More years ago than I can remember I came across a little kit for restoring
screw holes. It was particularly handy for moving a strike plate for a door
latch. The kit had a tapered bit to drill a hole that accepted a plug shaped
like the sharpened end of a pencil. (it also included a pencil shaped piece
of wood that could be sharpened in a pencil sharpener and used as a plug.)
I've lost it, looked in all the catalogs I have and am beginning to wonder
if I dreamed it.
Anyone familiar with the device?
Max
Zz Yzx wrote:
> On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 14:47:43 -0600, "Max"<[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>More years ago than I can remember I came across a little kit for restoring
>>screw holes. It was particularly handy for moving a strike plate for a door
>>latch. The kit had a tapered bit to drill a hole that accepted a plug shaped
>>like the sharpened end of a pencil. (it also included a pencil shaped piece
>>of wood that could be sharpened in a pencil sharpener and used as a plug.)
>>I've lost it, looked in all the catalogs I have and am beginning to wonder
>>if I dreamed it.
>>Anyone familiar with the device?
>>
>>Max
>
> What's the advantage of the tapered hole/plug? Seems to me a straight
> hole/plug would work as well or better. I ask in ernest.
>
> -Zz
I think it is not so much the tapered plug as the pointed reamer that
will follow a screw-hole much easier than a drill bit. I think a drill
bit with a conical tip would have been more ideal but harder to make.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
Acting without thinking can be awfully
entertaining.
"Marty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:f5b6e951-82c4-4883-b6a6-8cfa81330b0d@c32g2000vbq.googlegroups.com...
On Sep 21, 3:47 pm, "Max" <[email protected]> wrote:
> More years ago than I can remember I came across a little kit for
> restoring
> screw holes. It was particularly handy for moving a strike plate for a
> door
> latch. The kit had a tapered bit to drill a hole that accepted a plug
> shaped
> like the sharpened end of a pencil. (it also included a pencil shaped
> piece
> of wood that could be sharpened in a pencil sharpener and used as a plug.)
> I've lost it, looked in all the catalogs I have and am beginning to wonder
> if I dreamed it.
> Anyone familiar with the device?
>
> Max
>I've never seen that kit, but one can do pretty much the same thing by
>drilling a hole with a brad point wood bit, and then gluing in a piece
>of dowel.
>Marty
You're right, of course, and I've thought of that, even used that but I'm
wondering if the kit is still available or if the market disappeared because
everyone thought like you and me.
Max
"Norman Billingham" <norman.at.tumulus.org.uk> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> More years ago than I can remember I came across a little kit for
>> restoring screw holes. It was particularly handy for moving a strike
>> plate for a door latch. The kit had a tapered bit to drill a hole that
>> accepted a plug shaped like the sharpened end of a pencil. (it also
>> included a pencil shaped piece of wood that could be sharpened in a
>> pencil sharpener and used as a plug.)
>> I've lost it, looked in all the catalogs I have and am beginning to
>> wonder if I dreamed it.
>> Anyone familiar with the device?
>
>
> You're not dreaming. I've still got one. It came from Garrett Wade on a
> visit to New York (I think Woodcraft Supply used to carry them too?). It
> works OK but the plug is end grain so not particularly strong. I tend to
> reach for a couple of matchsticks (or use a plastic wall plug).
>
>
>
> Lee Valley does the kit:
>
>
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32280&cat=1,180,42240,53317
Bingo. That's it. I must have missed it in my LV catalog. Thanks.
Max
"willshak" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Max wrote the following:
>> "Norman Billingham" <norman.at.tumulus.org.uk> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>> "Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> More years ago than I can remember I came across a little kit for
>>>> restoring screw holes. It was particularly handy for moving a strike
>>>> plate for a door latch. The kit had a tapered bit to drill a hole that
>>>> accepted a plug shaped like the sharpened end of a pencil. (it also
>>>> included a pencil shaped piece of wood that could be sharpened in a
>>>> pencil sharpener and used as a plug.)
>>>> I've lost it, looked in all the catalogs I have and am beginning to
>>>> wonder if I dreamed it.
>>>> Anyone familiar with the device?
>>>
>>>
>>> You're not dreaming. I've still got one. It came from Garrett Wade on
>>> a visit to New York (I think Woodcraft Supply used to carry them too?).
>>> It works OK but the plug is end grain so not particularly strong. I
>>> tend to reach for a couple of matchsticks (or use a plastic wall plug).
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Lee Valley does the kit:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32280&cat=1,180,42240,53317
>>
>> Bingo. That's it. I must have missed it in my LV catalog. Thanks.
>>
>> Max
>
> That looks weaker than a unsharpened dowel glued into a regularly drilled
> hole.
> You use the drills you already have and you don't need a pencil sharpener.
> You save $20 + shipping too.
>
> --
>
> Bill
You're right, of course, and I've thought of that, even used that but I'm
wondering if the kit is still available or if the market disappeared because
everyone thought like you and me.
Max
"Zz Yzx" wrote:
> What's the advantage of the tapered hole/plug? Seems to me a
> straight
> hole/plug would work as well or better. I ask in ernest.
--------------------------------
Tapered plug is just another form of an inclined plane.
The further you drive a tapered plug into a tapered hole, the tighter
the fit.
The tighter the fit, the better the glue joint.
Lew
On Sep 21, 7:34=A0pm, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have often thought about using epoxy but always feared the scrwws would
> not be able to penetrate it after hardening.
I have fallen in love with System Three T-88 structural epoxy. It
sands and drills like hardwood and you can easily drop a screw in it
with a pilot hole. I did a major repair to a pine blanket chest I
built 20 years ago and had epoxy in cracks, filling missing chunks and
all over the area with hinges attached and it went back together like
it was all wood.
I like the color it dries, it looks like pine sap and blends well with
aged pine. I also repaired a badly designed oak side table and it
blended well with the typical red oak orangish brown stain too.
Single blown out screw hole still gets tooth;picks, but maybe all use
epoxy with the picks.
On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 16:51:19 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
>
>> Toothpicks and glue.
>>
>> WINNER!!!!!
>--------------------------------
>I'll see your tootyhpicks and glue and raise you (ALL IN) an epoxy
>fairing putty repair.
>
>Now that's the winner.
NOT! For an in-place (not removing the hinge or door) repair,
toothpicks (with or without glue) are the clear winner. They're
-instant- fixes. Although I'm sure it's a nice fix, epoxy takes time
to cure before use.
For the purist, wood dowels beat epoxy fairing putty.
--
Some people hear voices. Some see invisible people.
Others have no imagination whatsoever.
"Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> More years ago than I can remember I came across a little kit for
> restoring screw holes. It was particularly handy for moving a strike
> plate for a door latch. The kit had a tapered bit to drill a hole that
> accepted a plug shaped like the sharpened end of a pencil. (it also
> included a pencil shaped piece of wood that could be sharpened in a pencil
> sharpener and used as a plug.)
> I've lost it, looked in all the catalogs I have and am beginning to wonder
> if I dreamed it.
> Anyone familiar with the device?
You're not dreaming. I've still got one. It came from Garrett Wade on a
visit to New York (I think Woodcraft Supply used to carry them too?). It
works OK but the plug is end grain so not particularly strong. I tend to
reach for a couple of matchsticks (or use a plastic wall plug).
Lee Valley does the kit:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32280&cat=1,180,42240,53317
"Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> More years ago than I can remember I came across a little kit for
> restoring screw holes. It was particularly handy for moving a strike
> plate for a door latch. The kit had a tapered bit to drill a hole that
> accepted a plug shaped like the sharpened end of a pencil. (it also
> included a pencil shaped piece of wood that could be sharpened in a pencil
> sharpener and used as a plug.)
> I've lost it, looked in all the catalogs I have and am beginning to wonder
> if I dreamed it.
> Anyone familiar with the device?
>
> Max
Lee Valley.
Max wrote the following:
> "Norman Billingham" <norman.at.tumulus.org.uk> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> More years ago than I can remember I came across a little kit for
>>> restoring screw holes. It was particularly handy for moving a
>>> strike plate for a door latch. The kit had a tapered bit to drill a
>>> hole that accepted a plug shaped like the sharpened end of a
>>> pencil. (it also included a pencil shaped piece of wood that could
>>> be sharpened in a pencil sharpener and used as a plug.)
>>> I've lost it, looked in all the catalogs I have and am beginning to
>>> wonder if I dreamed it.
>>> Anyone familiar with the device?
>>
>>
>> You're not dreaming. I've still got one. It came from Garrett Wade
>> on a visit to New York (I think Woodcraft Supply used to carry them
>> too?). It works OK but the plug is end grain so not particularly
>> strong. I tend to reach for a couple of matchsticks (or use a
>> plastic wall plug).
>>
>>
>>
>> Lee Valley does the kit:
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32280&cat=1,180,42240,53317
>
> Bingo. That's it. I must have missed it in my LV catalog. Thanks.
>
> Max
That looks weaker than a unsharpened dowel glued into a regularly
drilled hole.
You use the drills you already have and you don't need a pencil sharpener.
You save $20 + shipping too.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
Toothpicks and glue.
"Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
More years ago than I can remember I came across a little kit for restoring
screw holes. It was particularly handy for moving a strike plate for a door
latch. The kit had a tapered bit to drill a hole that accepted a plug shaped
like the sharpened end of a pencil. (it also included a pencil shaped piece
of wood that could be sharpened in a pencil sharpener and used as a plug.)
I've lost it, looked in all the catalogs I have and am beginning to wonder
if I dreamed it.
Anyone familiar with the device?
Max
On Sep 21, 5:38=A0pm, Zz Yzx <[email protected]> wrote:
> What's the advantage of the tapered hole/plug? =A0Seems to me a straight
> hole/plug would work as well or better. =A0I ask in ernest.
It's a 'locking taper'; pressing the plug self-clamps it when you glue
it into
place. The hole, too, is going to be a more accurate shape than
with a standard twist drill doing a cylindrical hole. The conical
cutter isn't as quick, doesn't pull chips out as fast, but it makes
an accurate mating surface and is insensitive to the guidance
of the drill. Center drills for machining metal are likewise more
accurate in hole shape than twist drills.
On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 14:47:43 -0600, "Max" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>More years ago than I can remember I came across a little kit for restoring
>screw holes. It was particularly handy for moving a strike plate for a door
>latch. The kit had a tapered bit to drill a hole that accepted a plug shaped
>like the sharpened end of a pencil. (it also included a pencil shaped piece
>of wood that could be sharpened in a pencil sharpener and used as a plug.)
>I've lost it, looked in all the catalogs I have and am beginning to wonder
>if I dreamed it.
>Anyone familiar with the device?
>
>Max
What's the advantage of the tapered hole/plug? Seems to me a straight
hole/plug would work as well or better. I ask in ernest.
-Zz
On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 17:44:49 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Zz Yzx" wrote:
>
>> What's the advantage of the tapered hole/plug? Seems to me a
>> straight
>> hole/plug would work as well or better. I ask in ernest.
>--------------------------------
>Tapered plug is just another form of an inclined plane.
>
>The further you drive a tapered plug into a tapered hole, the tighter
>the fit.
>
>The tighter the fit, the better the glue joint.
>
>Lew
>
Hmmmmm.... The surface area of the cone may be a bit larger than that
for the cylinder. And the angle may provide a bit more long grain -
long grain glue surface (I'm not sure this would be significant if the
hole is drilled into the flat side of a flat-sawn board). It seems
that effect would be small.
Also, driving the cone too far could force the glue out, weakening the
fix.
There are bits that cut plugs perpendicular to the long grain:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32320&cat=1,180,42288
-Zz
"willshak" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Max wrote the following:
>> "Norman Billingham" <norman.at.tumulus.org.uk> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>> "Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> More years ago than I can remember I came across a little kit for
>>>> restoring screw holes. It was particularly handy for moving a
chop
>>>
>>> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32280&cat=1,180,42240,53317
>>
>> Bingo. That's it. I must have missed it in my LV catalog. Thanks.
>>
>> Max
>
> That looks weaker than a unsharpened dowel glued into a regularly drilled
> hole.
> You use the drills you already have and you don't need a pencil sharpener.
> You save $20 + shipping too.
I'm thinking that in theory you are getting a little close to a long-grain
to long-grain glue joint with this tool but there is still the issue of
having end grain into which to drive screws... This sort of suggests to me
that a flat bottom hole with plugs is the strongest hole fixer as you'd have
a long-grain to long-grain glue joint on the bottom and would be screwing
into long grain.
Let the theory debate being!
John
"Norman Billingham" <norman.at.tumulus.org.uk> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> More years ago than I can remember I came across a little kit for
>> restoring screw holes. It was particularly handy for moving a strike
>> plate for a door latch. The kit had a tapered bit to drill a hole that
>> accepted a plug shaped like the sharpened end of a pencil. (it also
>> included a pencil shaped piece of wood that could be sharpened in a
>> pencil sharpener and used as a plug.)
>> I've lost it, looked in all the catalogs I have and am beginning to
>> wonder if I dreamed it.
>> Anyone familiar with the device?
>
>
> You're not dreaming. I've still got one. It came from Garrett Wade on a
> visit to New York (I think Woodcraft Supply used to carry them too?). It
> works OK but the plug is end grain so not particularly strong. I tend to
> reach for a couple of matchsticks (or use a plastic wall plug).
>
>
>
> Lee Valley does the kit:
Plastic wall plug? Now that is something I will try. I have always used a
birch dowel and glue. Also drilled center of dowel to avoid cracking it. WW
>
>
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32280&cat=1,180,42240,53317
>
>
>
>
>
>
On Sep 21, 3:47=A0pm, "Max" <[email protected]> wrote:
> More years ago than I can remember I came across a little kit for restori=
ng
> screw holes. =A0It was particularly handy for moving a strike plate for a=
door
> latch. The kit had a tapered bit to drill a hole that accepted a plug sha=
ped
> like the sharpened end of a pencil. =A0(it also included a pencil shaped =
piece
> of wood that could be sharpened in a pencil sharpener and used as a plug.=
)
> I've lost it, looked in all the catalogs I have and am beginning to wonde=
r
> if I dreamed it.
> Anyone familiar with the device?
>
> Max
I've never seen that kit, but one can do pretty much the same thing by
drilling a hole with a brad point wood bit, and then gluing in a piece
of dowel.
=20
Marty
In article <[email protected]>,
Max <[email protected]> wrote:
>I've lost it, looked in all the catalogs I have and am beginning to wonder
>if I dreamed it.
You didn't dream it unless you and I had the same dream. I've
been looking for one of those for years with no luck.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
On 9/21/2010 9:00 PM, Zz Yzx wrote:
> On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 17:44:49 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>> "Zz Yzx" wrote:
>>
>>> What's the advantage of the tapered hole/plug? Seems to me a
>>> straight
>>> hole/plug would work as well or better. I ask in ernest.
>> --------------------------------
>> Tapered plug is just another form of an inclined plane.
>>
>> The further you drive a tapered plug into a tapered hole, the tighter
>> the fit.
>>
>> The tighter the fit, the better the glue joint.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>
> Hmmmmm.... The surface area of the cone may be a bit larger than that
> for the cylinder. And the angle may provide a bit more long grain -
> long grain glue surface (I'm not sure this would be significant if the
> hole is drilled into the flat side of a flat-sawn board). It seems
> that effect would be small.
>
> Also, driving the cone too far could force the glue out, weakening the
> fix.
>
> There are bits that cut plugs perpendicular to the long grain:
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32320&cat=1,180,42288
But a tapered plug isn't a tight fit in a non-tapered hole. It's fine
for plugging to cover a screw-head but structurally not so good. And a
non-tapered plug needs to be loose enough that you can drive it in.
A fix that's easy, quick, and strong, is to simply drill out the hole to
take a threaded insert.
On 9/22/2010 7:08 AM, Gerald Ross wrote:
> Zz Yzx wrote:
>> On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 14:47:43 -0600, "Max"<[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> More years ago than I can remember I came across a little kit for
>>> restoring
>>> screw holes. It was particularly handy for moving a strike plate for
>>> a door
>>> latch. The kit had a tapered bit to drill a hole that accepted a plug
>>> shaped
>>> like the sharpened end of a pencil. (it also included a pencil shaped
>>> piece
>>> of wood that could be sharpened in a pencil sharpener and used as a
>>> plug.)
>>> I've lost it, looked in all the catalogs I have and am beginning to
>>> wonder
>>> if I dreamed it.
>>> Anyone familiar with the device?
>>>
>>> Max
>>
>> What's the advantage of the tapered hole/plug? Seems to me a straight
>> hole/plug would work as well or better. I ask in ernest.
>>
>> -Zz
>
> I think it is not so much the tapered plug as the pointed reamer that
> will follow a screw-hole much easier than a drill bit. I think a drill
> bit with a conical tip would have been more ideal but harder to make.
Any twist-drill has a conical tip. There are also the special tapered
bits intended for old-fashioned wood screws.
On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 14:47:43 -0600, "Max" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>More years ago than I can remember I came across a little kit for restoring
>screw holes. It was particularly handy for moving a strike plate for a door
>latch. The kit had a tapered bit to drill a hole that accepted a plug shaped
>like the sharpened end of a pencil. (it also included a pencil shaped piece
>of wood that could be sharpened in a pencil sharpener and used as a plug.)
>I've lost it, looked in all the catalogs I have and am beginning to wonder
>if I dreamed it.
>Anyone familiar with the device?
Yeah, they were OK, but they didn't work any better than doweling.
I keep a length of 1/4" dowel in the truck and use that when I need to
repair a client jamb. 1/4" drill, spot of TiteBond II, tap it in,
flushcut it, drill a new screwhole, insert screw. 10 minutes for a
permanent, professional fix.
For those clients who wish me to think of them in a Chinese curse, I
keep a short length of 3/8" dowel in the truck, too.
They're the type who think "Maybe a couple thousand more revolutions
with my Crapsman drill and a 3" drywall screw will make it catch."
--
Some people hear voices. Some see invisible people.
Others have no imagination whatsoever.
In news:N%[email protected],
Josepi <[email protected]> spewed forth:
> Toothpicks and glue.
>
> "Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> More years ago than I can remember I came across a little kit for
> restoring screw holes. It was particularly handy for moving a strike
> plate for a door latch. The kit had a tapered bit to drill a hole
> that accepted a plug shaped like the sharpened end of a pencil. (it
> also included a pencil shaped piece of wood that could be sharpened
> in a pencil sharpener and used as a plug.) I've lost it, looked in
> all the catalogs I have and am beginning to wonder if I dreamed it.
> Anyone familiar with the device?
>
> Max
I find that a wooden skewer works as well and is a bit quicker.
YMMV
I have often thought about using epoxy but always feared the scrwws would
not be able to penetrate it after hardening.
Putting the screws in before the epoxy hardens, my thoughts were I would
never be able to get them out, if needed.
What have your experiences been? Never needed to remove the scrwws,
yet?...LOL
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I'll see your tootyhpicks and glue and raise you (ALL IN) an epoxy
fairing putty repair.
Now that's the winner.
Lew
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
> Toothpicks and glue.
>
> WINNER!!!!!
--------------------------------