I was clamping some tenons and wiped away the excess glue
with a dry rag. I worry a little about how the thin residue
of glue might affect the finish. But I also read some time
ago not to use a wet rag because it causes problems with
raising the grain.
What's the definitive choice? To wet or not to wet?
Thanks,
s
On Aug 12, 5:07=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Aug 12, 4:46=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > "Leon" wrote:
> > > Totally agree and might I add, use or white TB or white Gorilla
> > > glue on lighter woods, =A0TB III on medium colored brown woods, and
> > > dark tint glue on dark woods. =A0I try to never use yellow glue.
>
> > -----------------------------------------
> > With the availability of high quality laminating epoxy which BTW,
> > cures clear and bridges gaps adding strength in the process, why would
> > anybody use overpriced, under peckered Gorilla glue?
>
> > Lew
>
> "Cuz it has a cute monkey on the label?
It _is_ awesome glue. but one bitch to work with..... sticky foamy
bitch to work with....(with which to work?) So ifn when you're going
through all the hassle, why NOT epoxy?
I mended a couple of 1 x 6 cedar planks in a distant neighbour's
fence, as a temporary measure, 5 years ago? Still there. Still full
strength. HE claims a domestic disturbance. *I* claim he should have
just paid that Michigan hooker beFORE she drove her Cavalier through
that fence...... yup, Cavalier...high class.
On Aug 13, 9:02=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> http://www.gorillaglue.com/glues/woodglue/index.aspx
Eeeeeeenterestink. (I hadn't heard of such a thing before)
On Aug 11, 6:49=A0pm, sam <[email protected]> wrote:
> I was clamping some tenons and wiped away the excess glue
> with a dry rag. I worry a little about how the thin residue
> of glue might affect the finish. But I also read some time
> ago not to use a wet rag because it causes problems with
> raising the grain.
>
> What's the definitive choice? To wet or not to wet?
I tend to agree that fashioning the joint, and using an appropriate
amount of glue (, and no more) is the best method.
That said, I tend to use either blue painter's tape or -- now -- Frog
Tape -- to protect the joint.
http://www.frogtape.com/
I've also had luck rubbing a block of paraffin wax at the joint
edges. It protects the wood from taking up the glue.
I've never liked the rag method -- wet OR dry.
On Aug 12, 4:46=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Leon" wrote:
> > Totally agree and might I add, use or white TB or white Gorilla
> > glue on lighter woods, =A0TB III on medium colored brown woods, and
> > dark tint glue on dark woods. =A0I try to never use yellow glue.
>
> -----------------------------------------
> With the availability of high quality laminating epoxy which BTW,
> cures clear and bridges gaps adding strength in the process, why would
> anybody use overpriced, under peckered Gorilla glue?
>
> Lew
"Cuz it has a cute monkey on the label?
"sam" wrote:
> I was clamping some tenons and wiped away the excess glue
> with a dry rag. I worry a little about how the thin residue
> of glue might affect the finish. But I also read some time
> ago not to use a wet rag because it causes problems with
> raising the grain.
>
> What's the definitive choice? To wet or not to wet?
--------------------------------------
1) Use less glue.
2) Apply glue with a plumber's acid brush with the bristles trimmed
back to about 1/2".
3) Tape joints with blue painter's tape.
Do not use cream colored masking tape.
4) Rinse away excess glie with a water soaked plumber's acid brush,
then wipe dry. Repeat as required.
Mastering 1 & 2 above eliminates the need for 3 & 4.
Lew
"Leon" wrote:
> Totally agree and might I add, use or white TB or white Gorilla
> glue on lighter woods, TB III on medium colored brown woods, and
> dark tint glue on dark woods. I try to never use yellow glue.
-----------------------------------------
With the availability of high quality laminating epoxy which BTW,
cures clear and bridges gaps adding strength in the process, why would
anybody use overpriced, under peckered Gorilla glue?
Lew
"sam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> I was clamping some tenons and wiped away the excess glue
> with a dry rag. I worry a little about how the thin residue
> of glue might affect the finish. But I also read some time
> ago not to use a wet rag because it causes problems with
> raising the grain.
>
> What's the definitive choice? To wet or not to wet?
>
> Thanks,
>
> s
I've been doing this for about 30 years now and for the first 20 or so hade
very good luck with using an almost dripping wet paper towel, even on red
oak. I did however rewipe several times with a progressively dryer paper
towel. Worked great and I never had the supposed problem of glue thinning
out and getting into the pores of the wood. Because I 95% of the time sand
a project after assembly raised grain was a non issue.
Today I seem to have mastered the proper amount of glue as I very seldom
have to deal with squeeze out at all. Swingman and I build lots of kitchen
cabinets and I don't recall us having to wipe squeeze out.
On Aug 11, 8:52=A0pm, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
> sam wrote:
>
> > I was clamping some tenons and wiped away the excess glue
> > with a dry rag. I worry a little about how the thin residue
> > of glue might affect the finish. But I also read some time
> > ago not to use a wet rag because it causes problems with
> > raising the grain.
>
> > What's the definitive choice? To wet or not to wet?
>
> The _definitive_ choice is use less glue so eliminate squeeze out... :)
>
> The alternative is to finish or wax surface first so glue doesn't soak
> into wood fibers.
Or to tape off the joint before assembly.
R
On Aug 12, 5:30=A0pm, FrozenNorth <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On 8/12/10 5:15 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> =A0 *I* claim he should have
>
> > just paid that Michigan hooker beFORE she drove her Cavalier through
> > that fence...... yup, Cavalier...high class.
>
> So much for buy American.
> :-)
>
> --
> Froz...
>
> The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
We have a Casino here in Point Edward.... and Michigan is not exactly
doing that well.... hence the influx of 'working girls'...much more
now than ever before.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "sam" wrote:
>
>> I was clamping some tenons and wiped away the excess glue
>> with a dry rag. I worry a little about how the thin residue
>> of glue might affect the finish. But I also read some time
>> ago not to use a wet rag because it causes problems with
>> raising the grain.
>>
>> What's the definitive choice? To wet or not to wet?
> --------------------------------------
> 1) Use less glue.
>
> 2) Apply glue with a plumber's acid brush with the bristles trimmed back
> to about 1/2".
>
Totally agree and might I add, use or white TB or white Gorilla glue on
lighter woods, TB III on medium colored brown woods, and dark tint glue on
dark woods. I try to never use yellow glue.
On Aug 13, 10:32=A0am, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Aug 13, 9:02=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >http://www.gorillaglue.com/glues/woodglue/index.aspx
>
> Eeeeeeenterestink. (I hadn't heard of such a thing before)
Indeed, you have, for many years. White PVA =3D Elmer's.
"sam" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> I was clamping some tenons and wiped away the excess glue
> with a dry rag. I worry a little about how the thin residue
> of glue might affect the finish. But I also read some time
> ago not to use a wet rag because it causes problems with
> raising the grain.
>
> What's the definitive choice? To wet or not to wet?
>
> Thanks,
>
> s
I let it start to set on a flat surface and use a scraper. If two pieces
are joined 90 degrees, take a plastic soda straw and cut the end off on a
diagonal. Now use the point to scrape away the wet glue. Wipe the straw or
snip shorter as needed.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "sam" wrote:
> >
> >> I was clamping some tenons and wiped away the excess glue
> >> with a dry rag. I worry a little about how the thin residue
> >> of glue might affect the finish. But I also read some time
> >> ago not to use a wet rag because it causes problems with
> >> raising the grain.
> >>
> >> What's the definitive choice? To wet or not to wet?
> > --------------------------------------
> > 1) Use less glue.
> >
> > 2) Apply glue with a plumber's acid brush with the bristles trimmed back
> > to about 1/2".
> >
> > 3) Tape joints with blue painter's tape.
> > Do not use cream colored masking tape.
> >
> > 4) Rinse away excess glie with a water soaked plumber's acid brush, then
> > wipe dry. Repeat as required.
> >
> > Mastering 1 & 2 above eliminates the need for 3 & 4.
> >
> > Lew
> >
> >
>
> And you can usually get the brushes in bundles of 20 or so quite cheaply.
> Good for a bunch of small brush tasks. Used nothing but for gluing for the
> past 20 years or so.
All good info. Thanks everyone.
s
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Leon" wrote:
>>
>>> Totally agree and might I add, use or white TB or white Gorilla glue on
>>> lighter woods, TB III on medium colored brown woods, and dark tint glue
>>> on dark woods. I try to never use yellow glue.
>> -----------------------------------------
>> With the availability of high quality laminating epoxy which BTW, cures
>> clear and bridges gaps adding strength in the process, why would anybody
>> use overpriced, under peckered Gorilla glue?
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
>
> Gorilla is a brand name, not a type of glue. They do make a PVA. I'm sure
> that is what he meant.
What I meant and actually what I said. ;~)
On 8/12/2010 7:11 PM, Morgans wrote:
> "Lew Hodgett"<[email protected]> wrote
>
>> With the availability of high quality laminating epoxy which BTW, cures
>> clear and bridges gaps adding strength in the process, why would anybody
>> use overpriced, under peckered Gorilla glue?
>
> If you do use epoxy, remember that unlike wood glue, it does not like to be
> clamped extreeeemely tight. Starvation will hurt epoxy strength, easily.
You're preaching to the choir ... Lew buys epoxy in 55 gal drums.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:28d13441-b573-4ec3-9e71-db309ddf9031@k10g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
On Aug 13, 9:02 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> http://www.gorillaglue.com/glues/woodglue/index.aspx
Eeeeeeenterestink. (I hadn't heard of such a thing before)
It's been around for a couple of years, dries clear.
On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 19:52:18 -0500, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>sam wrote:
>>
>> I was clamping some tenons and wiped away the excess glue
>> with a dry rag. I worry a little about how the thin residue
>> of glue might affect the finish. But I also read some time
>> ago not to use a wet rag because it causes problems with
>> raising the grain.
>>
>> What's the definitive choice? To wet or not to wet?
>
>The _definitive_ choice is use less glue so eliminate squeeze out... :)
>
>The alternative is to finish or wax surface first so glue doesn't soak
>into wood fibers.
>
>As for cleanup when neither of above applies (my usual scenario by the
>way) I use damp, not wet nor dry...
Wait for the glue to set for an hour and then scrape it off with a
chisel.
D) ALL of the above.
On Aug 12, 12:27=A0am, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > What's the definitive choice? To wet or not to wet?
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > s
>
> 1. I prefer to wait 30-40 minutes until it gets rubbery or harder and
> remove it with a chisel or sharp putty knife. Not scraping, just
> lifting away.
>
> 2. Norm always uses a wet rag. I hate that. If you go with wet, use
> super wet to totally dilute or you just wash it into the grain and
> will have finish problems. Rasing grain is a non-issue. You need to
> sand the darn thing at some point anyway.
>
> 3. For M&T joints, you can back cut the shoulders of the tenon piece
> and you can chamfer the mortise edges to catch the squeeze. Back
> cutting =A0the shoulders is pretty common and allows you to have a sharp
> edge on all mating faces of tenon piece so you can force fit it a bit
> to get a tight joint on all sides.
Helps also to apply glue to the mortise, not the tenon. That
way, the glue gets pushed down into the mortise and away
from the shoulders. For blind tenons, make sure you cut the
mortises a sixteenth or better deep to give the excess glue
someplace to go, else the joint will lock up shy of full fit.
Liquids can't be compressed.
>
> 4. Other types of joints can have a kerf cut or other tricks to catch
> the squeeze.
> What's the definitive choice? To wet or not to wet?
>
> Thanks,
>
> s
1. I prefer to wait 30-40 minutes until it gets rubbery or harder and
remove it with a chisel or sharp putty knife. Not scraping, just
lifting away.
2. Norm always uses a wet rag. I hate that. If you go with wet, use
super wet to totally dilute or you just wash it into the grain and
will have finish problems. Rasing grain is a non-issue. You need to
sand the darn thing at some point anyway.
3. For M&T joints, you can back cut the shoulders of the tenon piece
and you can chamfer the mortise edges to catch the squeeze. Back
cutting the shoulders is pretty common and allows you to have a sharp
edge on all mating faces of tenon piece so you can force fit it a bit
to get a tight joint on all sides.
4. Other types of joints can have a kerf cut or other tricks to catch
the squeeze.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> Totally agree and might I add, use or white TB or white Gorilla glue on
>> lighter woods, TB III on medium colored brown woods, and dark tint glue
>> on dark woods. I try to never use yellow glue.
> -----------------------------------------
> With the availability of high quality laminating epoxy which BTW, cures
> clear and bridges gaps adding strength in the process, why would anybody
> use overpriced, under peckered Gorilla glue?
>
> Lew
>
>
Gorilla is a brand name, not a type of glue. They do make a PVA. I'm sure
that is what he meant.
On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 19:50:42 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Aug 11, 8:52 pm, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>> sam wrote:
>>
>> > I was clamping some tenons and wiped away the excess glue
>> > with a dry rag. I worry a little about how the thin residue
>> > of glue might affect the finish. But I also read some time
>> > ago not to use a wet rag because it causes problems with
>> > raising the grain.
>>
>> > What's the definitive choice? To wet or not to wet?
>>
>> The _definitive_ choice is use less glue so eliminate squeeze out... :)
>>
>> The alternative is to finish or wax surface first so glue doesn't soak
>> into wood fibers.
>
>Or to tape off the joint before assembly.
>
>R
I use the tape method too and it works well. Just remember, if you're
not careful with the tape you'll either end up with glue you will have
to sand or scrape off or you'll end up with some tape caught in the
joint.
Be careful out there.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote
> With the availability of high quality laminating epoxy which BTW, cures
> clear and bridges gaps adding strength in the process, why would anybody
> use overpriced, under peckered Gorilla glue?
If you do use epoxy, remember that unlike wood glue, it does not like to be
clamped extreeeemely tight. Starvation will hurt epoxy strength, easily.
--
Jim in NC
sam wrote:
>
> I was clamping some tenons and wiped away the excess glue
> with a dry rag. I worry a little about how the thin residue
> of glue might affect the finish. But I also read some time
> ago not to use a wet rag because it causes problems with
> raising the grain.
>
> What's the definitive choice? To wet or not to wet?
The _definitive_ choice is use less glue so eliminate squeeze out... :)
The alternative is to finish or wax surface first so glue doesn't soak
into wood fibers.
As for cleanup when neither of above applies (my usual scenario by the
way) I use damp, not wet nor dry...
--
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "sam" wrote:
>
>> I was clamping some tenons and wiped away the excess glue
>> with a dry rag. I worry a little about how the thin residue
>> of glue might affect the finish. But I also read some time
>> ago not to use a wet rag because it causes problems with
>> raising the grain.
>>
>> What's the definitive choice? To wet or not to wet?
> --------------------------------------
> 1) Use less glue.
>
> 2) Apply glue with a plumber's acid brush with the bristles trimmed back
> to about 1/2".
>
> 3) Tape joints with blue painter's tape.
> Do not use cream colored masking tape.
>
> 4) Rinse away excess glie with a water soaked plumber's acid brush, then
> wipe dry. Repeat as required.
>
> Mastering 1 & 2 above eliminates the need for 3 & 4.
>
> Lew
>
>
And you can usually get the brushes in bundles of 20 or so quite cheaply.
Good for a bunch of small brush tasks. Used nothing but for gluing for the
past 20 years or so.
In article <[email protected]>,
sam <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>I was clamping some tenons and wiped away the excess glue
>with a dry rag. I worry a little about how the thin residue
>of glue might affect the finish. But I also read some time
>ago not to use a wet rag because it causes problems with
>raising the grain.
>
>What's the definitive choice? To wet or not to wet?
>
>Thanks,
>
>s
If the glue is in the form of squeeze-out like a blob that is not really
smeared onto the wood surface, wait til it has dried slightly and skinned
over, then scrape it off. If it has smeared onto the wood, in my
experience a WET rag must be used to remove it all. Not just a damp rag,
but a WET rag, though not sopping wet. Otherwise there will be residual
glue that will cause finishing problems. If the grain raises from the
moisture, well, you'll just have to sand.
--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
On Thu, 12 Aug 2010 08:27:05 -0500, Leon wrote:
> Totally agree and might I add, use or white TB or white Gorilla glue on
> lighter woods, TB III on medium colored brown woods, and dark tint glue
> on dark woods. I try to never use yellow glue.
Is this a common practice? The only time I've even seen a glue line is
when the glued pieces weren't jointed properly.
Maybe I'm clamping too tight and staving the joint, but I've never had
any weakness in the joints.
I'm curious about what others think on this issue.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 12 Aug 2010 08:27:05 -0500, Leon wrote:
>
>> Totally agree and might I add, use or white TB or white Gorilla glue on
>> lighter woods, TB III on medium colored brown woods, and dark tint glue
>> on dark woods. I try to never use yellow glue.
>
> Is this a common practice? The only time I've even seen a glue line is
> when the glued pieces weren't jointed properly.
It is for me. While I usually do not have a problem with excess glue I
really do not try to remove or worry about some slight squeeze out in hard
to get are areas. Inside cabinets web frames, bottoms of boxes, inside
through DT joints and box joints, etc. In those cases I use the color that
matches the best.
IMHO there are times that certain glue squeeze out is not worth removing but
going with a color to help hide any that may appear works out well.
>
> Maybe I'm clamping too tight and staving the joint, but I've never had
> any weakness in the joints.
If you have entirely coated the surfaces with glue you can clamp to you
hearts content, there will be no glue starvation. 30 years ago I clamped
our oak dresser top so tightly that the bar clamps left very noticable
impressions on the edges. I trimmed the edges to clean that up. The
dresser looks as good today and has held up exceptionally well.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> Totally agree and might I add, use or white TB or white Gorilla glue on
>> lighter woods, TB III on medium colored brown woods, and dark tint glue
>> on dark woods. I try to never use yellow glue.
> -----------------------------------------
> With the availability of high quality laminating epoxy which BTW, cures
> clear and bridges gaps adding strength in the process, why would anybody
> use overpriced, under peckered Gorilla glue?
>
> Lew
>
>
Notice I said "white" Gorilla glue. That glue is relatively inexpensive and
i have had no issues with it. IIRC about $4~$5 for a 16 oz container.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> http://www.gorillaglue.com/glues/woodglue/index.aspx
>
Marketing.