goes, I know a gun cabinet is not very secure,
> however, I do not have any irreplaceable firearms.
> I just hope the thief steals the guns and doesn't damage the
> cabinet. It was too much work to build.
If you keep the ammo in a secure locker, locked with a lock that has
only your key along all weapons being kept unloaded and secured with
trigger locks, you will have gone a long way towards limiting your
potential liability.
Lew
ron wrote:
> I am building a gun cabinet and I have a couple questions.
> The method, I want to use, to display my hand guns, is to have rods or
> dowels that I could slide the barrel of the hand gun onto, suspending
> the gun by the barrel.
> What material should I use for the dowels? Can wood hold enough
> moisture to rust the inside of the barrel, or would some type of
> plastic be a better choice.
> Now, I know we are all wood workers and not gun smiths, however, does
> any one know if suspending a gun in this manner will do any damage to
> the gun?
In some parts of the country wood & glass gun cases have disappeared from
stores because of safe storage laws, they are not considered secure enough
to prevent unauthorized access and/or theft of the weapons. Have you
checked the law in your area in that regard?
"Swingman" <kac@nospam.com> wrote
>
> Carried an M-79 with 40mm/#4 buckshot, by choice and in deadly earnest, at
> one point in my life. Dense vegetation will make you appreciate the
> meaning
> of "close quarters".
>
An uncle of mine did the same. Everybody looked out for him. He supplied
some unique firepower that was appreciated by everybody else. Besides the VC
like to target the grenade launcher guys.
Weren't you an officer?
Wasn't it unusual for an officer to carry a weapon like this?
Any reason you chose this weapon over a shotgun?
"Swingman" wrote:
> Carried an M-79 with 40mm/#4 buckshot, by choice and in deadly
> earnest, at
> one point in my life. Dense vegetation will make you appreciate the
> meaning
> of "close quarters".
Should I choose to once again have a weapon for close quarters use, it
would be a simple choice:
A sawed off, double barreled, 10 ga, shot gun with 00 buck shot in the
1st barrel and a cross cut, rifled slug in the other (Behaves just
like a hollow point).
Shoot 1st, if necessary,ask questions after it has been determined
there are no survivors.
Legality of the weapon is for the lawyers to sort out.
Lew
"ron" wrote
> Tom I like the way you think. One question though. Does the "hold center
> mass" rule apply to the first shot only,or does it mean the whole
magazine?
> I have to tell you, if I catch some poor idiot in my home, the first shot
> will be center mass, but I will proceed to get fancy.
Shotgun, buckshot ... no need to get fancy.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/14/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"ron" <capncapn2000@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:-_qdnQMVP6MqytHVnZ2dnUVZ_qXinZ2d@trueband.net...
>I am building a gun cabinet and I have a couple questions.
> The method, I want to use, to display my hand guns, is to have rods or
> dowels that I could slide the barrel of the hand gun onto, suspending the
> gun by the barrel.
> What material should I use for the dowels? Can wood hold enough moisture
> to rust the inside of the barrel, or would some type of plastic be a
> better choice.
> Now, I know we are all wood workers and not gun smiths, however, does any
> one know if suspending a gun in this manner will do any damage to the gun?
>
>
I would strongly resist using wood in the barrel. I would go with plastic.
Wood could expand with temperature changes, cause rust with a moisture or
natural content release.
Perhaps, use a cleaning rod/brush in the correct caliber to firmly hold the
gun in place.
"Tom B" wrote
> The big advantage of the scatter gun is that the sound of a slide
> racking is unique, recognized by most evil-doers, and normally causes
> involuntary soiling of the drawers before the high speed exit. Makes
> 'em easier to track, don't you know.
Carried an M-79 with 40mm/#4 buckshot, by choice and in deadly earnest, at
one point in my life. Dense vegetation will make you appreciate the meaning
of "close quarters".
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/14/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Swingman" wrote
>
> Shorter, _much_ lighter and easier to carry (slung under right arm and
> naturally pointing wherever you were), which means a ton in a hot humid
> climate that defies description. Despite their appearance, a bandolier of
> buckshot rounds was also relatively light and comfortable to carry.
>
This is the BIG 120 mm version of that round.
http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/systems/munitions/m1028.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cgn1nhUEgo8
Tom:
Considering some of the work you do, I accept that as a high
compliment. Thank you.
Tom
On Mon, 09 Jun 2008 21:13:25 -0400, Tom Watson <notme@erehwon.com>
wrote:
>
>I gotta tell you -that is one beautiful son of a bitch!
>
>
>
>
>Regards,
>
>Tom
>
>Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
>tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
>www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
Tim, Tom, WTH. I've been called worse.
One of my old Army NCOs in 'Nam had a remarkable command of Anglo
Saxon venacular and was quite willing to use it on and to a young
"butter bar", appropriately prefixed and suffixed with the required
honorific - "sir". I learned a lot from that guy, some of which I'm
still able to use in impolite company. For the rest, he kept me and
most of my guys alive. That's a goodness.
Anyway Ron, thanks.
Tom
On Mon, 9 Jun 2008 20:58:15 -0500, "ron" <capncapn2000@yahoo.com>
wrote:
>Sorry Tim And Tom I got your names mixed up.
>Good job Tom.
>I guess these old eyes need stronger glasses.
>
Ron:
I prefer to keep shooting at the big pieces until I'm sure no more
rounds are required. I try not to empty the magazine. If I have to do
so, it's not just a bad guy, it's an f'ing war. I do concur with
Swingman's response (which follows) as well, but still hold COM even
with buckshot.
BTW, forget 00 buck, #2 buck penetrates adequately at "in the house"
range, has plenty of knock-down power and leaves more but smaller
holes in furniture - you know, the kind that look like pecky wood.
With my 10 Gauge I stuff about 40 #2's vs 12 00 in a 3 1/2" shell.
The big advantage of the scatter gun is that the sound of a slide
racking is unique, recognized by most evil-doers, and normally causes
involuntary soiling of the drawers before the high speed exit. Makes
'em easier to track, don't you know.
Regards.
On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:02:47 -0500, "ron" <capncapn2000@yahoo.com>
wrote:
>Tom I like the way you think. One question though. Does the "hold center
>mass" rule apply to the first shot only,or does it mean the whole magazine?
>I have to tell you, if I catch some poor idiot in my home, the first shot
>will be center mass, but I will proceed to get fancy.
>
On Mon, 09 Jun 2008 11:42:10 -0500, Tom B
<xleanone@nospam.mail.airmail.net> wrote:
>I'm only an amateur gunsmith (i.e. I don't get paid for it). See
>
>http://web2.airmail.net/xleanone/index.html/Gun%20Stock/
>
>for an eample of my work.
Nice looking stock. I've always wanted to try making a custom stock,
but the cost of nice stock wood has put me off.
--
"We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
Lee Michaels wrote:
>
> "Swingman" wrote
>>
>> Shorter, _much_ lighter and easier to carry (slung under right arm and
>> naturally pointing wherever you were), which means a ton in a hot humid
>> climate that defies description. Despite their appearance, a bandolier of
>> buckshot rounds was also relatively light and comfortable to carry.
>>
>
> This is the BIG 120 mm version of that round.
>
> http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/systems/munitions/m1028.htm
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cgn1nhUEgo8
I'm not sure that's going to fit in his gun cabinet. Probably not even in
the garage.
--
If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough
Ah ya, the good old days. I preferred the M-79 flechette rounds, but
#4 buck does the trick at "CQ".
Too few of us left.
Regards.
Tom
On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 12:16:17 -0500, "Swingman" <kac@nospam.com> wrote:
>
>Carried an M-79 with 40mm/#4 buckshot, by choice and in deadly earnest, at
>one point in my life. Dense vegetation will make you appreciate the meaning
>of "close quarters".
On Mon, 09 Jun 2008 18:22:43 -0500, Tom B
<xleanone@nospam.mail.airmail.net> wrote:
>Thanks.
>
>The blank can a bit costly (I paid about $250 for that one), but the
>results can be unique. That stock fits my skinny face like a glove.
>The big scope required a high mount, so the high comb was necessary if
>I wanted a normal cheek weld. You can't buy the fit, you've gotta make
>it.
>
>The barrel is a Douglass, the action a Rem 700 lapped and polished -
>smooth as glass. The trigger is a Timmney, no more need be said, and
>breaks at 1.75#. It shoots to .5 off a lead sled (I can't hold that
>tight by hand).
Sweet. I'm in the process of trying to sort out some stock/bedding
issues on an old Parker-Hale 22/250 I just got. Terrible vertical
stringing. I have a Timmney trigger in the plans for it as well if I
can get it grouping better.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
Definition of a teenager: God's punishment for enjoying sex.
Tim:
22/250 is famous for eating barrels. You say it's old. PH makes good
barrels (or did), but. You've probably already done so, but take a
GOOD look at the lands. It's bore scope time - before time and money
are spent trying to fix the irreparable.
If it's only stringing vertically, try increasing the pressure on the
front end of the barrel. I've used something as simple as a piece of
card stock in the muzzle end of the barrel channel to see if
additional (or any) pressure out there helps. If it does, you can
build up a pressure point with epoxy, bed the barrel it, and away you
go.
I always do that first, because rebedding the action to the forcing
cone may not do squat if the barrel is whipping around forward of
there.
Regards.
Tom
On Tue, 10 Jun 2008 10:16:40 -0700, Tim Douglass
<tdouglass@bendcable.com> wrote:
>Sweet. I'm in the process of trying to sort out some stock/bedding
>issues on an old Parker-Hale 22/250 I just got. Terrible vertical
>stringing. I have a Timmney trigger in the plans for it as well if I
>can get it grouping better.
>
>Tim Douglass
>
>http://www.DouglassClan.com
>
>Definition of a teenager: God's punishment for enjoying sex.
On Tue, 10 Jun 2008 16:42:14 -0500, Tom B
<xleanone@nospam.mail.airmail.net> wrote:
>Tim:
>
>22/250 is famous for eating barrels. You say it's old. PH makes good
>barrels (or did), but. You've probably already done so, but take a
>GOOD look at the lands. It's bore scope time - before time and money
>are spent trying to fix the irreparable.
>
>If it's only stringing vertically, try increasing the pressure on the
>front end of the barrel. I've used something as simple as a piece of
>card stock in the muzzle end of the barrel channel to see if
>additional (or any) pressure out there helps. If it does, you can
>build up a pressure point with epoxy, bed the barrel it, and away you
>go.
>
>I always do that first, because rebedding the action to the forcing
>cone may not do squat if the barrel is whipping around forward of
>there.
Thanks for the input on that, Tom. The rifle is oldish (1976) but has
probably not had more than a couple hundred shots through it. I put 50
or so through it a couple weeks ago trying to get it sorted out and
they pretty much doubled the wear showing on the feed ramp and
magazine follower.
My best results with it were two shots touching and a third about 4"
high. I think the first shot was always the high one. I tightened the
action screws and it changed to more of all three shots in a vertical
line. Unfortunately the wind came up at that point and all results
became pretty unreliable.
The barrel channel in the stock is odd. It is really set up for a
pressure-pad at the fore-end, but the channel doesn't match the barrel
contour well, so it is more like a V, with the barrel only touching at
the sides. My first thought was to free-float it, but it is a fairly
thin contour barrel, so maybe I'll do the pressure pad and see what
happens. This rifle is an indulgence because I have an identical one
in 30/06. I want the 22/250 to shoot well, but it is more about having
a matched set than a tack driver.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
"I'm not exactly burned out, but I'm a little bit scorched and there's some smoke damage."
randyswoodshoop wrote:
> On Jun 8, 5:05Â pm, "ron" <capncapn2...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> I am building a gun cabinet and I have a couple questions.
>> The method, I want to use, to display my hand guns, is to have rods or
>> dowels that I could slide the barrel of the hand gun onto, suspending the
>> gun by the barrel.
>> What material should I use for the dowels? Can wood hold enough moisture
>> to rust the inside of the barrel, or would some type of plastic be a
>> better choice.
>> Now, I know we are all wood workers and not gun smiths, however, does any
>> one know if suspending a gun in this manner will do any damage to the
>> gun?
>
> I would use oak for the dowels. Make sure you seal the wood with a few
> coats of clear polyurethene, you should not get any mositure from the
> wood.
>
> Randy
> http://nokeswoodworks.com
Wouldn't the tannic acid (if you are using red oak) be a problem?
--
If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough
Thanks.
The blank can a bit costly (I paid about $250 for that one), but the
results can be unique. That stock fits my skinny face like a glove.
The big scope required a high mount, so the high comb was necessary if
I wanted a normal cheek weld. You can't buy the fit, you've gotta make
it.
The barrel is a Douglass, the action a Rem 700 lapped and polished -
smooth as glass. The trigger is a Timmney, no more need be said, and
breaks at 1.75#. It shoots to .5 off a lead sled (I can't hold that
tight by hand).
Regards.
Tom
>
>Nice looking stock. I've always wanted to try making a custom stock,
>but the cost of nice stock wood has put me off.
You know, I hadn't given a thought to the legality of a gun cabinet.
Living in Texas, I can't imagine anything to do with private ownership of
guns to be illegal...yet.
As far as theft goes, I know a gun cabinet is not very secure, however, I do
not have any irreplaceable firearms.
I just hope the thief steals the guns and doesn't damage the cabinet. It was
too much work to build.