rR

27/08/2003 5:49 PM

Jumping into the deep end

This is a dust collection question. I have read oodles of articles
and books and threads on dust collection and that 6 inch lines to the
machine (PM 66) will result in much better airflow and less dust in my
shop. Here is my problem - how do you cut a 6 inch dust port in your
table saw without screwing it up? Just the idea of taking a cutting
device to the PM-66 kind of dries out my mouth and makes my palms
sweaty. Any ideas or should I just leave well enough alone and be
happy with the 4 inch dust port?

Rick

"It is better to keep your mouth shut and be thought a fool, than to
open it and remove all doubt." Abraham Lincoln


This topic has 3 replies

rR

in reply to [email protected] (Rick) on 27/08/2003 5:49 PM

28/08/2003 1:20 PM

Thanks to all for your replies! I feel much better about leaving the
4 inch port alone and I will put a smaller dust line to the top of the
saw. Thanks again!

Rick


Jamie Norwood <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Run 6" up to the saw and reduce to 4" at the saw port. It won't make
> that much difference. Don't plug up all the gaps in the saw under the
> table and around the cranks, it will reduce the airflow and make things
> worse rather than better. If the saw doesn't have a sloping bottom
> floor to the outlet you could make one from a piece of formica or
> masonite, it helps. Suction gets the big stuff, volume gets the fine dust.
> Jamie
>
> Rick wrote:
>
> >This is a dust collection question. I have read oodles of articles
> >and books and threads on dust collection and that 6 inch lines to the
> >machine (PM 66) will result in much better airflow and less dust in my
> >shop. Here is my problem - how do you cut a 6 inch dust port in your
> >table saw without screwing it up? Just the idea of taking a cutting
> >device to the PM-66 kind of dries out my mouth and makes my palms
> >sweaty. Any ideas or should I just leave well enough alone and be
> >happy with the 4 inch dust port?
> >
> >Rick
> >
> >"It is better to keep your mouth shut and be thought a fool, than to
> >open it and remove all doubt." Abraham Lincoln
> >

Mj

"Morgans"

in reply to [email protected] (Rick) on 27/08/2003 5:49 PM

27/08/2003 9:10 PM


"Rick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This is a dust collection question. I have read oodles of articles
> and books and threads on dust collection and that 6 inch lines to the
> machine (PM 66) will result in much better airflow and less dust in my
> shop. Here is my problem - how do you cut a 6 inch dust port in your
> table saw without screwing it up? Just the idea of taking a cutting
> device to the PM-66 kind of dries out my mouth and makes my palms
> sweaty. Any ideas or should I just leave well enough alone and be
> happy with the 4 inch dust port?
>
> Rick
>
> "It is better to keep your mouth shut and be thought a fool, than to
> open it and remove all doubt." Abraham Lincoln

A 4 inch is fine for the bottom section of the saw. Using 6" across the shop
is good for the friction losses of the air velocity.

What you can do is use a reducer, then a couple feet of 4" flex to the saw.
Right before the reducer, put a Y in for a 1 1/2" hose to go to a collector
in the guard, right above the blade. If not part of a guard, just a device
to suck sawdust that does not get into the bottom of the saw.

You may need to close off some of the space around the motor, where space
has been left for the motor to move, when it is set for mitering.
--
Jim in NC

cC

[email protected] (Charlie Self)

in reply to "Morgans" on 27/08/2003 9:10 PM

28/08/2003 9:17 AM

Morgans responds:

>
>"Rick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> This is a dust collection question. I have read oodles of articles
>> and books and threads on dust collection and that 6 inch lines to the
>> machine (PM 66) will result in much better airflow and less dust in my
>> shop.

>A 4 inch is fine for the bottom section of the saw. Using 6" across the shop
>is good for the friction losses of the air velocity.
>
>What you can do is use a reducer, then a couple feet of 4" flex to the saw.
>Right before the reducer, put a Y in for a 1 1/2" hose to go to a collector
>in the guard, right above the blade. If not part of a guard, just a device
>to suck sawdust that does not get into the bottom of the saw.
>
>You may need to close off some of the space around the motor, where space
>has been left for the motor to move, when it is set for mitering.

You're right all the way except for the need to leave space for the motor, or
to close of space around it. The PM66 motor is fully enclosed in the cabinet.

Charlie Self

"Verbosity leads to unclear, inarticulate things."
Dan Quayle, 11/30/88











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