I have my shop in a not-big-enough shed.
Several of my machines are on hard rubber dolly wheels.
I'm thinking of building a 8' x 10'platform/deck outside the front
door. I want it so that I'd have a place to roll out a couple of
machines when I needed more elbow room, or to roll the table saw onto
when I have to cut sheet goods.
I think I can do it with 2 x 6 joists held off the ground by masonry
blocks. If I put a typical surface on, I'll run into the hassle of
rolling the machines over grooves.
If I did use 2 x 6 decking I'm thinking that I'd like to rip flat
edges on them so that they would butt to create a flat floor. Would
eliminating the spacing lead to weathering problems? I actually don't
like this idea but I can't think of any other way to get a flat
floor. (I once used Northern Yellow Cedar for decking, but
I also don't know how such decking surface would hold up to being
assaulted by the wheels.
Can anyone recommend an alternate type flooring that will stand up to
outdoor NJ exposure.
I probably won't build it until next spring.
On Sep 28, 8:06=A0am, willshak <[email protected]> wrote:
> KIMOSABE wrote the following:
>
>
>
> > I have my shop in a not-big-enough shed.
>
> > Several of my machines are on hard rubber dolly wheels.
>
> > I'm thinking of building a 8' x 10'platform/deck outside the front
> > door. =A0I want it so that I'd have a place to roll out a couple of
> > machines when I needed more elbow room, or to roll the table saw onto
> > when I have to cut sheet goods.
> > I think I can do it with 2 x 6 joists held off the ground by masonry
> > blocks. =A0If I put a typical surface on, I'll run into the hassle of
> > rolling the machines over grooves.
>
> > If I did use 2 x 6 decking I'm thinking that I'd like to rip flat
> > edges on them so that they would butt to create a flat floor. =A0Would
> > eliminating the spacing lead to weathering problems? =A0I actually don'=
t
> > like this idea but I can't think of any other way to get a flat
> > floor. =A0(I once used Northern Yellow Cedar for decking, but
>
> > I also don't know how such decking surface would hold up to being
> > assaulted by the wheels.
> > Can anyone recommend an alternate type flooring that will stand up to
> > outdoor NJ exposure.
> > I probably won't build it until next spring.
>
> I vote concrete like some of the other responders.
> Just think about rolling the machines out there after a rain. Do you
> want to be using dangerous tools with a wet wood/tile deck?
What's the difference between tile and concrete? If you're worried
about electricity and water mixing, tile should be better. If it's
slipping that's the problem, the tile can be selected for its slip
resistance. A litttle slope should clear it of water pretty quickly.
On Sep 27, 9:52=A0pm, KIMOSABE <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have my shop in a not-big-enough shed.
>
> Several of my machines are on hard rubber dolly wheels.
>
> I'm thinking of building a 8' x 10'platform/deck outside the front
> door. =A0I want it so that I'd have a place to roll out a couple of
> machines when I needed more elbow room, or to roll the table saw onto
> when I have to cut sheet goods.
> I think I can do it with 2 x 6 joists held off the ground by masonry
> blocks. =A0If I put a typical surface on, I'll run into the hassle of
> rolling the machines over grooves.
>
> If I did use 2 x 6 decking I'm thinking that I'd like to rip flat
> edges on them so that they would butt to create a flat floor. =A0Would
> eliminating the spacing lead to weathering problems? =A0I actually don't
> like this idea but I can't think of any other way to get a flat
> floor. =A0(I once used Northern Yellow Cedar for decking, but
>
> I also don't know how such decking surface would hold up to being
> assaulted by the wheels.
> Can anyone recommend an alternate type flooring that will stand up to
> outdoor NJ exposure.
> I probably won't build it until next spring.
How about exterior (non-porous) tile for the surface? The underlying
structure would have to be pretty stiff to take the machinery but
should be do-able. Grout lines may be an issue but this could be
minimized with an 18x18.
On Sep 27, 11:19=A0pm, Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
> How high is your shed's floor off the ground?
>
> Sonny
The shed sits on masonry blocks which are in turn sitting on an 8" bed
of crushed stone. This was required by the bldg. code.
The actual floor of the shed is 9 inches above ground level. The land
here is VERY sandy soil (NJ shore area). The land rises a few inches
as it gets farther from the front.
"KIMOSABE" wrote:
> I'm thinking of building a 8' x 10'platform/deck outside the front
> door.
------------------------------------
Advance to "GO" and collect $200, then go straight to a concrete slab.
BTDT, forget the T-Shirt.
Wood will rot.
A concrete slab can be used for winter storage when you include a
tarp.
BTDT
Lew
KIMOSABE wrote:
> I have my shop in a not-big-enough shed.
>
> Several of my machines are on hard rubber dolly wheels.
>
> I'm thinking of building a 8' x 10'platform/deck outside the front
> door. I want it so that I'd have a place to roll out a couple of
> machines when I needed more elbow room, or to roll the table saw onto
> when I have to cut sheet goods.
> I think I can do it with 2 x 6 joists held off the ground by masonry
> blocks. If I put a typical surface on, I'll run into the hassle of
> rolling the machines over grooves.
>
> If I did use 2 x 6 decking I'm thinking that I'd like to rip flat
> edges on them so that they would butt to create a flat floor. Would
> eliminating the spacing lead to weathering problems? I actually don't
> like this idea but I can't think of any other way to get a flat
> floor. (I once used Northern Yellow Cedar for decking, but
>
> I also don't know how such decking surface would hold up to being
> assaulted by the wheels.
> Can anyone recommend an alternate type flooring that will stand up to
> outdoor NJ exposure.
> I probably won't build it until next spring.
As others have stated I'd opt for the concrete deck. I'd also compare
the cost of the the deck to the cost of expanding the shed.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
> > How high is your shed's floor off the ground?
>
> > Sonny
>
> The shed sits on masonry blocks which are in turn sitting on an 8" bed
> of crushed stone. =A0This was required by the bldg. code.
>
> The actual floor of the shed is 9 inches above ground level. =A0
My initial thinking was concrete slab, so I had asked to get some idea
of how much fill may be required, for a slab to be even with your shed
floor. Shouldn't be very difficult or expensive to lay another
foundation and, I suppose, you would have to do so, anyway, whether
you elected to pour a slab or frame a deck, since your state seems to
require it, no matter what.
Whichever you elect, might as well build/pour as big of one as you can
afford, manage, have space for, etc., so you won't have to address the
issue later, i.e., go through any code issue again, if that's a
hassle.
Another consideration (for the future, maybe?): What might be the
propect of using a newly poured slab to become the floor of a new
shed, later. Would this relocation, of a later shop (I like shop,
better), be coordinated with your surroundings/lawn?
Sonny
KIMOSABE wrote:
> I have my shop in a not-big-enough shed.
>
> Several of my machines are on hard rubber dolly wheels.
>
> I'm thinking of building a 8' x 10'platform/deck outside the front
> door. I want it so that I'd have a place to roll out a couple of
> machines when I needed more elbow room, or to roll the table saw onto
> when I have to cut sheet goods.
> I think I can do it with 2 x 6 joists held off the ground by masonry
> blocks. If I put a typical surface on, I'll run into the hassle of
> rolling the machines over grooves.
>
> If I did use 2 x 6 decking I'm thinking that I'd like to rip flat
> edges on them so that they would butt to create a flat floor. Would
> eliminating the spacing lead to weathering problems? I actually don't
> like this idea but I can't think of any other way to get a flat
> floor. (I once used Northern Yellow Cedar for decking, but
>
> I also don't know how such decking surface would hold up to being
> assaulted by the wheels.
> Can anyone recommend an alternate type flooring that will stand up to
> outdoor NJ exposure.
> I probably won't build it until next spring.
I vote for concrete too. Around here (central Florida) you could hire it
done for about $2.75/sq.ft.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> Can anyone recommend an alternate type flooring that will stand up to
>> outdoor NJ exposure.
>> I probably won't build it until next spring.
>
> Exterior grade 1" ply over framing with some cheap replacable linoleum
> (spelling?) rolled out over it.
Sorry for being late to the party.
The ply with linoleum is not a bad way to go, but you would need to glue it
down to the ply with mastic. Otherwise, it would roll forward from rolling
a heavy machine, like a wave. BTDT. I would use a layer of 1/2" then a
layer of 3/4" with the seams not falling in the same place.
Easier to just lay another layer of ply and sheet goods over the first,
layer, when the sheet goods needs to be replaced. The good thing about
using sheet goods is the fact that it will keep
the ply somewhat dry, to make it last longer. I would use treated ply,
instead of exterior ply. The ext will not hold up for more than a couple
years.
The best way is the concrete, but forget the steel for the base. WAY more
expensive, compared to gravel or dirt fill.
I had a friend that put a new deck on his pontoon boat. He used treated
plywood, and then covered it with a layer of fiberglass cloth and epoxy.
Very durable, and the fiberglass kept the wood dry.
You would not be happy with using planks like a regular deck. It would have
to use pneumatic wheels to roll around machines. Still, dropped screws and
nails and parts of machines being taken apart will always disappear down the
cracks. Murphy's Law, I think!
Jim in NC
-MIKE- wrote the following:
> On 9/28/10 8:38 PM, willshak wrote:
>> J. Clarke wrote the following:
>>> In article <[email protected]>, willshak@
>>> 00hvc.rr.com says...
>>>> -MIKE- wrote the following:
>>>>> On 9/28/10 9:38 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>>>>>>> I probably won't build it until next spring.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I vote concrete like some of the other responders.
>>>>>>> Just think about rolling the machines out there after a rain. Do
>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>> want to be using dangerous tools with a wet wood/tile deck?
>>>>>> How is a wet concrete deck better?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>> Neither is an issue with GFCI breakers.
>>>> Perhaps not, but what about slipping on a wet surface? How would a
>>>> GFCI help there, especially resetting it with the one hand you may
>>>> have left?
>>>
>>> And you can't slip on concrete?
>>
>> I find that I am less likely to slip on concrete than on wood or tile
>> after a rain, but your mileage may vary.
>>
>
> Of course you would slip on concrete that is finished smooth like an
> indoor floor, but who slips on a wet driveway?
>
>
I don't understand. Who said anything about smoothing outdoor concrete?
All outdoor concrete that is going to remain bare is, or should be,
broom brushed to reduce slippage.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> KIMOSABE wrote:
> > I have my shop in a not-big-enough shed.
> >
> > Several of my machines are on hard rubber dolly wheels.
> >
> > I'm thinking of building a 8' x 10'platform/deck outside the front
> > door. I want it so that I'd have a place to roll out a couple of
> > machines when I needed more elbow room, or to roll the table saw onto
> > when I have to cut sheet goods.
> > I think I can do it with 2 x 6 joists held off the ground by masonry
> > blocks. If I put a typical surface on, I'll run into the hassle of
> > rolling the machines over grooves.
> >
> > If I did use 2 x 6 decking I'm thinking that I'd like to rip flat
> > edges on them so that they would butt to create a flat floor. Would
> > eliminating the spacing lead to weathering problems? I actually don't
> > like this idea but I can't think of any other way to get a flat
> > floor. (I once used Northern Yellow Cedar for decking, but
> >
> > I also don't know how such decking surface would hold up to being
> > assaulted by the wheels.
> > Can anyone recommend an alternate type flooring that will stand up to
> > outdoor NJ exposure.
> > I probably won't build it until next spring.
>
> I vote for concrete too. Around here (central Florida) you could hire it
> done for about $2.75/sq.ft.
If concrete's not an option I'd be tempted to try a couple of layers of
3/4 Extira over whatever support structure is appropriate, then shoot
truck-bed liner on it.
In article <[email protected]>, willshak@
00hvc.rr.com says...
>
> KIMOSABE wrote the following:
> > I have my shop in a not-big-enough shed.
> >
> > Several of my machines are on hard rubber dolly wheels.
> >
> > I'm thinking of building a 8' x 10'platform/deck outside the front
> > door. I want it so that I'd have a place to roll out a couple of
> > machines when I needed more elbow room, or to roll the table saw onto
> > when I have to cut sheet goods.
> > I think I can do it with 2 x 6 joists held off the ground by masonry
> > blocks. If I put a typical surface on, I'll run into the hassle of
> > rolling the machines over grooves.
> >
> > If I did use 2 x 6 decking I'm thinking that I'd like to rip flat
> > edges on them so that they would butt to create a flat floor. Would
> > eliminating the spacing lead to weathering problems? I actually don't
> > like this idea but I can't think of any other way to get a flat
> > floor. (I once used Northern Yellow Cedar for decking, but
> >
> > I also don't know how such decking surface would hold up to being
> > assaulted by the wheels.
> > Can anyone recommend an alternate type flooring that will stand up to
> > outdoor NJ exposure.
> > I probably won't build it until next spring.
> >
>
> I vote concrete like some of the other responders.
> Just think about rolling the machines out there after a rain. Do you
> want to be using dangerous tools with a wet wood/tile deck?
How is a wet concrete deck better?
In article <[email protected]>, willshak@
00hvc.rr.com says...
>
> -MIKE- wrote the following:
> > On 9/28/10 9:38 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> >>>> I probably won't build it until next spring.
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> I vote concrete like some of the other responders.
> >>> Just think about rolling the machines out there after a rain. Do you
> >>> want to be using dangerous tools with a wet wood/tile deck?
> >>
> >> How is a wet concrete deck better?
> >>
> >>
> >
> > Neither is an issue with GFCI breakers.
>
> Perhaps not, but what about slipping on a wet surface? How would a GFCI
> help there, especially resetting it with the one hand you may have left?
And you can't slip on concrete?
J. Clarke wrote the following:
> In article <[email protected]>, willshak@
> 00hvc.rr.com says...
>
>> KIMOSABE wrote the following:
>>
>>> I have my shop in a not-big-enough shed.
>>>
>>> Several of my machines are on hard rubber dolly wheels.
>>>
>>> I'm thinking of building a 8' x 10'platform/deck outside the front
>>> door. I want it so that I'd have a place to roll out a couple of
>>> machines when I needed more elbow room, or to roll the table saw onto
>>> when I have to cut sheet goods.
>>> I think I can do it with 2 x 6 joists held off the ground by masonry
>>> blocks. If I put a typical surface on, I'll run into the hassle of
>>> rolling the machines over grooves.
>>>
>>> If I did use 2 x 6 decking I'm thinking that I'd like to rip flat
>>> edges on them so that they would butt to create a flat floor. Would
>>> eliminating the spacing lead to weathering problems? I actually don't
>>> like this idea but I can't think of any other way to get a flat
>>> floor. (I once used Northern Yellow Cedar for decking, but
>>>
>>> I also don't know how such decking surface would hold up to being
>>> assaulted by the wheels.
>>> Can anyone recommend an alternate type flooring that will stand up to
>>> outdoor NJ exposure.
>>> I probably won't build it until next spring.
>>>
>>>
>> I vote concrete like some of the other responders.
>> Just think about rolling the machines out there after a rain. Do you
>> want to be using dangerous tools with a wet wood/tile deck?
>>
>
> How is a wet concrete deck better?
>
It absorbs water better.
>
>
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
[email protected] wrote the following:
> On Sep 28, 8:06 am, willshak <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> KIMOSABE wrote the following:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> I have my shop in a not-big-enough shed.
>>>
>>> Several of my machines are on hard rubber dolly wheels.
>>>
>>> I'm thinking of building a 8' x 10'platform/deck outside the front
>>> door. I want it so that I'd have a place to roll out a couple of
>>> machines when I needed more elbow room, or to roll the table saw onto
>>> when I have to cut sheet goods.
>>> I think I can do it with 2 x 6 joists held off the ground by masonry
>>> blocks. If I put a typical surface on, I'll run into the hassle of
>>> rolling the machines over grooves.
>>>
>>> If I did use 2 x 6 decking I'm thinking that I'd like to rip flat
>>> edges on them so that they would butt to create a flat floor. Would
>>> eliminating the spacing lead to weathering problems? I actually don't
>>> like this idea but I can't think of any other way to get a flat
>>> floor. (I once used Northern Yellow Cedar for decking, but
>>>
>>> I also don't know how such decking surface would hold up to being
>>> assaulted by the wheels.
>>> Can anyone recommend an alternate type flooring that will stand up to
>>> outdoor NJ exposure.
>>> I probably won't build it until next spring.
>>>
>> I vote concrete like some of the other responders.
>> Just think about rolling the machines out there after a rain. Do you
>> want to be using dangerous tools with a wet wood/tile deck?
>>
>
> What's the difference between tile and concrete? If you're worried
> about electricity and water mixing, tile should be better. If it's
> slipping that's the problem, the tile can be selected for its slip
> resistance. A litttle slope should clear it of water pretty quickly.
>
Concrete is more absorbent.
Yeah, putting a table saw or RAS on a a slanted surface would be much
better!
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
-MIKE- wrote the following:
> On 9/28/10 9:38 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>>> I probably won't build it until next spring.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I vote concrete like some of the other responders.
>>> Just think about rolling the machines out there after a rain. Do you
>>> want to be using dangerous tools with a wet wood/tile deck?
>>
>> How is a wet concrete deck better?
>>
>>
>
> Neither is an issue with GFCI breakers.
Perhaps not, but what about slipping on a wet surface? How would a GFCI
help there, especially resetting it with the one hand you may have left?
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
J. Clarke wrote the following:
> In article <[email protected]>, willshak@
> 00hvc.rr.com says...
>
>> -MIKE- wrote the following:
>>
>>> On 9/28/10 9:38 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>>
>>>>>> I probably won't build it until next spring.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>> I vote concrete like some of the other responders.
>>>>> Just think about rolling the machines out there after a rain. Do you
>>>>> want to be using dangerous tools with a wet wood/tile deck?
>>>>>
>>>> How is a wet concrete deck better?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Neither is an issue with GFCI breakers.
>>>
>> Perhaps not, but what about slipping on a wet surface? How would a GFCI
>> help there, especially resetting it with the one hand you may have left?
>>
>
> And you can't slip on concrete?
I find that I am less likely to slip on concrete than on wood or tile
after a rain, but your mileage may vary.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
KIMOSABE wrote the following:
> I have my shop in a not-big-enough shed.
>
> Several of my machines are on hard rubber dolly wheels.
>
> I'm thinking of building a 8' x 10'platform/deck outside the front
> door. I want it so that I'd have a place to roll out a couple of
> machines when I needed more elbow room, or to roll the table saw onto
> when I have to cut sheet goods.
> I think I can do it with 2 x 6 joists held off the ground by masonry
> blocks. If I put a typical surface on, I'll run into the hassle of
> rolling the machines over grooves.
>
> If I did use 2 x 6 decking I'm thinking that I'd like to rip flat
> edges on them so that they would butt to create a flat floor. Would
> eliminating the spacing lead to weathering problems? I actually don't
> like this idea but I can't think of any other way to get a flat
> floor. (I once used Northern Yellow Cedar for decking, but
>
> I also don't know how such decking surface would hold up to being
> assaulted by the wheels.
> Can anyone recommend an alternate type flooring that will stand up to
> outdoor NJ exposure.
> I probably won't build it until next spring.
>
I vote concrete like some of the other responders.
Just think about rolling the machines out there after a rain. Do you
want to be using dangerous tools with a wet wood/tile deck?
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> For that matter, how many of us have used our power tools on a driveway
> at a client's house? This is not rocket surgery, folks.
Yeah, but when I used my 1/2 sheet powered pad sander with 400 grit
sandpaper, I had a lot of difficulty putting a non-slip surface on the
concrete. :)
On 9/27/10 10:52 PM, KIMOSABE wrote:
> I have my shop in a not-big-enough shed.
>
> Several of my machines are on hard rubber dolly wheels.
>
> I'm thinking of building a 8' x 10'platform/deck outside the front
> door. I want it so that I'd have a place to roll out a couple of
> machines when I needed more elbow room, or to roll the table saw onto
> when I have to cut sheet goods.
> I think I can do it with 2 x 6 joists held off the ground by masonry
> blocks. If I put a typical surface on, I'll run into the hassle of
> rolling the machines over grooves.
>
> If I did use 2 x 6 decking I'm thinking that I'd like to rip flat
> edges on them so that they would butt to create a flat floor. Would
> eliminating the spacing lead to weathering problems? I actually don't
> like this idea but I can't think of any other way to get a flat
> floor. (I once used Northern Yellow Cedar for decking, but
>
> I also don't know how such decking surface would hold up to being
> assaulted by the wheels.
> Can anyone recommend an alternate type flooring that will stand up to
> outdoor NJ exposure.
> I probably won't build it until next spring.
I wouldn't butt deck boards together.
Just brainstorming with the following, how about an overlay on a
standard deck:
Hardboard - probably have to be replaced every couple years, but cheap.
Hardiboard - makes good siding, not sure about for a floor product.
Metal - probably too hot in the summer.
Just ideas to start a discussion.
--
Froz...
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
Concrete pad.
Use concrete block or landscaping bricks for a skirt to bring it up to
the grade of the shed and packed fill dirt and crusher-run gravel dust.
If the shed is on grade with the surrounding ground, pour a floating
slab foundation. Google it. The "footing" portion doesn't have to be as
deep and wide as it would to hold a structure above... just deep enough
to keep the pad from creeping due to freeze and thaw.
If you go the lumber route, pressure treated plywood for the deck.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/28/10 9:38 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>> I probably won't build it until next spring.
>>>
>>
>> I vote concrete like some of the other responders.
>> Just think about rolling the machines out there after a rain. Do you
>> want to be using dangerous tools with a wet wood/tile deck?
>
> How is a wet concrete deck better?
>
>
Neither is an issue with GFCI breakers.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/28/10 12:35 PM, KIMOSABE wrote:
> On Sep 27, 11:19 pm, Sonny<[email protected]> wrote:
>> How high is your shed's floor off the ground?
>>
>> Sonny
>
> The shed sits on masonry blocks which are in turn sitting on an 8" bed
> of crushed stone. This was required by the bldg. code.
>
> The actual floor of the shed is 9 inches above ground level. The land
> here is VERY sandy soil (NJ shore area). The land rises a few inches
> as it gets farther from the front.
Oh geez, New Jersey.
You probably can't pee in your back yard with installing a leach bed and
getting a permit from the EPA. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/28/10 6:33 PM, willshak wrote:
> [email protected] wrote the following:
>> What's the difference between tile and concrete? If you're worried
>> about electricity and water mixing, tile should be better. If it's
>> slipping that's the problem, the tile can be selected for its slip
>> resistance. A litttle slope should clear it of water pretty quickly.
> Concrete is more absorbent.
> Yeah, putting a table saw or RAS on a a slanted surface would be much
> better!
>
Tangent....
They started using a porous concrete for non structural applications that
cover the ground, like sidewalks and parking lots, in order to reduce
flooding from storm waters.
The stuff is remarkable. They held up a slab of it and let a hose run on
top. The water ran through a 4" slab like a coffee filter.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/28/10 6:35 PM, willshak wrote:
> -MIKE- wrote the following:
>> On 9/28/10 9:38 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>>>> I probably won't build it until next spring.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I vote concrete like some of the other responders.
>>>> Just think about rolling the machines out there after a rain. Do you
>>>> want to be using dangerous tools with a wet wood/tile deck?
>>>
>>> How is a wet concrete deck better?
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Neither is an issue with GFCI breakers.
>
> Perhaps not, but what about slipping on a wet surface? How would a GFCI
> help there, especially resetting it with the one hand you may have left?
>
Wow, Bill. You couldn't assume by my statement that I hadn't clued in to
the slippage issue? Did I miss the smiley face?
To the point, I would brush finish the pad like a driveway and not like
an indoor floor. I've played plenty of basketball games on wet concrete
driveways with no slipping.
For that matter, how many of us have used our power tools on a driveway
at a client's house? This is not rocket surgery, folks.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/28/10 6:55 PM, Sonny wrote:
> Another consideration (for the future, maybe?): What might be the
> propect of using a newly poured slab to become the floor of a new
> shed, later. Would this relocation, of a later shop (I like shop,
> better), be coordinated with your surroundings/lawn?
>
> Sonny
I neglected to mention it in my post, but that's one reason I suggested
a floating slab foundation. He would be ready to go, when and if he
decided to expand the shop.. er, shed.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/28/10 7:28 PM, Upscale wrote:
> "-MIKE-"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>> For that matter, how many of us have used our power tools on a driveway
>> at a client's house? This is not rocket surgery, folks.
>
> Yeah, but when I used my 1/2 sheet powered pad sander with 400 grit
> sandpaper, I had a lot of difficulty putting a non-slip surface on the
> concrete. :)
>
Sorry, I'm dense... I don't get it.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/28/10 8:38 PM, willshak wrote:
> J. Clarke wrote the following:
>> In article <[email protected]>, willshak@
>> 00hvc.rr.com says...
>>> -MIKE- wrote the following:
>>>> On 9/28/10 9:38 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>>>>>> I probably won't build it until next spring.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> I vote concrete like some of the other responders.
>>>>>> Just think about rolling the machines out there after a rain. Do you
>>>>>> want to be using dangerous tools with a wet wood/tile deck?
>>>>> How is a wet concrete deck better?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> Neither is an issue with GFCI breakers.
>>> Perhaps not, but what about slipping on a wet surface? How would a
>>> GFCI help there, especially resetting it with the one hand you may
>>> have left?
>>
>> And you can't slip on concrete?
>
> I find that I am less likely to slip on concrete than on wood or tile
> after a rain, but your mileage may vary.
>
Of course you would slip on concrete that is finished smooth like an
indoor floor, but who slips on a wet driveway?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/30/10 2:58 PM, willshak wrote:
> -MIKE- wrote the following:
>> On 9/28/10 8:38 PM, willshak wrote:
>>> J. Clarke wrote the following:
>>>> In article <[email protected]>, willshak@
>>>> 00hvc.rr.com says...
>>>>> -MIKE- wrote the following:
>>>>>> On 9/28/10 9:38 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>>>>>>>> I probably won't build it until next spring.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I vote concrete like some of the other responders.
>>>>>>>> Just think about rolling the machines out there after a rain. Do
>>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>>> want to be using dangerous tools with a wet wood/tile deck?
>>>>>>> How is a wet concrete deck better?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> Neither is an issue with GFCI breakers.
>>>>> Perhaps not, but what about slipping on a wet surface? How would a
>>>>> GFCI help there, especially resetting it with the one hand you may
>>>>> have left?
>>>>
>>>> And you can't slip on concrete?
>>>
>>> I find that I am less likely to slip on concrete than on wood or tile
>>> after a rain, but your mileage may vary.
>>>
>>
>> Of course you would slip on concrete that is finished smooth like an
>> indoor floor, but who slips on a wet driveway?
>>
>>
>
> I don't understand. Who said anything about smoothing outdoor concrete?
You quoted it.
> All outdoor concrete that is going to remain bare is, or should be,
> broom brushed to reduce slippage.
>
My point, exactly.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/30/10 8:06 PM, willshak wrote:
> -MIKE- wrote the following:
>> On 9/30/10 2:58 PM, willshak wrote:
>>> -MIKE- wrote the following:
>>>> On 9/28/10 8:38 PM, willshak wrote:
>>>>> J. Clarke wrote the following:
>>>>>> In article <[email protected]>,
>>>>>> willshak@
>>>>>> 00hvc.rr.com says...
>>>>>>> -MIKE- wrote the following:
>>>>>>>> On 9/28/10 9:38 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> I probably won't build it until next spring.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I vote concrete like some of the other responders.
>>>>>>>>>> Just think about rolling the machines out there after a rain. Do
>>>>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>>>>> want to be using dangerous tools with a wet wood/tile deck?
>>>>>>>>> How is a wet concrete deck better?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Neither is an issue with GFCI breakers.
>>>>>>> Perhaps not, but what about slipping on a wet surface? How would a
>>>>>>> GFCI help there, especially resetting it with the one hand you may
>>>>>>> have left?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> And you can't slip on concrete?
>>>>>
>>>>> I find that I am less likely to slip on concrete than on wood or tile
>>>>> after a rain, but your mileage may vary.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Of course you would slip on concrete that is finished smooth like an
>>>> indoor floor, but who slips on a wet driveway?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> I don't understand. Who said anything about smoothing outdoor concrete?
>>
>> You quoted it.
>
> I did no such thing. Nowhere in this thread from my entrance (all quoted
> above) is smoothed concrete even mentioned until you mentioned it.
>
You are correct, sir. My bad.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
-MIKE- wrote the following:
> On 9/30/10 2:58 PM, willshak wrote:
>> -MIKE- wrote the following:
>>> On 9/28/10 8:38 PM, willshak wrote:
>>>> J. Clarke wrote the following:
>>>>> In article <[email protected]>,
>>>>> willshak@
>>>>> 00hvc.rr.com says...
>>>>>> -MIKE- wrote the following:
>>>>>>> On 9/28/10 9:38 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> I probably won't build it until next spring.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I vote concrete like some of the other responders.
>>>>>>>>> Just think about rolling the machines out there after a rain. Do
>>>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>>>> want to be using dangerous tools with a wet wood/tile deck?
>>>>>>>> How is a wet concrete deck better?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Neither is an issue with GFCI breakers.
>>>>>> Perhaps not, but what about slipping on a wet surface? How would a
>>>>>> GFCI help there, especially resetting it with the one hand you may
>>>>>> have left?
>>>>>
>>>>> And you can't slip on concrete?
>>>>
>>>> I find that I am less likely to slip on concrete than on wood or tile
>>>> after a rain, but your mileage may vary.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Of course you would slip on concrete that is finished smooth like an
>>> indoor floor, but who slips on a wet driveway?
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I don't understand. Who said anything about smoothing outdoor concrete?
>
> You quoted it.
I did no such thing. Nowhere in this thread from my entrance (all quoted
above) is smoothed concrete even mentioned until you mentioned it.
>
>> All outdoor concrete that is going to remain bare is, or should be,
>> broom brushed to reduce slippage.
>>
>
> My point, exactly.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
-MIKE- wrote the following:
> On 9/30/10 8:06 PM, willshak wrote:
>> -MIKE- wrote the following:
>>> On 9/30/10 2:58 PM, willshak wrote:
>>>> -MIKE- wrote the following:
>>>>> On 9/28/10 8:38 PM, willshak wrote:
>>>>>> J. Clarke wrote the following:
>>>>>>> In article <[email protected]>,
>>>>>>> willshak@
>>>>>>> 00hvc.rr.com says...
>>>>>>>> -MIKE- wrote the following:
>>>>>>>>> On 9/28/10 9:38 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> I probably won't build it until next spring.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I vote concrete like some of the other responders.
>>>>>>>>>>> Just think about rolling the machines out there after a
>>>>>>>>>>> rain. Do
>>>>>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>>>>>> want to be using dangerous tools with a wet wood/tile deck?
>>>>>>>>>> How is a wet concrete deck better?
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Neither is an issue with GFCI breakers.
>>>>>>>> Perhaps not, but what about slipping on a wet surface? How would a
>>>>>>>> GFCI help there, especially resetting it with the one hand you may
>>>>>>>> have left?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> And you can't slip on concrete?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I find that I am less likely to slip on concrete than on wood or
>>>>>> tile
>>>>>> after a rain, but your mileage may vary.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Of course you would slip on concrete that is finished smooth like an
>>>>> indoor floor, but who slips on a wet driveway?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I don't understand. Who said anything about smoothing outdoor
>>>> concrete?
>>>
>>> You quoted it.
>>
>> I did no such thing. Nowhere in this thread from my entrance (all quoted
>> above) is smoothed concrete even mentioned until you mentioned it.
>>
>
> You are correct, sir. My bad.
Fuggetaboutit. :-)
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 19:49:09 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 9/28/10 7:28 PM, Upscale wrote:
>> "-MIKE-"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> For that matter, how many of us have used our power tools on a driveway
>>> at a client's house? This is not rocket surgery, folks.
>>
>> Yeah, but when I used my 1/2 sheet powered pad sander with 400 grit
>> sandpaper, I had a lot of difficulty putting a non-slip surface on the
>> concrete. :)
>>
>
>Sorry, I'm dense... I don't get it.
Tiny sander, way too fine a grit, very large surface to prep.
I'd have run 32 grit on the belt sandah and let it run across the pad
by itself, hauling it back by the cord to get the surface prepped.
You?
--
You can't wait for inspiration. You have to go after it with a club.
--Jack London
"FrozenNorth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 9/27/10 10:52 PM, KIMOSABE wrote:
>> I have my shop in a not-big-enough shed.
>>
>> Several of my machines are on hard rubber dolly wheels.
>>
>> I'm thinking of building a 8' x 10'platform/deck outside the front
>> door. I want it so that I'd have a place to roll out a couple of
>> machines when I needed more elbow room, or to roll the table saw onto
>> when I have to cut sheet goods.
>> I think I can do it with 2 x 6 joists held off the ground by masonry
>> blocks. If I put a typical surface on, I'll run into the hassle of
>> rolling the machines over grooves.
>>
>> If I did use 2 x 6 decking I'm thinking that I'd like to rip flat
>> edges on them so that they would butt to create a flat floor. Would
>> eliminating the spacing lead to weathering problems? I actually don't
>> like this idea but I can't think of any other way to get a flat
>> floor. (I once used Northern Yellow Cedar for decking, but
>>
>> I also don't know how such decking surface would hold up to being
>> assaulted by the wheels.
>> Can anyone recommend an alternate type flooring that will stand up to
>> outdoor NJ exposure.
>> I probably won't build it until next spring.
>
> I wouldn't butt deck boards together.
> Just brainstorming with the following, how about an overlay on a standard
> deck:
Ipe though it's pricey. It should butt nicely and requires almost zero
care.
Dave in Houston
"KIMOSABE" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have my shop in a not-big-enough shed.
>
> Several of my machines are on hard rubber dolly wheels.
>
> I'm thinking of building a 8' x 10'platform/deck outside the front
> door. I want it so that I'd have a place to roll out a couple of
> machines when I needed more elbow room, or to roll the table saw onto
> when I have to cut sheet goods.
> I think I can do it with 2 x 6 joists held off the ground by masonry
> blocks. If I put a typical surface on, I'll run into the hassle of
> rolling the machines over grooves.
>
> If I did use 2 x 6 decking I'm thinking that I'd like to rip flat
> edges on them so that they would butt to create a flat floor. Would
> eliminating the spacing lead to weathering problems? I actually don't
> like this idea but I can't think of any other way to get a flat
> floor. (I once used Northern Yellow Cedar for decking, but
>
> I also don't know how such decking surface would hold up to being
> assaulted by the wheels.
> Can anyone recommend an alternate type flooring that will stand up to
> outdoor NJ exposure.
> I probably won't build it until next spring.
Investigate steel. Columns with floor joists, then B decking with about two
to three inches of concrete. Spendy, but not that hard to do, and maintains
easier than wood in that climate.
Steve
On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 19:52:07 -0700 (PDT), KIMOSABE
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have my shop in a not-big-enough shed.
>
>Several of my machines are on hard rubber dolly wheels.
>
>I'm thinking of building a 8' x 10'platform/deck outside the front
>door. I want it so that I'd have a place to roll out a couple of
>machines when I needed more elbow room, or to roll the table saw onto
>when I have to cut sheet goods.
>I think I can do it with 2 x 6 joists held off the ground by masonry
>blocks. If I put a typical surface on, I'll run into the hassle of
>rolling the machines over grooves.
>
>If I did use 2 x 6 decking I'm thinking that I'd like to rip flat
>edges on them so that they would butt to create a flat floor. Would
>eliminating the spacing lead to weathering problems? I actually don't
>like this idea but I can't think of any other way to get a flat
>floor. (I once used Northern Yellow Cedar for decking, but
Switch to 5" rubber-wheeled casters and you won't have any problem
rolling over regular decking with the eased edges.
>I also don't know how such decking surface would hold up to being
>assaulted by the wheels.
Probably fairly well. Going up in size will help there, too.
>Can anyone recommend an alternate type flooring that will stand up to
>outdoor NJ exposure.
>I probably won't build it until next spring.
Concrete is a definite contender.
--
You can't wait for inspiration. You have to go after it with a club.
--Jack London
"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I'd have run 32 grit on the belt sandah and let it run across the pad
> by itself, hauling it back by the cord to get the surface prepped.
Sounds like an excuse to slack off and practice your sander racing.