I am putting a railing on my deck. The 4X4 posts protrude and need a
cap. I couldn't find anything locally that I like. Actually, I did
find a model, but it was pressure treated wood, and the store couldn't
get it in cedar.
What I am thinking of is something similar to the following.
http://www.nantucketpostcap.com/slipon.shtml
So I get some 2X6 cedar, cut it in 5-1/2 lengths. Next is making the
pyramidal top. No problem - angle cuts on the table saw with the cap
held on edge, four cuts per cap should do it. So, switch the Unifence
over to the left (I have a right tilting saw), angle the blade at 5
degrees to do a test cut. Bring a piece of 2X6 to the fence to adjust
the fence distance. Look at it. Think, nah, bad idea. Kickback and
mangled fingers just waiting to happen. There's gotta be a better and
safer way. Don't turn on the saw & go the wreck.
I thought of making a jig for the planer: flat melamine bed with a
cleat under one side to create the right angle, and a sort of nest for
the caps on the top so they don't move. But I suspect the pieces are
too short and might jump up as the planer blades hit. Maybe hold the
cap with carpet tape - which would be a PITA.
So any ideas or suggestions, fellow wreckers?
No problem with the rest of the moulding - router table & something to
hold, as well as an applied moulding underneath. But the pyramid top
has me stymied.
TIA
Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" twice
in reply address for real email address
Thank you everyone, I knew the wreck would come through. I am leaning
towards an H-jig to go over the fence, like Scott and Jim suggested.
But I will only get to it in a couple of weeks as for the next week,
my shop has been taken over by 1600 lbs of grapes starting their magic
journey to becoming one of the four basic food groups (wine, garlic,
pasta and olive oil, IGWOS). And after that I'm off in the bush to
sexually harass and hopefully murder some poor gentle giant forest
creature (moose, the fifth food group in the Yukon).
Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" twice
in reply address for real email address
I did this several months ago using redwood. I have a pushing jig
with handhold that was used to keep firmer hold on the wood than
shaking fingers could do. No hesitations noted.
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 11:15:11 -0700, Luigi Zanasi <[email protected]>
wrote:
>No problem - angle cuts on the table saw with the cap
>held on edge, four cuts per cap should do it.
On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 01:05:50 GMT, "Wood Butcher" <[email protected]>
scribbled
>Have you looked at these?
>http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/showdetl.cfm?offerings_id=5484&objectgroup_id=4
>00&catid=83&DID=6
No, not those in particular, but they are very similar to the ones I
wanted to buy. You, sir, are a man of good taste. I like the copper
top, but couldn't get in cedar. However, the price is pretty steep -
over $20 in Kanuckistani loonies plus shipping, compared to less than
a loonie's worth of cedar to make them. Then multiply by at least
twelve. BTW, the pressure treated ones I saw were about $CDN11.00.
Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" twice
in reply address for real email address
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 17:27:22 -0500, "seelyjv" <[email protected]>
suggested:
>George,
>Instead of using the miter gage, as suggested below, try using a piece of
>3/4" plywood or MDF about a foot wide to make an "h" shaped jig that fits
>around the fence on your table saw. Then, carpet tape each piece of your
>5-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 2 material to that and rotate it for each cut like you
>planned to do in the first place. I've done this successfully many times
>and haven't lost any of the pieces yet.
Pieces of wood or pieces of fingers? :-)
Thanks, I don't know if I can make an H-shaped jig for the Unifence,
as the way the fence attaches to the slider (?) might prevent it from
travelling far back enough. I'll have to check. Here is one point for
a Biesemeyer, in the on-going struggle, without have to buy or build
an addition to the fence, like Chris Merrill had to do.
Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" twice
in reply address for real email address
Have you looked at these?
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/showdetl.cfm?offerings_id=5484&objectgroup_id=4
00&catid=83&DID=6
Art
"Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am putting a railing on my deck. The 4X4 posts protrude and need a
> cap. I couldn't find anything locally that I like. Actually, I did
> find a model, but it was pressure treated wood, and the store couldn't
> get it in cedar.
>
> What I am thinking of is something similar to the following.
>
> http://www.nantucketpostcap.com/slipon.shtml
>
> So I get some 2X6 cedar, cut it in 5-1/2 lengths. Next is making the
> pyramidal top. No problem - angle cuts on the table saw with the cap
> held on edge, four cuts per cap should do it. So, switch the Unifence
> over to the left (I have a right tilting saw), angle the blade at 5
> degrees to do a test cut. Bring a piece of 2X6 to the fence to adjust
> the fence distance. Look at it. Think, nah, bad idea. Kickback and
> mangled fingers just waiting to happen. There's gotta be a better and
> safer way. Don't turn on the saw & go the wreck.
>
> I thought of making a jig for the planer: flat melamine bed with a
> cleat under one side to create the right angle, and a sort of nest for
> the caps on the top so they don't move. But I suspect the pieces are
> too short and might jump up as the planer blades hit. Maybe hold the
> cap with carpet tape - which would be a PITA.
>
> So any ideas or suggestions, fellow wreckers?
>
> No problem with the rest of the moulding - router table & something to
> hold, as well as an applied moulding underneath. But the pyramid top
> has me stymied.
>
> TIA
>
>
> Luigi
> Replace "no" with "yk" twice
> in reply address for real email address
George,
Instead of using the miter gage, as suggested below, try using a piece of
3/4" plywood or MDF about a foot wide to make an "h" shaped jig that fits
around the fence on your table saw. Then, carpet tape each piece of your
5-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 2 material to that and rotate it for each cut like you
planned to do in the first place. I've done this successfully many times
and haven't lost any of the pieces yet.
Jim Seelye
============================
"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bandsaw. Remove two, then replace one wedge with doublestick to cut the
90
> degree pair.
>
> You can lag screw your short pieces to a convenient miter gage fixture
and
> use the tablesaw, too.
>
> "Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I am putting a railing on my deck. The 4X4 posts protrude and need a
> > cap. I couldn't find anything locally that I like. Actually, I did
> > find a model, but it was pressure treated wood, and the store couldn't
> > get it in cedar.
> >
> > What I am thinking of is something similar to the following.
> >
> > http://www.nantucketpostcap.com/slipon.shtml
> >
> > So I get some 2X6 cedar, cut it in 5-1/2 lengths. Next is making the
> > pyramidal top. No problem - angle cuts on the table saw with the cap
> > held on edge, four cuts per cap should do it. So, switch the Unifence
> > over to the left (I have a right tilting saw), angle the blade at 5
> > degrees to do a test cut. Bring a piece of 2X6 to the fence to adjust
> > the fence distance. Look at it. Think, nah, bad idea. Kickback and
> > mangled fingers just waiting to happen. There's gotta be a better and
> > safer way. Don't turn on the saw & go the wreck.
> >
>
>
On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 13:51:43 GMT, Larry Jaques <jake@di\/ersify.com>
scribbled
>On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 22:55:48 -0700, Luigi Zanasi <[email protected]>
>pixelated:
>
>>Thank you everyone, I knew the wreck would come through. I am leaning
>>towards an H-jig to go over the fence, like Scott and Jim suggested.
>>But I will only get to it in a couple of weeks as for the next week,
>>my shop has been taken over by 1600 lbs of grapes starting their magic
>>journey to becoming one of the four basic food groups (wine, garlic,
>>pasta and olive oil, IGWOS).
>
>Hey, that spells WGPOO, not IGWOS. 'Sprain, preese.
>BTW, 4 food groups down here: Sugar, Grease, Starch, & Caffeine.
Another FLA (five letter acronym or abbreviation, let the other guys
argue about it) for "It goes without saying".
>>And after that I'm off in the bush to
>>sexually harass and hopefully murder some poor gentle giant forest
>>creature (moose, the fifth food group in the Yukon).
>
>You're a moose raper?!? Here, come sit down on the Group W
>bench next to me and tell me all about it. ;)
No, no, no! Not a moose rapist! I said sexual harassment, not rape. As
in lovesick cow moose calls to attract the dumb horny males to a place
where they can be conveniently murdered and butchered.
http://www.sherryfelix.com/MOOSE.htm
http://www.jokes2000.com/jokes/files/joke9582.htm
>Maybe one of these will help you cover your tracks:
>http://rodenator.com/rodenator_pro
Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" twice
in reply address for real email address
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 18:52:20 GMT, "Rob V"
<[email protected]> scribbled
>Do this - take a 4"x4"x2' peice - tilt the saw and use your miter gauge.
>make the 4 cuts (rotating each cut to make the pyrimid) - then to the chop
>saw to cut the pyrimid off.
>
>The back to the table saw....repeat.
>
>hope that helps
Thanks, that's an idea. I have some 6X6 cedar left-over pieces instead
of 4X4. But the end-grain would be up, which is what the caps are
supposed to avoid.
Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" twice
in reply address for real email address
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 23:07:57 GMT, "Preston Andreas"
<[email protected]> suggested:
>I made some nice looking caps using an ogee raised panel cutter in the
>router table. With some nice moulding underneath, it looked nice.
Thanks, a good idea, but the PC 690 in my table is too small and too
fast to use a panel raising bit. It would work with a bigger variable
speed router. Hmm ... maybe this is an excuse to add to my collection
of routers. Or maybe a vertical panel raising bit.
Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" twice
in reply address for real email address
I made some nice looking caps using an ogee raised panel cutter in the
router table. With some nice moulding underneath, it looked nice.
Preston
"Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am putting a railing on my deck. The 4X4 posts protrude and need a
> cap. I couldn't find anything locally that I like. Actually, I did
> find a model, but it was pressure treated wood, and the store couldn't
> get it in cedar.
>
> What I am thinking of is something similar to the following.
>
> http://www.nantucketpostcap.com/slipon.shtml
>
> So I get some 2X6 cedar, cut it in 5-1/2 lengths. Next is making the
> pyramidal top. No problem - angle cuts on the table saw with the cap
> held on edge, four cuts per cap should do it. So, switch the Unifence
> over to the left (I have a right tilting saw), angle the blade at 5
> degrees to do a test cut. Bring a piece of 2X6 to the fence to adjust
> the fence distance. Look at it. Think, nah, bad idea. Kickback and
> mangled fingers just waiting to happen. There's gotta be a better and
> safer way. Don't turn on the saw & go the wreck.
>
> I thought of making a jig for the planer: flat melamine bed with a
> cleat under one side to create the right angle, and a sort of nest for
> the caps on the top so they don't move. But I suspect the pieces are
> too short and might jump up as the planer blades hit. Maybe hold the
> cap with carpet tape - which would be a PITA.
>
> So any ideas or suggestions, fellow wreckers?
>
> No problem with the rest of the moulding - router table & something to
> hold, as well as an applied moulding underneath. But the pyramid top
> has me stymied.
>
> TIA
>
>
> Luigi
> Replace "no" with "yk" twice
> in reply address for real email address
...wow!!!
Only $1800+ to kill a mole or a gopher. I liked the idea so much I bought
one for every member of the family. No moles or gophers here but the
traditional "wedgie" is getting old. This should liven things up a
bit...thanks for the link!!!
"Larry Jaques" <jake@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 22:55:48 -0700, Luigi Zanasi <[email protected]>
> pixelated:
>
> >Thank you everyone, I knew the wreck would come through. I am leaning
> >towards an H-jig to go over the fence, like Scott and Jim suggested.
> >But I will only get to it in a couple of weeks as for the next week,
> >my shop has been taken over by 1600 lbs of grapes starting their magic
> >journey to becoming one of the four basic food groups (wine, garlic,
> >pasta and olive oil, IGWOS).
>
> Hey, that spells WGPOO, not IGWOS. 'Sprain, preese.
> BTW, 4 food groups down here: Sugar, Grease, Starch, & Caffeine.
>
>
> >And after that I'm off in the bush to
> >sexually harass and hopefully murder some poor gentle giant forest
> >creature (moose, the fifth food group in the Yukon).
>
> You're a moose raper?!? Here, come sit down on the Group W
> bench next to me and tell me all about it. ;)
>
> Maybe one of these will help you cover your tracks:
> http://rodenator.com/rodenator_pro
>
> -
> Interpreted Interpolations Done Dirt Cheap.
> -----------
> http://diversify.com Website Application Programming
Replace one cutoff to give yourself greater stability against the table.
48 lags - no sweat with a power driver.
"Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Good idea, bandsaw instead of table saw. But I don't get why I would
> need to replace a wedge if I use a fence on the bandsaw. I'll need to
> tuneup my bandsaw & get a better blade, but that's OK.
>
> >You can lag screw your short pieces to a convenient miter gage fixture
and
> >use the tablesaw, too.
>
> I've got at least a dozen to do, more like 14 (I actually only need
> 11, but some will have to be cut to fit against the siding, plus a few
> for screw-ups). That means lagging and unlagging at least 48 times - a
> PITA.
> Luigi
> Replace "no" with "yk" twice
> in reply address for real email address
On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 22:55:48 -0700, Luigi Zanasi <[email protected]>
pixelated:
>Thank you everyone, I knew the wreck would come through. I am leaning
>towards an H-jig to go over the fence, like Scott and Jim suggested.
>But I will only get to it in a couple of weeks as for the next week,
>my shop has been taken over by 1600 lbs of grapes starting their magic
>journey to becoming one of the four basic food groups (wine, garlic,
>pasta and olive oil, IGWOS).
Hey, that spells WGPOO, not IGWOS. 'Sprain, preese.
BTW, 4 food groups down here: Sugar, Grease, Starch, & Caffeine.
>And after that I'm off in the bush to
>sexually harass and hopefully murder some poor gentle giant forest
>creature (moose, the fifth food group in the Yukon).
You're a moose raper?!? Here, come sit down on the Group W
bench next to me and tell me all about it. ;)
Maybe one of these will help you cover your tracks:
http://rodenator.com/rodenator_pro
-
Interpreted Interpolations Done Dirt Cheap.
-----------
http://diversify.com Website Application Programming
Imagine a handle from Gramps ripsaw for handhold in scrap of wood
about 6" long. I drilled two holes then scroll saw to remove material
between then roundover for comfort. Exterior is rounded over also.
Bottom is 1/2" step creating a hook on one end that is used for
pushing. It gets used more than originally thought. I can take a pic
if this doesn't make sense.
On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 22:55:44 -0700, Luigi Zanasi <[email protected]>
wrote:
>>I did this several months ago using redwood. I have a pushing jig
>>with handhold that was used to keep firmer hold on the wood than
>>shaking fingers could do. No hesitations noted.
>
>What does your pushing jig look like?
Bandsaw. Remove two, then replace one wedge with doublestick to cut the 90
degree pair.
You can lag screw your short pieces to a convenient miter gage fixture and
use the tablesaw, too.
"Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am putting a railing on my deck. The 4X4 posts protrude and need a
> cap. I couldn't find anything locally that I like. Actually, I did
> find a model, but it was pressure treated wood, and the store couldn't
> get it in cedar.
>
> What I am thinking of is something similar to the following.
>
> http://www.nantucketpostcap.com/slipon.shtml
>
> So I get some 2X6 cedar, cut it in 5-1/2 lengths. Next is making the
> pyramidal top. No problem - angle cuts on the table saw with the cap
> held on edge, four cuts per cap should do it. So, switch the Unifence
> over to the left (I have a right tilting saw), angle the blade at 5
> degrees to do a test cut. Bring a piece of 2X6 to the fence to adjust
> the fence distance. Look at it. Think, nah, bad idea. Kickback and
> mangled fingers just waiting to happen. There's gotta be a better and
> safer way. Don't turn on the saw & go the wreck.
>