I'm pleased with the results I am getting from Liberon Finishing Oil.
Works better for me than Waterlox or General Finishes wipe on stuff.
So I've applied sufficient coats to a table top and can see some faint
rag lines. I'd like to do the pumice/rottenstone or the mildly
abrasive automobile compound but am not sure how long I need to wait
until the finish has cured enough to withstand the after finishing.
Any thoughts or suggestions on this?
ROY!
I followed Mac's link, and it is apparently some kind of kissing
cousin of the hybrid finishes they make these days. Enough oil to be
a varnish, but enough plastic to be a poly. You can see that they
recommend this product as a water reisistant finish, so I am thinking
closer to the poly resin matrix.
This would also seem to be apparent when reading their recommendation
of scuffing/smoothing the surface with their 0000 steel wool before
recoating. That's a manufacturer's caveat for poly, then top it off
with a 5 hour MINIMUM for recoat or drying, that almost has to be a
poly blend.
That being said, poly can be rubbed out nicely in the right hands. I
have seen it. But like most finishes, you need to wait a minimum of 2
weeks before buffing it out. To rub out a thin coat of polyurethane,
you need to wait about 30 days or more.
And not to get in your biz ROY!, but you need to have about 6 mil
minimum (that's really a minimum - 9-10 would be better) before going
rottenstone, car polish, etc. Even doing it by hand, you will chew
through a finish in no time if it is thinner than that, and even
worse, thinner than 6 mil (looking for 3 mil final thickness) will not
give you enough material to buff out to make it look pretty.
Here's the other problem; when you rub on your finish and rub off
everthing that doesn't stick, you are probably leaving a cured coat of
about .25 to .3 mil per coat. Why do you think you don't screw up
when you apply multiple coats? There isn't enough finish on in one
coat to make much more than barely detectable film. So... you do the
math. At .25 thickness per build coat, that is about 25 coats to get
you in the bottom of the rub out desired thickness. I don't know how
long it would take to put on enough material to get to the real
desired thickness of 9 mil or so to do a proper cut down and buff.
Here's the last problem. When you apply varnish/poly, if it doesn't
completely adhere from one coat to the next, or it gets some kind of
airborne contaminate between coats, or there is a big temp or humidity
change, etc, etc, you will get witness lines. That's a super thin
(hopefully thin) white line that becomes apparent when buffing.
Poly finishes and varnish finishes are known for this. They don't
make themselves noticeable if you are simply applying another full
coat on top of another and leaving it alone. But if you are buffing
out a piece it is entirely possible to expose a thin edge of one of
your coats, or one that just didn't bond correctly.
That being said, it does look good when it works.
Love to hear about your results if you jump in on this.
Robert
On Fri, 09 Nov 2007 16:37:32 GMT, ROY! <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm pleased with the results I am getting from Liberon Finishing Oil.
>Works better for me than Waterlox or General Finishes wipe on stuff.
>So I've applied sufficient coats to a table top and can see some faint
>rag lines. I'd like to do the pumice/rottenstone or the mildly
>abrasive automobile compound but am not sure how long I need to wait
>until the finish has cured enough to withstand the after finishing.
>Any thoughts or suggestions on this?
>
>ROY!
Damned if I can find out, but most sources say use steel wool between coats, so
it must cure fast..
The manufacturers page has SOME info..
http://tinyurl.com/2f2eow
mac
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