I have a sink base kitchen cabinet going in the basement. I have cut
up some 1/4" thick plywood to put on the sides and toekick. Its
particleboard from the factory. Problem is how to glue it to the
cabinet. Festool rail guided circular saw worked wonders cutting the
plywood.
Option 1: Use yellow woodworking glue. Problem is getting pressure
on the plywood. Sink base sides are 34" x 23". Sink base is 5 feet
wide. So I do not have long enough clamps to use cauls. I've thought
about putting bags of cat litter on top of the plywood to weight it
down. 200 pounds or so. Not sure it will be enough pounds per square
inch of pressure. The plywood is also not perfectly flat. It has
some waves and twists and bows in it.
Option 2. Contact adhesive. I think it will work with plywood as
well as it does with plastic laminate.
On Jan 28, 8:38=A0pm, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Jan 27, 10:18=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Jan 27, 10:39=A0pm, "[email protected]"
>
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > I have a sink base kitchen cabinet going in the basement. =A0I have c=
ut
> > > up some 1/4" thick plywood to put on the sides and toekick. =A0Its
> > > particleboard from the factory. =A0Problem is how to glue it to the
> > > cabinet. =A0Festool rail guided circular saw worked wonders cutting t=
he
> > > plywood.
>
> > > Option 1: =A0Use yellow woodworking glue. =A0Problem is getting press=
ure
> > > on the plywood. =A0Sink base sides are 34" x 23". =A0Sink base is 5 f=
eet
> > > wide. =A0So I do not have long enough clamps to use cauls. =A0I've th=
ought
> > > about putting bags of cat litter on top of the plywood to weight it
> > > down. =A0200 pounds or so. =A0Not sure it will be enough pounds per s=
quare
> > > inch of pressure. =A0The plywood is also not perfectly flat. =A0It ha=
s
> > > some waves and twists and bows in it.
>
> > > Option 2. =A0Contact adhesive. =A0I think it will work with plywood a=
s
> > > well as it does with plastic laminate.
>
> > Contact is a good choice. Get a cheap roller, do both sides, after it
> > is dry to the touch, use some sticks to suspend the panel over the
> > cabinet side, and remove those sticks one at the time. Then use a 6 x
> > 6 inch slab of something as a pressure pad and hit it with a dead-blow
> > all over the surface.
>
> > Oh, and did I detect some drive-by suction, eh, Festool boy?
>
> > :-)- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> I gotta admit it was a pleasure using the Festool saw and 5 foot or so
> rail to cut up the plywood. =A0It was just so accurate and easy to make
> the cuts. =A0Trimming just a 1/16" or so off to make the plywood fit
> better was just so easy. =A0Table saw would have worked too. =A0Still hav=
e
> not used the Festool tools enough to justify the cost but maybe
> someday.
>
> I'll stop by Home Depot on the way home from work tomorrow evening and
> pick up a quart of contact adhesive. =A0I use cardboard to keep the two
> pieces coated with adhesive apart. =A0Then just slide out the cardboard
> an inch or so at a time and push the pieces together to stick the
> adhesive. =A0Works better than a bunch of sticks to keep the parts
> separated.
Just don't tear the cardboard and get some of it stuck in between.
Dowels is what we use in a production shop.
On Thu, 28 Jan 2010 16:45:24 -0700, Father Haskell wrote
(in article
<[email protected]>):
> On Jan 27, 10:39 pm, "[email protected]"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I have a sink base kitchen cabinet going in the basement. I have cut
>> up some 1/4" thick plywood to put on the sides and toekick. Its
>> particleboard from the factory. Problem is how to glue it to the
>> cabinet. Festool rail guided circular saw worked wonders cutting the
>> plywood.
>>
>> Option 1: Use yellow woodworking glue. Problem is getting pressure
>> on the plywood. Sink base sides are 34" x 23". Sink base is 5 feet
>> wide. So I do not have long enough clamps to use cauls. I've thought
>> about putting bags of cat litter on top of the plywood to weight it
>> down. 200 pounds or so. Not sure it will be enough pounds per square
>> inch of pressure. The plywood is also not perfectly flat. It has
>> some waves and twists and bows in it.
>>
>> Option 2. Contact adhesive. I think it will work with plywood as
>> well as it does with plastic laminate.
>
> Conbond, router.
I tried #1 (yellow galoo) and it bonded poorly to the 'pre-finished' particle
board (I figured that would happen...). Anyhoo, contact cement worked
wonderfully putting bead board panels on standard hollow core interior doors
in a room remodel (the 'gel' weldwood brand).
-Bruce
On Jan 28, 9:44=A0am, Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com>
wrote:
> On Wed, 27 Jan 2010 19:39:16 -0800 (PST), the infamous
> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> scrawled the
> following:
>
>
>
>
>
> >I have a sink base kitchen cabinet going in the basement. =A0I have cut
> >up some 1/4" thick plywood to put on the sides and toekick. =A0Its
> >particleboard from the factory. =A0Problem is how to glue it to the
> >cabinet. =A0Festool rail guided circular saw worked wonders cutting the
> >plywood.
>
> >Option 1: =A0Use yellow woodworking glue. =A0Problem is getting pressure
> >on the plywood. =A0Sink base sides are 34" x 23". =A0Sink base is 5 feet
> >wide. =A0So I do not have long enough clamps to use cauls. =A0I've thoug=
ht
> >about putting bags of cat litter on top of the plywood to weight it
> >down. =A0200 pounds or so. =A0Not sure it will be enough pounds per squa=
re
> >inch of pressure. =A0The plywood is also not perfectly flat. =A0It has
> >some waves and twists and bows in it.
>
> >Option 2. =A0Contact adhesive. =A0I think it will work with plywood as
> >well as it does with plastic laminate.
>
> Option 2 is how I'd stick it. It's less fun than construction adhesive
> but it flattens the thin stuff better.
>
> Here's how I'd do that for myself:
>
> 1) Cut the sheet oversize for later triming with a router.
Yup
>
> 2) Prefinish the one side to diminish errant glue spots during the
> next step.
Good idea.
>
> 3) Coat both sides with adhesive, let it sit 5-15 minutes or so,
> depending on the type and mfgr's instructions (I prefer solvent type,
> but it's getting harder to find,)
That's the tricky part. I always go a little dryer rather than tacky.
It should barely leave a finger print, but it should leave one.
>
> 4) Stick it in place, carefully, and set with a 2x4 and a rubber
> mallet, smackin' it all over the place.
>
> 5) Trim with a router and finish cutting the ends with my ryoba or
> azebiki (if it's in place and there are walls nearby.)
>
> 6) File sawn ends smooth.
>
> 7) Go back and smack it with the tubafore and mallet to make sure I
> got it all down flat.
>
> 8) Sand and smooth with 320 grit (150 or 220 for paint).
>
> 9) Install final (or 3 handrubbed) coat(s) of finish.
>
> 10) Now take a picture.
>
> --
> It is in his pleasure that a man really lives; it is from
> his leisure that he constructs the true fabric of self.
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =
=A0 =A0 -- Agnes Repplier
On Jan 27, 10:39=A0pm, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a sink base kitchen cabinet going in the basement. =A0I have cut
> up some 1/4" thick plywood to put on the sides and toekick. =A0Its
> particleboard from the factory. =A0Problem is how to glue it to the
> cabinet. =A0Festool rail guided circular saw worked wonders cutting the
> plywood.
>
> Option 1: =A0Use yellow woodworking glue. =A0Problem is getting pressure
> on the plywood. =A0Sink base sides are 34" x 23". =A0Sink base is 5 feet
> wide. =A0So I do not have long enough clamps to use cauls. =A0I've though=
t
> about putting bags of cat litter on top of the plywood to weight it
> down. =A0200 pounds or so. =A0Not sure it will be enough pounds per squar=
e
> inch of pressure. =A0The plywood is also not perfectly flat. =A0It has
> some waves and twists and bows in it.
>
> Option 2. =A0Contact adhesive. =A0I think it will work with plywood as
> well as it does with plastic laminate.
Contact is a good choice. Get a cheap roller, do both sides, after it
is dry to the touch, use some sticks to suspend the panel over the
cabinet side, and remove those sticks one at the time. Then use a 6 x
6 inch slab of something as a pressure pad and hit it with a dead-blow
all over the surface.
Oh, and did I detect some drive-by suction, eh, Festool boy?
:-)
On Thu, 28 Jan 2010 07:03:46 -0800 (PST), the infamous Robatoy
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>On Jan 28, 9:44 am, Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com>
>wrote:
--snip--
>> 3) Coat both sides with adhesive, let it sit 5-15 minutes or so,
>> depending on the type and mfgr's instructions (I prefer solvent type,
>> but it's getting harder to find,)
>
>That's the tricky part. I always go a little dryer rather than tacky.
>It should barely leave a finger print, but it should leave one.
What's your reason for going drier? Do you feel that it sticks
better, or is it just a bit easier to work with?
--
It is in his pleasure that a man really lives; it is from
his leisure that he constructs the true fabric of self.
-- Agnes Repplier
On Jan 27, 10:18=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Jan 27, 10:39=A0pm, "[email protected]"
>
>
>
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> > I have a sink base kitchen cabinet going in the basement. =A0I have cut
> > up some 1/4" thick plywood to put on the sides and toekick. =A0Its
> > particleboard from the factory. =A0Problem is how to glue it to the
> > cabinet. =A0Festool rail guided circular saw worked wonders cutting the
> > plywood.
>
> > Option 1: =A0Use yellow woodworking glue. =A0Problem is getting pressur=
e
> > on the plywood. =A0Sink base sides are 34" x 23". =A0Sink base is 5 fee=
t
> > wide. =A0So I do not have long enough clamps to use cauls. =A0I've thou=
ght
> > about putting bags of cat litter on top of the plywood to weight it
> > down. =A0200 pounds or so. =A0Not sure it will be enough pounds per squ=
are
> > inch of pressure. =A0The plywood is also not perfectly flat. =A0It has
> > some waves and twists and bows in it.
>
> > Option 2. =A0Contact adhesive. =A0I think it will work with plywood as
> > well as it does with plastic laminate.
>
> Contact is a good choice. Get a cheap roller, do both sides, after it
> is dry to the touch, use some sticks to suspend the panel over the
> cabinet side, and remove those sticks one at the time. Then use a 6 x
> 6 inch slab of something as a pressure pad and hit it with a dead-blow
> all over the surface.
>
> Oh, and did I detect some drive-by suction, eh, Festool boy?
>
> :-)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I gotta admit it was a pleasure using the Festool saw and 5 foot or so
rail to cut up the plywood. It was just so accurate and easy to make
the cuts. Trimming just a 1/16" or so off to make the plywood fit
better was just so easy. Table saw would have worked too. Still have
not used the Festool tools enough to justify the cost but maybe
someday.
I'll stop by Home Depot on the way home from work tomorrow evening and
pick up a quart of contact adhesive. I use cardboard to keep the two
pieces coated with adhesive apart. Then just slide out the cardboard
an inch or so at a time and push the pieces together to stick the
adhesive. Works better than a bunch of sticks to keep the parts
separated.
On Jan 27, 10:39=A0pm, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a sink base kitchen cabinet going in the basement. =A0I have cut
> up some 1/4" thick plywood to put on the sides and toekick. =A0Its
> particleboard from the factory. =A0Problem is how to glue it to the
> cabinet. =A0Festool rail guided circular saw worked wonders cutting the
> plywood.
>
> Option 1: =A0Use yellow woodworking glue. =A0Problem is getting pressure
> on the plywood. =A0Sink base sides are 34" x 23". =A0Sink base is 5 feet
> wide. =A0So I do not have long enough clamps to use cauls. =A0I've though=
t
> about putting bags of cat litter on top of the plywood to weight it
> down. =A0200 pounds or so. =A0Not sure it will be enough pounds per squar=
e
> inch of pressure. =A0The plywood is also not perfectly flat. =A0It has
> some waves and twists and bows in it.
>
> Option 2. =A0Contact adhesive. =A0I think it will work with plywood as
> well as it does with plastic laminate.
Conbond, router.
On 1/27/10 9:39 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> Option 2. Contact adhesive. I think it will work with plywood as
> well as it does with plastic laminate.
1 vote for that.
If you can, cut over-sized and trim with router.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:e080ae4a-49e1-4855-b30f-30b94a6d3ebd@k19g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
>I have a sink base kitchen cabinet going in the basement. I have cut
> up some 1/4" thick plywood to put on the sides and toekick. Its
> particleboard from the factory. Problem is how to glue it to the
> cabinet. Festool rail guided circular saw worked wonders cutting the
> plywood.
>
> Option 1: Use yellow woodworking glue. Problem is getting pressure
> on the plywood. Sink base sides are 34" x 23". Sink base is 5 feet
> wide. So I do not have long enough clamps to use cauls. I've thought
> about putting bags of cat litter on top of the plywood to weight it
> down. 200 pounds or so. Not sure it will be enough pounds per square
> inch of pressure. The plywood is also not perfectly flat. It has
> some waves and twists and bows in it.
>
> Option 2. Contact adhesive. I think it will work with plywood as
> well as it does with plastic laminate.
I have added lots of short but wide 1/4" bead board panels to all of the
walls in our bathroom. Typically they were 30 inches tall. I used
construction adhesive specifically intended for the use of installing
paneling w/o nails. Read the instructions as IIRC you apply the adhesive,
set the panel in place for a few moments and then remove for a predetermined
period of time, and then reapply the panel. Still working in 6 years later.
On Wed, 27 Jan 2010 19:39:16 -0800 (PST), the infamous
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> scrawled the
following:
>I have a sink base kitchen cabinet going in the basement. I have cut
>up some 1/4" thick plywood to put on the sides and toekick. Its
>particleboard from the factory. Problem is how to glue it to the
>cabinet. Festool rail guided circular saw worked wonders cutting the
>plywood.
>
>Option 1: Use yellow woodworking glue. Problem is getting pressure
>on the plywood. Sink base sides are 34" x 23". Sink base is 5 feet
>wide. So I do not have long enough clamps to use cauls. I've thought
>about putting bags of cat litter on top of the plywood to weight it
>down. 200 pounds or so. Not sure it will be enough pounds per square
>inch of pressure. The plywood is also not perfectly flat. It has
>some waves and twists and bows in it.
>
>Option 2. Contact adhesive. I think it will work with plywood as
>well as it does with plastic laminate.
Option 2 is how I'd stick it. It's less fun than construction adhesive
but it flattens the thin stuff better.
Here's how I'd do that for myself:
1) Cut the sheet oversize for later triming with a router.
2) Prefinish the one side to diminish errant glue spots during the
next step.
3) Coat both sides with adhesive, let it sit 5-15 minutes or so,
depending on the type and mfgr's instructions (I prefer solvent type,
but it's getting harder to find,)
4) Stick it in place, carefully, and set with a 2x4 and a rubber
mallet, smackin' it all over the place.
5) Trim with a router and finish cutting the ends with my ryoba or
azebiki (if it's in place and there are walls nearby.)
6) File sawn ends smooth.
7) Go back and smack it with the tubafore and mallet to make sure I
got it all down flat.
8) Sand and smooth with 320 grit (150 or 220 for paint).
9) Install final (or 3 handrubbed) coat(s) of finish.
10) Now take a picture.
--
It is in his pleasure that a man really lives; it is from
his leisure that he constructs the true fabric of self.
-- Agnes Repplier