Any you guys rebuild your own NiCad's or NiMh power tool batteries?
I'm going to do a few batteries of my own and maybe someone has some
tips or possibly some "look out fors". I ordered 100 sub c's to
rebuild a few batteries I've had kicking around.. I've been asking
around my area to see if anyone rebuilds them and everyone says no.
Maybe that's an open market for me. It would help keep me busier in
the winter.
RP
"Josepi" <[email protected]>:whined;
>Can you get .. my trolling? I am so cute huh?
>I post the best method for stirring as much shit as is
>possible to excite among dumbass schmucks. People
>that can't stay on topic get most of my attaention.
>I understand attention whores.
>
Indeed so Bengi.. or would you prefer one of
your girly names?
Pizza Gurl?
It is all you get to choose.
How's that "watch for cHips" filter working in your head?
You finish that jug yet?
Time you were just getting cranked up innit?
"Crank" being the keyword.
[smirk]
cHips
Stuart wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Stuart <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>In article <[email protected]>,
>> Josepi <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>This techniqee used to be to break down the nickle bridges in NiCad
>>>cells when they went shorted internally.
>
>
>>Possibly but usually you give them a very short burst from a car battery.
>
>
>>>Most capacitors would not have the capacity to actually weld metal.
>
>
>>Remember you're only trying to spot weld very thin metal. I'll try to
>>find the original article if I can.
>
>
> Elektor magazine Nov 2006.
>
> Guy used eight 10,000 microfarad capacitors in parallel.
>
Does the article say what the voltage rating on the capacitors were? A
single 10,000 uF electrolytic capacitor rated for 160 volts is about $50.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
In article <[email protected]>,
J. Clarke <[email protected]> wrote:
> The trouble is that they aren't really much cheaper than new deWalts,
> and doing it right you need a welder, which costs about the same to
> cobble up as a couple of new deWalts.
Saw an article in an electronics mag where they charged up some biggish
capacitors and used them to arc-weld battery packs.
In article <[email protected]>,
Josepi <[email protected]> wrote:
> This techniqee used to be to break down the nickle bridges in NiCad
> cells when they went shorted internally.
Possibly but usually you give them a very short burst from a car battery.
> Most capacitors would not have the capacity to actually weld metal.
Remember you're only trying to spot weld very thin metal. I'll try to find
the original article if I can.
In article <[email protected]>,
Stuart <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Josepi <[email protected]> wrote:
> > This techniqee used to be to break down the nickle bridges in NiCad
> > cells when they went shorted internally.
> Possibly but usually you give them a very short burst from a car battery.
> > Most capacitors would not have the capacity to actually weld metal.
> Remember you're only trying to spot weld very thin metal. I'll try to
> find the original article if I can.
Elektor magazine Nov 2006.
Guy used eight 10,000 microfarad capacitors in parallel.
In article <[email protected]>,
Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
> Does the article say what the voltage rating on the capacitors were? A
> single 10,000 uF electrolytic capacitor rated for 160 volts is about $50.
35V - about the size of a "C" cell.
The capacitors are charged using an ordinary bench power supply because,
in effect, the current can be can varied by varying the voltage on the
capacitors. Looking at the article it is slightly more sophisticated in
that it uses a handful of BUZ11 mosfets and a microcontroller (though the
microcontroller could be replced with a comparator and 555 timer).
The microcontroller circuit detects when you are holding the two tags
together, waits one second and then turns on the welding current using the
FETS.
If you want to know more I believe you can download the original article
from their website for a small fee.
"Josepi/Gymmy Bob" <[email protected]>snuck the feeler gauge in with;
>The batteries may be safer...on the batteries.
>
You would know... from your days stripping out batteries in that
recycle yard you claim you took money from, as wages.
>Capacitors have a limited amount of foil and material thickness in
>them and most come with warning not
>to short them out as it blows holes in the foils or conductors internally.
>
Well.. duuuh.
You masturbating over your finds in Popular Mechanics... again?
>Thanx for top posting. It works much better than the garbage confusion at
>the bottom.
>
The guy is a machinist.
Likely his eyes are fucked.
And he is using Easynews.
So, according to you, he is a troll.
Why then are you feeding a troll, yer top posting
fuckwit.
--
cHips
On Nov 9, 3:06=A0pm, Max George <[email protected]>
wrote:
> In message
> <[email protected]>, RP
> <[email protected]> writes>Any you guys rebuild your own NiCad's or NiMh p=
ower tool batteries?
> >I'm going to do a few batteries of my own and maybe someone has some
> >tips or possibly some "look out fors". I ordered 100 sub c's to
> >rebuild a few batteries I've had kicking around.. I've been asking
> >around my area to see if anyone rebuilds them and everyone says no.
> >Maybe that's an open market for me. It would help keep me busier in
> >the winter.
>
> Try looking on sites associated with electric powered model aircraft. We
> have been making batteries out of nicads and Nimhs for years.
>
> In fact we have been known to buy power tool batteries and cannibalise
> them to provide our RC plane batteries!
>
> Try Red's Battery clinic.
>
> http://www.hangtimes.com/redsbatteryclinic.html
>
> Also
>
> There is a section there relating to soldering cells.
>
> I have built quite a lot of packs in my time and all have been OK.
>
> One thing I have found useful is to use the desoldering wick that is a
> rope of copperstrands. If you manage to leave a little bit of the wick
> where it hasn't fluxed up the solder it allows a little flexibility
> which can help with vibration.
>
> Use a big soldering iron, 100 watts or so and get it hot at the start.
> Do not use the sort that heats up for each individual joint it puts too
> much heat into the cell case while it heats up.
>
> Make sure you clean the cells carefully and tin them quickly using the
> large iron. Then attach the wires with just a quick dab of the iron.
>
> Have some electric freezer spray to squirt on the tinning and on to the
> joint after soldering to clear the residual heat.
>
> I echo the point about the new lithium cells. They need special chargers
> otherwise they can be dangerous.
>
> I have not tried making lithium cell packs as yet. However I do believe
> they sell them with tags on and you can solder the cell tags OK.
>
> One thing you need to do is to hold the cells together and a good way to
> do that is to push them together and use a blob of hot melt glue to
> stick them.
>
> HTH
> --
> Max George
Hey, thanks for the tips George. I misspoke on the L-ion thing. I want
to rebuild some nicads w/solder tabs. I upgraded my newest kit to the
18v makita l-ion gig and i'm real happy with that. They say you cannot
upgrade to nimh and charge with a nicad charger because it won't reach
full charge ever. I'll check out Red's battery clinic. Muchos
Grassyass
RP
Can you get LioN batteries with tabs on them? Where?
I understand they (LioN) require very specialized charging circuits with
temp sensors and things that Ni-Cad don't have so I doubt they would be
usable as an upgrade.
I post the best method for clarity of reading. People that can't stay on
topic get killfiltered.
"RP" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:ee39ab9f-cd1b-429a-8fa2-
I did order the Sub c batteries w/tabs. I have upgraded to L-ion for
my road tools(makita 18v L-ion) and some small shop drills/impacts(12V
hitachi) but I have a 3 12V B&D firestorm drills and 6 batteries that
I want to bring around. They are short and handy and powerful enough
for my needs. They have the pop off chuck that works fine too. I keep
different bits in them so I can just keep on drillin' and screwin' at
will. I have to believe there's lots of guys in my area that want
NiCad rebuilds. I'm going to put a sign out and give it a shot. If I
don't get any bites, I won't order any more batteries.
I thought we were supposed to bottom post.
RP
[email protected]...
On Nov 8, 5:51 pm, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Make sure they have leads welded on to them. Don't attempt to solder,
> directly to them.
>
> Lean towrds NiMh if you can get them. The charger requirements are about
> the
> same. If you have to use Ni-Cad through the old tools out and start again
> with LioN tools.
>
> "RP" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
> Any you guys rebuild your own NiCad's or NiMh power tool batteries?
> I'm going to do a few batteries of my own and maybe someone has some
> tips or possibly some "look out fors". I ordered 100 sub c's to
> rebuild a few batteries I've had kicking around.. I've been asking
> around my area to see if anyone rebuilds them and everyone says no.
> Maybe that's an open market for me. It would help keep me busier in
> the winter.
>
> RP
In article <b119b2c1-5d06-49c1-b9eb-c8058f285713
@a9g2000pro.googlegroups.com>, [email protected] says...
>
> On Nov 8, 2:39 pm, RP <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Any you guys rebuild your own NiCad's or NiMh power tool batteries?
>
> There are lots of people on the web that do this as a service. Also
> several good tutorials with step-by-step and pictures if you just
> google a bit.
The trouble is that they aren't really much cheaper than new deWalts,
and doing it right you need a welder, which costs about the same to
cobble up as a couple of new deWalts.
If you've got the welder and can identify the bad cell then fixing them
is definitely worthwhile.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> Stuart wrote:
> > In article <[email protected]>,
> > Stuart <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >>In article <[email protected]>,
> >> Josepi <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>
> >>>This techniqee used to be to break down the nickle bridges in NiCad
> >>>cells when they went shorted internally.
> >
> >
> >>Possibly but usually you give them a very short burst from a car battery.
> >
> >
> >>>Most capacitors would not have the capacity to actually weld metal.
> >
> >
> >>Remember you're only trying to spot weld very thin metal. I'll try to
> >>find the original article if I can.
> >
> >
> > Elektor magazine Nov 2006.
> >
> > Guy used eight 10,000 microfarad capacitors in parallel.
> >
>
> Does the article say what the voltage rating on the capacitors were? A
> single 10,000 uF electrolytic capacitor rated for 160 volts is about $50.
Capacitors of several farads are readily available for not insanely high
prices. Battery tab welders have been made from the 2 or so farad 20v
"stiffening capacitors" used in car audio systems.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> Shoot - the problem is voltage. Kids play with caps larger
> than that in the small charge and go cars. The caps are up
> in the farad size but 3v. Kills batteries fast.
>
> Getting a set of those is trivial Making a series set and
> then parallel sets. The issue is conduction voltage.
>
> If you have clean materials - no much oxides a lower voltage
> will work.
>
> But I have seen screw drivers used to discharge cap banks that have
> large hunks flashed out of them in usage.
>
> Hard to beat 24v car batteries - 2 each 12v in series to weld with.
Except that these days that will cost you more than capacitors unless
you work in a service station or otherwise accumulate working car
batteries.
Why reinvent the wheel?
<http://ledhacks.com/power/battery_tab_welder.htm>.
>
> Martin
>
> On 11/11/2010 4:46 PM, cHips wrote:
> > Stuart<[email protected]> announced;
> >> In article<[email protected]>,
> >> Stuart<[email protected]> wrote:
> >>> In article<[email protected]>,
> >>> Josepi<[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>> This techniqee used to be to break down the nickle bridges in NiCad
> >>>> cells when they went shorted internally.
> >>
> > Same "techniqee"[sic] you (Gymmy Bob/Josepi) use for same
> > reason - internal shorting, of groups.
> > How is it working out for you so far amongst the sawdust sniffers?
> >
> >>> Possibly but usually you give them a very short burst from a car battery.
> >>
> >>>> Most capacitors would not have the capacity to actually weld metal.
> >>
> >>> Remember you're only trying to spot weld very thin metal. I'll try to
> >>> find the original article if I can.
> >>
> >> Elektor magazine Nov 2006.
> >>
> >> Guy used eight 10,000 microfarad capacitors in parallel.
> >>
> > Nice one, Stuart.
> > Not something I would try at home though:-]
> >
> > Gymmy/Josie is smiling.. you took the hook and
> > worked.
> >
Both Ni-Cad and NiMh use a constant current technique to charge and most of
these constant current chargers have a high saturation voltage to accomplish
this. The cell voltages are identical for all practicable purposes so the
added capacity of the NiMh should only take longer to charge.
"RP" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:6e1de162-2a3b-4aa7-a9d2-80ccb7dfc64f@j25g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
Hey, thanks for the tips George. I misspoke on the L-ion thing. I want
to rebuild some nicads w/solder tabs. I upgraded my newest kit to the
18v makita l-ion gig and i'm real happy with that. They say you cannot
upgrade to nimh and charge with a nicad charger because it won't reach
full charge ever. I'll check out Red's battery clinic. Muchos
Grassyass
RP
On Nov 9, 3:06 pm, Max George <[email protected]>
wrote:
> In message
> <[email protected]>, RP
> <[email protected]> writes>Any you guys rebuild your own NiCad's or NiMh
> power tool batteries?
> >I'm going to do a few batteries of my own and maybe someone has some
> >tips or possibly some "look out fors". I ordered 100 sub c's to
> >rebuild a few batteries I've had kicking around.. I've been asking
> >around my area to see if anyone rebuilds them and everyone says no.
> >Maybe that's an open market for me. It would help keep me busier in
> >the winter.
>
> Try looking on sites associated with electric powered model aircraft. We
> have been making batteries out of nicads and Nimhs for years.
>
> In fact we have been known to buy power tool batteries and cannibalise
> them to provide our RC plane batteries!
>
> Try Red's Battery clinic.
>
> http://www.hangtimes.com/redsbatteryclinic.html
>
> Also
>
>There is a section there relating to soldering cells.
>
> I have built quite a lot of packs in my time and all have been OK.
>
> One thing I have found useful is to use the desoldering wick that is a
> rope of copperstrands. If you manage to leave a little bit of the wick
> where it hasn't fluxed up the solder it allows a little flexibility
> which can help with vibration.
>
> Use a big soldering iron, 100 watts or so and get it hot at the start.
> Do not use the sort that heats up for each individual joint it puts too
> much heat into the cell case while it heats up.
>
> Make sure you clean the cells carefully and tin them quickly using the
> large iron. Then attach the wires with just a quick dab of the iron.
>
> Have some electric freezer spray to squirt on the tinning and on to the
> joint after soldering to clear the residual heat.
>
> I echo the point about the new lithium cells. They need special chargers
> otherwise they can be dangerous.
>
> I have not tried making lithium cell packs as yet. However I do believe
> they sell them with tags on and you can solder the cell tags OK.
>
> One thing you need to do is to hold the cells together and a good way to
> do that is to push them together and use a blob of hot melt glue to
> stick them.
>
> HTH
> --
> Max George
In message
<[email protected]>, RP
<[email protected]> writes
>Any you guys rebuild your own NiCad's or NiMh power tool batteries?
>I'm going to do a few batteries of my own and maybe someone has some
>tips or possibly some "look out fors". I ordered 100 sub c's to
>rebuild a few batteries I've had kicking around.. I've been asking
>around my area to see if anyone rebuilds them and everyone says no.
>Maybe that's an open market for me. It would help keep me busier in
>the winter.
Try looking on sites associated with electric powered model aircraft. We
have been making batteries out of nicads and Nimhs for years.
In fact we have been known to buy power tool batteries and cannibalise
them to provide our RC plane batteries!
Try Red's Battery clinic.
http://www.hangtimes.com/redsbatteryclinic.html
Also
There is a section there relating to soldering cells.
I have built quite a lot of packs in my time and all have been OK.
One thing I have found useful is to use the desoldering wick that is a
rope of copperstrands. If you manage to leave a little bit of the wick
where it hasn't fluxed up the solder it allows a little flexibility
which can help with vibration.
Use a big soldering iron, 100 watts or so and get it hot at the start.
Do not use the sort that heats up for each individual joint it puts too
much heat into the cell case while it heats up.
Make sure you clean the cells carefully and tin them quickly using the
large iron. Then attach the wires with just a quick dab of the iron.
Have some electric freezer spray to squirt on the tinning and on to the
joint after soldering to clear the residual heat.
I echo the point about the new lithium cells. They need special chargers
otherwise they can be dangerous.
I have not tried making lithium cell packs as yet. However I do believe
they sell them with tags on and you can solder the cell tags OK.
One thing you need to do is to hold the cells together and a good way to
do that is to push them together and use a blob of hot melt glue to
stick them.
HTH
--
Max George
Stuart <[email protected]> announced;
>In article <[email protected]>,
> Stuart <[email protected]> wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>> Josepi <[email protected]> wrote:
>> > This techniqee used to be to break down the nickle bridges in NiCad
>> > cells when they went shorted internally.
>
Same "techniqee"[sic] you (Gymmy Bob/Josepi) use for same
reason - internal shorting, of groups.
How is it working out for you so far amongst the sawdust sniffers?
>> Possibly but usually you give them a very short burst from a car battery.
>
>> > Most capacitors would not have the capacity to actually weld metal.
>
>> Remember you're only trying to spot weld very thin metal. I'll try to
>> find the original article if I can.
>
>Elektor magazine Nov 2006.
>
>Guy used eight 10,000 microfarad capacitors in parallel.
>
Nice one, Stuart.
Not something I would try at home though:-]
Gymmy/Josie is smiling.. you took the hook and
worked.
--
cHips
Make sure they have leads welded on to them. Don't attempt to solder,
directly to them.
Lean towrds NiMh if you can get them. The charger requirements are about the
same. If you have to use Ni-Cad through the old tools out and start again
with LioN tools.
"RP" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Any you guys rebuild your own NiCad's or NiMh power tool batteries?
I'm going to do a few batteries of my own and maybe someone has some
tips or possibly some "look out fors". I ordered 100 sub c's to
rebuild a few batteries I've had kicking around.. I've been asking
around my area to see if anyone rebuilds them and everyone says no.
Maybe that's an open market for me. It would help keep me busier in
the winter.
RP
The batteries may be safer...on the batteries. Capacitors have a limited
amount of foil and material thickness in them and most come with warning not
to short them out as it blows holes in the foils or conductors internally.
Thanx for top posting. It works much better than the garbage confusion at
the bottom.
"Martin Eastburn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Shoot - the problem is voltage. Kids play with caps larger
than that in the small charge and go cars. The caps are up
in the farad size but 3v. Kills batteries fast.
Getting a set of those is trivial Making a series set and
then parallel sets. The issue is conduction voltage.
If you have clean materials - no much oxides a lower voltage
will work.
But I have seen screw drivers used to discharge cap banks that have
large hunks flashed out of them in usage.
Hard to beat 24v car batteries - 2 each 12v in series to weld with.
Martin
On 11/11/2010 4:46 PM, cHips wrote:
> Stuart<[email protected]> announced;
>> In article<[email protected]>,
>> Stuart<[email protected]> wrote:
>>> In article<[email protected]>,
>>> Josepi<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> This techniqee used to be to break down the nickle bridges in NiCad
>>>> cells when they went shorted internally.
>>
> Same "techniqee"[sic] you (Gymmy Bob/Josepi) use for same
> reason - internal shorting, of groups.
> How is it working out for you so far amongst the sawdust sniffers?
>
>>> Possibly but usually you give them a very short burst from a car
>>> battery.
>>
>>>> Most capacitors would not have the capacity to actually weld metal.
>>
>>> Remember you're only trying to spot weld very thin metal. I'll try to
>>> find the original article if I can.
>>
>> Elektor magazine Nov 2006.
>>
>> Guy used eight 10,000 microfarad capacitors in parallel.
>>
> Nice one, Stuart.
> Not something I would try at home though:-]
>
> Gymmy/Josie is smiling.. you took the hook and
> worked.
>
On Nov 12, 10:21=A0am, Hoosierpopi <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Nov 8, 5:39=A0pm, RP <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Any you guys rebuild your own NiCad's or NiMh power tool batteries?
> > I'm going to do a few batteries of my own and maybe someone has some
> > tips or possibly some "look out fors". I ordered 100 sub c's to
> > rebuild a few batteries I've had kicking around.. I've been asking
> > around my area to see if anyone rebuilds them and everyone says no.
> > Maybe that's an open market for me. It would help keep me busier in
> > the winter.
>
> > RP
>
> Search rebuild power tool batteries. THere's a place that offers them
> - but the cost ain't cheap!
>
> Supposedly, you can "zap" the old cells and bring them back to life.
> I've yet to try this myself.
>
> Where you you get the batteries you mentioned? How much do they cost
> in small quantities?
I got the batteries from ebay from the vendor "battery geek 1". The
most cost efficient way for shipping is to buy 25 at a time.
RP
RP <[email protected]>:asked in a post:
>On Nov 8, 5:51 pm, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Make sure .. you killfile me
/sawn
>
>I did order the Sub c batteries w/tabs. I have upgraded to L-ion for
>my road tools(makita 18v L-ion) and some small shop drills/impacts(12V
>hitachi) but I have a 3 12V B&D firestorm drills and 6 batteries that
>I want to bring around. They are short and handy and powerful enough
>for my needs. They have the pop off chuck that works fine too. I keep
>different bits in them so I can just keep on drillin' and screwin' at
>will. I have to believe there's lots of guys in my area that want
>NiCad rebuilds. I'm going to put a sign out and give it a shot. If I
>don't get any bites, I won't order any more batteries.
>
NiCad is redundant.
>I thought we were supposed to bottom post.
>
When you choose to have your input read and
taken as a genuine contribution?
Of course.
Usenet is not eMail.
Likewise DNFTT applies.
Josepi has stooped to anything to get noticed.
Ask anyone using the name "Mike". The little mexican hatez
Mikes. Yet loves trolling them, and stalks them anywhere they
post. He is one busy Troll.
Make the medium enjoyable for all.
Read all you want, just hold back "Reply To" when you see
these headers:
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
X-Complaints-To: [email protected]
~enjoy
cHips
On Nov 8, 2:39=A0pm, RP <[email protected]> wrote:
> Any you guys rebuild your own NiCad's or NiMh power tool batteries?
There are lots of people on the web that do this as a service. Also
several good tutorials with step-by-step and pictures if you just
google a bit.
On Nov 8, 5:39=A0pm, RP <[email protected]> wrote:
> Any you guys rebuild your own NiCad's or NiMh power tool batteries?
> I'm going to do a few batteries of my own and maybe someone has some
> tips or possibly some "look out fors". I ordered 100 sub c's to
> rebuild a few batteries I've had kicking around.. I've been asking
> around my area to see if anyone rebuilds them and everyone says no.
> Maybe that's an open market for me. It would help keep me busier in
> the winter.
>
> RP
Search rebuild power tool batteries. THere's a place that offers them
- but the cost ain't cheap!
Supposedly, you can "zap" the old cells and bring them back to life.
I've yet to try this myself.
Where you you get the batteries you mentioned? How much do they cost
in small quantities?
On Nov 8, 5:51=A0pm, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Make sure they have leads welded on to them. Don't attempt to solder,
> directly to them.
>
> Lean towrds NiMh if you can get them. The charger requirements are about =
the
> same. If you have to use Ni-Cad through the old tools out and start again
> with LioN tools.
>
> "RP" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
> Any you guys rebuild your own NiCad's or NiMh power tool batteries?
> I'm going to do a few batteries of my own and maybe someone has some
> tips or possibly some "look out fors". I ordered 100 sub c's to
> rebuild a few batteries I've had kicking around.. I've been asking
> around my area to see if anyone rebuilds them and everyone says no.
> Maybe that's an open market for me. It would help keep me busier in
> the winter.
>
> RP
I did order the Sub c batteries w/tabs. I have upgraded to L-ion for
my road tools(makita 18v L-ion) and some small shop drills/impacts(12V
hitachi) but I have a 3 12V B&D firestorm drills and 6 batteries that
I want to bring around. They are short and handy and powerful enough
for my needs. They have the pop off chuck that works fine too. I keep
different bits in them so I can just keep on drillin' and screwin' at
will. I have to believe there's lots of guys in my area that want
NiCad rebuilds. I'm going to put a sign out and give it a shot. If I
don't get any bites, I won't order any more batteries.
I thought we were supposed to bottom post.
RP
Shoot - the problem is voltage. Kids play with caps larger
than that in the small charge and go cars. The caps are up
in the farad size but 3v. Kills batteries fast.
Getting a set of those is trivial Making a series set and
then parallel sets. The issue is conduction voltage.
If you have clean materials - no much oxides a lower voltage
will work.
But I have seen screw drivers used to discharge cap banks that have
large hunks flashed out of them in usage.
Hard to beat 24v car batteries - 2 each 12v in series to weld with.
Martin
On 11/11/2010 4:46 PM, cHips wrote:
> Stuart<[email protected]> announced;
>> In article<[email protected]>,
>> Stuart<[email protected]> wrote:
>>> In article<[email protected]>,
>>> Josepi<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> This techniqee used to be to break down the nickle bridges in NiCad
>>>> cells when they went shorted internally.
>>
> Same "techniqee"[sic] you (Gymmy Bob/Josepi) use for same
> reason - internal shorting, of groups.
> How is it working out for you so far amongst the sawdust sniffers?
>
>>> Possibly but usually you give them a very short burst from a car battery.
>>
>>>> Most capacitors would not have the capacity to actually weld metal.
>>
>>> Remember you're only trying to spot weld very thin metal. I'll try to
>>> find the original article if I can.
>>
>> Elektor magazine Nov 2006.
>>
>> Guy used eight 10,000 microfarad capacitors in parallel.
>>
> Nice one, Stuart.
> Not something I would try at home though:-]
>
> Gymmy/Josie is smiling.. you took the hook and
> worked.
>
"Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote
> Supposedly, you can "zap" the old cells and bring them back to life.
> I've yet to try this myself.
Don't. It kills them all. I did and regret it. I now have 9 unusable
packs and 6 packs that only work for a while. Zapping them makes them die
much quicker, IMHO.
My advice is to combine packs to extend life. Charge a pack, then wait a
day and take apart the pack, and read individual cell voltage. You will
usually have 2 or 3 cells fail to hold a charge before the rest. Cut the
solder tab in the middle between cells, and put cells from another pack in
their place and solder back together.
--
Jim in NC
This techniqee used to be to break down the nickle bridges in NiCad cells
when they went shorted internally. Most capacitors would not have the
capacity to actually weld metal.
Most people do not know capacitors have a max. ampere capacity rating.
Mostly it is not required to know.
"Stuart" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Saw an article in an electronics mag where they charged up some biggish
capacitors and used them to arc-weld battery packs.
In article <[email protected]>,
J. Clarke <[email protected]> wrote:
> The trouble is that they aren't really much cheaper than new deWalts,
> and doing it right you need a welder, which costs about the same to
> cobble up as a couple of new deWalts.