Kicking and screaming I have been pulled into the 21st century as far as
small shop dust collection is concerned. I finally caved. DANG that new
Laguna BS produces a lot of fine dust. Until now I have let a good fan at
my back blow the dust away from me and out the door.
So, I bought the Jet 1100 CFM canister collector with remote control
and timer . For about 2 hours I was visiting with Swingman today and he has
the same collector and now I have a few questions concerning hooking up the
hoses. Did I think to ask Swingman how his was set up? Did I look at his
while in his shop?
Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo... I did not.
A few questions
1. I do not want permanent hook ups. I bough 2, 10' clear 4" hoses with
the metal coiled reinforcement from Rockler, for 50% off. I bought the
plastic ends to connect to the collector and the equipment. The pieces are
threaded so that they can be attached to the hoses with out hose clamps, or
so I thought. They have opposite threads. This worked like trying to
thread a left handed nut on to a right handed bolt. I forced it on about 2
inches but it easily came off. I called Rockler and they indicated that
they don't actually screw on and I would have force them on and perhaps use
clamps. Why pay extra for threaded ends if you still have to use clamps?
Are there opposite threaded ends available?
2. THE GROUND WIRE. Since my hose is plastic and the ends will be plastic
and there will be no metal to metal contact between the collector and say
the TS or stationary planer, what do I attach the ground wire to? I want
to move from machine to machine by simply slipping the hose off.
3. How does the braided ground wire differ from the coiled wire molded into
the clear hose?
4. Should I wrap the braided ground wire around the hose and tape or
tape along side the hose?
Thanks.
Swingman wrote:
[snipped for brevity]
> I would ground the end(s), next to the dust collector, to the metal DC
> manifold with the wire that is in the flexible hose.
Grounding it at both ends can cause a ground loop which will seriously
muddy low-end information from either vocals or bass guitar.
Speaking of static... there's nothing quite like stepping up to a mic
to add a few harmonies and have a snake-like arc come off your lip into
the microphone, making one forget the lyrics and uttering such wisdoms
as: "is this the Opry?"
.... or so I'm told.
r
"Leon"
>
> ORrrrrrrrr picking up an old automotive points capacitor that a mechanic
> just happened to leave laying on the counter after charging it up reeeeeal
> good. Now I am dating myself.
I like to charge them up with the old Sun Coil Tester and toss them to the
"new guy"! Hey Catch!! LOL - Oh the good ole days!
Dave
"Leon"
>>> 2. THE GROUND WIRE. Since my hose is plastic and the ends will be
>>> plastic and there will be no metal to metal contact between the
>>> collector and say the TS or stationary planer, what do I attach the
>>> ground wire to? I want to move from machine to machine by simply
>>> slipping the hose off.
>>Chris
>> Then ground the hose to some bare metal on the collector. Might have to
>> check with a meter to see where on the collector connects to the
>> electrical ground.
Maybe I'm just lucky but I have only been zapped (lightly) when I use the DC
to pick up a pile of shavings, like after some intensive lathe work.
I don't have any grounding of any kind on any hoses.
Dave
Leon wrote:
> 1. I bought the
> plastic ends to connect to the collector and the equipment. The pieces are
> threaded so that they can be attached to the hoses with out hose clamps, or
> so I thought. They have opposite threads.
> Are there opposite threaded ends available?
Not sure if the plastic pieces are available in opposite threads, but
I've seen left and right handed hose.
You may also want to check that the plastic fittings actually fit over
all your equipment ports. Mine only slides about 1/4" onto the table
saw port.
> 2. THE GROUND WIRE. Since my hose is plastic and the ends will be plastic
> and there will be no metal to metal contact between the collector and say
> the TS or stationary planer, what do I attach the ground wire to? I want
> to move from machine to machine by simply slipping the hose off.
Then ground the hose to some bare metal on the collector. Might have to
check with a meter to see where on the collector connects to the
electrical ground.
Chris
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Grounding it at both ends can cause a ground loop which will seriously
> muddy low-end information from either vocals or bass guitar.
> Speaking of static... there's nothing quite like stepping up to a mic
> to add a few harmonies and have a snake-like arc come off your lip into
> the microphone, making one forget the lyrics and uttering such wisdoms
> as: "is this the Opry?"
>
> .... or so I'm told.
ORrrrrrrrr picking up an old automotive points capacitor that a mechanic
just happened to leave laying on the counter after charging it up reeeeeal
good. Now I am dating myself.
"Leon" wrote in message
> and timer . For about 2 hours I was visiting with Swingman today and he
has
> the same collector and now I have a few questions concerning hooking up
the
> hoses. Did I think to ask Swingman how his was set up? Did I look at his
> while in his shop?
>
> Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo... I did not.
LOL ... Hell, you were too busy answering my questions in my endless quest
for the perfect mortise jig for chair parts. Besides, that coffee is good,
isn't it.
> clamps. Why pay extra for threaded ends if you still have to use clamps?
Had you had time to get a word in edgewise, you would have seen that I just
use clamps ... the double wire kind similar to the ones that came with the
Jet seem to work the best for me. Be careful buying the ones that Rockler
sells, particularly the "water hose" type ... must be chiwanese POS because
they twist and jam up very easily.
> 2. THE GROUND WIRE. Since my hose is plastic and the ends will be
plastic
> and there will be no metal to metal contact between the collector and say
> the TS or stationary planer, what do I attach the ground wire to? I want
> to move from machine to machine by simply slipping the hose off.
I would ground the end(s), next to the dust collector, to the metal DC
manifold with the wire that is in the flexible hose. That said, I haven't
had a problem with static electricity with that particular hose, which I
attribute partly to the high humidity we have here for most of the year.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/6/06
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Hmmm ... I wonder if Leon bought two blast gates?
>
> Leon, get the metal, self cleaning ones ... mucho worth the price.
With most of my shop being on mobile bases, one hose is going to do it all.
I'll add the gates if I decide on a more permanent location for the machines
and use both ports on the manifold.
"BobS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Leon,
>
> The archives are loaded with answers to this and probably most of them are
> about worrying if the dust will explode or otherwise cause a fire. All
> tests that I've read about that were aimed at home type shops, are not
> going to generate sufficient dust to be anywhere near the concentration
> needed for it to ignite and explode. That said, moving air will cause a
> lot of static buildup on the hoses.
Yeah I have heard and read most of them. I have been zapped by my 14' shop
vac hose.
>
> To dissipate that static, at the end which connects to the DC, simply cut
> back some of the hose plastic to expose a couple of inches of the spring
> wire inside the hose. Bend it up to 90° so it forms a pigtail. Clean it
> off (sandpaper, file) so that bare wire is showing. Now take a wire nut
> and a length of 12 or 14 ga wire (green color insulation would be nice)
> and wire nut it on to the pigtail you just bent up. Connect the other end
> to ground.
That is what I was thinking.
> The DC will be grounded thru the power plug and if you wanted to, you
> could connect that pigtail on the hose directly to metal parts on the DC
> but that usually requires drilling a small hole for a ground screw on the
> shroud. Most connector mounts (if yours has the metal Y connector) also
> have a gasket around the inside edge electrically isolating the Y
> connector from the impeller in the shroud. Just make sure you ground the
> hose wire and that will dissipate the static.
Mine has a plastic Y connected to a metal shroud that has a gasket. I'll
wrap the wire around one of the screws that holds the shroud and goes
through the gasket to the motor mounted back side if the shroud.
>
> This has been discussed numerous times and there's people that swear that
> they know shops have blown up because their systems were not properly
> grounded and they know it for fact cause a friend of a friend told them so
> but the never saw it.... I grounded mine to reduce static build-up so I
> don't get surprised and zapped. I have a 16/32 Performax sander and that
> can generate a lot of fine dust but again, not nearly enough to explode.
Thank you Bob.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> 2. THE GROUND WIRE. Since my hose is plastic and the ends will be
> plastic and there will be no metal to metal contact between the collector
> and say the TS or stationary planer, what do I attach the ground wire to?
> I want to move from machine to machine by simply slipping the hose off.
>
> 3. How does the braided ground wire differ from the coiled wire molded
> into the clear hose?
>
> 4. Should I wrap the braided ground wire around the hose and tape or
> tape along side the hose?
>
> Thanks.
Leon,
The archives are loaded with answers to this and probably most of them are
about worrying if the dust will explode or otherwise cause a fire. All
tests that I've read about that were aimed at home type shops, are not going
to generate sufficient dust to be anywhere near the concentration needed for
it to ignite and explode. That said, moving air will cause a lot of static
buildup on the hoses.
To dissipate that static, at the end which connects to the DC, simply cut
back some of the hose plastic to expose a couple of inches of the spring
wire inside the hose. Bend it up to 90° so it forms a pigtail. Clean it off
(sandpaper, file) so that bare wire is showing. Now take a wire nut and a
length of 12 or 14 ga wire (green color insulation would be nice) and wire
nut it on to the pigtail you just bent up. Connect the other end to ground.
The DC will be grounded thru the power plug and if you wanted to, you could
connect that pigtail on the hose directly to metal parts on the DC but that
usually requires drilling a small hole for a ground screw on the shroud.
Most connector mounts (if yours has the metal Y connector) also have a
gasket around the inside edge electrically isolating the Y connector from
the impeller in the shroud. Just make sure you ground the hose wire and
that will dissipate the static.
This has been discussed numerous times and there's people that swear that
they know shops have blown up because their systems were not properly
grounded and they know it for fact cause a friend of a friend told them so
but the never saw it.... I grounded mine to reduce static build-up so I
don't get surprised and zapped. I have a 16/32 Performax sander and that can
generate a lot of fine dust but again, not nearly enough to explode.
Bob S.
"Robatoy" wrote in message
>
> Swingman wrote:
> [snipped for brevity]
> > I would ground the end(s), next to the dust collector, to the metal DC
> > manifold with the wire that is in the flexible hose.
>
> Grounding it at both ends can cause a ground loop which will seriously
> muddy low-end information from either vocals or bass guitar.
Hell, if it hums at the right frequency we'll use it ... if not, we'll fix
it in the mix.
End(s) (plural) "next to the dust collector" in this case meant the ends of
two hose runs where they terminate _at_ the DC ... the Jet has a dual intake
manifold for two hose runs.
Hmmm ... I wonder if Leon bought two blast gates?
Leon, get the metal, self cleaning ones ... mucho worth the price.
> Speaking of static... there's nothing quite like stepping up to a mic
> to add a few harmonies and have a snake-like arc come off your lip into
> the microphone, making one forget the lyrics and uttering such wisdoms
> as: "is this the Opry?"
>
You know when it happens byt the sequence: tap, tap "Is this thing on?" ...
"Shit!"
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/6/06
"jd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> can't speak for the hose ends, but I would at least ground the wire inside
> the hose to the DC - this will allow the static to discahrge through the
> DC. I'm not sure what having a second ground (at the machine) would do.
> I doubt that a home shop could have a dust explosion (I've never seen or
> hear irst hand evidence of it). However, I have (persopnally) gotten a big
> enough static charge on an ungrounded DC hose to literally knock me over
> when I became the ground. No burns, but I was suddenly on the ground and
> saying "what the hell...."
I agree. I was thinking that the hose wire was enough. I did mention to
the sales lady that I was also going to continue use my ShopVac hose which
is all plastic. Then I would have needed to have the extra ground wire. I
have since changed plans.
I once witnessed the wood shavings and dust standing at attention on the
outside of the plastic shop vac hose one day. Looked like iron filings on a
magnet. Being the curious one, I ran my hand down the hose to brush the
saw dust away apparently I was holding onto something grounded. Busssssst.
Damn.
"Chris Friesen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>
> Not sure if the plastic pieces are available in opposite threads, but I've
> seen left and right handed hose.
I suspect the black hose has the correct threads. :~)
> You may also want to check that the plastic fittings actually fit over all
> your equipment ports. Mine only slides about 1/4" onto the table saw
> port.
Both my TS, and BS have tapered ports and the plastic add on hose ends have
flared openings. The fit seemed good.
>
>> 2. THE GROUND WIRE. Since my hose is plastic and the ends will be
>> plastic and there will be no metal to metal contact between the collector
>> and say the TS or stationary planer, what do I attach the ground wire to?
>> I want to move from machine to machine by simply slipping the hose off.
>
> Then ground the hose to some bare metal on the collector. Might have to
> check with a meter to see where on the collector connects to the
> electrical ground.
>
Thanks Chris
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> LOL ... Hell, you were too busy answering my questions in my endless quest
> for the perfect mortise jig for chair parts. Besides, that coffee is good,
> isn't it.
Naw. You were thinking out loud and I was sucking it all up. The coffee
was excellent as was the company.
>
> Had you had time to get a word in edgewise, you would have seen that I
> just
> use clamps ... the double wire kind similar to the ones that came with the
> Jet seem to work the best for me. Be careful buying the ones that Rockler
> sells, particularly the "water hose" type ... must be chiwanese POS
> because
> they twist and jam up very easily.
I am going with, straight on to the collector with the double wire clamp. A
coupling and 2 wire clamps to fasten the 2 hoses together, a jumper wire to
ground both hoses together and a female end secured with a double wire clamp
for the tool end. That female end fits the TS and BS perfectly. I'll
connect a ground wire to the collector end of the hose assembly. Then 2
smaller fittings to attach to the OSS and the router fence.
I am going to have to go to HD for a 5" to 4" reducer to add the planer to
the mix.
>
> I would ground the end(s), next to the dust collector, to the metal DC
> manifold with the wire that is in the flexible hose. That said, I haven't
> had a problem with static electricity with that particular hose, which I
> attribute partly to the high humidity we have here for most of the year.
I'll do that also.
Thank you Sir.
can't speak for the hose ends, but I would at least ground the wire inside
the hose to the DC - this will allow the static to discahrge through the DC.
I'm not sure what having a second ground (at the machine) would do.
I doubt that a home shop could have a dust explosion (I've never seen or
hear irst hand evidence of it). However, I have (persopnally) gotten a big
enough static charge on an ungrounded DC hose to literally knock me over
when I became the ground. No burns, but I was suddenly on the ground and
saying "what the hell...."
-JD
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Kicking and screaming I have been pulled into the 21st century as far as
> small shop dust collection is concerned. I finally caved. DANG that new
> Laguna BS produces a lot of fine dust. Until now I have let a good fan at
> my back blow the dust away from me and out the door.
> So, I bought the Jet 1100 CFM canister collector with remote control
> and timer . For about 2 hours I was visiting with Swingman today and he
> has the same collector and now I have a few questions concerning hooking
> up the hoses. Did I think to ask Swingman how his was set up? Did I look
> at his while in his shop?
>
> Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo... I did not.
>
> A few questions
>
> 1. I do not want permanent hook ups. I bough 2, 10' clear 4" hoses with
> the metal coiled reinforcement from Rockler, for 50% off. I bought the
> plastic ends to connect to the collector and the equipment. The pieces
> are threaded so that they can be attached to the hoses with out hose
> clamps, or so I thought. They have opposite threads. This worked like
> trying to thread a left handed nut on to a right handed bolt. I forced it
> on about 2 inches but it easily came off. I called Rockler and they
> indicated that they don't actually screw on and I would have force them on
> and perhaps use clamps. Why pay extra for threaded ends if you still
> have to use clamps? Are there opposite threaded ends available?
>
> 2. THE GROUND WIRE. Since my hose is plastic and the ends will be
> plastic and there will be no metal to metal contact between the collector
> and say the TS or stationary planer, what do I attach the ground wire to?
> I want to move from machine to machine by simply slipping the hose off.
>
> 3. How does the braided ground wire differ from the coiled wire molded
> into the clear hose?
>
> 4. Should I wrap the braided ground wire around the hose and tape or
> tape along side the hose?
>
> Thanks.
>