I ordered a PC 690LR router and small table. I hope it works better than
the Crafffffff.... psmans I had.
Question: I used a bit with the CraFTsman that was straight and cylindrical
looking (plunge maybe?) but if I want to rout rabbets (or shhhh be vewy
quiet... I'm wouting wabbets.. heheheh) which bit do I need? A plunge bit?
A rabbet bit? I'll get the carbide tipped whatever but to just rout grooves
(remove a corner) which is best?
I saw one of the rabbet bits but it seemed to have a stop at the bottom or
something.
Also, the PC will take 1/2" shank so do I need to know anything other than
1/2" shank, carbide and the style?
Help is appreciated.
Tim
"Tim Simmons" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I ordered a PC 690LR router and small table. I hope it works better than
> the Crafffffff.... psmans I had.
>
>
> Question: I used a bit with the CraFTsman that was straight and
cylindrical
> looking (plunge maybe?) but if I want to rout rabbets (or shhhh be vewy
> quiet... I'm wouting wabbets.. heheheh) which bit do I need? A plunge
bit?
> A rabbet bit? I'll get the carbide tipped whatever but to just rout
grooves
> (remove a corner) which is best?
>
> I saw one of the rabbet bits but it seemed to have a stop at the bottom or
> something.
>
> Also, the PC will take 1/2" shank so do I need to know anything other than
> 1/2" shank, carbide and the style?
>
> Help is appreciated.
>
>
> Tim
>
>
Tim S.:
I wonder if this guy who put my router and table together got the wrong bit?
It looks like the plunge bits I see on this site but I'm not sure.
Would a plunge bit still be okay for routing edges off of small molding?
Tim
I just picked up a wabit bit set from Dymar (?) which came with four
different bearings so I can go from 1/4 to 5/8 inch wabits. A wabit bit
makes it much easier than setting fences and it allows you to go around
corners. I bought the 35mm (bigger diameter) one with a 1/2 inch shank
because I figured the turning speed would be faster and with that size bit
I'm more comfortable with a 1/2 shank
"Tim Simmons" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I ordered a PC 690LR router and small table. I hope it works better than
> the Crafffffff.... psmans I had.
>
>
> Question: I used a bit with the CraFTsman that was straight and
cylindrical
> looking (plunge maybe?) but if I want to rout rabbets (or shhhh be vewy
> quiet... I'm wouting wabbets.. heheheh) which bit do I need? A plunge
bit?
> A rabbet bit? I'll get the carbide tipped whatever but to just rout
grooves
> (remove a corner) which is best?
>
> I saw one of the rabbet bits but it seemed to have a stop at the bottom or
> something.
>
> Also, the PC will take 1/2" shank so do I need to know anything other than
> 1/2" shank, carbide and the style?
>
> Help is appreciated.
>
>
> Tim
>
>
"Tim Simmons" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Gee, I don't want to know everything about table saws and planers. I just
> need a few tips on routing a lip into the edge of a 2" piece of molding.
If
> I intended on working with wood in general I would definitely consider
> taking a class or investing in a good book on the general topic.
A 2" piece is harder to rout than a 2' piece. You need something to hold
it with. Either clamp it, or screw it to another longer board, or don't do
it. If the bit grabs hold, you ill be amazed at how fast is will fling it
at you or grab your hand with it.
Since you own a router, maybe if you took the beginners course, you'd find a
rewarding hobby waiting for you.
Ed
Clamping the piece down to a bench makes it rather difficult to get it
throuh the router table.
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> you need to clamp the piece you're routing onto a workbench or something
> before you rout it. You can also use non-slip routing pads (similar if
not
> identical to that rubber mesh stuff you put under area rugs so they won't
> move) under the workpiece to keep it in place. You definitely do NOT try
to
> hold the piece with one hand and operate the router with the other.
>
> Mike
>
"Mark Jerde" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Tim,
>
> > Anyway, not everyone aspires to be a wood guru.
>
> Aye, but everyone should aspire to keep his or her fingers. Make sure
> you understand enough to know you are safe. I had a piece of wood grab
> on my router table & drag my fingers towards it much faster than a
> humanoid can let go.
>
> -- Mark
>
>
Tim S.:
Safety is, as Willie Nelson used to say, "Always On My Mind". hehehehehe
Tim
"Tim Simmons" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I ordered a PC 690LR router and small table. I hope it works better than
> the Crafffffff.... psmans I had.
>
>
> Question: I used a bit with the CraFTsman that was straight and cylindrical
> looking (plunge maybe?) but if I want to rout rabbets (or shhhh be vewy
> quiet... I'm wouting wabbets.. heheheh) which bit do I need? A plunge bit?
> A rabbet bit? I'll get the carbide tipped whatever but to just rout grooves
> (remove a corner) which is best?
>
> I saw one of the rabbet bits but it seemed to have a stop at the bottom or
> something.
>
> Also, the PC will take 1/2" shank so do I need to know anything other than
> 1/2" shank, carbide and the style?
>
> Help is appreciated.
>
>
> Tim
http://www.newwoodworker.com/index.html
What makes a plunge bit is cutters on the bottom. Edge routing is
O.K.
On Fri, 12 Sep 2003 04:26:45 GMT, "Tim Simmons"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Would a plunge bit still be okay for routing edges off of small molding?
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Tim Simmons" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > Gee, I don't want to know everything about table saws and planers. I
just
> > need a few tips on routing a lip into the edge of a 2" piece of molding.
> If
> > I intended on working with wood in general I would definitely consider
> > taking a class or investing in a good book on the general topic.
>
> A 2" piece is harder to rout than a 2' piece. You need something to hold
> it with. Either clamp it, or screw it to another longer board, or don't
do
> it. If the bit grabs hold, you ill be amazed at how fast is will fling it
> at you or grab your hand with it.
>
> Since you own a router, maybe if you took the beginners course, you'd find
a
> rewarding hobby waiting for you.
> Ed
>
>
Tim S.:
I already have several rewarding hobbies that consume my time so I just have
to draw a line somewhere!
Thanks for the saftey advice and believe me, I am careful when using the
router and miter saw (I wear ear plugs, dust mask, goggles and am
conscientious of where my little digits are while pushing the wood.)
I do need to invest in some clamps, tho. Sigh.... gotta get a second job
just to get basic picture frame tools! heheehhe
Tim
you need to clamp the piece you're routing onto a workbench or something
before you rout it. You can also use non-slip routing pads (similar if not
identical to that rubber mesh stuff you put under area rugs so they won't
move) under the workpiece to keep it in place. You definitely do NOT try to
hold the piece with one hand and operate the router with the other.
here's another suggestion after reading this post by you and the one about
the stain: take a beginning woodworking class!!
Mike
"Tim Simmons" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Norm Edelmann" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I just picked up a wabit bit set from Dymar (?) which came with four
> > different bearings so I can go from 1/4 to 5/8 inch wabits. A wabit bit
> > makes it much easier than setting fences
>
> Tim S.:
>
> But w/o fences it's more dangerous to push wood w/hands trying to hold it
in
> place, right? Or not?
>
> I just am not in the know. So, do the rabbet bits have removeable pieces
or
> do you just swap the whole bit?
>
> Thanks,
> Tim
>
> snip
>
>