I have a Lund boat, which is just an aluminum boat with interior console and
bench seats, pedestal driver seat, all aluminum, but with marine plywood
tops. I want to replace some of the plywood, and build a little wood tops
and railings and dashboard here and there.
Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs reasonable, and
looks good? Or should I just go with a good marine grade 3/4" plywood, and
gusset everything, stain and seal heavily?
For the bench seats, I will probably be using marine plywood, about 12 to 18
square foot. Instrument board, about 2-3 square feet. Front pedestal and
hatch, about 6-8 square feet.
Steve
>
> Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs reasonable, =
and
> looks good? =A0
For solid lumber traditional is Teak and for good reason. It's the
best.
Mohogany as others mentioned and also white oak (not red oak).
Build any of the structures from marine plywood. Trim with solid wood
of choice. Build rails out of solid wood. Many coats of spar varnish.
Sand off and reapply every other year.
On Tue, 11 Jan 2011 08:44:05 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Larry Jaques" wrote:
>
>> Have you seen any decent looking plantation teak, Lew? Everything
>> I've
>> seen has 1.5" stripes, brown & white. It's like cheap wannabe
>> zebrawood at champagne prices.
>-----------------------------------
>I avoid teak like it was the plague.
Why? Price, unavailability, or something else?
If not teak, what wood?
>Virgin Thai teak is no longer legally available.
Nothing in Thailand is virgin any more. One can buy 4-year olds
there--for any purpose. <shudder>
>Last I heard Costa Rico had some decent plantation teak.
The stuff shown on Proteak.com is mostly that striped crap, half
heartwood.
--
The United States of America is the greatest, the
noblest and, in its original founding principles,
the only moral country in the history of the world.
-- Ayn Rand
> Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs
> reasonable, and
> looks good?
--------------------------------------
That would be plantation teak or Honduras mahogany if you want quality
wood; however, basic problem.
The cost of either will exceed the value of the aluminum boat,
especially teak which is north of $20 per board foot these days.
Lew
.
On 01/10/2011 08:23 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> Teak does not float. It was used on WWII submarine decks to prevent
> giving away the subs location if hit by depth charges. They didn't want
> the wood to float up.
>
> Just some info.
>
>
> Mahogany does.
Check the specific gravity of teak. It runs between .5 and .65,
depending on where it's grown - in other words, it floats.
"Larry Jaques" wrote:
> Have you seen any decent looking plantation teak, Lew? Everything
> I've
> seen has 1.5" stripes, brown & white. It's like cheap wannabe
> zebrawood at champagne prices.
-----------------------------------
I avoid teak like it was the plague.
Virgin Thai teak is no longer legally available.
Last I heard Costa Rico had some decent plantation teak.
Lew
I wrote:
>I avoid teak like it was the plague.
------------------------------------
"Larry Jaques" wrote:
> Why? Price, unavailability, or something else?
> If not teak, what wood?
-------------------------------------
If you have ever had to maintain exterior teak on a boat, you wouldn't
have to ask that question.
Interior of a boat can be most anything, I like white oak.
Exterior of a boat should be your basic Clorox bottle, it's absolutely
no place for wood IMHO.
These days, can't think of a non marine application for high quality
teak.
Lew
Maybe some interest....
http://www.outbackpatio.com/infoteakoutdoorfurniture.html see where it
says teak doesn't float and has to be hauled by elephant because it
can't be floated.
Now other sites say it can be floated based on specific gravity.
I'll let you decide.
On 1/11/2011 12:58 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> I had been told this on a tour of a WWII submarine in Hackensack NJ.
> The tour guide specifically brought up the topic of why teak was used
> on the decks of subs.
>
> I took the info for face value. I do believe it to be true, and
> judging by the amount of silica in some teak feel that it probably
> is.
>
> On 1/11/2011 12:35 AM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
>> On 01/10/2011 08:23 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>>> Teak does not float. It was used on WWII submarine decks to
>>> prevent giving away the subs location if hit by depth charges.
>>> They didn't want the wood to float up.
>>>
>>> Just some info.
>>>
>>>
>>> Mahogany does.
>>
>> Check the specific gravity of teak. It runs between .5 and .65,
>> depending on where it's grown - in other words, it floats.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> I have a Lund boat, which is just an aluminum boat with interior console and
> bench seats, pedestal driver seat, all aluminum, but with marine plywood
> tops. I want to replace some of the plywood, and build a little wood tops
> and railings and dashboard here and there.
>
> Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs reasonable, and
> looks good? Or should I just go with a good marine grade 3/4" plywood, and
> gusset everything, stain and seal heavily?
>
> For the bench seats, I will probably be using marine plywood, about 12 to 18
> square foot. Instrument board, about 2-3 square feet. Front pedestal and
> hatch, about 6-8 square feet.
Fishing boat, normally lives on a trailer in the driveway? Use whatever
you'd use for any other kind of outdoor furniture.
In article <[email protected]>, tiredofspam
says...
>
> Teak does not float.
It doesn't? Since when? Green teak doesn't float, once it's dried it's
no denser than many other common woods.
> It was used on WWII submarine decks to prevent
> giving away the subs location if hit by depth charges. They didn't want
> the wood to float up.
>
> Just some info.
I'd like to see a source for that. Many classes of warship in WWII had
teak decks.
> Mahogany does.
>
> On 1/9/2011 11:15 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> >>
> >> Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs reasonable, and
> >> looks good?
> >
> > For solid lumber traditional is Teak and for good reason. It's the
> > best.
> >
> > Mohogany as others mentioned and also white oak (not red oak).
> >
> > Build any of the structures from marine plywood. Trim with solid wood
> > of choice. Build rails out of solid wood. Many coats of spar varnish.
> > Sand off and reapply every other year.
In article <[email protected]>, tiredofspam
says...
>
> Maybe some interest....
> http://www.outbackpatio.com/infoteakoutdoorfurniture.html see where it
> says teak doesn't float and has to be hauled by elephant because it
> can't be floated.
>
> Now other sites say it can be floated based on specific gravity.
> I'll let you decide.
It is well known that _green_ teak will not float. However by the time
it becomes the deck of a ship it is no longer green.
Some species of oak sink when they're green too.
> On 1/11/2011 12:58 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> > I had been told this on a tour of a WWII submarine in Hackensack NJ.
> > The tour guide specifically brought up the topic of why teak was used
> > on the decks of subs.
> >
> > I took the info for face value. I do believe it to be true, and
> > judging by the amount of silica in some teak feel that it probably
> > is.
> >
> > On 1/11/2011 12:35 AM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
> >> On 01/10/2011 08:23 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> >>> Teak does not float. It was used on WWII submarine decks to
> >>> prevent giving away the subs location if hit by depth charges.
> >>> They didn't want the wood to float up.
> >>>
> >>> Just some info.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Mahogany does.
> >>
> >> Check the specific gravity of teak. It runs between .5 and .65,
> >> depending on where it's grown - in other words, it floats.
In article <[email protected]>,
"Steve B" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a Lund boat, which is just an aluminum boat with interior console and
> bench seats, pedestal driver seat, all aluminum, but with marine plywood
> tops. I want to replace some of the plywood, and build a little wood tops
> and railings and dashboard here and there.
>
> Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs reasonable, and
> looks good?
Teak is usual but does not "cost reasonable." Mahogany used for some
things, costs a bit less, not near as durable. White ash is used on
canoe and guideboat gunwales - I would put a good coat of finish on it.
May be as exotic as teak out your way - or moreso? Ipe (look for deck
boards) might be the ticket?
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
I had been told this on a tour of a WWII submarine in Hackensack NJ. The
tour guide specifically brought up the topic of why teak was used on the
decks of subs.
I took the info for face value. I do believe it to be true, and judging
by the amount of silica in some teak feel that it probably is.
On 1/11/2011 12:35 AM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
> On 01/10/2011 08:23 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>> Teak does not float. It was used on WWII submarine decks to prevent
>> giving away the subs location if hit by depth charges. They didn't want
>> the wood to float up.
>>
>> Just some info.
>>
>>
>> Mahogany does.
>
> Check the specific gravity of teak. It runs between .5 and .65,
> depending on where it's grown - in other words, it floats.
IPE or other tropical hardwood. I have a piece of tigerwood on my deck for
the last year and a half and it doesn't show any aging. The hardwood
flooring finish has UV worn off with the snow and rain but the wood is not
wetter or softer. It's absorbancy rate is next to zero.
"Steve B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I have a Lund boat, which is just an aluminum boat with interior console and
bench seats, pedestal driver seat, all aluminum, but with marine plywood
tops. I want to replace some of the plywood, and build a little wood tops
and railings and dashboard here and there.
Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs reasonable, and
looks good? Or should I just go with a good marine grade 3/4" plywood, and
gusset everything, stain and seal heavily?
For the bench seats, I will probably be using marine plywood, about 12 to 18
square foot. Instrument board, about 2-3 square feet. Front pedestal and
hatch, about 6-8 square feet.
Steve
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> I have a Lund boat, which is just an aluminum boat with interior console
> and bench seats, pedestal driver seat, all aluminum, but with marine
> plywood tops. I want to replace some of the plywood, and build a little
> wood tops and railings and dashboard here and there.
>
> Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs reasonable,
> and looks good? Or should I just go with a good marine grade 3/4"
> plywood, and gusset everything, stain and seal heavily?
>
> For the bench seats, I will probably be using marine plywood, about 12
> to 18 square foot. Instrument board, about 2-3 square feet. Front
> pedestal and hatch, about 6-8 square feet.
Talk to Boulter Plywood. They specialize in marine lumber & plywood:
http://www.boulterplywood.com/
Doug White
On Mon, 10 Jan 2011 19:58:51 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>> Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs
>> reasonable, and
>> looks good?
>--------------------------------------
>That would be plantation teak or Honduras mahogany if you want quality
>wood; however, basic problem.
>
>The cost of either will exceed the value of the aluminum boat,
>especially teak which is north of $20 per board foot these days.
Have you seen any decent looking plantation teak, Lew? Everything I've
seen has 1.5" stripes, brown & white. It's like cheap wannabe
zebrawood at champagne prices.
--
The United States of America is the greatest, the
noblest and, in its original founding principles,
the only moral country in the history of the world.
-- Ayn Rand
Seriously consider one of the man mades like Azek.
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .
"Steve B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a Lund boat, which is just an aluminum boat with interior
>console and bench seats, pedestal driver seat, all aluminum, but
>with marine plywood tops. I want to replace some of the plywood,
>and build a little wood tops and railings and dashboard here and
>there.
>
> Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs
> reasonable, and looks good? Or should I just go with a good
> marine grade 3/4" plywood, and gusset everything, stain and seal
> heavily?
>
> For the bench seats, I will probably be using marine plywood,
> about 12 to 18 square foot. Instrument board, about 2-3 square
> feet. Front pedestal and hatch, about 6-8 square feet.
>
> Steve
>
Teak does not float. It was used on WWII submarine decks to prevent
giving away the subs location if hit by depth charges. They didn't want
the wood to float up.
Just some info.
Mahogany does.
On 1/9/2011 11:15 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>>
>> Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs reasonable, and
>> looks good?
>
> For solid lumber traditional is Teak and for good reason. It's the
> best.
>
> Mohogany as others mentioned and also white oak (not red oak).
>
> Build any of the structures from marine plywood. Trim with solid wood
> of choice. Build rails out of solid wood. Many coats of spar varnish.
> Sand off and reapply every other year.