On 11/20/2014 9:48 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
> "Swingman" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> On 11/19/2014 10:24 PM, Morgans wrote:
>>
>>
>>> "John Grossbohlin" wrote \
>>
>>> Solid PVC could be another option.
>> *************
>>> I am really starting to like that stuff for places you can not get out
>>> of the weather. I have replaced several door frames with it now, and it
>>> works great. I recently make a new window frame out of the stuff, in a
>>> place the window gets splashed whenever we get one of those North
>>> Carolina frog strangler rains where it rains at the rate of 4 or more
>>> inches per hour. No gutter in a valley can contain all of that.
>
>> Almost all paint grade spec'ed shoe molding I use in wet areas these
>> days is pvc; and there are an increasing number of profiles available
>> in pvc for other trim elements.
>
> I've got a project coming up to retrim the interior of my house as part
> of a room by room gut job. I'm going to run my own moldings/casings and
> the trim in the bathroom, kitchen sink, and mudroom areas will be PVC...
> I've got a 3 HP Shaper and a Molding machine and will use both depending
> upon the specific profile. I figure if I run the PVC while set up to do
> the wood (probably poplar) that it will take no special effort but will
> give me a good looking product for longer in the areas that get wet.
>
>
Might even consider using 'wood hardener' that is soaked into the
surface and makes a hard surface. Kinda plastic. Might keep out the
stuff that eats up the wood.
Martin
"Swingman" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>On 11/19/2014 10:24 PM, Morgans wrote:
>
>
>> "John Grossbohlin" wrote \
>
>> Solid PVC could be another option.
> *************
>> I am really starting to like that stuff for places you can not get out
>> of the weather. I have replaced several door frames with it now, and it
>> works great. I recently make a new window frame out of the stuff, in a
>> place the window gets splashed whenever we get one of those North
>> Carolina frog strangler rains where it rains at the rate of 4 or more
>> inches per hour. No gutter in a valley can contain all of that.
>Almost all paint grade spec'ed shoe molding I use in wet areas these days
>is pvc; and there are an increasing number of profiles available in pvc for
>other trim elements.
I've got a project coming up to retrim the interior of my house as part of a
room by room gut job. I'm going to run my own moldings/casings and the trim
in the bathroom, kitchen sink, and mudroom areas will be PVC... I've got a 3
HP Shaper and a Molding machine and will use both depending upon the
specific profile. I figure if I run the PVC while set up to do the wood
(probably poplar) that it will take no special effort but will give me a
good looking product for longer in the areas that get wet.
On 11/18/2014 10:35 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 11/18/2014 11:08 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>> On 11/18/2014 7:44 PM, janice wrote:
>>> I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
>>> boards. What is the best wood to use?
>>>
>> How many feet ? Can you use Cypress or or like ? cost is higher, but
>> the wood lasts longer than pine. Just the cost.
>>
>> Martin
>
> She really needs to find out why it rotted and correct it and be sure
> the new wood is not affected. . There are wood buildings 250 years old
> with protected wood still in good condition This was not properly built
> or maintained if it rotted out in 14 years.
The old buildings were build out of oak and chestnut and other
hardwoods. They were clearing land and any tree was available. Some
last the longest. Oaks are good.
Cypress has oils that keeps some bugs and rot out. Used in the deep
south in place of Redwood of the west. Better than Cedar for most things.
Martin
On 11/19/2014 10:24 PM, Morgans wrote:
>
>
> "John Grossbohlin" wrote \
>
> Solid PVC could be another option.
> *************
> I am really starting to like that stuff for places you can not get out
> of the weather. I have replaced several door frames with it now, and it
> works great. I recently make a new window frame out of the stuff, in a
> place the window gets splashed whenever we get one of those North
> Carolina frog strangler rains where it rains at the rate of 4 or more
> inches per hour. No gutter in a valley can contain all of that.
Almost all paint grade spec'ed shoe molding I use in wet areas these
days is pvc; and there are an increasing number of profiles available in
pvc for other trim elements.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
"Leon" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On 11/18/2014 7:44 PM, janice wrote:
> I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
> boards. What is the best wood to use?
>
>Forget wood, go with fiber cement fascia.
I did that for the weather surface but had it backed up with pine so there
was a continuous nailing surface for the vented fiber cement soffit...
perhaps overkill but I was straightening out the results of 50 years of
settling/sagging so I had nice flat and true surfaces.
Solid PVC could be another option.
"-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>Ooops, hit send to soon. I *have* trimmed out a mud room and garage
>with PCV shoe molding for a guy who had dogs who loved the mud and he
>liked to mop his floors a lot. But that was direct and sustained water
>contact and stock molding. No brainer.
Sounds like my English Setter after a day afield...
On 11/18/2014 11:08 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
> On 11/18/2014 7:44 PM, janice wrote:
>> I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
>> boards. What is the best wood to use?
>>
> How many feet ? Can you use Cypress or or like ? cost is higher, but
> the wood lasts longer than pine. Just the cost.
>
> Martin
She really needs to find out why it rotted and correct it and be sure
the new wood is not affected. . There are wood buildings 250 years old
with protected wood still in good condition This was not properly built
or maintained if it rotted out in 14 years.
"-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>This whole time I thought you were talking about exterior use for this
>PVC shaping experiment. For outside use I thought it would be way too
>much work to get it looking good. For inside use, I'm thinking you'd
>have to be insane to do it.
>Just use wood, prime and paint it and be done with it.
>How freakin wet does your mudroom get!? :-D
Based on the tests I tried it doesn't seem all that bad to work with... this
has been with new knives on the tools.
When the project commences the PVC will be the first material run so that
the knives are still very sharp. From prior experiences sharpness is more
important with softer materials than hard when it comes to getting a good
surface... Since I'm running, installing, and painting all the
moldings/casing/baseboards myself the anticipated bit of extra work for
finishing the PVC for the "wet areas" is a non-issue in my quest to prevent
moisture issues later on.
On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 23:35:15 -0500, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 11/18/2014 11:08 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>> On 11/18/2014 7:44 PM, janice wrote:
>>> I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
>>> boards. What is the best wood to use?
>>>
>> How many feet ? Can you use Cypress or or like ? cost is higher, but
>> the wood lasts longer than pine. Just the cost.
>>
>> Martin
>
>She really needs to find out why it rotted and correct it and be sure
>the new wood is not affected. . There are wood buildings 250 years old
>with protected wood still in good condition This was not properly built
>or maintained if it rotted out in 14 years.
By "manufactured home" are we talking a trailer, a double-wide, a
prefab like a Viceroy, or what??
I know a lot of the "trailer" type "manufactured homes" are JUNK.
There are a lot (well quite a few anyway) of wooden buildings that
have never had any paint or chemical protection that have lasted close
to 100 years.
On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 22:08:54 -0600, Martin Eastburn
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 11/18/2014 7:44 PM, janice wrote:
>> I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
>> boards. What is the best wood to use?
>>
>How many feet ? Can you use Cypress or or like ? cost is higher, but
>the wood lasts longer than pine. Just the cost.
>
>Martin
I was going to say cedar, but painting it can be a bit fussy -
depending on the cedar.
janice wrote:
> I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
> boards. What is the best wood to use?
Regular pine boards will be fine. Just paint them on all sides and edges
before you put them up.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
I would use a p.t. pre-primed trim board.
They sell those, and they are very good and already primed.
They have a treatment that avoid mildew, wrot, and fungus growth.
Coming in a 2x6, 1x6 1x4 etc. 2x4 on and on....It is wise to pre-prime ends
and cuts prior to installation.
john
I use the same treated boards in door jambs Here it is called Aura
Last....
(or something like that)
"janice" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
boards. What is the best wood to use?
--
On 11/18/14, 10:35 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 11/18/2014 11:08 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>> On 11/18/2014 7:44 PM, janice wrote:
>>> I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
>>> boards. What is the best wood to use?
>>>
>> How many feet ? Can you use Cypress or or like ? cost is higher, but
>> the wood lasts longer than pine. Just the cost.
>>
>> Martin
>
> She really needs to find out why it rotted and correct it and be sure
> the new wood is not affected. . There are wood buildings 250 years old
> with protected wood still in good condition This was not properly built
> or maintained if it rotted out in 14 years.
I agree.
Use *any* material but make sure you have a drip edge that extends into
the gutters.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"John Grossbohlin" wrote \
Solid PVC could be another option.
*************
I am really starting to like that stuff for places you can not get out of
the weather. I have replaced several door frames with it now, and it works
great. I recently make a new window frame out of the stuff, in a place the
window gets splashed whenever we get one of those North Carolina frog
strangler rains where it rains at the rate of 4 or more inches per hour. No
gutter in a valley can contain all of that.
-- Jim in NC
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
On 11/20/14, 5:51 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 11/19/2014 10:24 PM, Morgans wrote:
>>
>>
>> "John Grossbohlin" wrote \
>>
>> Solid PVC could be another option.
>> *************
>> I am really starting to like that stuff for places you can not get out
>> of the weather. I have replaced several door frames with it now, and it
>> works great. I recently make a new window frame out of the stuff, in a
>> place the window gets splashed whenever we get one of those North
>> Carolina frog strangler rains where it rains at the rate of 4 or more
>> inches per hour. No gutter in a valley can contain all of that.
>
> Almost all paint grade spec'ed shoe molding I use in wet areas these
> days is pvc; and there are an increasing number of profiles available in
> pvc for other trim elements.
>
I've used a ton of the stuff. It has its pros an cons, mostly pros.
The ends split as bad as wood and the "sawdust" is so clingy from static
that it's a real PITA to clean up.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"John Grossbohlin" wrote
>other trim elements.
I've got a project coming up to retrim the interior of my house as part of a
room by room gut job. I'm going to run my own moldings/casings and the trim
in the bathroom, kitchen sink, and mudroom areas will be PVC... I've got a 3
HP Shaper and a Molding machine and will use both depending upon the
specific profile. I figure if I run the PVC while set up to do the wood
(probably poplar) that it will take no special effort but will give me a
good looking product for longer in the areas that get wet.
*******************
That may not work as well as you would wish.
The PVC looks grainy when milled, planned and you will probably not like the
result.
I found that the parts that touched the extruder have all the grain so to
speak, filled in and is more dense with finer particles. It is smooth, but
not the material being planned.
It may smooth up if and when it could be flame polished.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
"John Grossbohlin" wrote
This is my expectation.... it is all to be painted and I anticipated
sanding, priming and sanding prior to the finish coats of paint...
**********
I would try lightweight spackling compound and sanding sealer for a coat or
two before paint.
-- Jim in NC
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
On 11/21/14, 8:17 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
> On 11/20/2014 9:48 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
>> "Swingman" wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>> On 11/19/2014 10:24 PM, Morgans wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> "John Grossbohlin" wrote \
>>>
>>>> Solid PVC could be another option.
>>> *************
>>>> I am really starting to like that stuff for places you can not get out
>>>> of the weather. I have replaced several door frames with it now,
>>>> and it
>>>> works great. I recently make a new window frame out of the stuff, in a
>>>> place the window gets splashed whenever we get one of those North
>>>> Carolina frog strangler rains where it rains at the rate of 4 or more
>>>> inches per hour. No gutter in a valley can contain all of that.
>>
>>> Almost all paint grade spec'ed shoe molding I use in wet areas these
>>> days is pvc; and there are an increasing number of profiles available
>>> in pvc for other trim elements.
>>
>> I've got a project coming up to retrim the interior of my house as part
>> of a room by room gut job. I'm going to run my own moldings/casings and
>> the trim in the bathroom, kitchen sink, and mudroom areas will be PVC...
>> I've got a 3 HP Shaper and a Molding machine and will use both depending
>> upon the specific profile. I figure if I run the PVC while set up to do
>> the wood (probably poplar) that it will take no special effort but will
>> give me a good looking product for longer in the areas that get wet.
>>
>>
> Might even consider using 'wood hardener' that is soaked into the
> surface and makes a hard surface. Kinda plastic. Might keep out the
> stuff that eats up the wood.
>
> Martin
This whole time I thought you were talking about exterior use for this
PVC shaping experiment. For outside use I thought it would be way too
much work to get it looking good. For inside use, I'm thinking you'd
have to be insane to do it.
Just use wood, prime and paint it and be done with it.
How freakin wet does your mudroom get!? :-D
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/22/14, 11:08 AM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
> "-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
>> This whole time I thought you were talking about exterior use for
>> this PVC shaping experiment. For outside use I thought it would be
>> way too much work to get it looking good. For inside use, I'm
>> thinking you'd have to be insane to do it.
>
>> Just use wood, prime and paint it and be done with it. How freakin
>> wet does your mudroom get!? :-D
>
> Based on the tests I tried it doesn't seem all that bad to work
> with... this has been with new knives on the tools.
>
> When the project commences the PVC will be the first material run so
> that the knives are still very sharp. From prior experiences
> sharpness is more important with softer materials than hard when it
> comes to getting a good surface... Since I'm running, installing, and
> painting all the moldings/casing/baseboards myself the anticipated
> bit of extra work for finishing the PVC for the "wet areas" is a
> non-issue in my quest to prevent moisture issues later on.
The only issues I could see with interior dampness is if you're trimming
out a sauna.
If you have that much dampness to rot out painted wood, you have more
important issues than what wood to use for your trim. :-D
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/22/14, 12:06 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/22/14, 11:08 AM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
>> "-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>>
>>> This whole time I thought you were talking about exterior use
>>> for this PVC shaping experiment. For outside use I thought it
>>> would be way too much work to get it looking good. For inside
>>> use, I'm thinking you'd have to be insane to do it.
>>
>>> Just use wood, prime and paint it and be done with it. How
>>> freakin wet does your mudroom get!? :-D
>>
>> Based on the tests I tried it doesn't seem all that bad to work
>> with... this has been with new knives on the tools.
>>
>> When the project commences the PVC will be the first material run
>> so that the knives are still very sharp. From prior experiences
>> sharpness is more important with softer materials than hard when
>> it comes to getting a good surface... Since I'm running,
>> installing, and painting all the moldings/casing/baseboards myself
>> the anticipated bit of extra work for finishing the PVC for the
>> "wet areas" is a non-issue in my quest to prevent moisture issues
>> later on.
>
>
> The only issues I could see with interior dampness is if you're
> trimming out a sauna. If you have that much dampness to rot out
> painted wood, you have more important issues than what wood to use
> for your trim. :-D
>
Ooops, hit send to soon. I *have* trimmed out a mud room and garage
with PCV shoe molding for a guy who had dogs who loved the mud and he
liked to mop his floors a lot. But that was direct and sustained water
contact and stock molding. No brainer.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Thu, 20 Nov 2014 23:30:45 -0500, "Morgans"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>"John Grossbohlin" wrote
>
>>other trim elements.
>
>I've got a project coming up to retrim the interior of my house as part of a
>room by room gut job. I'm going to run my own moldings/casings and the trim
>in the bathroom, kitchen sink, and mudroom areas will be PVC... I've got a 3
>HP Shaper and a Molding machine and will use both depending upon the
>specific profile. I figure if I run the PVC while set up to do the wood
>(probably poplar) that it will take no special effort but will give me a
>good looking product for longer in the areas that get wet.
>*******************
>That may not work as well as you would wish.
>
>The PVC looks grainy when milled, planned and you will probably not like the
>result.
>
>I found that the parts that touched the extruder have all the grain so to
>speak, filled in and is more dense with finer particles. It is smooth, but
>not the material being planned.
>
>It may smooth up if and when it could be flame polished.
>
>
>---
>This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
>http://www.avast.com
A couple coats of paint and a bit of sanding fills the pores and
makes it as smooth as paint grade lumber.Particularly if you use a
primer/surfaces as the first coat (sandable primer or fast build
primer)
>I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
>boards. What is the best wood to use?
>janice
I have a '95 and 95% of my facia is fine. I have 2-3 spots trying to
start rotting. I plan to either replace or repair in spring depending
on closer evalution and condition then. I am hoping the dark spots I
see are nothing more than surface crud I can clean.
I'm not certain what type of material mine are made of but I suspect
some type of pressed treated material from what I can see. I'll
appreciate the suggestions here myself.
`Casper
wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>On Thu, 20 Nov 2014 23:30:45 -0500, "Morgans"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>>I found that the parts that touched the extruder have all the grain so to
>>speak, filled in and is more dense with finer particles. It is smooth,
>>but
>>not the material being planned.
>
>>It may smooth up if and when it could be flame polished.
>
> A couple coats of paint and a bit of sanding fills the pores and
>makes it as smooth as paint grade lumber.Particularly if you use a
>primer/surfaces as the first coat (sandable primer or fast build
>primer)
This is my expectation.... it is all to be painted and I anticipated
sanding, priming and sanding prior to the finish coats of paint...
On Fri, 21 Nov 2014 20:17:03 -0600, Martin Eastburn
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 11/20/2014 9:48 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
>> "Swingman" wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>> On 11/19/2014 10:24 PM, Morgans wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> "John Grossbohlin" wrote \
>>>
>>>> Solid PVC could be another option.
>>> *************
>>>> I am really starting to like that stuff for places you can not get out
>>>> of the weather. I have replaced several door frames with it now, and it
>>>> works great. I recently make a new window frame out of the stuff, in a
>>>> place the window gets splashed whenever we get one of those North
>>>> Carolina frog strangler rains where it rains at the rate of 4 or more
>>>> inches per hour. No gutter in a valley can contain all of that.
>>
>>> Almost all paint grade spec'ed shoe molding I use in wet areas these
>>> days is pvc; and there are an increasing number of profiles available
>>> in pvc for other trim elements.
>>
>> I've got a project coming up to retrim the interior of my house as part
>> of a room by room gut job. I'm going to run my own moldings/casings and
>> the trim in the bathroom, kitchen sink, and mudroom areas will be PVC...
>> I've got a 3 HP Shaper and a Molding machine and will use both depending
>> upon the specific profile. I figure if I run the PVC while set up to do
>> the wood (probably poplar) that it will take no special effort but will
>> give me a good looking product for longer in the areas that get wet.
>>
>>
>Might even consider using 'wood hardener' that is soaked into the
>surface and makes a hard surface. Kinda plastic. Might keep out the
>stuff that eats up the wood.
>
>Martin
Using wood hardener on the PVC (plastic) millwork is not likely a good
idea. Generally "wood hardener" is used to firm up deteriorating wood
- not as a preventative measure.