I picked up the premier issue of Shop Notes to get some ideas for building a
router table/cabinet. In the beginning of the issue they have a test for
checking to see if your saw blade is aligned to the miter slot. I followed
the instructions and it appears the blade and the miter slot on my Delta
Contractor saw are not aligned. The saw tooth just kisses the end of the
guage in the back/rear position and the same saw tooth is missing the end of
the guage in the front position by about 1/64. The Delta contractor saw
manual does not seem to have any instructions for adjusting. Might anyone
out there have knowledge of how to accomplish?
Thanks,
Walt
There is a fixture that you can buy and add to your Contractor's saw
called PALs. I saw one while I was killing time in the Woburn, Mass
Woodcraft store the other day. It permits you to adjust the rear
trunion mount incrementally to align the blade to the miter slot.
http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/productr.asp?pf%5Fid=125284&gift=False&0=product%5Ffamily%2Easp%2Cfamily%5Fid%3D895%26Tree%3D%2CA%2DLine%2DIt%20%26%20PALS%20Alignment%20System&HSLB=False&mscssid=363099B988FA4CB493AA3C3D34AC8DC2
Get it and you'll be able to adjust your saw easily. Without it you'll
have a hard time I suspect.
Phil
WamLm wrote:
> I picked up the premier issue of Shop Notes to get some ideas for building a
> router table/cabinet. In the beginning of the issue they have a test for
> checking to see if your saw blade is aligned to the miter slot. I followed
> the instructions and it appears the blade and the miter slot on my Delta
> Contractor saw are not aligned. The saw tooth just kisses the end of the
> guage in the back/rear position and the same saw tooth is missing the end of
> the guage in the front position by about 1/64. The Delta contractor saw
> manual does not seem to have any instructions for adjusting. Might anyone
> out there have knowledge of how to accomplish?
>
> Thanks,
> Walt
>
>
The reason you check a "single tooth" is to eleiminate
runout from the equation. If it is out 1/64, definitely
adjust it. With some (ok lots) of time, you should be able
to get it under .001"
Dave.
WamLm wrote:
> Bob, thanks again...I found the .pdf manual on the Delta site. It is more
> comprehensive and does provide the specific instuctions for blade alignment.
> Thanks very much..
> ps...they also say all blades have some run out and perhaps a trunion
> adjustment is not needed. I am going to try a couple different blades
> before I dabble with the trunions.
>
> Thanks again,
> Walt
>
> "Bob S." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Walt,
>>
>>If it's anywhere near being a 36-4xx series or has two tie-bars in the
>>undercarriage then I have some info I can email you. There were two posts
>
> I
>
>>made a couple of years back that included some instructions Delta
>
> originally
>
>>omitted from their manual but it is my understanding the procedures are
>>available on their web site now. So check there first and if not, ping me
>>here with a follow-up and I'll send two emails to you.
>>
>>Bob S.
>>
>>
>
>
>
I think the one post with minor exception was a rewrite of what is now
available in pdf format from Delta for doing the tie-bar adjustment using a
flat plate of some sort. The other was about a couple of front bolt
replacement modifications I made -after- breaking a trunnion bolt off. Those
mods sure made it easier for me to do an alignment on a Delta CS.
The biggest problem I think people have with doing the alignment is the
unwillingness to flip that saw over on its top one time, take a good look,
tinker a bit, replace a couple of bolts and then the flip it back. Then
they'll know exactly what is happening when they do an alignment the next
time and understand that a hammer is not needed to do an alignment nor do
they have to spend $20+ on the trunnion alignment thingy's. The cuss factor
goes way down too.....
It's hard to check the condition (flatness) of the trunnion mounts and to
de-burr the mounting flanges etc., when everything is fastened and hanging
from the cast iron top. But when its upside down, gravity makes that a
simple task. Flip it over, take it apart, clean, de-burr, install the bolt
mods ($3), reassemble, do the alignment. First time through, two hours.
Next time you do an alignment - 15 min on a slow day (and no need to flip it
over after the first time).
I'm honored that you think those procedures were that good - especially
since you're the one that rebuilds these things in his sleep and I barely
know the name of some of the parts... I'll clean up my posts, convert to
pdf, download the Delta pdf file and then post them to abpf for those that
may be interested.
Bob S.
"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Somewhere on my toaster I have those e-mails locked down for
> safe keeping but alas they are mixed in with a couple/few
> hunndred other messages of importance making finding them a
> real chore.
>
> My vote is for Bob to re-post them if they are close at
> hand. Hell, a re-post every six months or so wouldn't be
> out of line. They (the articles) are that good.
>
> UA100, who loves a good procedure when he sees one...
Bob...yes it is Model 36-444. I will go check out the Delta site now.
Thanks,
Walt
"Bob S." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Walt,
>
> If it's anywhere near being a 36-4xx series or has two tie-bars in the
> undercarriage then I have some info I can email you. There were two posts
I
> made a couple of years back that included some instructions Delta
originally
> omitted from their manual but it is my understanding the procedures are
> available on their web site now. So check there first and if not, ping me
> here with a follow-up and I'll send two emails to you.
>
> Bob S.
>
>
Thanks Phil,
I will hit the Woodcraft store tomorrow morning.
Walt
"Phil" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> There is a fixture that you can buy and add to your Contractor's saw
> called PALs. I saw one while I was killing time in the Woburn, Mass
> Woodcraft store the other day. It permits you to adjust the rear
> trunion mount incrementally to align the blade to the miter slot.
>
>
http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/productr.asp?pf%5Fid=125284&gift=False&0=product%5Ffamily%2Easp%2Cfamily%5Fid%3D895%26Tree%3D%2CA%2DLine%2DIt%20%26%20PALS%20Alignment%20System&HSLB=False&mscssid=363099B988FA4CB493AA3C3D34AC8DC2
>
> Get it and you'll be able to adjust your saw easily. Without it you'll
> have a hard time I suspect.
>
> Phil
>
> WamLm wrote:
> > I picked up the premier issue of Shop Notes to get some ideas for
building a
> > router table/cabinet. In the beginning of the issue they have a test
for
> > checking to see if your saw blade is aligned to the miter slot. I
followed
> > the instructions and it appears the blade and the miter slot on my Delta
> > Contractor saw are not aligned. The saw tooth just kisses the end of
the
> > guage in the back/rear position and the same saw tooth is missing the
end of
> > the guage in the front position by about 1/64. The Delta contractor saw
> > manual does not seem to have any instructions for adjusting. Might
anyone
> > out there have knowledge of how to accomplish?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Walt
> >
> >
>
Bob S. wrote:
>If it's anywhere near being a 36-4xx series or has two tie-bars in the
>undercarriage then I have some info I can email you. There were two posts I
>made a couple of years back that included some instructions Delta originally
>omitted from their manual but it is my understanding the procedures are
>available on their web site now. So check there first and if not, ping me
>here with a follow-up and I'll send two emails to you.
Somewhere on my toaster I have those e-mails locked down for
safe keeping but alas they are mixed in with a couple/few
hunndred other messages of importance making finding them a
real chore.
My vote is for Bob to re-post them if they are close at
hand. Hell, a re-post every six months or so wouldn't be
out of line. They (the articles) are that good.
UA100, who loves a good procedure when he sees one...