On occasion, I need to cut aluminum stock, both 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8"
angle stock and 1" x 1/4" flat stock.
I have always used one of those metal-cutting wheels in my 10" Delta
Miter Saw, similar to this:
http://www.westerntool.com/10-inch-cut-off-wheel-metal.html
The other day, I was watching "How It's Made" and they showed the
process used to make Carbide Tips saw blades. They started with the
raw steel and followed the process through to the final product.
At the end of the segment, they showed a carbide-tipped blade in a
miter saw cutting through a steel rod with the voice over saying
something like:
"And when they're finished, they're strong enough to cut through the
steel that they are made from."
Somehow, I'm reluctant to start using my carbide tipped blades to cut
my aluminum stock. The thought of the teeth grabbing the angle iron
just scares the bejesus out of me. But if they can be used to cut
steel, aluminum should be a breeze.
Am I right to be afraid, be very afraid?
Are the cutoff wheels, even with the melting and subsequent filing/
grinding that I have to put up with, still the best option?
Thanks!
> Cut twice once rough and a little long then a second time to exact
> length to square the cut. =A0Of course you put the 12" end on the side
> _away_ from the arm.
I've never had to cut twice -- and I've always got perfect cuts (so
long as I clamp the piece). In fact, I just checked, and I have some
good closeups of some results on my web page: http://www.ulvr.com/john/trai=
n/hints.htm?bk=3DFFFFFF
(the top piece is cut without a clamp, the bottom with a clamp.
On Apr 15, 6:28=A0pm, whit3rd <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Apr 15, 8:38=A0am, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > The other day, I was watching "How It's Made" and they showed the
> > process used to make Carbide Tips saw blades.
> >... showed a carbide-tipped blade in a
> > miter saw cutting through a steel rod
> > Somehow, I'm reluctant to start using my carbide tipped blades to cut
> > my aluminum stock. The thought of the teeth grabbing the angle iron
> > just scares the bejesus out of me.
>
> The woodworking carbide blades are ground to different rake and
> clearance
> from aluminum/nonferrous metal blades. =A0Ferrous blades are either
> abrasive types, or are run at VERY slow cut rates; even if your
> bandsaw has the right blade, it can burn the teeth off if you try
> it at woodworking blade speed into an iron workpiece.
>
> I've never seen a woodwork-type circular saw that was right for
> cutting steel with a carbide blade. =A0 Closest is some of the
> 'renovation' blades that are made to proceed through nails in lumber.
I'd like to share what the guy at the local "Saw and Knife" store just
told me and ask for your opinion.
For 1.5 " x 1.5" x 1/8" Alumninum angle stock and 1" x 1/4" Alumninum
flat stock, he said:
Based on the thickness of the material, 60 TPI is probably the highest
you want to go. Above that you run the risk of melting the stock and
have it weld back together behind the cut. 80 TPI and above is for
very thin material.
Best tooth design is Negative Hook Angle, Triple Chip Grind. Alternate
Top Bevel, especially with a Positive hook will dull very, very
quickly.
Cut the Angle stock legs down.
Cut the 1" x 1/4" flat stock "standing up" - clamp it so the the 1"
surface is against the fence.
According to that info, the $59 Diablo non-ferrous 84 TPI blade that
HD carries doesn't sound like what I want to use. The Saw and Knife
place has a $79 blade in stock that fits the specs he laid out.
Your thoughts?
I've got a Freud metal blade (it says it can cut aluminum right on the
blade...) for that, and done tons of cuts on aluminum. Two things
I've learned -- clamp the aluminum to your fence or the aluminum will
move when the cut is almost done, ruining your finish. Second, make
sure your fence is strong... (I had a wooden fence with one to many
notches. One of my cuts broke the fence, and sent the aluminum
flying. Made a decent dent in my wall. luckily the ricochet
missed...).
The cuts I get are very clean. If you want shiny clean, you can use
your oscillating sander to do that (I have a special belt for that,
and so far it's still good).
John
On Apr 15, 11:38=A0am, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> On occasion, I need to cut aluminum stock, both 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8"
> angle stock and 1" x 1/4" flat stock.
>
> I have always used one of those metal-cutting wheels in my 10" Delta
> Miter Saw, similar to this:
>
> http://www.westerntool.com/10-inch-cut-off-wheel-metal.html
>
> The other day, I was watching "How It's Made" and they showed the
> process used to make Carbide Tips saw blades. They started with the
> raw steel and followed the process through to the final product.
>
> At the end of the segment, they showed a carbide-tipped blade in a
> miter saw cutting through a steel rod with the voice over saying
> something like:
>
> "And when they're finished, they're strong enough to cut through the
> steel that they are made from."
>
> Somehow, I'm reluctant to start using my carbide tipped blades to cut
> my aluminum stock. The thought of the teeth grabbing the angle iron
> just scares the bejesus out of me. But if they can be used to cut
> steel, aluminum should be a breeze.
>
> Am I right to be afraid, be very afraid?
>
> Are the cutoff wheels, even with the melting and subsequent filing/
> grinding that I have to put up with, still the best option?
>
> Thanks!
The POS Porter Cable 10" blade that came with my
chop saw won't cut wood worth a damn, but it does
fine in my table saw for cutting aluminum channel.
It's an intimidating operation if you've never done it
before, but easy once you try.
"DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On occasion, I need to cut aluminum stock, both 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8"
> angle stock and 1" x 1/4" flat stock.
>
> I have always used one of those metal-cutting wheels in my 10" Delta
> Miter Saw, similar to this:
>
> http://www.westerntool.com/10-inch-cut-off-wheel-metal.html
>
> The other day, I was watching "How It's Made" and they showed the
> process used to make Carbide Tips saw blades. They started with the
> raw steel and followed the process through to the final product.
>
> At the end of the segment, they showed a carbide-tipped blade in a
> miter saw cutting through a steel rod with the voice over saying
> something like:
>
> "And when they're finished, they're strong enough to cut through the
> steel that they are made from."
>
> Somehow, I'm reluctant to start using my carbide tipped blades to cut
> my aluminum stock. The thought of the teeth grabbing the angle iron
> just scares the bejesus out of me. But if they can be used to cut
> steel, aluminum should be a breeze.
>
> Am I right to be afraid, be very afraid?
>
> Are the cutoff wheels, even with the melting and subsequent filing/
> grinding that I have to put up with, still the best option?
>
> Thanks!
>
Unless the sluminum is some special kind of hardness, it shouldn't be a
problem. There are a lot of metal shops who use a radial arm saw for this
sort of thing.
And the cold cut saws are just a beffed up miter saw with a diamond blade.
And if you are really paranoid, there is always a hacksaw.
"DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:89764b8e-fe10-4ee9-b0af-c5b9c1ff0528@z11g2000yqz.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 15, 11:44 am, "Lee Michaels"
<leemichaels*[email protected]> wrote:
> "DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > On occasion, I need to cut aluminum stock, both 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8"
> > angle stock and 1" x 1/4" flat stock.
>
> > I have always used one of those metal-cutting wheels in my 10" Delta
> > Miter Saw, similar to this:
>
> >http://www.westerntool.com/10-inch-cut-off-wheel-metal.html
>
> > The other day, I was watching "How It's Made" and they showed the
> > process used to make Carbide Tips saw blades. They started with the
> > raw steel and followed the process through to the final product.
>
> > At the end of the segment, they showed a carbide-tipped blade in a
> > miter saw cutting through a steel rod with the voice over saying
> > something like:
>
> > "And when they're finished, they're strong enough to cut through the
> > steel that they are made from."
>
> > Somehow, I'm reluctant to start using my carbide tipped blades to cut
> > my aluminum stock. The thought of the teeth grabbing the angle iron
> > just scares the bejesus out of me. But if they can be used to cut
> > steel, aluminum should be a breeze.
>
> > Am I right to be afraid, be very afraid?
>
> > Are the cutoff wheels, even with the melting and subsequent filing/
> > grinding that I have to put up with, still the best option?
>
> > Thanks!
>
> Unless the sluminum is some special kind of hardness, it shouldn't be a
> problem. There are a lot of metal shops who use a radial arm saw for this
> sort of thing.
>
> And the cold cut saws are just a beffed up miter saw with a diamond blade.
>
> And if you are really paranoid, there is always a hacksaw.- Hide quoted
> text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Thanks for the hack-saw tip, but paranoia isn't an issue since I've
been using the cut-off wheel in the miter saw for years, for aluminum
as well as steel.
I'm just curious as to whether I'd get a smoother cut with a carbide
tipped blade and if it would be safe to use on angle iron, especially
as to how the spinning teeth would first make conact with the upright
portion of the angle iron.
>
I assume that you are talking about an abrasive wheel. Those things are
dirty!
I never used carbide blades on aluminum myself. I usually had a bandsaw or
recip saw handy.
When I do cut angle though, I usually face it down so the saw first touches
it on the back of the angle. As long as you have a way to hold it firmly, it
should work. Most metal saws have some kind of clamping arrangement.
If I had to do it on a wood miter saw, I would come up with some kind of
block to put over the angle and clamp it down.
On Apr 15, 12:35=A0pm, Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 08:59:38 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > I'm just curious as to whether I'd get a smoother cut with a carbide
> > tipped blade and if it would be safe to use on angle iron, especially a=
s
> > to how the spinning teeth would first make conact with the upright
> > portion of the angle iron.
>
> I've always used my bandsaw. =A0With whatever blade is in it. =A0Aluminiu=
m is
> *soft*. =A0Same with brass and copper.
>
> --
> Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
re: "I've always used my bandsaw"
I've got a 10" Bandsaw and need 12" pieces.
I guess if I took the case off, I'd gain the other 2". <g>
On Apr 15, 11:44=A0am, "Lee Michaels"
<leemichaels*[email protected]> wrote:
> "DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > On occasion, I need to cut aluminum stock, both 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8"
> > angle stock and 1" x 1/4" flat stock.
>
> > I have always used one of those metal-cutting wheels in my 10" Delta
> > Miter Saw, similar to this:
>
> >http://www.westerntool.com/10-inch-cut-off-wheel-metal.html
>
> > The other day, I was watching "How It's Made" and they showed the
> > process used to make Carbide Tips saw blades. They started with the
> > raw steel and followed the process through to the final product.
>
> > At the end of the segment, they showed a carbide-tipped blade in a
> > miter saw cutting through a steel rod with the voice over saying
> > something like:
>
> > "And when they're finished, they're strong enough to cut through the
> > steel that they are made from."
>
> > Somehow, I'm reluctant to start using my carbide tipped blades to cut
> > my aluminum stock. The thought of the teeth grabbing the angle iron
> > just scares the bejesus out of me. But if they can be used to cut
> > steel, aluminum should be a breeze.
>
> > Am I right to be afraid, be very afraid?
>
> > Are the cutoff wheels, even with the melting and subsequent filing/
> > grinding that I have to put up with, still the best option?
>
> > Thanks!
>
> Unless the sluminum is some special kind of hardness, it shouldn't be a
> problem. There are a lot of metal shops who use a radial arm saw for this
> sort of thing.
>
> And the cold cut saws are just a beffed up miter saw with a diamond blade=
.
>
> And if you are really paranoid, there is always a hacksaw.- Hide quoted t=
ext -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Thanks for the hack-saw tip, but paranoia isn't an issue since I've
been using the cut-off wheel in the miter saw for years, for aluminum
as well as steel.
I'm just curious as to whether I'd get a smoother cut with a carbide
tipped blade and if it would be safe to use on angle iron, especially
as to how the spinning teeth would first make conact with the upright
portion of the angle iron.
On Apr 15, 4:25=A0pm, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 4/15/2010 1:06 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Apr 15, 12:35 pm, Larry Blanchard<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
> >> On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 08:59:38 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>> I'm just curious as to whether I'd get a smoother cut with a carbide
> >>> tipped blade and if it would be safe to use on angle iron, especially=
as
> >>> to how the spinning teeth would first make conact with the upright
> >>> portion of the angle iron.
>
> >> I've always used my bandsaw. =A0With whatever blade is in it. =A0Alumi=
nium is
> >> *soft*. =A0Same with brass and copper.
>
> >> --
> >> Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
>
> > re: "I've always used my bandsaw"
>
> > I've got a 10" Bandsaw and need 12" pieces.
>
> > I guess if I took the case off, I'd gain the other 2".<g>
>
> Cut twice once rough and a little long then a second time to exact
> length to square the cut. =A0Of course you put the 12" end on the side
> _away_ from the arm.- Hide quoted text -
Carbide is what's used all the time to cut aluminum from what I've
read. I cut a fair bit of it at work and have sometimes used a piece
of wood inside the angle to back up the cut. Never had a problem.
Wear safety glasses.
JP
For sheet metal, aluminum, PVC and other softer products, I bought a
skil-saw (not the name brand) from a pawn shop (inexpensive!) and
mounted it under a home-made cabinet. With a miter slot and guage,
cutting these items are quick & easy and keeps that kind of debris
from the wood-cutting areas/tools. Small/tiny filings won't get into
any belts, gears, bushings, and/or bearings of woodworking tools,
either. 7-1/4" blades are cheaper than 10" blades.
Sonny
On 4/15/2010 10:38 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> Somehow, I'm reluctant to start using my carbide tipped blades to cut
> my aluminum stock. The thought of the teeth grabbing the angle iron
> just scares the bejesus out of me. But if they can be used to cut
> steel, aluminum should be a breeze.
The shop dummy accidentally cut through an aluminum miter gauge fence on
my Unisaw with a Forrest WWII with no ill effect to the blade (Its now
got a nice, 45 degree, "zero clearance insert" built right in).
I've cut aluminum angle stock on my Makita LS1013 on purpose with the
carbide tripped stock blade. Not something I do routinely, but enough to
know that its not been a problem.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
Remember not all carbide is steel grade.
Wood carbide might be C2. Steel might be C6 up to Cn N might be 17.
There are over 5000 grades of Carbide. [ Carbide Processors, Inc ]
The object is thin kerf. Less back pressure and more power in the
smaller tooth. PSI comes into play. Tungsten carbide is good
A Cermet is at the high line of TC and has the best wear factor.
Cermet might get you into micro fracturing. Making TC best overall.
THe TC or C-n is graded by use. C1-4 cast iron non-ferrous and non-metallic.
C-3 is finishing and C-4 precision.
Steel and steel alloys -
C5-C8.
C-7 is finishing and C8 for precision.
and so forth...
Martin
Martin
DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Apr 15, 11:44 am, "Lee Michaels"
> <leemichaels*[email protected]> wrote:
>> "DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>>
>>> On occasion, I need to cut aluminum stock, both 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8"
>>> angle stock and 1" x 1/4" flat stock.
>>> I have always used one of those metal-cutting wheels in my 10" Delta
>>> Miter Saw, similar to this:
>>> http://www.westerntool.com/10-inch-cut-off-wheel-metal.html
>>> The other day, I was watching "How It's Made" and they showed the
>>> process used to make Carbide Tips saw blades. They started with the
>>> raw steel and followed the process through to the final product.
>>> At the end of the segment, they showed a carbide-tipped blade in a
>>> miter saw cutting through a steel rod with the voice over saying
>>> something like:
>>> "And when they're finished, they're strong enough to cut through the
>>> steel that they are made from."
>>> Somehow, I'm reluctant to start using my carbide tipped blades to cut
>>> my aluminum stock. The thought of the teeth grabbing the angle iron
>>> just scares the bejesus out of me. But if they can be used to cut
>>> steel, aluminum should be a breeze.
>>> Am I right to be afraid, be very afraid?
>>> Are the cutoff wheels, even with the melting and subsequent filing/
>>> grinding that I have to put up with, still the best option?
>>> Thanks!
>> Unless the sluminum is some special kind of hardness, it shouldn't be a
>> problem. There are a lot of metal shops who use a radial arm saw for this
>> sort of thing.
>>
>> And the cold cut saws are just a beffed up miter saw with a diamond blade.
>>
>> And if you are really paranoid, there is always a hacksaw.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> Thanks for the hack-saw tip, but paranoia isn't an issue since I've
> been using the cut-off wheel in the miter saw for years, for aluminum
> as well as steel.
>
> I'm just curious as to whether I'd get a smoother cut with a carbide
> tipped blade and if it would be safe to use on angle iron, especially
> as to how the spinning teeth would first make conact with the upright
> portion of the angle iron.
In news:[email protected],
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]>spewed forth:
> On occasion, I need to cut aluminum stock, both 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8"
> angle stock and 1" x 1/4" flat stock.
>
> I have always used one of those metal-cutting wheels in my 10" Delta
> Miter Saw, similar to this:
>
> http://www.westerntool.com/10-inch-cut-off-wheel-metal.html
>
> The other day, I was watching "How It's Made" and they showed the
> process used to make Carbide Tips saw blades. They started with the
> raw steel and followed the process through to the final product.
>
> At the end of the segment, they showed a carbide-tipped blade in a
> miter saw cutting through a steel rod with the voice over saying
> something like:
>
> "And when they're finished, they're strong enough to cut through the
> steel that they are made from."
>
> Somehow, I'm reluctant to start using my carbide tipped blades to cut
> my aluminum stock. The thought of the teeth grabbing the angle iron
> just scares the bejesus out of me. But if they can be used to cut
> steel, aluminum should be a breeze.
>
> Am I right to be afraid, be very afraid?
>
> Are the cutoff wheels, even with the melting and subsequent filing/
> grinding that I have to put up with, still the best option?
>
> Thanks!
I've cut aluminum lots of times with my miter saw, 80-100 tooth blade, no
problem
Look up Tenryu, DML, Morse.
Here is one:
http://www.mkmorse.com/products/index.aspx?product=75
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"whit3rd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:d10a141f-1972-4032-9b02-d3706a3fc4ca@u37g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 15, 8:38 am, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> The other day, I was watching "How It's Made" and they showed
> the
> process used to make Carbide Tips saw blades.
>... showed a carbide-tipped blade in a
> miter saw cutting through a steel rod
> Somehow, I'm reluctant to start using my carbide tipped blades
> to cut
> my aluminum stock. The thought of the teeth grabbing the angle
> iron
> just scares the bejesus out of me.
The woodworking carbide blades are ground to different rake and
clearance
from aluminum/nonferrous metal blades. Ferrous blades are either
abrasive types, or are run at VERY slow cut rates; even if your
bandsaw has the right blade, it can burn the teeth off if you try
it at woodworking blade speed into an iron workpiece.
I've never seen a woodwork-type circular saw that was right for
cutting steel with a carbide blade. Closest is some of the
'renovation' blades that are made to proceed through nails in
lumber.
On Apr 15, 8:38=A0am, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> The other day, I was watching "How It's Made" and they showed the
> process used to make Carbide Tips saw blades.
>... showed a carbide-tipped blade in a
> miter saw cutting through a steel rod
> Somehow, I'm reluctant to start using my carbide tipped blades to cut
> my aluminum stock. The thought of the teeth grabbing the angle iron
> just scares the bejesus out of me.
The woodworking carbide blades are ground to different rake and
clearance
from aluminum/nonferrous metal blades. Ferrous blades are either
abrasive types, or are run at VERY slow cut rates; even if your
bandsaw has the right blade, it can burn the teeth off if you try
it at woodworking blade speed into an iron workpiece.
I've never seen a woodwork-type circular saw that was right for
cutting steel with a carbide blade. Closest is some of the
'renovation' blades that are made to proceed through nails in lumber.
On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:44:54 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
<leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>"DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On occasion, I need to cut aluminum stock, both 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8"
>> angle stock and 1" x 1/4" flat stock.
>>
>> I have always used one of those metal-cutting wheels in my 10" Delta
>> Miter Saw, similar to this:
>>
>> http://www.westerntool.com/10-inch-cut-off-wheel-metal.html
>>
>> The other day, I was watching "How It's Made" and they showed the
>> process used to make Carbide Tips saw blades. They started with the
>> raw steel and followed the process through to the final product.
>>
>> At the end of the segment, they showed a carbide-tipped blade in a
>> miter saw cutting through a steel rod with the voice over saying
>> something like:
>>
>> "And when they're finished, they're strong enough to cut through the
>> steel that they are made from."
>>
>> Somehow, I'm reluctant to start using my carbide tipped blades to cut
>> my aluminum stock. The thought of the teeth grabbing the angle iron
>> just scares the bejesus out of me. But if they can be used to cut
>> steel, aluminum should be a breeze.
>>
>> Am I right to be afraid, be very afraid?
>>
>> Are the cutoff wheels, even with the melting and subsequent filing/
>> grinding that I have to put up with, still the best option?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>Unless the sluminum is some special kind of hardness, it shouldn't be a
>problem. There are a lot of metal shops who use a radial arm saw for this
>sort of thing.
>
>And the cold cut saws are just a beffed up miter saw with a diamond blade.
>
>And if you are really paranoid, there is always a hacksaw.
>
>
years ago I used to install aluminum store fronts. AL frame and AL
doors w/ glass. most all shopping centers have them. we used a 15"
hitachi with a 110 tooth triple chip carbide blade for a ultra smooth
cut. Clamp to the fence to avoid movement because it will grab if you
go to fast. If you get your fingers behind the AL you gonna have a bad
day! Go at a smooth slow pace and you will be fine. ;-]
skeez
The normal carbide wood cutting saw blade does a fine, safe job
cutting non ferrous metal. I've use it for aluminum, copper, and
brass. Steel requires a different blade - I've used Tenryu, DML,
and Morse. The steel blades work better with a slightly slower
RPM, but will work on a worm drive.
The aluminum will still require a bit of filing or sanding, the
result is not a smooth cut, but much faster, cleaner, and safer
than fiber blades.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On occasion, I need to cut aluminum stock, both 1.5" x 1.5" x
> 1/8"
> angle stock and 1" x 1/4" flat stock.
>
> I have always used one of those metal-cutting wheels in my 10"
> Delta
> Miter Saw, similar to this:
>
> http://www.westerntool.com/10-inch-cut-off-wheel-metal.html
>
> The other day, I was watching "How It's Made" and they showed
> the
> process used to make Carbide Tips saw blades. They started with
> the
> raw steel and followed the process through to the final product.
>
> At the end of the segment, they showed a carbide-tipped blade in
> a
> miter saw cutting through a steel rod with the voice over saying
> something like:
>
> "And when they're finished, they're strong enough to cut through
> the
> steel that they are made from."
>
> Somehow, I'm reluctant to start using my carbide tipped blades
> to cut
> my aluminum stock. The thought of the teeth grabbing the angle
> iron
> just scares the bejesus out of me. But if they can be used to
> cut
> steel, aluminum should be a breeze.
>
> Am I right to be afraid, be very afraid?
>
> Are the cutoff wheels, even with the melting and subsequent
> filing/
> grinding that I have to put up with, still the best option?
>
> Thanks!
In article <89764b8e-fe10-4ee9-b0af-c5b9c1ff0528@z11g2000yqz.googlegroups.com>, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
[...]
>I'm just curious [...]
>if it would be safe to use on angle iron, especially
>as to how the spinning teeth would first make conact with the upright
>portion of the angle iron.
Turn it over so you cut into the corner first.
On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 08:59:38 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> I'm just curious as to whether I'd get a smoother cut with a carbide
> tipped blade and if it would be safe to use on angle iron, especially as
> to how the spinning teeth would first make conact with the upright
> portion of the angle iron.
I've always used my bandsaw. With whatever blade is in it. Aluminium is
*soft*. Same with brass and copper.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On occasion, I need to cut aluminum stock, both 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8"
> angle stock and 1" x 1/4" flat stock.
>
> I have always used one of those metal-cutting wheels in my 10" Delta
> Miter Saw, similar to this:
>
> http://www.westerntool.com/10-inch-cut-off-wheel-metal.html
>
> The other day, I was watching "How It's Made" and they showed the
> process used to make Carbide Tips saw blades. They started with the
> raw steel and followed the process through to the final product.
>
> At the end of the segment, they showed a carbide-tipped blade in a
> miter saw cutting through a steel rod with the voice over saying
> something like:
>
> "And when they're finished, they're strong enough to cut through the
> steel that they are made from."
>
> Somehow, I'm reluctant to start using my carbide tipped blades to cut
> my aluminum stock. The thought of the teeth grabbing the angle iron
> just scares the bejesus out of me. But if they can be used to cut
> steel, aluminum should be a breeze.
>
> Am I right to be afraid, be very afraid?
>
> Are the cutoff wheels, even with the melting and subsequent filing/
> grinding that I have to put up with, still the best option?
>
> Thanks!
I use my 2nd miter saw to cut Alum. all the time. Never tried it on steel
and not sure I want to. Alum. in most grades is not as hard as hardwoods.
Makes a nice clean cut with little or no filing. Ive even heard its good for
the blade, guess it helps to clean it or something.
--
You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK !
Mandriva 2010 using KDE 4.3
Website: www.rentmyhusband.biz
On 4/15/2010 1:06 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Apr 15, 12:35 pm, Larry Blanchard<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 08:59:38 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> I'm just curious as to whether I'd get a smoother cut with a carbide
>>> tipped blade and if it would be safe to use on angle iron, especially as
>>> to how the spinning teeth would first make conact with the upright
>>> portion of the angle iron.
>>
>> I've always used my bandsaw. With whatever blade is in it. Aluminium is
>> *soft*. Same with brass and copper.
>>
>> --
>> Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
>
> re: "I've always used my bandsaw"
>
> I've got a 10" Bandsaw and need 12" pieces.
>
> I guess if I took the case off, I'd gain the other 2".<g>
Cut twice once rough and a little long then a second time to exact
length to square the cut. Of course you put the 12" end on the side
_away_ from the arm.
On Fri, 16 Apr 2010 11:24:29 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Apr 15, 6:28 pm, whit3rd <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Apr 15, 8:38 am, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> > The other day, I was watching "How It's Made" and they showed the
>> > process used to make Carbide Tips saw blades.
>> >... showed a carbide-tipped blade in a
>> > miter saw cutting through a steel rod
>> > Somehow, I'm reluctant to start using my carbide tipped blades to cut
>> > my aluminum stock. The thought of the teeth grabbing the angle iron
>> > just scares the bejesus out of me.
>>
>> The woodworking carbide blades are ground to different rake and
>> clearance
>> from aluminum/nonferrous metal blades. Ferrous blades are either
>> abrasive types, or are run at VERY slow cut rates; even if your
>> bandsaw has the right blade, it can burn the teeth off if you try
>> it at woodworking blade speed into an iron workpiece.
>>
>> I've never seen a woodwork-type circular saw that was right for
>> cutting steel with a carbide blade. Closest is some of the
>> 'renovation' blades that are made to proceed through nails in lumber.
>
>I'd like to share what the guy at the local "Saw and Knife" store just
>told me and ask for your opinion.
>
>For 1.5 " x 1.5" x 1/8" Alumninum angle stock and 1" x 1/4" Alumninum
>flat stock, he said:
>
>Based on the thickness of the material, 60 TPI is probably the highest
>you want to go. Above that you run the risk of melting the stock and
>have it weld back together behind the cut. 80 TPI and above is for
>very thin material.
>
>Best tooth design is Negative Hook Angle, Triple Chip Grind. Alternate
>Top Bevel, especially with a Positive hook will dull very, very
>quickly.
>
>Cut the Angle stock legs down.
>
>Cut the 1" x 1/4" flat stock "standing up" - clamp it so the the 1"
>surface is against the fence.
>
>According to that info, the $59 Diablo non-ferrous 84 TPI blade that
>HD carries doesn't sound like what I want to use. The Saw and Knife
>place has a $79 blade in stock that fits the specs he laid out.
>
>Your thoughts?
...I use a 60 tooth Tenryu on a 10" Makita chop saw that goes with me
to jobs...I cut aluminum regularly (thresholds, shower door kits,
etc). It took awhile to "get over" the concept, but now I don't
hesitate at all. Steel, though...nah, too many broken carbide tips for
me...you'll be fine with a good quality blade...keep the feed rate
down...
cg