I have a Lund 16' aluminum boat. It is not an expensive boat, not a teak
and mahogany cruiser.
I am going to redo some of the places on it where I think wood would be very
attractive, the vee at the bow where the trolling motor mounts, the
dashboard, and the long bench seat, which I will make a combination of wood,
and upholstered seats covering some of the wood, but letting some show.
Teak and mahogany are out. I am somewhat limited to what I can get at the
local Borg stores, which brings it down to cedar and redwood.
I plan on routing edges round, doing some decorative routing, staining, and
then some McClosky's or the like. I figure on sanding and sealing yearly,
but if it looks really sharp, it's worth it. It will be parked in the shade
when not in use, but not indoors.
What would you use for a practical marine wood? I'm thinking of using 2x8's
or 2x6's depending on what I need for the finished size, the important thing
being 1 1/2" thick. Which would weather better in a dry hot arid location
of the US? (intersection of Nevada, Utah, and Arizona)
TIA
Steve
On Wed, 29 Sep 2010 21:10:10 -0700, "Steve B"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a Lund 16' aluminum boat. It is not an expensive boat, not a teak
>and mahogany cruiser.
>
>I am going to redo some of the places on it where I think wood would be very
>attractive, the vee at the bow where the trolling motor mounts, the
>dashboard, and the long bench seat, which I will make a combination of wood,
>and upholstered seats covering some of the wood, but letting some show.
>
>Teak and mahogany are out. I am somewhat limited to what I can get at the
>local Borg stores, which brings it down to cedar and redwood.
>
>I plan on routing edges round, doing some decorative routing, staining, and
>then some McClosky's or the like. I figure on sanding and sealing yearly,
>but if it looks really sharp, it's worth it. It will be parked in the shade
>when not in use, but not indoors.
>
>What would you use for a practical marine wood? I'm thinking of using 2x8's
>or 2x6's depending on what I need for the finished size, the important thing
>being 1 1/2" thick. Which would weather better in a dry hot arid location
>of the US? (intersection of Nevada, Utah, and Arizona)
>
>TIA
>
>Steve
>
IPE would be better than redwood or cedar. It is often thought of as
the cheap alternative to teak.
On a boat that small, be VERY aware of where and how much weight you
are adding.
Steve B wrote:
> I have a Lund 16' aluminum boat. It is not an expensive boat, not a
> teak and mahogany cruiser.
>
> I am going to redo some of the places on it where I think wood would
> be very attractive, the vee at the bow where the trolling motor
> mounts, the dashboard, and the long bench seat, which I will make a
> combination of wood, and upholstered seats covering some of the wood,
> but letting some show.
> Teak and mahogany are out. I am somewhat limited to what I can get
> at the local Borg stores, which brings it down to cedar and redwood.
I can see teak being out, price has become ridiculous, but why mahogany? If
just because your local DIY center doesn't have it, you can easily get it
online.
______________
> I plan on routing edges round, doing some decorative routing,
> staining,
Why use a nice wood and then stain it? Additional work too, both initially
and later in maintenance.
_______________
> and then some McClosky's or the like. I figure on sanding
> and sealing yearly, but if it looks really sharp, it's worth it. It
> will be parked in the shade when not in use, but not indoors.
>
> What would you use for a practical marine wood?
Meranti isn't bad. White oak could work too. Plus, of course, the
aforementioned teak and mahogany. Actully, just about any wood will work if
it is cared for.
______________
> I'm thinking of
> using 2x8's or 2x6's depending on what I need for the finished size,
> the important thing being 1 1/2" thick.
You aren't normally going to find hardwoods in nice neat sizes and why in
the world to you need 6/4 for what you are proposing?
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Steve B wrote:
> Teak and mahogany are out. I am somewhat limited to what I can get at the
> local Borg stores, which brings it down to cedar and redwood.
Hi Steve,
I have a book in front of me with the results of some scientific tests
on the durability of timber carried out in Britain. Western red cedar is
classed as "durable" whereas redwood is classed as "non-durable".
Looking quickly at the tables, it would appear that the lifetime of
untreated stakes in the ground is about 5 to 15 years for redwood and 15
to 30 years for cedar. It's unlikely that you'll get the same results
with a different application in a different climate, but my guess is
that the cedar will still be more durable. If you want any more
information from the book, you can reach me at chris AT ruggedmachines
DOT com.
Best wishes,
Chris
J. Clarke wrote:
> Uh, Chris, does it say the _species_ of that "redwood"? It's my
> understanding that in the UK "redwood" is Scandinavian pine, not the
> giant tree that grows on the West Coast of North America.
You're right. I checked the book and the species is Pinus sylvestris,
a.k.a. Scots Pine. My mistake. Sorry about that!
Chris
On Wed, 29 Sep 2010 21:10:10 -0700, "Steve B"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a Lund 16' aluminum boat. It is not an expensive boat, not a teak
>and mahogany cruiser.
>
>I am going to redo some of the places on it where I think wood would be very
>attractive, the vee at the bow where the trolling motor mounts, the
>dashboard, and the long bench seat, which I will make a combination of wood,
>and upholstered seats covering some of the wood, but letting some show.
>
>Teak and mahogany are out. I am somewhat limited to what I can get at the
>local Borg stores, which brings it down to cedar and redwood.
>
>I plan on routing edges round, doing some decorative routing, staining, and
>then some McClosky's or the like. I figure on sanding and sealing yearly,
>but if it looks really sharp, it's worth it. It will be parked in the shade
>when not in use, but not indoors.
>
>What would you use for a practical marine wood? I'm thinking of using 2x8's
>or 2x6's depending on what I need for the finished size, the important thing
>being 1 1/2" thick. Which would weather better in a dry hot arid location
>of the US? (intersection of Nevada, Utah, and Arizona)
>
>TIA
>
>Steve
>
can you get your hands on some cypress?
skeez
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> Steve B wrote:
> > I have a Lund 16' aluminum boat. It is not an expensive boat, not a
> > teak and mahogany cruiser.
> >
> > I am going to redo some of the places on it where I think wood would
> > be very attractive, the vee at the bow where the trolling motor
> > mounts, the dashboard, and the long bench seat, which I will make a
> > combination of wood, and upholstered seats covering some of the wood,
> > but letting some show.
> > Teak and mahogany are out. I am somewhat limited to what I can get
> > at the local Borg stores, which brings it down to cedar and redwood.
>
> I can see teak being out, price has become ridiculous, but why mahogany? If
> just because your local DIY center doesn't have it, you can easily get it
> online.
> ______________
>
> > I plan on routing edges round, doing some decorative routing,
> > staining,
>
> Why use a nice wood and then stain it? Additional work too, both initially
> and later in maintenance.
> _______________
>
> > and then some McClosky's or the like. I figure on sanding
> > and sealing yearly, but if it looks really sharp, it's worth it. It
> > will be parked in the shade when not in use, but not indoors.
> >
> > What would you use for a practical marine wood?
>
> Meranti isn't bad. White oak could work too. Plus, of course, the
> aforementioned teak and mahogany. Actully, just about any wood will work if
> it is cared for.
> ______________
>
> > I'm thinking of
> > using 2x8's or 2x6's depending on what I need for the finished size,
> > the important thing being 1 1/2" thick.
>
> You aren't normally going to find hardwoods in nice neat sizes and why in
> the world to you need 6/4 for what you are proposing?
White oak is traditional, fairly hard, strong, and any hardwood lumber
yard should have it. The Borg won't--they'll have red oak which isn't
(repeat IS NOT) a good substitute.
If it's _gotta_ be something from the borg and they have cedar, that's
the thing to go with--cedar is traditional.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> Steve B wrote:
>
> > Teak and mahogany are out. I am somewhat limited to what I can get at the
> > local Borg stores, which brings it down to cedar and redwood.
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> I have a book in front of me with the results of some scientific tests
> on the durability of timber carried out in Britain. Western red cedar is
> classed as "durable" whereas redwood is classed as "non-durable".
> Looking quickly at the tables, it would appear that the lifetime of
> untreated stakes in the ground is about 5 to 15 years for redwood and 15
> to 30 years for cedar. It's unlikely that you'll get the same results
> with a different application in a different climate, but my guess is
> that the cedar will still be more durable. If you want any more
> information from the book, you can reach me at chris AT ruggedmachines
> DOT com.
Uh, Chris, does it say the _species_ of that "redwood"? It's my
understanding that in the UK "redwood" is Scandinavian pine, not the
giant tree that grows on the West Coast of North America.
Steve B wrote:
> I have a Lund 16' aluminum boat. It is not an expensive boat, not a teak
> and mahogany cruiser.
>
> I am going to redo some of the places on it where I think wood would be very
> attractive, the vee at the bow where the trolling motor mounts, the
> dashboard, and the long bench seat, which I will make a combination of wood,
> and upholstered seats covering some of the wood, but letting some show.
>
> Teak and mahogany are out. I am somewhat limited to what I can get at the
> local Borg stores, which brings it down to cedar and redwood.
>
> I plan on routing edges round, doing some decorative routing, staining, and
> then some McClosky's or the like. I figure on sanding and sealing yearly,
> but if it looks really sharp, it's worth it. It will be parked in the shade
> when not in use, but not indoors.
>
> What would you use for a practical marine wood? I'm thinking of using 2x8's
> or 2x6's depending on what I need for the finished size, the important thing
> being 1 1/2" thick. Which would weather better in a dry hot arid location
> of the US? (intersection of Nevada, Utah, and Arizona)
>
> TIA
>
> Steve
>
>
Bolting wood to Aluminium is a good way to end up with holes in the
aluminium! See 'Poultice Corrosion' on Google or start with this link:
<http://www.qualitymarineservices.net/other_corrosion.html> Anything
that traps moisture against the metal risks rotting it.
Any time you fasten something to aluminium on a boat, you *must* use an
anti-corrosion jointing compound, the best of them being Duralac.
<http://www.intek-uk.com/duralac.htm>
Any decent chandler will stock it.
Also make sure you use stainless or heavily galvanized fastenings
(stainless only for salt water use) and dip each one in Duralac.
Ideally you use insulating washers under bolt or screw heads but even
so, use Duralac!
Beware of wood treated with wood preservatives. Some treated woods +
damp will eat a hole through your boat in a week or two! Anything
copper based is likely to cause trouble.
--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & >32K emails --> NUL:
Steve, I think I would strongly consider one of the man made
materials. They work with wood working tools, routers, etc.
Absolutely rot proof.
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .
"Steve B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a Lund 16' aluminum boat. It is not an expensive boat,
>not a teak and mahogany cruiser.
>
> I am going to redo some of the places on it where I think wood
> would be very attractive, the vee at the bow where the trolling
> motor mounts, the dashboard, and the long bench seat, which I
> will make a combination of wood, and upholstered seats covering
> some of the wood, but letting some show.
>
> Teak and mahogany are out. I am somewhat limited to what I can
> get at the local Borg stores, which brings it down to cedar and
> redwood.
>
> I plan on routing edges round, doing some decorative routing,
> staining, and then some McClosky's or the like. I figure on
> sanding and sealing yearly, but if it looks really sharp, it's
> worth it. It will be parked in the shade when not in use, but
> not indoors.
>
> What would you use for a practical marine wood? I'm thinking of
> using 2x8's or 2x6's depending on what I need for the finished
> size, the important thing being 1 1/2" thick. Which would
> weather better in a dry hot arid location of the US?
> (intersection of Nevada, Utah, and Arizona)
>
> TIA
>
> Steve
>
On Thu, 30 Sep 2010 07:14:36 -0400, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Steve B wrote:
>> I have a Lund 16' aluminum boat. It is not an expensive boat, not a
>> teak and mahogany cruiser.
>>
>> I am going to redo some of the places on it where I think wood would
>> be very attractive, the vee at the bow where the trolling motor
>> mounts, the dashboard, and the long bench seat, which I will make a
>> combination of wood, and upholstered seats covering some of the wood,
>> but letting some show.
>> Teak and mahogany are out. I am somewhat limited to what I can get
>> at the local Borg stores, which brings it down to cedar and redwood.
>
>I can see teak being out, price has become ridiculous, but why mahogany? If
>just because your local DIY center doesn't have it, you can easily get it
>online.
>______________
>
>> I plan on routing edges round, doing some decorative routing,
>> staining,
>
>Why use a nice wood and then stain it? Additional work too, both initially
>and later in maintenance.
>_______________
>
>> and then some McClosky's or the like. I figure on sanding
>> and sealing yearly, but if it looks really sharp, it's worth it. It
>> will be parked in the shade when not in use, but not indoors.
>>
>> What would you use for a practical marine wood?
>
>Meranti isn't bad. White oak could work too. Plus, of course, the
>aforementioned teak and mahogany. Actully, just about any wood will work if
>it is cared for.
Forget white oak on a boat! It turns black in a hurry.