Ok, so I buy the cheaper Craftsman jointer
I will be buying rough cut lumber and will
want to face joint one side of it before planning Will there
be much difference between the Craftsman
and the Jet for doing this, Not counting the longer
base of the Jet. I want what ever I buy to be able to
do the job I want. I know you get what you pay for,
but sometimes we buy more than we need too.
At my age, 62, I am not going to be doing this as
production, but something I want to enjoy and not get
frustrated with either. That's happened with some
more economic tools I've used.
cc
"PDQ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
"CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Thanks again everyone,
> I don't anticipate doing anything longer than 6' and
> don't have the room for an 8" jointer. Most of what I
> do will probably be in the shorter sizes, maybe once in a
> while something longer, but it may work out for that
> using roller stands. I think the smaller jointer will work
> for what I mostly will be doing. I have a new Craftsman
> hybrid saw with a 50" table that takes up a lot of room on a mobile
> base and this will have to have one too. I have a 1 1/2 car garage
> as my shop area so everything needs to be able to move around.
> CC
>
>Not to start this up again, but, I just received the current issue of WOOD
>magazine (issue 189) and contained in it on page 54 is a comparison of >6"
>jointers.
The next issue of Fine Wood Working magazine will have a cover article "Mill
wide boards on a small jointer."
How do I know this? I just made my cover pick again! I was batting 1,000 on
my choices until the last two issues... ;~)
John
"CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, so I buy the cheaper Craftsman jointer
> I will be buying rough cut lumber and will want to face joint one side of
> it before planning Will there
> be much difference between the Craftsman
> and the Jet for doing this, Not counting the longer
> base of the Jet. I want what ever I buy to be able to
> do the job I want. I know you get what you pay for,
> but sometimes we buy more than we need too.
> At my age, 62, I am not going to be doing this as
> production, but something I want to enjoy and not get
> frustrated with either. That's happened with some
> more economic tools I've used.
> cc
After reading some of the advice so far, think through what you are going to
build and what the longest piece you will *normally* need to handle will be.
For me, anything I'm going to *usually* make which will require jointing is
going to be no more than about 6' long. My 6" jointer is all I've needed
for a bunch of years. And, it's all I can see needing for a lot more.
Don't gauge what you need on someone else's requirements. As someone else
alluded to, sometimes we buy a lot more than what we need.
Ed
"John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>> "CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> Ok, so I buy the cheaper Craftsman jointer
>>> I will be buying rough cut lumber and will want to face joint one side
>>> of it before planning Will there
>>> be much difference between the Craftsman
>>> and the Jet for doing this, Not counting the longer
>>> base of the Jet. I want what ever I buy to be able to
>>> do the job I want. I know you get what you pay for,
>>> but sometimes we buy more than we need too.
>>> At my age, 62, I am not going to be doing this as
>>> production, but something I want to enjoy and not get
>>> frustrated with either. That's happened with some
>>> more economic tools I've used.
>>> cc
>>
>> After reading some of the advice so far, think through what you are going
>> to build and what the longest piece you will *normally* need to handle
>> will be. For me, anything I'm going to *usually* make which will require
>> jointing is going to be no more than about 6' long. My 6" jointer is all
>> I've needed for a bunch of years. And, it's all I can see needing for a
>> lot more. Don't gauge what you need on someone else's requirements. As
>> someone else alluded to, sometimes we buy a lot more than what we need.
>
> The only thing I'd add to that is how wide is the stock you usually use?
> I've used a bunch of 8" wide white oak lately... it "just" fit on my 8"
> jointer for face jointing as the rough cut edges wandered a bit. I'd
> really like to have a 12" jointer. ;~)
>
> John
>
> ...ever notice how from the side jointers resemble boats (sail boat hull,
> or perhaps a ship such as an aircraft carrier)? There is that unending
> quest for a bigger boat... I mean jointer. ;~)
I have had the difference between "want" and "need" explained more than
once. Luckily one member of my household has intelligence. So far, my 6"
planer hasn't kept me from doing something I wanted to do. I really want to
get a 12" thickness planer. (Note word usage there... "want".)
Ed
John Grossbohlin wrote:
>
> "Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>> "CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> Ok, so I buy the cheaper Craftsman jointer
>>> I will be buying rough cut lumber and will want to face joint one
>>> side of it before planning Will there
>>> be much difference between the Craftsman
>>> and the Jet for doing this, Not counting the longer
>>> base of the Jet. I want what ever I buy to be able to
>>> do the job I want. I know you get what you pay for,
>>> but sometimes we buy more than we need too.
>>> At my age, 62, I am not going to be doing this as
>>> production, but something I want to enjoy and not get
>>> frustrated with either. That's happened with some
>>> more economic tools I've used.
>>> cc
>>
>> After reading some of the advice so far, think through what you are
>> going to build and what the longest piece you will *normally* need to
>> handle will be. For me, anything I'm going to *usually* make which
>> will require jointing is going to be no more than about 6' long. My
>> 6" jointer is all I've needed for a bunch of years. And, it's all I
>> can see needing for a lot more. Don't gauge what you need on someone
>> else's requirements. As someone else alluded to, sometimes we buy a
>> lot more than what we need.
>
> The only thing I'd add to that is how wide is the stock you usually use?
> I've used a bunch of 8" wide white oak lately... it "just" fit on my 8"
> jointer for face jointing as the rough cut edges wandered a bit. I'd
> really like to have a 12" jointer. ;~)
>
> John
>
> ...ever notice how from the side jointers resemble boats (sail boat
> hull, or perhaps a ship such as an aircraft carrier)? There is that
> unending quest for a bigger boat... I mean jointer. ;~)
You can face joint up to 9 or 10" wide stock on a 6" jointer. Remove
the guard and joint a 6" wide flat part, kind of like a 6" wide shallow
rabbet. Place the flattened 6" wide jointed part on a 6" wide piece of
ply at least as long as your board and run it through your planer,
flattening the other side. Now run the jointed side up through your
planer and flatten/thickness the board.
"CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, so I buy the cheaper Craftsman jointer
> I will be buying rough cut lumber and will want to face joint one side of
> it before planning Will there
> be much difference between the Craftsman
> and the Jet for doing this, Not counting the longer
> base of the Jet. I want what ever I buy to be able to
> do the job I want. I know you get what you pay for,
> but sometimes we buy more than we need too.
> At my age, 62, I am not going to be doing this as
> production, but something I want to enjoy and not get
> frustrated with either. That's happened with some
> more economic tools I've used.
> cc
Simply put the longer the beds are on a jointer, the longer the board you
can straighten or flatten. Typically you can pretty and successfully mill a
board in the 4'-5' length range with a 6"-8" jointer.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:DIq8l.704$%[email protected]...
>
>
> Simply put the longer the beds are on a jointer, the longer the board you
> can straighten or flatten. Typically you can pretty and successfully mill
> a board in the 4'-5' length range with a 6"-8" jointer.
>
One more thought on this subject. IMHO standard length stock, 8' and longer
is too long to easily successfully mill on a 6"-8" jointer. IMHO these
sized jointers work better on "scrap" sized pieces of stock or stock that is
cut to approximate shorter finish length prior to jointing. Personally I
don't like to use the jointer in the middle of a project or after cutting
stock to approximate required length. I want to prep all of my stock prior
to cutting the wood to length.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Mon, 05 Jan 2009 10:46:22 -0600, Leon wrote:
>>
>>> One more thought on this subject. IMHO standard length stock, 8'
>>> and
>>> longer is too long to easily successfully mill on a 6"-8" jointer.
>>> IMHO
>>> these sized jointers work better on "scrap" sized pieces of stock
>>> or
>>> stock that is cut to approximate shorter finish length prior to
>>> jointing. Personally I don't like to use the jointer in the
>>> middle of a
>>> project or after cutting stock to approximate required length. I
>>> want
>>> to prep all of my stock prior to cutting the wood to length.
>>
>> OTOH, if an otherwise nice board is bowed, cutting it into 2 or 3
>> parts
>> before face jointing it saves a lot of wood :-).
>
>
> Absolutely correct!
Thanks again everyone,
I don't anticipate doing anything longer than 6' and
don't have the room for an 8" jointer. Most of what I
do will probably be in the shorter sizes, maybe once in a
while something longer, but it may work out for that
using roller stands. I think the smaller jointer will work
for what I mostly will be doing. I have a new Craftsman
hybrid saw with a 50" table that takes up a lot of room on a mobile
base and this will have to have one too. I have a 1 1/2 car garage
as my shop area so everything needs to be able to move around.
CC
"CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, so I buy the cheaper Craftsman jointer
> I will be buying rough cut lumber and will want to face joint one side of it
> before planning Will there
> be much difference between the Craftsman
> and the Jet for doing this, Not counting the longer
> base of the Jet. I want what ever I buy to be able to
> do the job I want. I know you get what you pay for,
> but sometimes we buy more than we need too.
> At my age, 62, I am not going to be doing this as
> production, but something I want to enjoy and not get
> frustrated with either. That's happened with some
> more economic tools I've used.
Many of us have learned that the only day you enjoy a cheap tool is the day you
pay for it. If you can afford it, go for the better jointer. I bought a 8"
North State jointer a few years ago and while I seldom need its full capacity, I
always enjoy using it.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com
"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 05 Jan 2009 10:46:22 -0600, Leon wrote:
>
>> One more thought on this subject. IMHO standard length stock, 8' and
>> longer is too long to easily successfully mill on a 6"-8" jointer. IMHO
>> these sized jointers work better on "scrap" sized pieces of stock or
>> stock that is cut to approximate shorter finish length prior to
>> jointing. Personally I don't like to use the jointer in the middle of a
>> project or after cutting stock to approximate required length. I want
>> to prep all of my stock prior to cutting the wood to length.
>
> OTOH, if an otherwise nice board is bowed, cutting it into 2 or 3 parts
> before face jointing it saves a lot of wood :-).
Absolutely correct!
"Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> "CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Ok, so I buy the cheaper Craftsman jointer
>> I will be buying rough cut lumber and will want to face joint one side of
>> it before planning Will there
>> be much difference between the Craftsman
>> and the Jet for doing this, Not counting the longer
>> base of the Jet. I want what ever I buy to be able to
>> do the job I want. I know you get what you pay for,
>> but sometimes we buy more than we need too.
>> At my age, 62, I am not going to be doing this as
>> production, but something I want to enjoy and not get
>> frustrated with either. That's happened with some
>> more economic tools I've used.
>> cc
>
> After reading some of the advice so far, think through what you are going
> to build and what the longest piece you will *normally* need to handle
> will be. For me, anything I'm going to *usually* make which will require
> jointing is going to be no more than about 6' long. My 6" jointer is all
> I've needed for a bunch of years. And, it's all I can see needing for a
> lot more. Don't gauge what you need on someone else's requirements. As
> someone else alluded to, sometimes we buy a lot more than what we need.
The only thing I'd add to that is how wide is the stock you usually use?
I've used a bunch of 8" wide white oak lately... it "just" fit on my 8"
jointer for face jointing as the rough cut edges wandered a bit. I'd really
like to have a 12" jointer. ;~)
John
...ever notice how from the side jointers resemble boats (sail boat hull, or
perhaps a ship such as an aircraft carrier)? There is that unending quest
for a bigger boat... I mean jointer. ;~)
"Doug Winterburn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> John Grossbohlin wrote:
>>
>> "Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>
>>> "CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> Ok, so I buy the cheaper Craftsman jointer
>>>> I will be buying rough cut lumber and will want to face joint one
>>>> side of it before planning Will there
>>>> be much difference between the Craftsman
>>>> and the Jet for doing this, Not counting the longer
>>>> base of the Jet. I want what ever I buy to be able to
>>>> do the job I want. I know you get what you pay for,
>>>> but sometimes we buy more than we need too.
>>>> At my age, 62, I am not going to be doing this as
>>>> production, but something I want to enjoy and not get
>>>> frustrated with either. That's happened with some
>>>> more economic tools I've used.
>>>> cc
>>>
>>> After reading some of the advice so far, think through what you
>>> are
>>> going to build and what the longest piece you will *normally* need
>>> to
>>> handle will be. For me, anything I'm going to *usually* make which
>>> will require jointing is going to be no more than about 6' long.
>>> My
>>> 6" jointer is all I've needed for a bunch of years. And, it's all
>>> I
>>> can see needing for a lot more. Don't gauge what you need on
>>> someone
>>> else's requirements. As someone else alluded to, sometimes we buy
>>> a
>>> lot more than what we need.
>>
>> The only thing I'd add to that is how wide is the stock you usually
>> use?
>> I've used a bunch of 8" wide white oak lately... it "just" fit on
>> my 8"
>> jointer for face jointing as the rough cut edges wandered a bit.
>> I'd
>> really like to have a 12" jointer. ;~)
>>
>> John
>>
>> ...ever notice how from the side jointers resemble boats (sail boat
>> hull, or perhaps a ship such as an aircraft carrier)? There is that
>> unending quest for a bigger boat... I mean jointer. ;~)
>
> You can face joint up to 9 or 10" wide stock on a 6" jointer.
> Remove
> the guard and joint a 6" wide flat part, kind of like a 6" wide
> shallow
> rabbet. Place the flattened 6" wide jointed part on a 6" wide piece
> of
> ply at least as long as your board and run it through your planer,
> flattening the other side. Now run the jointed side up through your
> planer and flatten/thickness the board.
Now that's good to know, I'll remember it
thanks Doug
CC
"PDQ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
"CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Thanks again everyone,
> I don't anticipate doing anything longer than 6' and
> don't have the room for an 8" jointer. Most of what I
> do will probably be in the shorter sizes, maybe once in a
> while something longer, but it may work out for that
> using roller stands. I think the smaller jointer will work
> for what I mostly will be doing. I have a new Craftsman
> hybrid saw with a 50" table that takes up a lot of room on a mobile
> base and this will have to have one too. I have a 1 1/2 car garage
> as my shop area so everything needs to be able to move around.
> CC
>
Not to start this up again, but, I just received the current issue of
WOOD magazine (issue 189) and contained in it on page 54 is a
comparison of 6" jointers.
Might be worth it to grab an issue just to see what is recommended.
Best Buy - Grizzly G604X at $575 (has its own wheels)
Top Value - Rigid JP0610 at $430
P D Q
This I wrote down.I didn't want to forget it while in Lowe's
getting light bulbs or some such for the wife
CC
John Grossbohlin wrote:
>
> "Doug Winterburn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> John Grossbohlin wrote:
>>>
>
>>> The only thing I'd add to that is how wide is the stock you usually use?
>>> I've used a bunch of 8" wide white oak lately... it "just" fit on my 8"
>>> jointer for face jointing as the rough cut edges wandered a bit. I'd
>>> really like to have a 12" jointer. ;~)
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> ...ever notice how from the side jointers resemble boats (sail boat
>>> hull, or perhaps a ship such as an aircraft carrier)? There is that
>>> unending quest for a bigger boat... I mean jointer. ;~)
>>
>> You can face joint up to 9 or 10" wide stock on a 6" jointer. Remove
>> the guard and joint a 6" wide flat part, kind of like a 6" wide shallow
>> rabbet. Place the flattened 6" wide jointed part on a 6" wide piece of
>> ply at least as long as your board and run it through your planer,
>> flattening the other side. Now run the jointed side up through your
>> planer and flatten/thickness the board.
>
> I'd heard of that process before and it has merit... particularly if
> there is a lot of face jointing to do. In my case, on the occasions I
> work with stock wider than 8" it's usually shorter pieces and small
> quantities and I use my hand planes. Still, I'd like a 12", or wider,
> jointer. ;~)
>
> John
>
>
Yup, me too. But one of those aircraft carriers would be about 2/3 out
of my gar^H^H^Hshop door.
CC wrote:
>> You can face joint up to 9 or 10" wide stock on a 6" jointer. Remove
>> the guard and joint a 6" wide flat part, kind of like a 6" wide shallow
>> rabbet. Place the flattened 6" wide jointed part on a 6" wide piece of
>> ply at least as long as your board and run it through your planer,
>> flattening the other side. Now run the jointed side up through your
>> planer and flatten/thickness the board.
>
> Now that's good to know, I'll remember it
> thanks Doug
> CC
Oh, just like that, huh? You'll just *remember* it. What a show off.
Now where did I put that damn PENCIL!? :-)
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
"David G. Nagel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> CC wrote:
>>
>> "Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> CC wrote:
>>>>> You can face joint up to 9 or 10" wide stock on a 6" jointer.
>>>>> Remove
>>>>> the guard and joint a 6" wide flat part, kind of like a 6" wide
>>>>> shallow
>>>>> rabbet. Place the flattened 6" wide jointed part on a 6" wide
>>>>> piece of
>>>>> ply at least as long as your board and run it through your
>>>>> planer,
>>>>> flattening the other side. Now run the jointed side up through
>>>>> your
>>>>> planer and flatten/thickness the board.
>>>>
>>>> Now that's good to know, I'll remember it
>>>> thanks Doug
>>>> CC
>>>
>>> Oh, just like that, huh? You'll just *remember* it. What a show
>>> off.
>>>
>>> Now where did I put that damn PENCIL!? :-)
>>>
>>> --
>>> See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
>>> To reply, eat the taco.
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
>>
>> Once you retire, you no longer have to remember things
>> like getting up to go to work, and which road if going to be
>> closed this week , not to mention all the rest.. Makes it a lot
>> easier
>> to remember the good things
>> hehehe
>> CC
>
> I have found that I NEED a calendar to tell the day of the week let
> alone the date....
Hell, I can't even find the day of the week on the calendar anymore,,,
The only way I know when it is Thursday, is when the neighbors
set out their trashcans to be emptied the next day. If I don't notice
mine doesn't get picked up.
I quit wearing a watch when I stopped working,,, The only way I know
it's time to
get up in the morning is when the cats drag the covers off me so I
will
get up and feed the little critters. Cats have a built in alarm clock
CC
In issue 168 (Feb/Mar 2006) of WOOD there is a comparison of various 8" =
jointers.
Why buy:
1. Face joint rough cut lumber in common widths for furniture or =
cabinets.
2. Longer stock. Roughly 1.5 times length of bed about 9 ' =
compared to 6'
3. Less motor strain.
It may be too much if
1. You have a small shop. Usually about 6' long and up to 2' deep =
plus another 6 to 7 feet of infeed and outfeed room. Makes for a wall =
about 20 feet long.
2. Cost.
The upshot of all this is:
1. Wood Mag Best Buy is Powermatic 60B at $1,200.
2. Best cost effective buy is Grizzly G0586 at $655.
What I come out of this with is:
1. If you have the room and can afford it, buy the 8".
2. If cost is a factor, buy a used 8".
3. If you do not have the room, buy a 6"
P D Q
"CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, so I buy the cheaper Craftsman jointer
> I will be buying rough cut lumber and will=20
> want to face joint one side of it before planning Will there
> be much difference between the Craftsman
> and the Jet for doing this, Not counting the longer
> base of the Jet. I want what ever I buy to be able to
> do the job I want. I know you get what you pay for,
> but sometimes we buy more than we need too.
> At my age, 62, I am not going to be doing this as
> production, but something I want to enjoy and not get
> frustrated with either. That's happened with some
> more economic tools I've used.
> cc
Steve Turner wrote:
> CC wrote:
>>> You can face joint up to 9 or 10" wide stock on a 6" jointer. Remove
>>> the guard and joint a 6" wide flat part, kind of like a 6" wide shallow
>>> rabbet. Place the flattened 6" wide jointed part on a 6" wide piece of
>>> ply at least as long as your board and run it through your planer,
>>> flattening the other side. Now run the jointed side up through your
>>> planer and flatten/thickness the board.
>>
>> Now that's good to know, I'll remember it
>> thanks Doug
>> CC
>
> Oh, just like that, huh? You'll just *remember* it. What a show off.
>
> Now where did I put that damn PENCIL!? :-)
You only have ONE pencil???
I have maybe a billion of them, everywhere, under every tool, every hunk
of wood, everywhere...
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com
"CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
>=20
>=20
> Thanks again everyone,
> I don't anticipate doing anything longer than 6' and
> don't have the room for an 8" jointer. Most of what I
> do will probably be in the shorter sizes, maybe once in a
> while something longer, but it may work out for that
> using roller stands. I think the smaller jointer will work
> for what I mostly will be doing. I have a new Craftsman
> hybrid saw with a 50" table that takes up a lot of room on a mobile
> base and this will have to have one too. I have a 1 1/2 car garage
> as my shop area so everything needs to be able to move around.
> CC=20
>=20
Not to start this up again, but, I just received the current issue of =
WOOD magazine (issue 189) and contained in it on page 54 is a =
comparison of 6" jointers.
Might be worth it to grab an issue just to see what is recommended.
Best Buy - Grizzly G604X at $575 (has its own wheels)
Top Value - Rigid JP0610 at $430
P D Q
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:DPq8l.706$%[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:DIq8l.704$%[email protected]...
>>
>>
>> Simply put the longer the beds are on a jointer, the longer the board you
>> can straighten or flatten. Typically you can pretty and successfully
>> mill a board in the 4'-5' length range with a 6"-8" jointer.
>>
>
> One more thought on this subject. IMHO standard length stock, 8' and
> longer is too long to easily successfully mill on a 6"-8" jointer. IMHO
> these sized jointers work better on "scrap" sized pieces of stock or stock
> that is cut to approximate shorter finish length prior to jointing.
> Personally I don't like to use the jointer in the middle of a project or
> after cutting stock to approximate required length. I want to prep all of
> my stock prior to cutting the wood to length.
>
I don't know Leon... I've got a Delta DJ-20 8" jointer and I've run 12'
stock over it successfully... did a couple dozen pieces that long one day.
Granted it takes muscle to keep proper pressure exerted on the stock as it
passes over the knives, but it comes out straight if I do my part. Roller
stands would probably help... and a stock feeder would be wonderful.
I should probably note that most of the time I'm working with stock 8' or
less in length, particularly after bands awing pieces from rough cut stock.
I frequently forgo the jointer and thickness planner and use hand planes on
stock 2' and under.
I think there is some "rule" floating around out there about being able to
joint boards twice the length of your tables or some such thing...
John
"David G. Nagel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> CC wrote:
>>
>> "Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> CC wrote:
>>>>> You can face joint up to 9 or 10" wide stock on a 6" jointer. Remove
>>>>> the guard and joint a 6" wide flat part, kind of like a 6" wide
>>>>> shallow
>>>>> rabbet. Place the flattened 6" wide jointed part on a 6" wide piece
>>>>> of
>>>>> ply at least as long as your board and run it through your planer,
>>>>> flattening the other side. Now run the jointed side up through your
>>>>> planer and flatten/thickness the board.
>>>>
>>>> Now that's good to know, I'll remember it
>>>> thanks Doug
>>>> CC
>>>
>>> Oh, just like that, huh? You'll just *remember* it. What a show off.
>>>
>>> Now where did I put that damn PENCIL!? :-)
>>>
>>> --
>>> See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
>>> To reply, eat the taco.
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
>>
>> Once you retire, you no longer have to remember things
>> like getting up to go to work, and which road if going to be
>> closed this week , not to mention all the rest.. Makes it a lot easier
>> to remember the good things
>> hehehe
>> CC
>
> I have found that I NEED a calendar to tell the day of the week let alone
> the date....
The perpetual calendar: "TODAY".
"Doug Winterburn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> John Grossbohlin wrote:
>>
>> The only thing I'd add to that is how wide is the stock you usually use?
>> I've used a bunch of 8" wide white oak lately... it "just" fit on my 8"
>> jointer for face jointing as the rough cut edges wandered a bit. I'd
>> really like to have a 12" jointer. ;~)
>>
>> John
>>
>> ...ever notice how from the side jointers resemble boats (sail boat
>> hull, or perhaps a ship such as an aircraft carrier)? There is that
>> unending quest for a bigger boat... I mean jointer. ;~)
>
> You can face joint up to 9 or 10" wide stock on a 6" jointer. Remove
> the guard and joint a 6" wide flat part, kind of like a 6" wide shallow
> rabbet. Place the flattened 6" wide jointed part on a 6" wide piece of
> ply at least as long as your board and run it through your planer,
> flattening the other side. Now run the jointed side up through your
> planer and flatten/thickness the board.
I'd heard of that process before and it has merit... particularly if there
is a lot of face jointing to do. In my case, on the occasions I work with
stock wider than 8" it's usually shorter pieces and small quantities and I
use my hand planes. Still, I'd like a 12", or wider, jointer. ;~)
John
On Mon, 05 Jan 2009 10:46:22 -0600, Leon wrote:
> One more thought on this subject. IMHO standard length stock, 8' and
> longer is too long to easily successfully mill on a 6"-8" jointer. IMHO
> these sized jointers work better on "scrap" sized pieces of stock or
> stock that is cut to approximate shorter finish length prior to
> jointing. Personally I don't like to use the jointer in the middle of a
> project or after cutting stock to approximate required length. I want
> to prep all of my stock prior to cutting the wood to length.
OTOH, if an otherwise nice board is bowed, cutting it into 2 or 3 parts
before face jointing it saves a lot of wood :-).
--
It's turtles, all the way down
"Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> CC wrote:
>>> You can face joint up to 9 or 10" wide stock on a 6" jointer.
>>> Remove
>>> the guard and joint a 6" wide flat part, kind of like a 6" wide
>>> shallow
>>> rabbet. Place the flattened 6" wide jointed part on a 6" wide
>>> piece of
>>> ply at least as long as your board and run it through your planer,
>>> flattening the other side. Now run the jointed side up through
>>> your
>>> planer and flatten/thickness the board.
>>
>> Now that's good to know, I'll remember it
>> thanks Doug
>> CC
>
> Oh, just like that, huh? You'll just *remember* it. What a show
> off.
>
> Now where did I put that damn PENCIL!? :-)
>
> --
> See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
> To reply, eat the taco.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Once you retire, you no longer have to remember things
like getting up to go to work, and which road if going to be
closed this week , not to mention all the rest.. Makes it a lot easier
to remember the good things
hehehe
CC
Leon wrote:
>
> One more thought on this subject. IMHO standard length stock, 8' and longer
> is too long to easily successfully mill on a 6"-8" jointer.
My DJ-20 does well with 8' stock, but longer than that is a pain.
> Personally I
> don't like to use the jointer in the middle of a project or after cutting
> stock to approximate required length.
It depends on what I'm building.
For critically visible furniture parts, I like to choose more carefully.
Sometimes, I even bandsaw the stock diagonally to "straighten the
grain." Even though I _can_ joint longer stock, I find precutting to
rough length saves wood and makes for faster prep. This also allows
working around grain reversals on the species that come from shorter trees.
For trim or hidden furniture parts, I'm with you all the way. If I need
many long parts, I just buy 7/8" s4s, letting my favorite dealer use his
huge machines. I'll then joint a face & edge, and finish with the drum
sander.
Since I'm usually less concerned with a true _jointed_ board for trim,
I'll usually smooth out the dealer's work with the planer and drum
sander. That stock will never see my jointer.
I do my precutting with a 6" 18V cordless DeWalt circular saw and a
crayon.
CC wrote:
>
> "Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> CC wrote:
>>>> You can face joint up to 9 or 10" wide stock on a 6" jointer. Remove
>>>> the guard and joint a 6" wide flat part, kind of like a 6" wide shallow
>>>> rabbet. Place the flattened 6" wide jointed part on a 6" wide piece of
>>>> ply at least as long as your board and run it through your planer,
>>>> flattening the other side. Now run the jointed side up through your
>>>> planer and flatten/thickness the board.
>>>
>>> Now that's good to know, I'll remember it
>>> thanks Doug
>>> CC
>>
>> Oh, just like that, huh? You'll just *remember* it. What a show off.
>>
>> Now where did I put that damn PENCIL!? :-)
>>
>> --
>> See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
>> To reply, eat the taco.
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
>
> Once you retire, you no longer have to remember things
> like getting up to go to work, and which road if going to be
> closed this week , not to mention all the rest.. Makes it a lot easier
> to remember the good things
> hehehe
> CC
I have found that I NEED a calendar to tell the day of the week let
alone the date....
On Mon, 05 Jan 2009 15:09:43 GMT, "CC"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Ok, so I buy the cheaper Craftsman jointer
>I will be buying rough cut lumber and will
>want to face joint one side of it before planning Will there
>be much difference between the Craftsman
>and the Jet for doing this, Not counting the longer
>base of the Jet. I want what ever I buy to be able to
>do the job I want. I know you get what you pay for,
>but sometimes we buy more than we need too.
>At my age, 62, I am not going to be doing this as
>production, but something I want to enjoy and not get
>frustrated with either. That's happened with some
>more economic tools I've used.
>cc
I would prefer to buy a quality used jointer than a new cheap one for
the same price. Long heavy iron in/out tables and solid fence are
features to look for. Dust collection not so important for jointers.
Check local newspapers and Craigslist.
"Doug Winterburn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You can face joint up to 9 or 10" wide stock on a 6" jointer. Remove
> the guard and joint a 6" wide flat part, kind of like a 6" wide shallow
> rabbet. Place the flattened 6" wide jointed part on a 6" wide piece of
> ply at least as long as your board and run it through your planer,
> flattening the other side. Now run the jointed side up through your
> planer and flatten/thickness the board.
Thanks. I'll give that a try. I have some 8" and 11" stuff that I despaired
of truing up properly.