A while ago I posted a message here that discussed a micrometer adjustment
for a Unisaw with a Unifence that I built. It uses a Starrett micrometer.
It is compact and stays out of the way until needed.
There were some people here that felt that it was an overkill in accuracy
(0.001") and was beyond the ability of the fence to hold it. Here are
pictures of the device.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v384/eganders/DSCF2037.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v384/eganders/DSCF2038.jpg
Well, the reason for my post is that I have found that it is not only
useful, it is MORE useful than the built-in one on my Excalibur fence. It
not only allows micro-adjustments, it has a readout. The readout allows me
to move the fence by 10, 20, 40 or 100 thousandths of an inch accurately up
to 1/2 inch. If I want a drawer to have a 0.125" clearance, I can adjust it
to interference with the drawer opening and cut an accurate 0.080 additional
clearance into the drawer front. Then I will only have about 0.045 more to
do with the handplane to get the 0.125 clearance I am looking for. It is
really nice to be able to put a set amount of adjustment into positioning
the fence. And yes, the fence keeps the accuracy very well.
If anyone is interested in this concept, it looks like the micrometer part
will run about $50 to $60 and the added effort for the rest of the device is
minimal in materials but about an hours work to fab. If anyone is
interested to the tune of about $130, let me know. I am considering that I
might be interested in making a few.
I would suggest that if you are moving the fence with the micrometer or
butting the fence to the micrometer this is not going to last too long. If
you kill it, rig a fine pitch screw to act as the stop and use an indicator
to show the amount of travel the screw makes.
Another idea would be to attach a DRO (digital read out) to the fence. That
would give you position over the whole range of the fence. These are nice
because the display is large and there is no need to squint.
--
Roger Shoaf
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.
"Eric Anderson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A while ago I posted a message here that discussed a micrometer adjustment
> for a Unisaw with a Unifence that I built. It uses a Starrett micrometer.
> It is compact and stays out of the way until needed.
>
> There were some people here that felt that it was an overkill in accuracy
> (0.001") and was beyond the ability of the fence to hold it. Here are
> pictures of the device.
>
>
> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v384/eganders/DSCF2037.jpg
>
>
> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v384/eganders/DSCF2038.jpg
>
>
> Well, the reason for my post is that I have found that it is not only
> useful, it is MORE useful than the built-in one on my Excalibur fence. It
> not only allows micro-adjustments, it has a readout. The readout allows
me
> to move the fence by 10, 20, 40 or 100 thousandths of an inch accurately
up
> to 1/2 inch. If I want a drawer to have a 0.125" clearance, I can adjust
it
> to interference with the drawer opening and cut an accurate 0.080
additional
> clearance into the drawer front. Then I will only have about 0.045 more
to
> do with the handplane to get the 0.125 clearance I am looking for. It is
> really nice to be able to put a set amount of adjustment into positioning
> the fence. And yes, the fence keeps the accuracy very well.
>
> If anyone is interested in this concept, it looks like the micrometer part
> will run about $50 to $60 and the added effort for the rest of the device
is
> minimal in materials but about an hours work to fab. If anyone is
> interested to the tune of about $130, let me know. I am considering that
I
> might be interested in making a few.
>
>
>
>
>
Don't be discouraged. Keep the ideas coming. I happen to like the
micrometer adjustment idea!
Seems there are two woodworking religions: those that believe approx
1/32'nd of an inch is close enough for all wood cuts and those that
seek infinite accuracy. Actually there'sa huge population of folks in
between that go to both "churches" depending on how much money they're
willing to spend.....
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 11 Jan 2005 17:21:12 -0500, "Eric Anderson"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> consider making a version for the biesemeyer.
I think HTC has already done this so to speak with their version of the
Bies.
Nicely built, and a sweet idea to boot. Very cool! Like you said, it ain't
for everyone, but what is?
Matthew
"Eric Anderson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>A while ago I posted a message here that discussed a micrometer adjustment
> for a Unisaw with a Unifence that I built. It uses a Starrett micrometer.
> It is compact and stays out of the way until needed.
>
> There were some people here that felt that it was an overkill in accuracy
> (0.001") and was beyond the ability of the fence to hold it. Here are
> pictures of the device.
>
>
> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v384/eganders/DSCF2037.jpg
>
>
> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v384/eganders/DSCF2038.jpg
>
>
> Well, the reason for my post is that I have found that it is not only
> useful, it is MORE useful than the built-in one on my Excalibur fence. It
> not only allows micro-adjustments, it has a readout. The readout allows
> me
> to move the fence by 10, 20, 40 or 100 thousandths of an inch accurately
> up
> to 1/2 inch. If I want a drawer to have a 0.125" clearance, I can adjust
> it
> to interference with the drawer opening and cut an accurate 0.080
> additional
> clearance into the drawer front. Then I will only have about 0.045 more
> to
> do with the handplane to get the 0.125 clearance I am looking for. It is
> really nice to be able to put a set amount of adjustment into positioning
> the fence. And yes, the fence keeps the accuracy very well.
>
> If anyone is interested in this concept, it looks like the micrometer part
> will run about $50 to $60 and the added effort for the rest of the device
> is
> minimal in materials but about an hours work to fab. If anyone is
> interested to the tune of about $130, let me know. I am considering that
> I
> might be interested in making a few.
>
>
>
>
>
"Eric Anderson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> No one has called me on any of mine either, but my personal goal is to
make
> the drawers in my projects the "star". One thing that I notice in almost
> every piece of commercial furniture is the abominable way the drawers
> operate. That is, their smoothness of operation and their the consistence
> of clearance around the openings. Many quite expensive pieces do not even
> have dovetailed drawers. In many cases opening the drawers gives me the
> same feeling that nails on a chalkboard provides. There is even the
> conclusion that softwood is acceptable for the sides since more expensive
> hard wood is not necessary where it is not seen. Soft wood sides gives a
> sluggish, hard to pull action. There is nothing comparable to a nice
> hardwood against hardwood lubed by paraffin in my experience.
>
Well... I'd largely agree with you Eric, except for the last part. I can
think of something that compares very well to the feel of a nice piece of
hardwood against hardwood lubed by paraffin, but this is a wood working
group and while my thoughts could easily use some of the same descriptors,
I'm afraid I'd be somewhat off topic...
Enjoy the hell out of your micro-creation and post some pics when you're
done, of the precision work you've knocked out with them. When someone
takes as much interest in something as you have in making your drawers the
"star", then it's worth sharing the end product with others.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Heh, the picture you see is before I did use it. It took me a month and a
half to get it into position. I wanted to make sure that it could do
everything (dados, microadjustments, handle my extension table, connected to
my dust collection system, put the 240 VAC in, etc.). By the way, I also
got the Might-T-Track fence upgrade otherwise I would not have been able to
use some of my jigs that worked on my Excalibur fence.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Have you used that saw yet? Looks awful clean...
>
>
"Eric Anderson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>A while ago I posted a message here that discussed a micrometer adjustment
> for a Unisaw with a Unifence that I built. It uses a Starrett micrometer.
> It is compact and stays out of the way until needed.
>
> There were some people here that felt that it was an overkill in accuracy
> (0.001") and was beyond the ability of the fence to hold it. Here are
> pictures of the device.
Have you used that saw yet? Looks awful clean...
On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 01:31:41 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Tue, 11 Jan 2005 17:21:12 -0500, "Eric Anderson"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>> consider making a version for the biesemeyer.
>
>I think HTC has already done this so to speak with their version of the
>Bies.
>
========================
Some one makes them...I even think Biesmeyer now has one....BUT
honestly I have never... needed ...nor even wanted... one in the 15 or
so years I have had my Bies...
I just do not have the need...
Bob Griffiths
On 14 Jan 2005 05:16:25 -0800, "Never Enough Money"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Don't be discouraged. Keep the ideas coming. I happen to like the
>micrometer adjustment idea!
>
>Seems there are two woodworking religions: those that believe approx
>1/32'nd of an inch is close enough for all wood cuts and those that
>seek infinite accuracy. Actually there'sa huge population of folks in
>between that go to both "churches" depending on how much money they're
>willing to spend.....
=================
Good reply ....
I honestly did not want to discourage the original poster.... BUT
your reply was right on the money.... I do attend both "churches"
but sometimes I do wonder why I am in one and not the other on any
particular day....
Bob Griffiths
On Tue, 11 Jan 2005 17:21:12 -0500, "Eric Anderson"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>A while ago I posted a message here that discussed a micrometer adjustment
>for a Unisaw with a Unifence that I built. It uses a Starrett micrometer.
>It is compact and stays out of the way until needed.
>
>There were some people here that felt that it was an overkill in accuracy
>(0.001") and was beyond the ability of the fence to hold it. Here are
>pictures of the device.
>
>
>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v384/eganders/DSCF2037.jpg
>
>
>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v384/eganders/DSCF2038.jpg
>
>
>Well, the reason for my post is that I have found that it is not only
>useful, it is MORE useful than the built-in one on my Excalibur fence. It
>not only allows micro-adjustments, it has a readout. The readout allows me
>to move the fence by 10, 20, 40 or 100 thousandths of an inch accurately up
>to 1/2 inch. If I want a drawer to have a 0.125" clearance, I can adjust it
>to interference with the drawer opening and cut an accurate 0.080 additional
>clearance into the drawer front. Then I will only have about 0.045 more to
>do with the handplane to get the 0.125 clearance I am looking for. It is
>really nice to be able to put a set amount of adjustment into positioning
>the fence. And yes, the fence keeps the accuracy very well.
>
>If anyone is interested in this concept, it looks like the micrometer part
>will run about $50 to $60 and the added effort for the rest of the device is
>minimal in materials but about an hours work to fab. If anyone is
>interested to the tune of about $130, let me know. I am considering that I
>might be interested in making a few.
>
>
>
>
consider making a version for the biesemeyer.
"Eric Anderson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Well, the reason for my post is that I have found that it is not only
> useful, it is MORE useful than the built-in one on my Excalibur fence. It
> not only allows micro-adjustments, it has a readout. The readout allows
me
> to move the fence by 10, 20, 40 or 100 thousandths of an inch accurately
up
> to 1/2 inch. If I want a drawer to have a 0.125" clearance, I can adjust
it
> to interference with the drawer opening and cut an accurate 0.080
additional
> clearance into the drawer front. Then I will only have about 0.045 more
to
> do with the handplane to get the 0.125 clearance I am looking for. It is
> really nice to be able to put a set amount of adjustment into positioning
> the fence. And yes, the fence keeps the accuracy very well.
>
I'm glad you find it useful Eric. I commented in your original post that
half of what we do is have fun with our tools, and making things. If this
brings you enjoyment, then that's a great thing. Me - I just don't worry
about a thousandth or two here or there on my drawer clearance. So far no
one has called me on it - maybe I'm just lucky.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
You know, it looks like another one of my "I can't believe that no one else
can see any value in this idea" scenerios. I wish like hell that I would
get over this bad run.
So far some of my ideas have consisted of a PIM database I designed in 1984
that I tried to market (not takers) that I used until I finally had to use
that damn Outlook because I got a Pocket PC in 2001 (mine was 1000 times
faster and did not lose contacts when I synced it with another computer like
that DAMN Outlook has done). I designed a Pocket PC clip that allowed a
Pocket PC to be held in a shirt pocket like a pen -- no takers. I DID
design a dry cleaning computer system in 1987 that sold well and I made
about $100,000 on. Need something like that again. I'll admit that 1 out
of 3 is not too bad. Just don't want to make it 1 out of 4.
I will say that I did not think I would use the micrometer specific
measurements -- just the ability to microadjust the fence, but the ability
to move the fence by small KNOWN amounts has been VERY useful so far. You
have to have the need, however.
"Bob G." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 01:31:41 GMT, "Leon"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> ><[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> On Tue, 11 Jan 2005 17:21:12 -0500, "Eric Anderson"
> >> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> consider making a version for the biesemeyer.
> >
> >I think HTC has already done this so to speak with their version of the
> >Bies.
> >
> ========================
> Some one makes them...I even think Biesmeyer now has one....BUT
> honestly I have never... needed ...nor even wanted... one in the 15 or
> so years I have had my Bies...
>
> I just do not have the need...
>
> Bob Griffiths
>
>
>
No one has called me on any of mine either, but my personal goal is to make
the drawers in my projects the "star". One thing that I notice in almost
every piece of commercial furniture is the abominable way the drawers
operate. That is, their smoothness of operation and their the consistence
of clearance around the openings. Many quite expensive pieces do not even
have dovetailed drawers. In many cases opening the drawers gives me the
same feeling that nails on a chalkboard provides. There is even the
conclusion that softwood is acceptable for the sides since more expensive
hard wood is not necessary where it is not seen. Soft wood sides gives a
sluggish, hard to pull action. There is nothing comparable to a nice
hardwood against hardwood lubed by paraffin in my experience.
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:vU%[email protected]...
>
> >
>
> I'm glad you find it useful Eric. I commented in your original post that
> half of what we do is have fun with our tools, and making things. If this
> brings you enjoyment, then that's a great thing. Me - I just don't worry
> about a thousandth or two here or there on my drawer clearance. So far no
> one has called me on it - maybe I'm just lucky.
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
>
>
>