The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
job.
I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can't
find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll just
grab some printer paper.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Nov 5, 12:35=A0pm, "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Robatoy wrote:
> > On Nov 5, 7:31 am, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in
> >> news:3a7f2f1f-2977-4bc6-a46d-
> >> [email protected]:
>
> >>> Do not use TP to blow your nose for any
> >>> extended period of time during a cold, you'll end up looking like WC
> >>> Fields.
>
> >> Your Dutch heritage shows. I remember Dutch TP as about 80 grit.
> >> Ouch ...
>
> >> --
> >> Best regards
> >> Han
> >> email address is invalid
>
> > LOL!!...that brown stuff was brutal! (But did the job.)
>
> Ummmmmm... you're not supposed to use the TP with the brown stuff on it..=
.
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
I never could figure out outhouses with two holes... what...take a
dump with a buddy? Wha?
I did hear of a Newfoundlander who stuck a leg down each hole and
crapped his pants...but...
On Nov 4, 10:42=A0am, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Nov 3, 10:25=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On 11/3/10 8:54 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > > On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 17:33:05 -0500, -MIKE-<[email protected]>
> > > wrote:
>
> > >> On 11/3/10 4:54 PM, Swingman wrote:
> > >>> On 11/3/2010 1:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> > >>>> The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper groce=
ry
> > >>>> bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised gr=
ain
> > >>>> after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty=
good
> > >>>> job.
>
> > >>> It's been discussed here a number of times in the past. AAMOF, noth=
ing
> > >>> work like a brown paper bag on the final coat of shellac a week aft=
er it
> > >>> cures.
>
> > >> I've never used shellac.
> > >> What about it makes the paper so good?
> > >> What's it doing to the shellac?
> > > =A0 The friction heats the shellac just enough to burnish it, and it =
is
> > > just rough enough to both cause the friction and then burnish it supe=
r
> > > smooth.
>
> > Serious? =A0 =A0Tell me you're not just making that up (like some guys =
in
> > here). =A0:-)
> > Makes sense to me.
>
> > --
>
> > =A0 -MIKE-
>
> > =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> > =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> > =A0 --
> > =A0http://mikedrums.com
> > =A0 [email protected]
> > =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>
> Oak rust, suspended in animal fat and rubbed in with Festool
> Brownbagpaper=99 is the ticket for me.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I thought that was the cutting board recipe. Does that work for
everything Robatoy? I think I'll try it on my next set o' cabinets...
RP
On Nov 6, 8:58=A0am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 11/3/2010 1:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>
> Ain't it amazing, the depths of scatological depravity to which a
> simple, innocently initiated thread can sink on the wREC?
>
> ;)
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 4/15/2010
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
THAT, in a word, is why I love this place. A little nudge....and
ZINGGGG off the rails it goes.
.
.
.
HOW many fingers does one use to punch down a loaf of freshly raised
bread dough?
See?
In news:[email protected],
-MIKE- <[email protected]> spewed forth:
> The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
> bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
> after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty
> good job.
>
> I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
> custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can't
> find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll
> just grab some printer paper.
Yup, an old finisher buddy taught me that trick and it works great.
Brown lunch bag or newspaper works well too
On Nov 5, 12:32=A0am, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> > On Nov 3, 2:11 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
>
> >> I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
> >> custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can't
> >> find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll jus=
t
> >> grab some printer paper.
>
> I used it again today, to knock the dust off of the spray satin topcoat
> I put over the dye.
> Was faster than a synthetic buffing pad I normally use.
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
One of my guys used to, and I emphasize 'used to' clean his glasses
with paper shop towels. Scratched the shite out of the coating on his
polycarbonate lenses. Paper is fibre. Fibres have 'ends' on
them...those are scratchy. Do not use TP to blow your nose for any
extended period of time during a cold, you'll end up looking like WC
Fields.
Robatoy wrote:
>
> I never could figure out outhouses with two holes... what...take a
> dump with a buddy? Wha?
>
I always thought they were a his-n-hers concept. But then I met my wife...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Nov 5, 6:54=A0am, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Nov 5, 12:32=A0am, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > > On Nov 3, 2:11 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
>
> > >> I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
> > >> custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can=
't
> > >> find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll j=
ust
> > >> grab some printer paper.
>
> > I used it again today, to knock the dust off of the spray satin topcoat
> > I put over the dye.
> > Was faster than a synthetic buffing pad I normally use.
>
> > --
>
> > =A0 -MIKE-
>
> > =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> > =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> > =A0 --
> > =A0http://mikedrums.com
> > =A0 [email protected]
> > =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>
> One of my guys used to, and I emphasize 'used to' clean his glasses
> with paper shop towels. Scratched the shite out of the coating on his
> polycarbonate lenses. Paper is fibre. Fibres have 'ends' on
> them...those are scratchy. Do not use TP to blow your nose for any
> extended period of time during a cold, you'll end up looking like WC
> Fields.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Pulp paper is made from wood, rag paper is made from
cloth. Pulp paper is going to scratch a LOT more than
100% rag, as my test on shellac with a sheet of printer
paper bore out last night. Use it for smoothing anything
short of the final glaze coat on French polish.
Han wrote:
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>>> LOL!!...that brown stuff was brutal! (But did the job.)
>>
>> Ummmmmm... you're not supposed to use the TP with the brown stuff on
>> it...
>
> Dutch TP used to have a greyish-brown color, like faded brown bag
> paper. Color like that. Texture indeed close to 60-grit sandpaper.
Yeah - I took that from the original discourse - I was trying to be funny...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> I never could figure out outhouses with two holes... what...take a
> dump with a buddy? Wha?
>
For you city folks, who don't have much experience in outhouse design and
implementation, it may seem a mystery.
But as a country boy, who had to dig and build outhouses from time to time,
there is a practical consideration. It has to do with volume. If enough
people use one hole, you will fill up the ground hole and make the whole
outhouse experience extremely uncomfortable. By going to two holes, you get
a more even distribution of, cough, cough, well, you know.
Back in the day, they just used to drag the outhouse to a new hole/location
when one started to fill up. But when folks (and livestock) started to fall
in to the old holes, somebody came up with the two hole design. By the way,
I have seen three and four hole designs.
And for the real classy outhouses in snow country, they have styrofoam
seats. Much warmer on the behind when using the facility sitting down in
sub zero weather.
"Lee Michaels" wrote:
<snip>
> Back in the day, they just used to drag the outhouse to a new
> hole/location when one started to fill up. But when folks (and
> livestock) started to fall in to the old holes, somebody came up
> with the two hole design. By the way, I have seen three and four
> hole designs.
-------------------------------------
Now that 10/31 has pasted, guess it is safe to post an old country boy
Halloween trick.
A pick up truck and a 300 ft length of 3/4", 3 strand rope are
required.
Back truck up to within 50-60 ft of chosen privy.
With one end of rope secured to rear bumper of truck, pick up other
end and circle target privy staying at least 50 ft away just in case
owner had moved privy a few feet to expose pit.
When back to truck, hook rope over bumper and drive away.
On a good night, bagging 30 privys is not unreasonable or so I was
told.
Lew
On Nov 5, 10:47=A0am, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Han" wrote:
> > Your Dutch heritage shows. =A0I remember Dutch TP as about 80 grit.
> > Ouch ...
>
> ----------------------------------------
> Next thing will be the red corn cob, white corn cob, red corn cob
> story.
>
> Lew
I don't know that story, but my imagination is begging you not to tell
it.
Robatoy wrote:
> One of my guys used to, and I emphasize 'used to' clean his glasses
> with paper shop towels. Scratched the shite out of the coating on his
> polycarbonate lenses. Paper is fibre. Fibres have 'ends' on
> them...those are scratchy. Do not use TP to blow your nose for any
> extended period of time during a cold, you'll end up looking like WC
> Fields.
Preach it brother. Don't people know that's what shirt sleeves are for?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Nov 3, 2:11=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
> custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can't
> find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll just
> grab some printer paper.
Should work even better if you rubbed a bit of jeweler's rouge
into the paper.
On Fri, 5 Nov 2010 17:09:13 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
<leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net> wrote:
>
>
>"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> I never could figure out outhouses with two holes... what...take a
>> dump with a buddy? Wha?
>>
>For you city folks, who don't have much experience in outhouse design and
>implementation, it may seem a mystery.
>
>But as a country boy, who had to dig and build outhouses from time to time,
>there is a practical consideration. It has to do with volume. If enough
>people use one hole, you will fill up the ground hole and make the whole
>outhouse experience extremely uncomfortable. By going to two holes, you get
>a more even distribution of, cough, cough, well, you know.
>
>Back in the day, they just used to drag the outhouse to a new hole/location
>when one started to fill up. But when folks (and livestock) started to fall
>in to the old holes, somebody came up with the two hole design. By the way,
>I have seen three and four hole designs.
>
>And for the real classy outhouses in snow country, they have styrofoam
>seats. Much warmer on the behind when using the facility sitting down in
>sub zero weather.
>
>
Never notice the difference in size in a "classic" two-holer????
One hole was for the broader of beam adults, while the smaller one was
for the smaller tykes, so Mom didn't have to fish them out when they
slipped.
On Wed, 3 Nov 2010 16:17:27 -0600, "WW" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
>> bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
>> after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
>> job.
>>
>> I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
>> custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can't
>> find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll just
>> grab some printer paper.
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> -MIKE-
>>
>> "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
>> --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
>> --
>> http://mikedrums.com
>> [email protected]
>> ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>
>Amazing what I can learn from this site. What a great group. WW
>>
>
Newspaper makes a perfect "polishing cloth" for cleaning window glass.
Doesn't really mater if it has print on it or not.(but some seem to
think the ink actually helps - I've not noticed one way or the other)
On Wed, 3 Nov 2010 19:44:53 -0700, "CW" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I learned the newspaper window cleaning trick years ago > .
>
>So did I, Basic training.
But did you learn that a chamois skin works even better for the final
wipes?
--
Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills.
-- Minna Thomas Antrim
On Nov 6, 8:58=A0am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 11/3/2010 1:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>
> Ain't it amazing, the depths of scatological depravity to which a
> simple, innocently initiated thread can sink on the wREC?
>
> ;)
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 4/15/2010
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
UseNet's weakness is its strength.
On Nov 3, 11:11=A0am, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
> bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
> after staining.
Is this a variant of the turner's trick of grabbing a handful of swarf
to burnish the finished workpiece? I thought that was mainly
heat and the resins and sap doing a quick polish. I'm partial to the
waxy-string method, myself.
On Nov 3, 12:11=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
> bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
> after staining. =A0Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty goo=
d
> job.
>
They're also good for removing light surface rust without damaging a
finish such as bluing, I've been told for forever not to cut
cardboard because it is abrasive and will dull a knife. I've been
ignoring this for forever and just sharpening the (various) knives
when they get dull (from whatever reason).
And speaking of rust, the first thing I try on light rust is a coarse
terrycloth rag with some light oil (auto trans fluid works well).
This will usually remove rust with a good scrubbing, but won't harm
bluing or other finish.
On 11/3/2010 1:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
> bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
> after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
> job.
It's been discussed here a number of times in the past. AAMOF, nothing
work like a brown paper bag on the final coat of shellac a week after it
cures.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 3 Nov 2010 19:44:53 -0700, "CW" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> I learned the newspaper window cleaning trick years ago > .
>>
>>So did I, Basic training.
>
> But did you learn that a chamois skin works even better for the final
> wipes?
>
Not a lot of chamois laying around the barracks.
In article <[email protected]>, "Lee
Michaels" says...
>
> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote
> >
> > I never could figure out outhouses with two holes... what...take a
> > dump with a buddy? Wha?
> >
> For you city folks, who don't have much experience in outhouse design and
> implementation, it may seem a mystery.
>
> But as a country boy, who had to dig and build outhouses from time to time,
> there is a practical consideration. It has to do with volume. If enough
> people use one hole, you will fill up the ground hole and make the whole
> outhouse experience extremely uncomfortable. By going to two holes, you get
> a more even distribution of, cough, cough, well, you know.
>
> Back in the day, they just used to drag the outhouse to a new hole/location
> when one started to fill up. But when folks (and livestock) started to fall
> in to the old holes, somebody came up with the two hole design. By the way,
> I have seen three and four hole designs.
>
> And for the real classy outhouses in snow country, they have styrofoam
> seats. Much warmer on the behind when using the facility sitting down in
> sub zero weather.
According to Nevada Barr, the Park Service just keeps the seat next to
the heater, and whoever needs to use it takes it out and brings it back.
>
>
Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in news:3a7f2f1f-2977-4bc6-a46d-
[email protected]:
> Do not use TP to blow your nose for any
> extended period of time during a cold, you'll end up looking like WC
> Fields.
>
Your Dutch heritage shows. I remember Dutch TP as about 80 grit. Ouch ...
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>> LOL!!...that brown stuff was brutal! (But did the job.)
>
> Ummmmmm... you're not supposed to use the TP with the brown stuff on
> it...
Dutch TP used to have a greyish-brown color, like faded brown bag paper.
Color like that. Texture indeed close to 60-grit sandpaper.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I learned the newspaper window cleaning trick years ago > .
So did I, Basic training.
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
> bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
> after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
> job.
>
> I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
> custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can't
> find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll just
> grab some printer paper.
>
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
> "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
> --
> http://mikedrums.com
> [email protected]
> ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Amazing what I can learn from this site. What a great group. WW
>
On Nov 5, 7:31=A0am, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
> Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in news:3a7f2f1f-2977-4bc6-a46d-
> [email protected]:
>
> > Do not use TP to blow your nose for any
> > extended period of time during a cold, you'll end up looking like WC
> > Fields.
>
> Your Dutch heritage shows. =A0I remember Dutch TP as about 80 grit. =A0Ou=
ch ...
>
> --
> Best regards
> Han
> email address is invalid
LOL!!...that brown stuff was brutal! (But did the job.)
Robatoy wrote:
> On Nov 5, 7:31 am, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:3a7f2f1f-2977-4bc6-a46d-
>> [email protected]:
>>
>>> Do not use TP to blow your nose for any
>>> extended period of time during a cold, you'll end up looking like WC
>>> Fields.
>>
>> Your Dutch heritage shows. I remember Dutch TP as about 80 grit.
>> Ouch ...
>>
>> --
>> Best regards
>> Han
>> email address is invalid
>
> LOL!!...that brown stuff was brutal! (But did the job.)
Ummmmmm... you're not supposed to use the TP with the brown stuff on it...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Nov 3, 10:25=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 11/3/10 8:54 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 17:33:05 -0500, -MIKE-<[email protected]>
> > wrote:
>
> >> On 11/3/10 4:54 PM, Swingman wrote:
> >>> On 11/3/2010 1:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> >>>> The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
> >>>> bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grai=
n
> >>>> after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty g=
ood
> >>>> job.
>
> >>> It's been discussed here a number of times in the past. AAMOF, nothin=
g
> >>> work like a brown paper bag on the final coat of shellac a week after=
it
> >>> cures.
>
> >> I've never used shellac.
> >> What about it makes the paper so good?
> >> What's it doing to the shellac?
> > =A0 The friction heats the shellac just enough to burnish it, and it is
> > just rough enough to both cause the friction and then burnish it super
> > smooth.
>
> Serious? =A0 =A0Tell me you're not just making that up (like some guys in
> here). =A0:-)
> Makes sense to me.
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Oak rust, suspended in animal fat and rubbed in with Festool
Brownbagpaper=99 is the ticket for me.
On Nov 3, 12:11=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
> bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
> after staining. =A0Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty goo=
d
> job.
>
> I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
> custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can't
> find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll just
> grab some printer paper.
Yup.
I've been using the brown paper bag idea for quite a while.
Only slightly off topic: newspaper is probably the best thing to use
to clean glass (eg, your windshield). Seems the ink acts like a fine
pumice.
On Thu, 4 Nov 2010 10:25:52 -0700, "CW" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Wed, 3 Nov 2010 19:44:53 -0700, "CW" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>> I learned the newspaper window cleaning trick years ago > .
>>>
>>>So did I, Basic training.
>>
>> But did you learn that a chamois skin works even better for the final
>> wipes?
>
>Not a lot of chamois laying around the barracks.
So hit the BX/PX, boy. Doubletime!
--
Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills.
-- Minna Thomas Antrim
On 11/3/10 4:54 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 11/3/2010 1:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
>> bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
>> after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
>> job.
>
> It's been discussed here a number of times in the past. AAMOF, nothing
> work like a brown paper bag on the final coat of shellac a week after it
> cures.
>
I've never used shellac.
What about it makes the paper so good?
What's it doing to the shellac?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/3/10 8:54 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 17:33:05 -0500, -MIKE-<[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> On 11/3/10 4:54 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>> On 11/3/2010 1:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
>>>> bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
>>>> after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
>>>> job.
>>>
>>> It's been discussed here a number of times in the past. AAMOF, nothing
>>> work like a brown paper bag on the final coat of shellac a week after it
>>> cures.
>>>
>>
>> I've never used shellac.
>> What about it makes the paper so good?
>> What's it doing to the shellac?
> The friction heats the shellac just enough to burnish it, and it is
> just rough enough to both cause the friction and then burnish it super
> smooth.
Serious? Tell me you're not just making that up (like some guys in
here). :-)
Makes sense to me.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/3/10 8:55 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Wed, 3 Nov 2010 16:17:27 -0600, "WW"<[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>
>> "-MIKE-"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
>>> bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
>>> after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
>>> job.
>>>
>>> I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
>>> custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can't
>>> find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll just
>>> grab some printer paper.
>>>
>>
>> Amazing what I can learn from this site. What a great group. WW
>>>
>>
> Newspaper makes a perfect "polishing cloth" for cleaning window glass.
> Doesn't really mater if it has print on it or not.(but some seem to
> think the ink actually helps - I've not noticed one way or the other)
I learned the newspaper window cleaning trick years ago and I will
always use it to clean glass. Just water with a drop of dish soap and
newspaper is sooooo much faster than any other method.
No streaks.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Likewise, a nice clean, new crisp dollar bill makes a fair electrical
contact cleaner in a pinch. I would imagine larger denominations work
equally well but I've never had one long enough to try.
--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
On 11/4/10 7:13 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Wed, 3 Nov 2010 19:44:53 -0700, "CW"<[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>
>> "-MIKE-"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> I learned the newspaper window cleaning trick years ago> .
>>
>> So did I, Basic training.
>
> But did you learn that a chamois skin works even better for the final
> wipes?
>
I learned that there was usually some free and available newspaper any
and everywhere, within reach of windows. Chamois, not so much. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/4/10 10:42 AM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Nov 3, 10:25 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 11/3/10 8:54 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 17:33:05 -0500, -MIKE-<[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>
>>>> On 11/3/10 4:54 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>>>> On 11/3/2010 1:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>> The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
>>>>>> bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
>>>>>> after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
>>>>>> job.
>>
>>>>> It's been discussed here a number of times in the past. AAMOF, nothing
>>>>> work like a brown paper bag on the final coat of shellac a week after it
>>>>> cures.
>>
>>>> I've never used shellac.
>>>> What about it makes the paper so good?
>>>> What's it doing to the shellac?
>>> The friction heats the shellac just enough to burnish it, and it is
>>> just rough enough to both cause the friction and then burnish it super
>>> smooth.
>>
>> Serious? Tell me you're not just making that up (like some guys in
>> here). :-)
>> Makes sense to me.
>>
>
> Oak rust, suspended in animal fat and rubbed in with Festool
> Brownbagpaper is the ticket for me.
I'm still laughing... it's not getting old. :-)
Brownbagpaper sold in packs of one for $24.99.... on sale at Woodcraft,
4 for $100.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
> On Nov 3, 2:11 pm, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
>> custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can't
>> find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll just
>> grab some printer paper.
>
I used it again today, to knock the dust off of the spray satin topcoat
I put over the dye.
Was faster than a synthetic buffing pad I normally use.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/05/10 11:53 AM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Nov 5, 10:47 am, "Lew Hodgett"<[email protected]> wrote:
>> "Han" wrote:
>>> Your Dutch heritage shows. I remember Dutch TP as about 80 grit.
>>> Ouch ...
>>
>> ----------------------------------------
>> Next thing will be the red corn cob, white corn cob, red corn cob
>> story.
>>
>> Lew
>
> I don't know that story, but my imagination is begging you not to tell
> it.
It is an old bathroom joke consisting of two red corn cobs and one white
- in a box with a cellophane cover and a notice that said "In case of
emergency, break glass." It went on to give instructions something like
"Use red cob first. Then use white cob to see if second red cob needed."
--
Froz...
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
"Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in news:3a7f2f1f-2977-4bc6-a46d-
> [email protected]:
>
>> Do not use TP to blow your nose for any
>> extended period of time during a cold, you'll end up looking like WC
>> Fields.
>>
>
> Your Dutch heritage shows. I remember Dutch TP as about 80 grit. Ouch
> ...
The UK variety used to be incredibly slick. Not really what one looks for in
a TP ...
--
If your name is No, I voted for you - more than once ...
"Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>>> LOL!!...that brown stuff was brutal! (But did the job.)
>>
>> Ummmmmm... you're not supposed to use the TP with the brown stuff on
>> it...
>
> Dutch TP used to have a greyish-brown color, like faded brown bag paper.
> Color like that. Texture indeed close to 60-grit sandpaper.
Previous post it was 80. Do I hear 40?!
--
If your name is No, I voted for you - more than once ...
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 05 Nov 2010 17:28:59 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>news:[email protected]:
>>
>>>> LOL!!...that brown stuff was brutal! (But did the job.)
>>>
>>> Ummmmmm... you're not supposed to use the TP with the brown stuff on
>>> it...
>>
>>Dutch TP used to have a greyish-brown color, like faded brown bag paper.
>>Color like that. Texture indeed close to 60-grit sandpaper.
> The pink crap you get in large parts of Africa is no better (I think
> it's actually french).
>
> The brown/yellow stuff is "scottish" TP, isn't it??? (hung out to dry
> and re-used)
Back in the tenements with the lav on the landing it was mostly the
newspaper minus the racing form and pools.
--
If your name is No, I voted for you - more than once ...
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:199d4134-cb3c-49f6-8405-b9f3659f6a21@w38g2000pri.googlegroups.com...
On Nov 5, 12:35 pm, "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Robatoy wrote:
> > On Nov 5, 7:31 am, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in
> >> news:3a7f2f1f-2977-4bc6-a46d-
> >> [email protected]:
>
> >>> Do not use TP to blow your nose for any
> >>> extended period of time during a cold, you'll end up looking like WC
> >>> Fields.
>
> >> Your Dutch heritage shows. I remember Dutch TP as about 80 grit.
> >> Ouch ...
>
> >> --
> >> Best regards
> >> Han
> >> email address is invalid
>
> > LOL!!...that brown stuff was brutal! (But did the job.)
>
> Ummmmmm... you're not supposed to use the TP with the brown stuff on it...
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
I never could figure out outhouses with two holes... what...take a
dump with a buddy? Wha?
I did hear of a Newfoundlander who stuck a leg down each hole and
crapped his pants...but...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
LOL!!
--
If your name is No, I voted for you - more than once ...
On 11/6/10 7:58 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 11/3/2010 1:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>
> Ain't it amazing, the depths of scatological depravity to which a
> simple, innocently initiated thread can sink on the wREC?
>
> ;)
>
I didn't take me long to realize you get about 24hrs for any useful
information, then you can literally stop reading. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
That is why we are all here.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Ain't it amazing, the depths of scatological depravity to which a
simple, innocently initiated thread can sink on the wREC?
;)
On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 21:54:03 -0400, [email protected] wrote:
>On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 17:33:05 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>On 11/3/10 4:54 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>> On 11/3/2010 1:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
>>>> bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
>>>> after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
>>>> job.
>>>
>>> It's been discussed here a number of times in the past. AAMOF, nothing
>>> work like a brown paper bag on the final coat of shellac a week after it
>>> cures.
>>>
>>
>>I've never used shellac.
It really is worth giving a try. I use it all the time on items like
picture frames or furniture that does not get high wear. It is
inexpensive, easy to pad or brush (with the right technique) and dries
fast.
>>What about it makes the paper so good?
>>What's it doing to the shellac?
> The friction heats the shellac just enough to burnish it, and it is
>just rough enough to both cause the friction and then burnish it super
>smooth.
Or to put it another way, the friction warms the shellac and softens
it on the surface. And then the burnishing effect of the paper smooths
the shellac.
That won't work the same on a varnish that cures with oxygen.
On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 17:33:05 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 11/3/10 4:54 PM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 11/3/2010 1:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
>>> bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
>>> after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
>>> job.
>>
>> It's been discussed here a number of times in the past. AAMOF, nothing
>> work like a brown paper bag on the final coat of shellac a week after it
>> cures.
>>
>
>I've never used shellac.
>What about it makes the paper so good?
>What's it doing to the shellac?
The friction heats the shellac just enough to burnish it, and it is
just rough enough to both cause the friction and then burnish it super
smooth.
Han wrote:
> Robatoy<[email protected]> wrote in news:3a7f2f1f-2977-4bc6-a46d-
> [email protected]:
>
>> Do not use TP to blow your nose for any
>> extended period of time during a cold, you'll end up looking like WC
>> Fields.
>>
>
> Your Dutch heritage shows. I remember Dutch TP as about 80 grit. Ouch ...
>
Sicilian TP used to be described as "Non-skid" by us visitors.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
A cliche is a bright new original
thought with tenure.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 3 Nov 2010 16:17:27 -0600, "WW" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>>
> Newspaper makes a perfect "polishing cloth" for cleaning window glass.
> Doesn't really mater if it has print on it or not.(but some seem to
> think the ink actually helps - I've not noticed one way or the other)
I have found a better way to clean windows, have tried the news paper with
ok results. Use a window cleaner and wipe off with a microfiber towel. The
micro fiber towel will not swish the dirt around but will capture and
retain the dirt. Additionally car wax will help prevent the window from
getting dirty again as quickly and will remove those tough spots.
On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 21:25:13 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 11/3/10 8:54 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 17:33:05 -0500, -MIKE-<[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 11/3/10 4:54 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>>> On 11/3/2010 1:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>> The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
>>>>> bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
>>>>> after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
>>>>> job.
>>>>
>>>> It's been discussed here a number of times in the past. AAMOF, nothing
>>>> work like a brown paper bag on the final coat of shellac a week after it
>>>> cures.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I've never used shellac.
>>> What about it makes the paper so good?
>>> What's it doing to the shellac?
>> The friction heats the shellac just enough to burnish it, and it is
>> just rough enough to both cause the friction and then burnish it super
>> smooth.
>
>Serious? Tell me you're not just making that up (like some guys in
>here). :-)
>Makes sense to me.
See the "frugal wood-turner" at
http://books.google.ca/books?id=Dsgb2gZSl3EC&pg=PA122&lpg=PA122&dq=burnish+shellac&source=bl&ots=07LgQnkGBl&sig=jE43yM9Xt5Q8VCSdarkNgFDkVIo&hl=en&ei=ky3STIXxOdPangfF1dwJ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=8&ved=0CCQQ6AEwBzge#v=onepage&q=burnish%20shellac&f=false
for a supporting reference. I know, the URL is longer than the
reference!!!!!
On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 21:25:13 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 11/3/10 8:54 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 17:33:05 -0500, -MIKE-<[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 11/3/10 4:54 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>>> On 11/3/2010 1:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>> The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
>>>>> bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
>>>>> after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
>>>>> job.
>>>>
>>>> It's been discussed here a number of times in the past. AAMOF, nothing
>>>> work like a brown paper bag on the final coat of shellac a week after it
>>>> cures.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I've never used shellac.
>>> What about it makes the paper so good?
>>> What's it doing to the shellac?
>> The friction heats the shellac just enough to burnish it, and it is
>> just rough enough to both cause the friction and then burnish it super
>> smooth.
>
>Serious? Tell me you're not just making that up (like some guys in
>here). :-)
>Makes sense to me.
Serious.
On 05 Nov 2010 17:28:59 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>>> LOL!!...that brown stuff was brutal! (But did the job.)
>>
>> Ummmmmm... you're not supposed to use the TP with the brown stuff on
>> it...
>
>Dutch TP used to have a greyish-brown color, like faded brown bag paper.
>Color like that. Texture indeed close to 60-grit sandpaper.
The pink crap you get in large parts of Africa is no better (I think
it's actually french).
The brown/yellow stuff is "scottish" TP, isn't it??? (hung out to dry
and re-used)