It is my understanding that softwoods like pine and fir must be
conditioned before staining. What is wood conditioner made of
and is there any substitute?
I guess shellac would seal the wood so it wouldn't be
conducive to staining to be used in lieu of the wood
conditioner. So if you weren't staining, one could
use shellac prior to putting on a poly. Is that right?
TIA for your comments,
Thunder
P.S. I'm building my first table out of white pine and spruce.
This is mainly for a learning experience but my daughter
was looking for an 18" by 60" hall/sofa table for an
alcove. So if it doesn't come out very well, it will
be well hidden, ha!
On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 09:34:47 -0500, "RonB" <[email protected]> wrote:
>You can buy pre-stain conditioners made by several of the paint and finish
>companies. Some will tell you that mineral spirits will do as well. I
>personally have not tried spirits but it probably works and is a little
>cheaper.
A coat of Natural stain also works well. Anything clear that will
be absorbed into the wood and is compatible with the color stain
should work.
The basic idea is to get the more porous areas to absorb something
clear, preventing the color from going extra deep in that area and
blotching.
Barry
"Rolling Thunder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It is my understanding that softwoods like pine and fir must be
> conditioned before staining. What is wood conditioner made of
> and is there any substitute?
>
> I guess shellac would seal the wood so it wouldn't be
> conducive to staining to be used in lieu of the wood
> conditioner.
Put on a spit coat of shellac and then stain it. The conditioner is
essentially mineral spirits. Brush it on, let it sit a few minutes, then
stain.
Rolling Thunder <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> It is my understanding that softwoods like pine and fir must be
> conditioned before staining. What is wood conditioner made of
> and is there any substitute?
>
> I guess shellac would seal the wood so it wouldn't be
> conducive to staining to be used in lieu of the wood
> conditioner. So if you weren't staining, one could
> use shellac prior to putting on a poly. Is that right?
>
> TIA for your comments,
>
> Thunder
>
> P.S. I'm building my first table out of white pine and spruce.
> This is mainly for a learning experience but my daughter
> was looking for an 18" by 60" hall/sofa table for an
> alcove. So if it doesn't come out very well, it will
> be well hidden, ha!
Here is a recipe for conditioner from American Woodworker: 1 part
boiled linseed oil, 8 parts mineral spirits.
You will do better with a seal coat of 1# cut of shellac. You will get less
blotching than with conditioner. After applying the shellac, scuff it with
320 grit paper before applying the topcoat.
Preston
"Rolling Thunder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It is my understanding that softwoods like pine and fir must be
> conditioned before staining. What is wood conditioner made of
> and is there any substitute?
>
> I guess shellac would seal the wood so it wouldn't be
> conducive to staining to be used in lieu of the wood
> conditioner. So if you weren't staining, one could
> use shellac prior to putting on a poly. Is that right?
>
> TIA for your comments,
>
> Thunder
>
> P.S. I'm building my first table out of white pine and spruce.
> This is mainly for a learning experience but my daughter
> was looking for an 18" by 60" hall/sofa table for an
> alcove. So if it doesn't come out very well, it will
> be well hidden, ha!
>
>
You can buy pre-stain conditioners made by several of the paint and finish
companies. Some will tell you that mineral spirits will do as well. I
personally have not tried spirits but it probably works and is a little
cheaper.
"Rolling Thunder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It is my understanding that softwoods like pine and fir must be
> conditioned before staining. What is wood conditioner made of
> and is there any substitute?
>
> I guess shellac would seal the wood so it wouldn't be
> conducive to staining to be used in lieu of the wood
> conditioner. So if you weren't staining, one could
> use shellac prior to putting on a poly. Is that right?
>
> TIA for your comments,
>
> Thunder
>
> P.S. I'm building my first table out of white pine and spruce.
> This is mainly for a learning experience but my daughter
> was looking for an 18" by 60" hall/sofa table for an
> alcove. So if it doesn't come out very well, it will
> be well hidden, ha!
>
>