"Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Wanna come to Whitehorse & do mine? ;-)
Actually I love all expenses paid service calls.
> Actually, if you DAGS on "2040" in rec.woodworking, you'll see quite a
> few discussions on resurfacing rollers.
>
> What do you mean by crack & separate? Mine are just worn, with ridges,
> and I suspect the rubber has hardened.
>
> Luigi
Some of them dry out & crack & parts even start to separate from the steel,
the worst is if the rubber starts to bunch up on the surface & becomes
slightly sticky....normally from a solvent being used to clean then I
suspect.
--
© Jon Down ®
http://www.stores.ebay.com/jdpowertoolcanada
"Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 2 Mar 2004 09:25:55 -0500, "P©WÉ®T©©LMAN
> ²ºº4" <[email protected]> scribbled:
> >
> >"Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
>
> >> For some weird reason, Makita stopped showing how to do it and the
> >> later manuals omitted it. Be prepared to curse & swear before you get
> >> the adjustment screws to move. WD40 and a propane torch might be
> >> required. DAMHIKT.
> >
> >That's why I said the type 2 is easier to adjust by hand, they modified
that
> >feature, the earlier model was a bitch unless the adjustment screw had
been
> >used often & still turned with ease. The type 1 can be easily converted
to
> >the type 2 if it gives you trouble.
>
> I did get the type 2 assemblies quite a number of years ago, but never
> installed them. Will probably have to fairly soon as the rollers are
> starting to look pretty fugly and might need resurfacing or replacing.
> Any suggestions where I can get them resurfaced? I am also going to
> ask the local newspapers and printers where they get theirs done.
>
> Luigi
As far as resurfacing....no clue....we always install new OEM rollers on the
2040 when required at about $390 Canadian $300US (installed & warrantied for
90 days) One of the few tools we even prefer to service on the job so we can
run a few boards through. Well worth the money if the rest of the planer is
in good shape especially if it has the type 2 adjusters too. Most rollers
crack & separate from having been set too tight.
Jon~
On Thu, 4 Mar 2004 22:35:29 -0500, "P©WÉ®T©©LMAN
²ºº4" <[email protected]> scribbled:
>As far as resurfacing....no clue....we always install new OEM rollers on the
>2040 when required at about $390 Canadian $300US (installed & warrantied for
>90 days) One of the few tools we even prefer to service on the job so we can
>run a few boards through. Well worth the money if the rest of the planer is
>in good shape especially if it has the type 2 adjusters too. Most rollers
>crack & separate from having been set too tight.
Wanna come to Whitehorse & do mine? ;-)
Actually, if you DAGS on "2040" in rec.woodworking, you'll see quite a
few discussions on resurfacing rollers.
What do you mean by crack & separate? Mine are just worn, with ridges,
and I suspect the rubber has hardened.
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
"Gerry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:jIJ0c.115027$Hy3.110237@edtnps89...
> Hi, unless you have one over 12 1/2 " width, I don't believe you have an
> option. Ger.
That's why I am asking for advice from those who own 2030s and 2040s.
Thanks,
Jim
"Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote
> http://www.makita.com/res_tools/pdf/noncurrent_owners/2040.pdf
Thanks! Really weird but my manual has the steps before and after but skips
that part.
Cheers,
Jim
On Mon, 1 Mar 2004 09:03:47 -0800, "Jim Martin"
<[email protected]> scribbled:
>Hello Fellow Makita Owners:
>
>How high do you set your feed rollers relative to the blade? Somewhere I
>recall reading a post that said to adjust them so that they put a very
>minimal amount of pressure on the wood. The manual I have makes no mention
>of this adjustment at all.
http://www.makita.com/res_tools/pdf/noncurrent_owners/2040.pdf
Go to Page 11.
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
On Mon, 1 Mar 2004 18:56:13 -0700, "Jim Martin"
<[email protected]> scribbled:
>
>"Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote
>> http://www.makita.com/res_tools/pdf/noncurrent_owners/2040.pdf
>
>Thanks! Really weird but my manual has the steps before and after but skips
>that part.
For some weird reason, Makita stopped showing how to do it and the
later manuals omitted it. Be prepared to curse & swear before you get
the adjustment screws to move. WD40 and a propane torch might be
required. DAMHIKT.
In FWW #52 (May-June 1985 - also available in the "Power Saws and
Planers" Best of FWW book), there was an article by Dave Sloan on
"Small Power Planers". Quoting from Sloan:
>The bed rollers are steel, but the feed rollers are rubber. All
>are adjustable, but the current owners' manual doesn't explain
>how to adjust feed-roller height (our old manual did). This
>omission is due to Makita's concern that misadjustment might
>overstress the cast-aluminum frame of the machine. Anyone who
>uses the 2040 seriously will need to know how to adjust the feed
>rollers. Roller height is set by means of screws on the top of
>the planer at the ends of each roller, and is adjusted with a
>slotted, threaded ring that surrounds the spring-tension screw.
>This arrangement could be improved upon. Trying to turn the
>large out side ring is impossible with a regular screwdriver,
>and I finally resorted to using a big cold chisel as a screwdriver.
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
"Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 1 Mar 2004 18:56:13 -0700, "Jim Martin"
> <[email protected]> scribbled:
>
> >
> >"Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote
> >> http://www.makita.com/res_tools/pdf/noncurrent_owners/2040.pdf
> >
> >Thanks! Really weird but my manual has the steps before and after but
skips
> >that part.
>
> For some weird reason, Makita stopped showing how to do it and the
> later manuals omitted it. Be prepared to curse & swear before you get
> the adjustment screws to move. WD40 and a propane torch might be
> required. DAMHIKT.
That's why I said the type 2 is easier to adjust by hand, they modified that
feature, the earlier model was a bitch unless the adjustment screw had been
used often & still turned with ease. The type 1 can be easily converted to
the type 2 if it gives you trouble.
--
© Jon Down ®
http://www.stores.ebay.com/jdpowertoolcanada
"Gerry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:jIJ0c.115027$Hy3.110237@edtnps89...
> Hi, unless you have one over 12 1/2 " width, I don't believe you have an
> option. Ger.
True
--
© Jon Down ®
My eBay items currently listed:
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=lamblies&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=25
"Jim Martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello Fellow Makita Owners:
>
> How high do you set your feed rollers relative to the blade? Somewhere I
> recall reading a post that said to adjust them so that they put a very
> minimal amount of pressure on the wood. The manual I have makes no mention
> of this adjustment at all.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
On the 12" Makita 2030 Planer jointer there is no adjustment , on the 15
5/8" Makita 2040 Planer there is a pressure adjustment screw, trial & error
on some test pieces is all you need to try...no hard & fast rule other than
the even minimum pressure on the roller in order to feed effectively. The
type 1 has treaded pressure adjustment screw pins & the type 2 is not
threaded, the type 2 is easier to adjust by hand.
--
© Jon Down ®
http://www.stores.ebay.com/jdpowertoolcanada
On Tue, 2 Mar 2004 09:25:55 -0500, "P©WÉ®T©©LMAN
²ºº4" <[email protected]> scribbled:
>
>"Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> For some weird reason, Makita stopped showing how to do it and the
>> later manuals omitted it. Be prepared to curse & swear before you get
>> the adjustment screws to move. WD40 and a propane torch might be
>> required. DAMHIKT.
>
>That's why I said the type 2 is easier to adjust by hand, they modified that
>feature, the earlier model was a bitch unless the adjustment screw had been
>used often & still turned with ease. The type 1 can be easily converted to
>the type 2 if it gives you trouble.
I did get the type 2 assemblies quite a number of years ago, but never
installed them. Will probably have to fairly soon as the rollers are
starting to look pretty fugly and might need resurfacing or replacing.
Any suggestions where I can get them resurfaced? I am also going to
ask the local newspapers and printers where they get theirs done.
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html