I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
just to be expected?
"Doug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
> cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
> some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
> never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
> next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
> technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
> just to be expected?
======> You might ask Dan Rather who is considered an expert on frequencies!
*G*
Leif
"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leif Thorvaldson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Doug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
>>> cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
>>> some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
>>> never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
>>> next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
>>> technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
>>> just to be expected?
>>
>> ======> You might ask Dan Rather who is considered an expert on
>> frequencies! *G*
>>
>> Leif
> The man asked a legitimate question. Help him out!
Oops! DS made me do it! *G* Actually quite a number of issues can be
involved, either singly or in combination. First this that comes to mind is
are your cabriolet legs curves to small a radius for the 3/8's blade. I
believe the minimum radius for your blade would be 1 inch? Also are your
blade guides upper and lower firmly locked in place by your setscrews/bolts?
What about the back guide? Is that set to the proper spacing? Tension
according to blade mfgr's specs? I had a problem with my 14 inch BS until I
switched out some pulleys and reset the motor for 240 operation. Many
things to drive one mad! *G*
Leif
On Sun, 2 Dec 2007 14:33:16 -0800, "Leif Thorvaldson"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Doug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
>> cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
>> some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
>> never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
>> next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
>> technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
>> just to be expected?
>
>======> You might ask Dan Rather who is considered an expert on frequencies!
>*G*
>
>Leif
>
I don't think so. Isn't that Larry King, the King of Toots?
On Sun, 2 Dec 2007 12:43:57 -0800 (PST), Doug <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
>cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
>some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
>never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
>next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
>technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
>just to be expected?
Your saw is a lot better than mine (ridgid) but I tune mine at blade changes and
it seems fine..
Not familiar with guide bearings, mine has the old type blocks, which I threw
away and out Cool Blocks in..
Are you adjusting the guides for blade side to side clearance or front to back?
If it's side to side, you may be starting with them to tight or not centering
the blade..
If it's front to back, the tracking might be the culprit, or play in the height
adjusting arm?
My saw has thumb screws to lock settings, what does the Griz use?
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Mon, 3 Dec 2007 07:00:13 -0800 (PST), Hoosierpopi <[email protected]>
wrote:
>OK, I'm a "newbie" to my 14" Delta BS (had a SEARS 12" tilting table
>b4) and all this talk of "Tune Up" has me wondering exactly what is
>meant by it?
>
>Are there a series of basic steps one follows ?
>
>Are there specific parts to replace?
>
>From the responses, it appears there may be levels of BS Tune Up
>
>The switch to 240VAC sounds like a "special" on," for instance.
>
>Is this something that would be listed in the Manual? mayb a "Trouble
>Shooting) table of Problems and Solutions?
>
All of the above should be in your manual... on the Ridgid, it's under "setting
up your saw..
>
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Hi Doug,
First, let me say that when this group first started, you got helpful
tips in any answer. But like everything online, has been corrupted by the BS
clowns.
Now in answer to your question. Almost every you use your band, is
probably a good tune up time. Invest in a good blade for each type of cut.
Like 1/8" for short radius, 1/4' for curves and 1/2" for ripsaw etc. These
are for my use. You have to decide for your purposes. I've found that
Timberwolf (low tension)blades serve me well.
You will see a difference with any Quality blade over the discount crap. No
matter which blade you settle on, when you are done for the day, always
remove the tension from the blade. Never leave it set for days under tension
without being run. This will create a permanent bend that will cause
different problems with future uses and not allow adjustments that last. So
this is why I say, you should do a minor tune each time you use it.
"Doug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
> cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
> some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
> never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
> next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
> technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
> just to be expected?
"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> DS wrote:
>> Band saw tuning frequency?
>>
>> I tune mine to B#...
>> :D!
>
> You better C# or you'll Bb
>
I agree - tuning to B# is really the same thing a tuning to C, and although
a sharp band saw is a thing to be desired, band saws just simply are not
C's. They're more generally O's.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
OK, I'm a "newbie" to my 14" Delta BS (had a SEARS 12" tilting table
b4) and all this talk of "Tune Up" has me wondering exactly what is
meant by it?
Are there a series of basic steps one follows ?
Are there specific parts to replace?
From the responses, it appears there may be levels of BS Tune Up
The switch to 240VAC sounds like a "special" on," for instance.
Is this something that would be listed in the Manual? mayb a "Trouble
Shooting) table of Problems and Solutions?
On Dec 2, 6:16 pm, "Joe" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Doug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> >I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
> > cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
> > some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
> > never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
> > next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
> > technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
> > just to be expected?
>
> 4" of white oak is a lot of white oak to get through. Are you using a blade
> that's up to the task? It should *not* be expected that the band saw itself
> is not up to the task
Power is not the problem. The blade is a 3/8, hook 3-4 tpi?? Seems
appropriate for the task
On Sun, 2 Dec 2007 12:43:57 -0800 (PST), Doug <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
>cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
>some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
>never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
>next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
>technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
>just to be expected?
Could be lots of things. A narrow blade (1/8") should help. You can
round off the back part of the blade using a stone or file. This will
help get into tighter curves. A complete tuneup does wonders for a
bandsaw. Perhaps you may be cutting too fast--slowing down makes a
big difference.
Hoosierpopi <[email protected]> writes:
> From the responses, it appears there may be levels of BS Tune Up
There are a series of steps that have to be done every time you change
the blades. This is adjusting the bearings and guides, etc. The
tracking sould be adjusted as well. I first get the tracking done,
then adjust the guides to fit where the blades end up.
Doug <[email protected]> writes:
> I can seemingly
> never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
> next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings.
I like the ceramic push bearings (they go behind the blade, instead of
the sides). I had a metal bearing, but it kept getting dirt in them,
and would stop spinning, and then would start wearing a groove in them.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>On Sun, 2 Dec 2007 12:43:57 -0800 (PST), Doug <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
>>cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
>>some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
>>never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
>>next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
>>technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
>>just to be expected?
>
>
>Could be lots of things. A narrow blade (1/8") should help. You can
>round off the back part of the blade using a stone or file. This will
>help get into tighter curves. A complete tuneup does wonders for a
>bandsaw. Perhaps you may be cutting too fast--slowing down makes a
>big difference.
There shouldn't be any tight curves on a cabriole leg, certainly none tight
enough to need a 1/8" blade. 1/4" or 3/8" should do fine.
I think you may be on the money, though, when you look to cutting speed as a
possible explanation.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
"Leif Thorvaldson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Doug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
>> cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
>> some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
>> never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
>> next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
>> technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
>> just to be expected?
>
> ======> You might ask Dan Rather who is considered an expert on
> frequencies! *G*
>
> Leif
The man asked a legitimate question. Help him out!
"Joe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Doug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
>> cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
>> some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
>> never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
>> next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
>> technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
>> just to be expected?
>
> 4" of white oak is a lot of white oak to get through. Are you using a
> blade that's up to the task? It should *not* be expected that the band
> saw itself is not up to the task
Have you locked the guide bearings in place? Is your blade sharp? Have
you checked to see if your blade is at the proper tension? A quick tune up
never hurts and often finds the problem.
>
>
Doug wrote:
> I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
> cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
> some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
> never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
> next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
> technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
> just to be expected?
By chance are you using Grizzly's blades? I ask as when I first got my
Grizzly G1019 bandsaw I couldn't cut 4" of pine without problems.
Switching to a different manufactures blade made a world of difference.
I recommend Suffolk "Timberwolf", Highland Hardware's "Woodslicer" or
Olsen "All-Pro" blades.
http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/1_2_blades.asp
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=PRODSEARCH&txtSearch=woodslicer&btnSearch=GO&Page=1
http://www.olsonsaw.com/ap.html
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
"Leif Thorvaldson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Doug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
>> cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
>> some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
>> never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
>> next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
>> technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
>> just to be expected?
>
> ======> You might ask Dan Rather who is considered an expert on
> frequencies! *G*
He needs to talk to Kenneth.
On Dec 2, 5:14 pm, Doug <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Dec 2, 6:16 pm, "Joe" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > "Doug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >news:[email protected]...
>
> > >I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
> > > cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
> > > some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
> > > never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
> > > next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
> > > technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
> > > just to be expected?
>
> > 4" of white oak is a lot of white oak to get through. Are you using a blade
> > that's up to the task? It should *not* be expected that the band saw itself
> > is not up to the task
>
> Power is not the problem. The blade is a 3/8, hook 3-4 tpi?? Seems
> appropriate for the task
Hi Doug,
When you say "3-4 TPI" do you mean that it's a variable pitch blade?
Or, are you not sure of the pitch? You want to make sure that the
pitch is coarse enough that you don't clog the gullets before the
teeth get all the way through the wood. Clogged gullets will produce
chatter (blade vibrations) and require more cutting force to maintain
the same feed rate. Does the vibration go away when you reduce the
feed rate? This could be the (a) problem. By the way, variable pitch
blades are great for helping to reduce vibration and chatter.
The blade guides should not become loose and move. Make sure that
they are properly adjusted and tight. The goal is to keep the blade
from flexing (side to side or front to back) during the cut. If they
won't stay tight, get yourself some Loctite or consider upgrading to
better guides.
It sounds like you are hitting a resonant frequency and causing the
blade (and likely the whole frame) to vibrate quite a bit. Changing
the tension will move the resonant frequency of the blade. The higher
the tension, the higher the resonant frequency. This notion that you
should tension the blade to match a particular musical note is
folklore (promulgated by a particularly famous but technically inept
author). The proper tension is going to vary depending on a number of
factors including the mass of the frame, the size of the blade, the
cutting speed, the feed rate, position of the blade guides, etc. It
might be one note for a particular machine/blade/speed/feed rate and a
completely different note for another combination. You don't need
perfect pitch (or an electronic tuner) to adjust your blade tension.
Adjust the tension so that you obtain a straight, square cut with
minimal vibration and chatter (i.e. you'll need to develop some skill
here).
When the blade guide is properly adjusted, moving it up and down will
also change the resonant frequency (just like fingering a different
fret on a guitar). Changing the blade speed will make it much more
difficult to hit a resonant frequency. And, as I mentioned above, the
feed rate can have a great effect on vibration and chatter.
Even knowing all of this may not help you solve the problem. Some
time ago I was re-sawing some 6" thick bubinga. The same saw, with
the same blade, and the same tension sliced through a similar piece of
black limba like a hot knife through butter. But, it was nothing less
than hell on Earth getting through the bubinga. I just had to grit my
teeth, put on the hearing protection, and fight for every inch of
progress. The process was painful but the results were worth it.
Ed Bennett
[email protected]
http://www.ts-aligner.com
Home of the TS-Aligner
"Doug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I can seemingly
>> never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
>> next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
>> technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
>> just to be expected?
If the guides are moving, they are crap and should be replaced with bolts
that stay put.
"Doug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
> cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
> some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
> never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
> next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
> technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
> just to be expected?
4" of white oak is a lot of white oak to get through. Are you using a blade
that's up to the task? It should *not* be expected that the band saw itself
is not up to the task