Need to replace the fence halves on my PM shaper. Considering using some 1"
thick HDPE plastic instead of MDF or a typical hardwood.
My question is if the plastic will be "stiff" enough so as to not flex in
the unsupported end sections.
Unlike a router table fence that supports the face material along its entire
length. A typical shaper fence only supports about 3/4 of the face length.
Hopefully my question is clear enough to understand.
Thanks
jsawduste
"JPEracing" writes:
> Need to replace the fence halves on my PM shaper. Considering using some
1"
> thick HDPE plastic instead of MDF or a typical hardwood.
<snip>
When you get pricing on 1" HDPE, better be sitting down.
Let me suggest an alternate.
Build a fence from 13 ply (3/4") cabinet ply, then cover with a piece of
1/4" UHMWPE, not HDPE, by attaching with C'Sunk 1/4-20 flat head bolts.
I'd use S/S, but that's all I work with so it is easy for me.
HTH
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
In article <[email protected]>, johnedwards123
@comcast.net says...
> Need to replace the fence halves on my PM shaper. Considering using some 1"
> thick HDPE plastic instead of MDF or a typical hardwood.
> My question is if the plastic will be "stiff" enough so as to not flex in
> the unsupported end sections.
> Unlike a router table fence that supports the face material along its entire
> length. A typical shaper fence only supports about 3/4 of the face length.
> Hopefully my question is clear enough to understand.
> Thanks
> jsawduste
>
>
>
get an Aigner or an Elbe,much safer and last for years
Russell
On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 19:41:51 -0500, "JPEracing"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Need to replace the fence halves on my PM shaper. Considering using some 1"
>thick HDPE plastic instead of MDF or a typical hardwood.
>My question is if the plastic will be "stiff" enough so as to not flex in
>the unsupported end sections.
>Unlike a router table fence that supports the face material along its entire
>length. A typical shaper fence only supports about 3/4 of the face length.
>Hopefully my question is clear enough to understand.
>Thanks
>jsawduste
>
If I'm reading this right, the work will be supported by some
percentage of the fence, including the material on both sides of the
bit. I wouldn't worry about the ends of the fences, except those that
are closest to the bit.
Barry
Nope, unsupported it WILL flex
John
On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 19:41:51 -0500, "JPEracing"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Need to replace the fence halves on my PM shaper. Considering using some 1"
>thick HDPE plastic instead of MDF or a typical hardwood.
>My question is if the plastic will be "stiff" enough so as to not flex in
>the unsupported end sections.
>Unlike a router table fence that supports the face material along its entire
>length. A typical shaper fence only supports about 3/4 of the face length.
>Hopefully my question is clear enough to understand.
>Thanks
>jsawduste
>
JPEracing wrote:
> Need to replace the fence halves on my PM shaper. Considering
> using some 1" thick HDPE plastic instead of MDF or a typical
> hardwood. My question is if the plastic will be "stiff" enough
> so as to not flex in the unsupported end sections. Unlike a
> router table fence that supports the face material along its
> entire length. A typical shaper fence only supports about 3/4
> of the face length. Hopefully my question is clear enough to
> understand. Thanks jsawduste
If it were my shaper, I think I'd use wooden fence sections with
HDPE faces - to provide the stiffness of wood in combination with
the "lubricity" of the HDPE.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA