- - - - - -
OK - - - I'm 're-sending' so ListServe won't reject this response
"Ron Magen" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:...
> OK,
> I've read most of the messages, and their 'patented bitching' about MinWax
> products.
>
> High cost spray equipment is nice a) if you can afford it . . . and the
> compressor to supply air, and b) if you have the space to use/store it.
> NEITHER of these things answers YOUR problem NOW.
>
> I have had good results using MinWax products . . . I'm not 'dedicated' to
> any one particular brand, by any means. It goes along with the 'KISS'
> principle . . . what works and gives you the results YOU want in the least
> complicated way.
>
> Are you using Oil or Water based Poly? What was your 'prep' schedule? What
> were the conditions Before and After you applied the Poly? Where did you
do
> the application?
>
> A few years ago I built a kitchen storage cabinet for Joanne. While it was
> Pine, I made the top & rear trim from Maple. I used water-based poly
> {MinWax} and it's STILL 'like glass'. She uses the top like a 'side table'
> with a lamp, a couple of cups, and what ever she drops on it to look at /
> sort through during dinner. I haven't touched it since I built it.
>
> Prep -
> Sanded with 80 grit, just 'broke' the edges.
> Vacuumed off the dust, and out of the pores
> Filled the pores with Bartley's 'Natural' colored filler.
> Sanded smooth with 80 grit to remove any filler on the surface
> Vacuumed
> Stained lightly {MinWax Gel Stain} to get close to the tones of the walls,
> cabinets, and table
> 'Deglossed' with a 3-M pad
> Vacuumed
>
> Poly Application -
> IN THE BASEMENT - relatively constant, cool temperature {because this is a
> mostly 'uninhabited' part of the house, I keep the heating/cooling ducts
> closed and taped}
> With a 'decent' foam brush, applied the first coat of the poly. Lightly
> flowed it on, tipped it off, and LEFT
> When dry, the next day, 'scuff sanded' with 220 grit, & applied 2nd coat
of
> poly
> {DITTO . . .
> 3rd coat
> {Ditto . . . . 320 grit
> 4th coat
> {Ditto . . . . 400 grit
> 5th coat
> {Ditto . . . 600 grit
> 6th coat
> When this was dry, the next day, I gave it a good rub down with a FINE 3-M
> pad, followed by a 'rub-out' with some automotive compound, and finally 2
> applications of well rubbed-out, hard, automotive wax. The 'application
> time' was probably 30 minutes per 'step', more in 'getting ready' &
> 'cleaning up' than the actual 'doing'. The rest of the time was simply
> waiting.
>
> Other than the final 'rub-out' steps, this is how I apply varnish to a
> Mahogany transom or trim.
>
> The ambient conditions, or time of day is IMPORTANT. What you think of as
> bubble IN the poly, may actually be bubbles coming THROUGH the poly. In
it's
> simplest explanation, it's 'outgassing' from the wood as the temperature
> increases. One reason for having a constant, cool environment, or doing
the
> application late in the afternoon - as the temperature is dropping from
the
> heat of the day. Also, by filling the pores, you eliminate almost all of
the
> places where the 'gas' comes from.
>
> You may have 'eliminated' all of the dust, but did you? How soon after did
> you start the application? What small 'dust' particles {for instance,
smoke}
> are still in the air? Air conditioning/heating on? Ducts open, etc.
>
> The amount of 'sticky' time is dependent on the material. One of the
reasons
> I like water-based poly is that it dries quickly. When I was re-finishing
> some interior doors, I basically used the same schedule; except I was able
> to apply a coat every 4-6 hours. In the case of the Maple top . . . I
chose
> to wait 24-hours. Varnish, or oil-based poly dries much more slowly, so
> remains 'sensitive' for a longer period.
>
> Long winded, but that's my point. 'Instant Gratification' with an 'Instant
> Finish' . . . spray the hell out of it, and spend your time on the
'learning
> curve' and the clean up. KISS principle . . . you get OUT of it what you
put
> INTO it. Plus, I really think it's quicker !!
>
> MinWax vs 'high-priced spread' ? Can't really say. I'm cheap. I use stuff
> that is from decent companies, with a decent reputations, with Laboratory
> Technicians that can answer SPECIFIC questions. There is at least one
MinWax
> stain that I WON'T use . . . and I can't get a straight answer as to why
the
> color is completely DIFFERENT than either the 'printed' chart or the
ACTUAL
> finished 'samples'.
>
> For what it's worth . . .
>
> Regards & Good Luck,
> Ron Magen
> Backyard Boatshop
>
>
> "DK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > What's going on!?!? I'm using a varnish brush to apply satin poly
> > (Minwax) to maple, and my surfaces are rough to the touch!
> >
> > I've eliminated almost all of the dust in the room, as this has
> > happened before & I thought that dust was the cause. It could even be
> > miniscule air bubbles in the coating, but how do I prevent it!!!?!
> >
> > Help!!!!
> >
> > DK
> >
> > "If you can't beat them, arrange to have them beaten." ---George Carlin
>
>